Valldalsleden // day 11 // Skjørstadhovden

Valldalsleden, day 11.
Distance: 3.4km (313.9km).

There was time before my train home departed, so I took the gondola up to Skjørstadhovden. Not exactly a part of the pilgrim path to Trondheim, but as it was a part of my journey it should also be a part of my tale from it.

Skjørstadhovden also provides a great view over the landscape the pilgrim path passes through after it comes down from the mountains.

I found a nice place a little bit down from the summit at 1125m, where I could sit down and read. Below I could see Oppdal church and try to make my way backwards on Gudbrandsdalsleden.

In the gondola up towards Skjørstadhovden.

Looking down towards Oppdal.

View from Skjørstadhovden, looking over the valley that I went through yesterday.

It was tempting to start climbing higher up, but I was sensible and did not succumb to it. I felt invigorated enough being this close to the mountains above before a long train ride home.

Before taking the gondola down again, I had lunch at the restaurant.

On a short walk down to the small unnamed lake on the backside of Skjørstadhovden.

Blåøret in the background to the left, Kinnpiken in the background to the right.

After 11 days (including this) and 314km on Valldalsleden, the journey goes back home again.

<< Oppdal // day 10

Valldalsleden // day 10 // Ryphusan - Oppdal

Valldalsleden, day 10.
Distance: 29.3km (310.5km).

From Ryphusan I walked to Oppdal, the end of the line for my part on this walk. As I had walked the whole Gudbrandsdalsleden last year, I did not find it necessary to go all the way to Trondheim this time.

Vinstradalen was the highlight of the walk. This time I could see the surrounding mountains, as the weather was far better than my previous outing. Still clouds and with a forecast of rain, but how different a walk feels when you can see the features of the landscape around you.

I stopped to admire the views from the chapel of St. Michael, with Oppdal visible through its blue cross in the window.

Curious sheep in Vinstradalen.

The pilgrim path going on a constructed way through Tronget.

Holsætra.

Crossing over the Vinstra river at Moabrua.

This I could not see last year, view of Oppdal in the distance.

Thunder and lightning both heard and seen above Oppdal as I came out of the Vinstradalen valley, but at that time I was down from the mountains.

St. Michael Chapel.

The cozy Plasstoggo cabin is no longer situated next to the pilgrim path, as it has been changed to take another route. I still located the small hut for lunch.

I walked through Vangfeltet, the largest burial ground in Norway, instead of following the pilgrim path that goes outside of it. It was a beautiful and peaceful walk through illuminated trees from the sun briefly shining through the clouds.

Thunder and rain struck me heavily on the approach to the centre of Oppdal, soaking me instantly. I was quite happy to escape the deluge when I got to Oppdal Gjestetun Hotell, and even happier when I found out that they had closets with heating in.

Thunder and rain passing over Oppdal.

Crossing over a field on the way to Oppdal.

Vangfeltet, the largest burial grounds in Norway.

Oppdal in the evening rain.

In the afternoon and evening, I got out to eat pizza and have some beers at Møllen. Then ending my walk on Valldalsleden in my room listening to more heavy rain outside.

<< Ryphusan // day 9Skjærstadhovden // day 11 >>

Valldalsleden // day 9 // Kongsvoll - Ryphusan

Valldalsleden, day 9.
Distance: 27.9km (281.2km).

Ryphusan is the only place to find accommodation over the mountains after Kongsvoll, the next possible places will be the campsites when coming down from the mountains. Hence it was a problem for the pilgrims during the pandemic, when Ryphusan was closed. It was solved by providing taxi rides to the campsites for those not feeling up to walking all the way.

The walk from Kongsvoll to the old mountain farm barn at Ryphusan was another walk under the threat of rain, but none materialized during the time.

As I have walked the Vårstigen section before, and had lots of time at hand today, I decided to see a bit more of the old way over the mountain. From where the pilgrim path leaves it to climb up into higher grounds, I followed Vårstigen further down on its original route.

On the climb up Vårstigen after Kongsvoll.

Passing by remains of old farms on the descent towards Nestasvollan (not on the pilgrim path).

View over Drivdalen from Vårstigen on the part not on the pilgrim path.

At Vårstigsætra farm in the mountains.

Haugtjønnin lakes.

Having walked down to Nestasvollen meant I had to climb all the way back up again the same way, but the walk was beautiful passing by remnants of old mountains farms and getting views of the Drivdalen valley.

Rain was imminent in all horizons when I crossed over the mountain plateau after Vårstigsætra, but I remained unscathed by it. It still felt like the most remote section of the pilgrim path to Nidaros.

I climbed up to the summit of Vesle Elgsjøtangen at 1450m. Lovely and dramatic views awaited me at the summit, while the wind constantly pummelled me.

The way over the mountains.

At the summit of Vesle Elgsjøtangen.

Light through the clouds.

Vinstradalen valley, approaching Ryphusan.

The two pilgrims that I shared the table with yesterday was already present when I arrived at Ryphusan. However, they were tired and went early to bed.

Ryphusan in the evening.

Quiet was the mountains as it turned into evening and night. Sky became purplish. It is an atmospheric place to spend the night at for a pilgrim.

<< Kongsvoll // day 8Oppdal // day 10 >>

Valldalsleden // day 8 // Gautåsætrin - Kongsvoll

Valldalsleden, day 8.
Distance: 28.4km (253.3km).

With my primary goals achieved, having walked both Valldalsleden and Gautstigen, I set my sight on following the pilgrim path over Dovre as the last part of my walk.

From Gautstigen to Eysteinkyrkja church I was back on memory grounds. Where the only difference was the colour of the landscape, as I walked in the fall the last time.

I saw the same rising hills and mountains, the same signposts and information boards, the same indented path on the ground, but the vegetation around me was more verdant. The same journey, but different still.

With enough time to spare, I decided to walk up to the Snøhetta Viewpoint, which offers a great view of the Snøhetta massif. At the same time it was a reminder of everyday life as I had to take my place in a queue. It is modernistic and quite touristic. A herd of musk ox attracted the attention of a family at the binoculars.

Path going through heather and scarce vegetation from Hageseter towards Hjerkinn.

Old boardwalks over the bogs on the approach to Hjerkinn.

Inside the Eysteinkyrkja church.

The Snøhetta Viewpoint.

Snøhetta seen from Tverrfjellet.

Rain hammered down on me on my return, which gave me an excuse for having a cold beer at the motel.

Hjerkinnshøe is the same iconic passing on the Gudbrandsdalsleden. This time I walked up to the eastern summit. In the distance, the views was of showers of rain, another passage here underneath a dramatic sky.

At Kongsvoll I had booked a bed at the pilgrim hostel, but as it was full, I got an ornamented room in one of the old buildings instead. A luxury pilgrim by the look of it.

View back from the walk up Hjerkinnshøe.

View from the eastern summit of Hjerkinnshøe in the direction of Kongsvoll.

Snøhetta seen from the descent from Hjerkinnshøe.

Dramatic skies on the last section of the walk, view back towards Hjerkinnshøe.

Looking down at Kongsvold Fjellstue.

Dinner was shared with two other pilgrims, doing the Gudbrandsdalsleden in stages, they would as me only walk to Oppdal. With history in the walls and its ghosts not seen, the day comes to an end. And then at last, a time where a pilgrim can sit down and rest.

<< Gautåsætrin // day 7Ryphusan // day 9 >>

Valldalsleden // day 7 // Fremste Veslfjellet - Gautåsætrin

Valldalsleden, Gautstigen, day 7.
Distance: 31.8km (224.9km).

From my campsite below the small outcrops of Fremste Veslfjellet, Gautstigen will continue its traverse through the open mountain scenery. It will then join the traditional route from Hjerkinn into the Dovre and Rondane mountains, maintained by the Norwegian Trekking Association (Den Norske Turistforeningen, DNT).

Underway, the path will pass by the peaks of Halvfarhøe, whose name it got by being encountered halfway on the walk over the mountains, and Avsjøhøe. Once on the route coming from the Grimsdalshytta, waymarks will be more abundant again.

My aim today is to walk to Hageseter at Gautåsætrin today, who provides accommodation and a camp for camper vans.

On Gautstigen, with Storhøe now behind.

Another green G Gautstigen waymark.

View of Rondane from below Halvfarhøe.

Halvfarhøe summit.

At the summit of Halvfarhøe.

The surrounding mountain landscape of Halvfarhøe with Snøhetta massif in the background.

Stone next to the path with a Gautstigen waymark.

Walking on Gautstigen through Gautdalen valley.

Barren mountains of Dovre.

Where the path climbs down and crosses over Gautåe river before heading back up again.

And I easily find the Gautstigen path going further, with faint markings on an indistinct rock for aid.

It is a walk where the hardest part of navigation is when the path leads down into ravines created by flowing rivers burrowing down into the soil.

Where I have to look over on the other side of the ravine before I go down into it, in order to find where I should climb up to locate the trail again. As once down in the ravine, both path and waymarks are difficult to spot.

And silently the curved peaks watch my process, seeing me spot faint remains of waymarks on the raised stones next to the path. Sometimes these erected stones are the only marks found to lead the way.

It is a walk where I can spot the summits of Rondane appear just above the horizon, giving me reminders of my through hike of the Saga trail last year. Standing tall like distant natural pyramids.

Halvfarhøe is the prominent halfway on Gautstigen. Where I leave my backpack close by a tall and narrow cairn, to spot the world from its rocky summits.

A climb that has no paths or waymarks but is easily found. Where once on the summit at 1687m, a wonderful view of 360 degrees is opening up. And I find myself lured away to reach the other two secondary peaks of Halvfarhøe.

And I continue walking. Always keeping an eye ahead, to spot what once might have been a waymark. Even the tiniest of green residue on a stone sparks a feeling of success.

Gautåe has to be crossed without shoes and socks on my feet. A cold sensation before sitting down to prepare food and coffee for my lunch break while listening to the quiet sounds of nature.

Mordors backyard? A tiny version of it a least. At Avsjøhøe, where the stones and rocks protrudes from the ground like spikes.

Snøhetta from Avsjøhøe.

At Avsjøhøe.

Rondane from Avsjøhøe.

Looking down towards Hageseter and Hjerkinn.

It is a walk where my curiosity again leads me away from the path. Not really knowing why I felt the need to climb up to the summit of Avsjøhøe at 1635m. It just sparked my curiosity, seeing its steep sides above me.

And the summit of Avsjøhøe feels like the backyard of Mordor, if such a place could be found. Where the protruding pointed rocks are littering the rocky summit like menacing spires or towers. How did they become positioned like this?

Where my curiosity does not end at Avsjøhøe but has to extend to the summit plateau of Falketind (1684m) as well. There the views let me see towards Hjerkinn and the pilgrim path hidden in the scenery.

And I pass by the sharp stony spikes protruding in every direction on the way down again. Where back on Gautstigen again, the path undulates over a ridge before I find myself on the familiar track leading down towards Hageseter.

It is a day where I spent time on my curiosity, climbing Halvfarhøe and Avsjøhøe, and arrive at Hageseter just in time to get dinner. Having to eat while still wearing the clothes I have been walking in.

Talking to the hosts, learning that it was registered about 300 lightning strikes during the thunderstorm yesterday. With one of them hitting the satellite dish at Hageseter, causing quite the shock to some of the guests.

Where I also learn that it is the hosts who own the cabin that I had my coffee break at yesterday. We talk about making Gautstigen an alternative route of the Gudbrandsdalsleden path to Trondheim. Problem is that the governance of the area does not want too many people into the area due to the reindeer herds.

I also learn that pilgrims are sloppy in terms of closing gates, leading to livestock getting loose and roaming the villages around. They are also making use of private property when sitting down for lunch. This is behavior that makes landowners who have agreed to let the pilgrim path go through their properties irritated.

Tomorrow I will again go to Kongsvoll, another place with a history in terms of the pilgrimage to Nidaros.

Snøhetta massif.

View towards Hjerkinnhøe.

Back on tracks again, now sharing the trail with the path coming from the Grimsdalshytta cabin.

Vegetation again, before the final descent to Hageseter.

A nice evening at Hageseter concludes my walk of the Gautstigen trail from Budsjord. My experience of Gautstigen is that it is a lovely hike, especially if you like walking through a more open mountain landscape with rolling peaks around you.

Although the waymarks are no longer maintained, there are still some of them that remains, in both good and bad conditions. Mostly in bad condition. The path is mostly visible, but it is not always clear. Biggest problem is when crossing ravines with rivers running through, seeing where the trail leaves the ravine is not always apparent when down in them.

In bad weather with very low visibility, finding the trail could be difficult.

Pilgrim bedsheets at Hageseter.

I really had a great time hiking the Gautstigen path. It was exciting to do this hike on a route that once was the main pilgrim path over the mountains but is now almost lost.

<< Fremste Veslfjellet // day 6Kongsvoll // day 8 >>