Monday, July 12, 2021

De Kvite Kyrkjene // day 1 // Krosshøl - Bråtådokktjønn

De Kvite Kyrkjene pilgrim path, day 1.
Distance: 22.2km (27.3km).


From Tinnoset the proposed way to get to Sandviken, from where the pilgrimage continues on foot, is to take a boat. Although the prospect of a boat ride is nice, pilgrimages to me is still about walking.

Holkåe, passed by on the way down towards Rauadammen.

Which means I need to find another way to get to the bay. My first plan was to try to locate a path in the hills above Tinnoset, which could connect with another path that would get me there. The problem is that those two paths are not connected, and I had to hike through a rather cumbersome terrain by the look of the map.

Rauadammen.

Instead, my parents will drive me to Krosshøl, from where I can walk down to a parking lot near Rauadammen. From there I can find an alternative route to Sandviken, which also has been waymarked with the pilgrimage sign (a white church).

Rauatunnelen.

The beginning of the Rauafossen waterfall, with the channel directing the timber into the Raua tunnel.

This alternate route is actually a pretty nice and interesting one. Rauadammen was originally a wooden dam that was replaced by a stone dam in 1883. The 100-meter-long dam lies at the outcome of the Reisjå lake, which was used to transport timber all the way down to Tinnsjøen. It is estimated that in the 1900s about 36 000 timber logs was floated down Rauavassdraget each year.

Path down towards Tinnsjøen from Rauadammen.

Most interesting is the dark and huge maw of Rauatunnelen. The Rauavassdraget watercourse ends up in the violent Rauafossen. So in order to take the timber safely past the waterfall, a 60 meter long tunnel was built. Going down to the tunnel I can follow the channel leading the timber into open maw, with water gushing rapidly down and into it. You do not want to fall down into that gaping black hole.

Almost natural steps on the path.

I had a late start, so the sun was lower on the sky while I walked down towards Tinnsjøen, illuminating the path with a warm light. The path is meandering down through lush forest between moss-covered stones. Occasionally the roar from the gushing river in the gorge below can be heard.

Tinnsjøen, looking over at Sandviken from the outcome at Rautangen.

I arrive at Sandviken at around six o’clock in the afternoon, with the last part of the walk going next to Tinnsjøen lake, albeit with most of the view of the water through trees. The terrain on this stretch was more cumbersome, with the path taking its turns up and down protruding rocks. It was still a very nice walk in a fine light.

Path next to Tinnsjøen towards Sandviken.

At this hour Sandviken might for many be a perfect place to stop for the day and make camp, here I find a large picnic table formed like an arrow with benches, a campfire pan and stack of firewood. Further up in the woods there is an outdoor loo. All with a stony beach and a lake to behold.

Sandviken, picnic benches and campfire pan.

The next church, and hence in a way the endpoint of this stage, is Hovin church, which is a walk of about ten kilometres from Sandviken. Sandviken was once a small farm close to being a hamlet, in 1900 there was 11 people living here. Somewhere between 1920 and 1930 it was abandoned. As I walked past the worn and dilapidated buildings, I could see that there are some maintenances being done. The only access way to the farm, with the exception of boats, is an uneven, rocky and steep carriage path that the pilgrim path also follows.

Derelict buildings at Sandviken.

Steep carriage path from Sandviken.

After having followed the carriage path through a nature reserve, past the quiet small lakes of Nordre and Søndre Bratterudtjønne, the route changes to a more even gravel road. This road eventually becomes the part of the pilgrimage that is going closest to the lake. The walk is pleasant, passing by farms, overlooking the lake and the mountains behind, but at the end I grow a little bit tired of it.

Søndre Bratterudtjønne.

Quiet is the word at Hovin church. The timber church standing here today was consecrated in 1850, but there has been an older one here before, possible dating back to before 1730. It has gotten late, with the clock already having passed eight, and I am wondering about where I will sleep tonight. Not on the church grounds obviously.

A hare on the path.

After having a break at the church, I continue on the pilgrimage path past some farms above the church on what appear to be another old carriage track. Passing by the last farm, I head up into the woods and hills at the same time as the sun is about to set. The path has from the church alternated between paths and gravel tracks.

Walking past farms next to Tinnsjøen.

There is a serene feeling descending upon me when I go up into the woods. Kind of the feeling you get when it is getting late, you are tired, and you know you are getting closer to your destination. While at the same time the walking is pleasant and you feel that you can walk on. The colours of the sky is warm from the setting sun. Getting higher up, the trees are opening up and I could see the evening sun just above the mountains in the west. I look around for places to camp.

Hovin church.

Instead, I push on, having somewhat made up my mind to reach the small lake of Bråtådokktjønn at Ramnskardåsen as a place to pitch my tent for the night. The top of Ramnskardåsen is defined by larger spaces between the trees, a lot of pine trees, with moss, heather and rocky outcrops. Between the trees I spot the small lake.

View of Tinnsjøen above Hovin church.

Enclosed path by vegetation after leaving Hovin.

It is a nice place to camp, a scenic lake in pleasant surroundings, but there is a catch. A hoard of mosquitos and gnats are just as happy to be here as I am. I prepare and eat dinner while the sky is providing some nice colours. At intervals, I feel the need to move a little bit around to escape the attention of the tiny blood suckers.

Light from the setting sun.

In all, quite a good day. The sort of prologue from Gransheard to Tinnoset was pleasant. I was very satisfied with the walk down to Tinnsjøen from Rauadammen, which was both scenic and interesting. The remaining walk to Hovin church was for the most part nice. And it ended with another satisfying walk up into Ramnskardåsen with trees coloured by the setting sun.

The path up into Ramnskardåsen.

I have no idea how far I will go tomorrow, how exciting!

Bråtådokktjønn.

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