Gjevilvatnet - Oppdal - Trondheim.
Distance: 254.7km. 11 days.
In the Winter of 1028-1029 Olav den Hellige was on the run from a more powerful king, Knut den Mektige. With a significant smaller fleet of ships, he set shore in Valldal and led his remaining faithful men over the mountains to Gudbrandsdalen and from there further on through Sweden to Novgorod. This is the backstory of Valldalsleden, the pilgrim path starting at Valldal, which connects with the Gudbrandsdalsleden path from Oslo at Dovre, ending at Nidarosdomen in Trondheim.
Evening sun over Gjevilvatnet.
Earlier in the summer, I had hiked Valldalsleden from its start at Valldal to Fokstugu. From there I had backtracked a bit on Gudbrandsdalsleden to Budsjord in order to hike Gaustigen, a lesser known trail and pilgrim path of old to Gautåsætrin at Dovre. From there, I had followed Gudbrandsdalsleden again over Dovre to Oppdal. At that time, I had not planned to continue further, as I had already done a through-hike of Gudbrandsdalsleden all the way to Trondheim from Oslo. In total I used ten days from Valldal to Oppdal.
Reindeers in Trollheimen.
When I had abandoned my plan to hike the Rondanestien trail back towards Oslo after finishing the Jotunheimstien trail, as I was not motivated to do it, I had struggled to come up with a replacement plan. Several ideas, both old and new, had come to my mind. Few resonated with me, and in the end, I had just decided upon completing Valldalsleden from Oppdal to Nidaros.
At Blåhøa.
On the other hand, I was drawn to the mountains. Close to Oppdal lies Trollheimen, a mountain area with a very popular hike going through it. Three paths that forms a triangle known as Trekanten, starting from the Gjevilvasshytta cabin, and going to the Trollheimshytta and Jøldalshytta cabins before returning to the former cabin.
Typical scenery in Trollheimen around the Trollheimshytta cabin.
Arguably not a part of the pilgrim path to Trondheim at all, this hike felt a part of my trail.
Ascending up through the clouds towards Trollhøtta.
The weather was not to be my best friend on the hike through Trollheimen walking-wise, but it made for some wonderful dramatic scenery. I had a nice late hike up the area called Bruna in a wonderful evening sun upon arrival at the Gjevilvasshytta cabin, but the ensuing days was all about dramatic clouds and rain.
View from Trollhøtta.
Deep and low clouds lay heavy on the landscape as I hiked into the heart of Trollheimen, the landscape felt similar to the wildness of Scotland. Autumn colours coming to the fore. Reindeers running around. I met a couple of other hikers, whom I would meet again as they were doing the same hike as me.
The Trollhøtta massif reflected in a small mountain lake.
Voices in the air above prompted me to climb Blåhøa at 1672m, with clouds crashing into its sides like ethereal waves crashing into cliffs.
A bellowing reindeer buck.
Ancient and gnarled pines, and a landscape dominated by marshes surrounds the old Trollheimshytta cabin, with the low clouds adding fairy tales to my walk. The next day, after a cosy evening illuminated by carefully tended candles, I climb over the rocky peak of Trollhøtta. Below the summit at 1614m, the clouds were floating around the mountains like islands in an ocean.
Autumn in Trollheimen.
On the last day, a big reindeer ox bellowed loudly among his herd.
Gamle Kongeveg (the old Royal road) from Oppdal.
The hike through Trollheimen was dominated by the scattered rain and low clouds, with floating windows with views of the mountain landscape in between them. I did not miss a clear blue sky a bit. When speaking photography, this was far better.
The pilgrim albergue at Hæverstølen just as cosy as before.
Back in Oppdal I had continued my pilgrimage on the Valldalsleden path from earlier this year. As some might point out, I followed the Gudbrandsdalsleden path, but I see it more like that those paths are sharing the way the rest of the way to Trondheim and Nidaros.
Walking next to the Orkla river on the lower route of the pilgrim path before Stamnan.
The places that I walked through, though, was the same that I had walked through last year. Some of the nights, I slept in the same places as then. Other nights, I tried out other places. And while Sundet Gård was my preferred place to sleep on the last night, I had to find another accommodation as it was not possible to stay there this time.
View from Skruen above Voll, the peaks of Trollheimen in the background.
Hæverstølen, Meslo Gård and Gumdal Gård was the same hospitable and friendly places that I remembered from last year. New to me was Segard Hoel, another welcoming hostel for the pilgrims where they sleep in an old farm building.
Gamlebua at Voll.
Another change from last year was the sudden meeting of other pilgrims. Walking the Gudbrandsdalsleden path can be a very solitary walk. Last year, I walked for two weeks before meeting the first other pilgrim. This time, I got more company along the way, and it was welcome. Roll a dice and if you are lucky, it comes out with a lucky number. On the way to Trondheim, I got company from Rosalia from Italy and Daniel from Germany. Later on, I met Norman, also from Germany.
A grey weather awaited us out from Segard Hoel.
Last year, when I walked to Stamnan and Meslo Gård, I chose the path that went on the higher ground past Slipran. This time, I went for the lower path going next to the Orkla river. It was a nice walk, providing insights into the fishing opportunities in the river.
Medskogsvatnet, a small detour from the pilgrim path through Skaun leads you to this scenic spot.
When doing long distance trails, I often feel that one should not only pay heed to the places that one passes right next to, but make time to see what lies beyond them too. All within reasonable distances of course. Before I arrived at Voll, I went up to Skruen. A steep, but rewarding climb that provided me with some great views over the landscape hidden from my sight while walking down in the valley. Best of all was the view over the peaks of Trollheimen in the distance.
Lykkestien ('The Happiness Trail') at Øysand.
On the last night before I arrived in Trondheim, the northern lights had danced across the dark sky, like ethereal pilgrims high above.
A tunnel of vegetation at Gaula.
Trondheim was the same as last year. As was Nidarosdomen, the cathedral where you find the tomb of Olav den Hellige. Although, this time, I had got company when celebrating the end of my pilgrimage. Together with Rosalia, Daniel and Norman, I had a good dinner at a restaurant in Trondheim.
Pipes of the organ and the rose window in Nidarosdomen.
To me the hike through Trollheimen was spectacular due to the weather and was the highlight of this journey, although I was satisfied with the pleasant continuation and fulfilment of Valldalsleden. Nothing new, but in some ways, I just had some relaxing days out walking and maybe that was all I needed at this time.
Out celebrating in Trondheim, Norman, Daniel, me and Rosalia.
