The Snowdonia Way (part 1): Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd

The Snowdonia Way, from Machynlleth to Conwy.
15th of July to 25th of July 2026.
Distance: 313.7km. 11 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-snowdonia-way-2026-276744781.

This is the first part of a series about my hike on The Snowdonia Way, mountain route. One disclaimer, photos I select for the series will be evenly distributed among the various parts, meaning a part may contain photos from another part in the series.

Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd
Distance: 124.6km. 4 days.

Three years ago I did The Cambrian Way, walking through the Welsh heartland from Cardiff to Conwy. That I did a complete thru-hike is unfortunately not something that I can say with cross my heart and fingers, because I had to skip the stages crossing over Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and the Glyderau due to some exceptionally horrendous weather. In other words, I had some unfinished business in Wales.

Machynlleth, The Snowdonia Way starts from the old town clock from 1874 in the centre of the town.

This summer I decided to go back to wrap things up, as I had got my eye on another long distance trail that would make it possible to combine with what I had remaining of The Cambrian Way. From Machynlleth, The Snowdonia Way also makes its way through a Welsh heartland, Snowdonia or Eryri as it is called in its native tongue.

Looking back from the climb up towards Tarren Hendre.

The main route is for the most part keeping to the valleys, although that does not mean it is without its ascents. In addition, an alternative mountain route has also been devised, where the route instead is climbing over the mountains surrounding the main route. The low-level route runs at about 156 kilometres, whereas the high-level clocks in at 196 kilometres and with a considerably greater degree of accumulated altitude meters.

At the top below Tarren Hendre, an undulating ridge towards Tarren Cwm-ffernal.

The mountain route is at times very often intersecting with The Cambrian Way, so there was a certain incentive to do the low-level main route in order to see new landscapes, but the higher ground still got the better of me.

View from the descent from Tarren Hendre, Cadair Idris in the background.

Machynlleth is a nice little market town located at the southern edge of the Eryri National Park, from where its old clock tower marks the beginning of the trail. The town is known for having been the seat of the Welsh Parliament of Owain Glyndŵr. Machynlleth is also known for the low-level training ground for fast flying planes, where fighter planes among others are flying at high speed through the valleys between the mountains, known as the Machynlleth Loop.

Leaving Abergynolwyn, The Snowdonia Way goes on a lovely path next to the Afon Dysynni river.

The trail has been devised in such a way that hikers can change between the high and low level routes for most of the stages, but not on the first. From Machynlleth, the main route heads towards Dolgellau, whereas I set forth in the direction of the village of Abergynolwyn, splitting the hike to Dolgellau between the peaks of Tarren Hendre and Cadair Idris.

Looking down towards Llanfihangel-y-Pennant from the climb up towards Cadair Idris.

Tarren Hendre might not be considered amongst the most prominent peaks of the trail, but it is a decent climb on a first day of a long distance hike. Especially given the rather unnatural high temperature, for it is hot. The grassy peak at 633m is reached after an initial climb up from Machynlleth, where one can hum along to the tunes of Bron-y-Aur by Led Zeppelin, followed by a descent before the final climb begins. All pleasant walking for most of the time. The undulating grassy ridge beckoned me to do a detour to the top of Tarren Cwm-ffernal with views of the sea.

Magnificent view from the top of the Pony Path, with Y Garn clearly visible and Yr Wyddfa in the horizon.

For this hike, I have preferred staying at accommodations instead of camping, given my memory of the rainy days on The Cambrian Way in mind. As would be told over the course of these articles, however, I could not have had more ideal conditions for camping due to the dry weather.

Walking down next to the Arthog waterfalls.

When I hiked The Cambrian Way, I had crossed over Cadair Idris in horrendous weather, but I had such a nice time when I finally arrived in Barmouth that I wanted to visit the seaside town again. However, opting to split the stage to Dolgellau in two also meant climbing up to the chair of Idris (Penygadair) twice, but with the beautiful weather it was worth it. Detouring from The Snowdonia Way, I made use of The Cambrian Way most of the way to Barmouth. However, I felt more tired than expected upon arriving, so although the evening was nice, I also felt that I did not get the most out of the detour revisit. The number of seagulls and their activities in the town were still just as prominent, however.

Barmouth carved head.

Walking over Cadair Idris in the now clear weather is just a perfect picture of how different hiking is when in clear conditions or when it is low visibility like I had the last time. Standing at the summit of Penygadair that time, I had no idea of how close the drop of the cliff face was. I could have been standing in the middle of a huge grassy expanse for all I knew, except that I was not. Although I had got some faint views back then, I am happy to see how the views really are, with Barmouth and the Mawddach estuary clearly visible and Yr Wyddfa in the horizon. The descent from Gau Graig is barely a path where the ground is hidden by the vegetation making slow progress going down as I cannot trust where I put my feet, still mesmerised that I climbed up there in the bad weather.

Crossing over the Mawddach Estuary on the wooden walkway of the Barmouth Bridge, with a view of Cadair Idris in the background.

Why there was not any accommodation available in Dolgellau became quite obvious when I arrived. There is a music festival in the town, Sesiwn Fawr, and the streets are crowded with people and the sounds of music from everywhere. I grab a coke and some beers, but seeing that I am tired after a long day of hiking, I am content to escape to my guesthouse in Dolgun Uchaf about twenty minutes outside of the town. It is a quiet place, and my room is very nice, so I just eat a loaded fries from one of the food and drink stalls, go to a food store to buy a little bit more food and snacks for the evening and go to my room and rest.

View from the summit of Cadair Idris, Penygadair, Llyn y Gader below.

Wales are experiencing an unusual dry and hot summer, severely manifested by several wildfires. From the summit of Y Garn, I could clearly smell the smokes from the nearby fire in the Rhinogau mountains. Y Garn is reached after a wonderful hike through woods, along a sublime precipice walk with views of the estuary and sea, and a climb both steep and gentle at times. All with the dominant eyes of Cadair Idris in the background. Windy at the summit.

Cadair Idris.

The descent from Y Garn is another route where a path is just a line on a map. Brackens are eventually engulfing me at all sides, and no respite is found on the cumbersome walk next to a stone fence. However, the ruins of a mountain farm provide serenity and shelter from wind as a nice place for having lunch. The upside of this is that I feel that I am in a rare remote area. The path is improving after the tranquil ruins. Who worked or lived here in the distant past?

In Dolgellau.

Towards Trawsfynydd, I walk with a feeling of both sadness and joy. Sad for the views of Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach in flames, remembering that wonderful stage of The Cambrian Way, now blackened. Joyful for the otherwise nice views, and for seeing that the fire will not threaten the next day of my hike going over Moel Ysgyfarnogod. It is a nice walk to Trawsfynydd from where the high and low level routes meet, but confusion at the end lead me to take the quiet road instead of through the farmland where the trail actually goes. I stay at a nice bunkhouse and enjoy a quiet evening at the local pub, which becomes livelier when festival goers return from Dolgellau. Three Belgian women doing the low-level route also ended up here, having found no place to stay in Dolgellau like me.

New Precipice Walk after Dolgellau, with a view of the Mawddach Estuary in the background.

Article continues in the next part (Trawsfynydd to Pen-y-Pass).

The Snowdonia Way:
- part 1: Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd.
- part 2: Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass.
- part 3: Pen-y-Pass - Conwy.

Wikiloc:
- stage 1: Machynlleth - Tal-y-Llyn.
- stage 2: Tal-y-Llyn - Barmouth.
- stage 3: Barmouth - Dolgun Uchaf.
- stage 4: Dolgun Uchaf - Trawsfynydd.

Postcard from The Snowdonia Way

Postcard from my hike on The Snowdonia Way from Machynlleth to Conwy in Wales in the summer of 2026.

Wikiloc: The Snowdonia Way.

Camino Fisterra: a continuation of the Ría de Muros-Noia

Camino Fisterra, from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre.
2nd of April to 4th of April 2026.
Distance: 110.0km. 4 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-de-la-ria-de-muros-noia-y-fisterra-258152240

I had planned to use four days to walk the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, which left me another four days before I had to head back home to Norway. Doing the Camino Sanabrés came up as an option, a route I had immensely enjoyed as a part of my Camino Mozárabe. I should be able to get from Ourense to Santiago de Compostela or the other way around in four days.

Leaving Santiago de Compostela for the end of the world.

However, doing the Camino Sanabrés meant either taking a bus to Ourense or walk the Camino in the opposite direction. I wanted to have a continuous walk and at the same time not spending too much time having to keep an eye on my phone all the time. In the end, I fall back to doing the Camino Fisterra yet another time.

The old mill over the Río Sarela.

Walking through one of the enchanted woods on the Camino Fisterra, after Auqapesada.

This is probably the one of the best ways to walk to the end of the world, it is such a beautiful Camino. Especially its enchanted forest sections. Doing a walk several times also means that you make notice to the changes along the way. A place that before was full of light, now appear with lights out. Or the opposite, a house in decline now suddenly being brought back to life.

Ponte Maceira.

Pink in bloom.

After Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, I must have gotten better in spotting alternative routes. I cannot say that I have seen any alternative routes out of Negreira before, but this time I see that there is a dotted line leaving the town on Gronze maps. The scenic variante del paseo fluvial follows the Río Barcala until it ascends through woods up to the village of Zas where it rejoins the official route.

Río Barcala on the variante del paseo fluvial after Negreira.

Waterfall on the variante del paseo fluvial after Negreira.

The most significantly change from my solitary pilgrimage on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia is the number of other pilgrims. It is a welcoming change, most notably on the evening on the first day. Where I stay at the Albergue Alto da Pena and share a communal dinner together with other pilgrims.

Sunrise from the Albergue Alto da Pena.

Next to me at the dinner table sits an Irish family that is walking towards Santiago de Compostela. They look very tired and when I tell them how far I plan to go the next day, they roll their eyes.

Landscape in the morning on the way towards Vilaserío.

And they might be right in rolling their eyes, for I have a long way to go. On the second stage on the Camino Fisterra I have always ended in either Olveiroa or O Logoso (likewise changing between Negreira and Vilaserío on the first day), this time I wanted to go somewhere else. I decided to go to Cee. It would make for more time in Finisterre, or so I thought.

Walking on the Camino Fisterra towards Monte Aro in the distance.

View from Monte Aro.

I share a long way the next day together with Christina from Germany, whom also was at the dinner at the Albergue da Alto da Pena. A pleasant company as the Camino winds around and slightly over Monte Aro with its views, and the rolling hills above Corzón.

Río Xallas between Olveiroa and O Logoso.

At the albergue in O Logoso, I am surprised by the absence of other pilgrims. At this time I had expected there to be others here. I get the greatest welcome of all however, by the smiling baby of the hosts sitting in the entrance to the café.

Looking back somewhere on the way between Hospital and Cee.

View of Cee and Cabo Fisterra from the Cruceiro da Armada.

I remember walking alone on the scenic route to O Logoso from Olveiroa on my first Camino Fisterra, now I walk alone the long and scenic way to Cee from O Logoso. I have a feeling that this section appears to be more and more open every time I go, as I see more of the surrounding areas every time I go. From the Cruceiro de Armada I can now see both Cee below and Cabo Fisterra in the horizon.

Praza da Constitución, Cee.

The werewolf alike sculpture called Vákner is still there, which gives me associations to the Norwegian word våkner. A word whose meaning is similar to awakens. Feels like the beast awakens.

Corcubión.

Through a narrow lane leaving Corcubión.

The sun is about to set over the hills as I reach Cee. I stay at the Hotel Larry where my room has a great view of the bay. Tired, I do not do much in the evening other than slowly walk down to the centre of the town for a hamburger and a couple beers relaxing after a long and satisfying walk on the Camino.

Praia de Estorde.

In the first part of the Camino Fisterra, the enchanted forests are the highlight, on the last section it is the coastal walk with views of the sea and the cape at the end of the world.

View of Finisterre from Mirador de Talón.

With only about 16 kilometres to go to the lighthouse at Finisterre, I take my time. Time flies when you have enough of it. I dawdle. Spending some time in the morning in Cee, taking a coffee in lovely Corcubión, walking the sand on Praia de Estorde. And of course go swimming, together with three other Spanish pilgrims, I take a dip in the somewhat chill water at the Praia de Talón. On the other side there is only the sea and the tip of the Cabo Fisterra.

Praia de Talón.

Plaza Constitución, Finisterre.

Arriving in Finisterre, I eat lunch, meeting Edgar from Latvia again whom I also met at the Albergue Alto da Pena. Out to the Faro de Fisterra I take the route going over the top of the cape. With most of the walking going on a gravel track rather than on a paved road. Views are wonderful of the sea, and the Praia do Mar de Fóra and the cliffs behind. I walk out to the Ermita de San Guillermo, but only the views and the foundations are remaining. Taking this route is recommended. The Punta de Finisterre is teeming with people. It feels more crowded than before.

Praia do Mar de Fóra.

Ermita de San Guillermo.

The sunset is beautiful.

Cabo Fisterra.

Back in Finisterre, I sit down at the only available table at a restaurant. However, there is an Italian pilgrim that apparently is before me in the line, but she is so kind to share her table with me. A pleasant end to the day.

0.00km.

It is Easter Eve and Finisterre is ready for fiesta. There is a funfair in town and a concert next to the port. It is amusing to walk between the various stalls and have a beer while listening to the music, but in the end, I am too tired to keep it up for long.

Sunset at Finisterre.

Sunset at Finisterre (slight return).

I return to Santiago de Compostela by bus the next day, on the bus are also the three women that I went swimming with. Together with them and some other pilgrims, I spend some time in the city watching the Easter processions and having lunch. Another one of those Camino moments.

Concert at the Easter Eve party at the end of the world.

In the evening, I sit down for a beer in the same bar that surprised me with dancing earlier on my walk. This time, it surprises me with people gathering to play music together, traditional folk music both Galician and Celtic in style. However, what surprises me the most is that I see so many pilgrims just walking past the place, and not coming in to listen.

Easter procession in Santiago de Compostela.

This wraps up my Easter Camino. Four days of a solitary pilgrimage on the relatively new Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, followed by four days of a more social pilgrimage on the Camino Fisterra. I am happy.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia

Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, from Muros to Santiago de Compostela.
29th of March to 1th of April 2026.
Distance: 154.1km. 4 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-de-la-ria-de-muros-noia-y-fisterra-258152240

And then, suddenly a Camino de Santiago that I had not heard of before. Kind of appearing out of the blue, discovered by chance as I was checking something out on Gronze while walking my winter Camino Portugués. A new line on the map, going by the name of Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

This set the sails for a Camino during Easter.

Concello de Muros.

If the statistics of the Oficina de Acogida al Peregrino in Santiago de Compostela is accurate, the first pilgrims that saw the light of day on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia was in 2021. However, I am pretty sure that the line on the map appeared later than that, I might be wrong of course. According to Gronze the route received recognition as an official Camino de Santiago route in 2020 by the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

Iglesia de San Pedro in Muros.

This is apparently a historic pilgrimage route to the tomb of Saint James, now awakened back to life. One notable historic person that did the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela this way was the Venetian merchant Pietro Quirini. Although he apparently did it on horseback, to pray for safe passage after having to seek port to repair his ship after it was damaged in storms on the way from the Mediterranean to Flanders. In Norway he is best known for having drifted ashore off the island of Røst in Lofoten in 1432.

Muíño de Mareas Pozo do Cachón. A tidal mill that harnessed the movement of the tides thanks to its 230 meter long dam.

After Muros the Camino utilizes a narrow path next to the Muros-Noia estuary to escape walking on the road.

The Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia starts from the historical site of Muros, located on the northern side of the Muros and Noia estuary. The original route is however not long enough to be eligible for receiving the Compostela in itself, so an additional stage from the seaside town of Porto do Son to Noia was added to the route, making the total length of the Camino about 102 kilometres. From Noia, the two routes converge and continues together to Santiago de Compostela.

View from the Cruz de Pelos with Muros directly on the other side of the bay.

Getting to Muros is not difficult, by taking the same bus from Santiago de Compostela that goes to the end of the world, Finisterre. Stepping of the bus in the town gives me a feeling that it is not full spring yet, with a chilly and gusty wind forcing me to put on my jacket. Muros is a nice little town boasting narrow and cobbled streets, old buildings and a seaside port. If open, you can get a stamp in the Iglesia de San Pedro, a 13th century church that was transformed into a collegiate church in the 14th century by Pope Alexander VI.

Waymarker of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, notice the emblem at the bottom depicting a ship.

Despite having a kind of coastal profile, the route from Muros to Noia follows the old royal road, which typically avoided the coastline, being more treacherous in the old times than it is today. On the first day I walk to the quiet O Cruceiro de Roo, alternating between walking through villages close to the sea and excursions into the hills and woods above on ancient paths that in between retain their original paved stones.

On the Camino through woods towards Bornalle, with a cross made of scallops.

Ancient are also the Petrogrifo Fontemoureira, petroglyphs found in the hills above Freixo. Far from being ancient are the deep scars of forestry machinery marring the trail down from the petroglyphs.

Petrogrifo Fontemoureira.

Promises of a magnificent view of the Noia-Muros estuary got the better of me and I temporarily left the Camino to climb up to the Cruz de Pelos. At the top there is wizard playing the bagpipe, although it is not for me, but for the participants of a race passing by the cross. The promises were kept; the views were wonderful.

A lovely section of the Camino after O Cruceiro de Roo walking next to a small creek.

After O Cruceiro de Roo, the Camino goes on a relatively long route to the North of the estuary and the Río Tambre river, again alternating between passing through villages in a cultural landscape and going through sections of quiet woods. On the way to Noia, there are two bridges standing out, the relatively secluded Ponte do Ruso and the Ponte Nafonso which is used to cross over the Tambre river. Watch out for a short and wonderful walk visiting old water mills at Muiños do Rego das Cunchas while walking on the road after Ponte Nafonso.

Ponte do Ruso.

In A Serra de Outes, I opted for the alternative route going through the small town on a quiet path next to the Río Entins, which I can recommend. Pilgrims has the option of another alternative route before the last kilometres into Noia, where the official route mostly goes through an urbanized landscape. The coastal variant passing by A Barquiña is definitely recommended as it offers more woodland sections, nice views of the Ría de Muros-Noia and enters Noia on a promenade next to the water. However, the alternative route does not feature any waymarks at all and at the time of writing requires navigational aids such as a GPS device or an app on your phone, such as Gronze.

View from Alto do Toxo on the way towards A Ponte Nafonso.

Ponte Nafonso.

Noia is said to be a little version of Santiago de Compostela. Probably due to the similarity of old buildings in its old town, and the monumental portal of the Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia which for some might bear some resemblance to the Pórtico de la Gloria of the more famous cathedral in Santiago. The square with the church is a nice spot.

From the coastal variant towards Noia.

When I was walking the Camino, the albergue in Noia was still closed, but as I write this article it has opened, marking it as the first and at this time only albergue on this Camino.

Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia.

After having had lunch and a break in Noia, I walk to Porto do Son, doing the Camino in reverse. This stage of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia sees more walking on paved roads than those before, although still pleasant in some ways. I opted for the official route when walking to Porto do Son, but walked the alternative routes when walking back to Noia. The alternative routes go by the Playa de Coira and Playa de Agüieira beaches, but are not waymarked. Going for a swim is tempting.

The sun and the sea from Porto do Son.

Secadero de Congrios in Porto do Son. This structure is similar to a structure used in Norway to hang up fish to dry, only this is specific to eels.

Both in O Cruceiro de Roo and in Porto do Son I faced some uncertainty in terms of getting dinner, bringing back memories from Pontevedra on New Year’s Eve. In O Cruceiro de Roo on Palm Sunday, I was told that there was a place that should open at eight o’clock, but when I arrived there a little after eight it was closed. Spanish opening hours are a familiar term and checking on the place later, I found it open. In Porto do Son, the only place that I found that was open was of the more expensive kind, but the food was delicious.

Walking on a boardwalk next to the Playa de Agüieira.

Playa de Langaño.

The stage from Porto do Son to Noia is just 16km long, but that leaves me time to explore another alternative section of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia. From Noia, pilgrims have the option to follow the variante fluvial to the monastery of San Xusto de Toxosoutos instead of the original route that follows the old camino real. The route splits at the Ponte de Traba bridge in Noia, but there are again no waymarks. However, later on the variant, Camino milestones suddenly make an appearance, probably meaning that they are in the process of waymarking it.

Ancient village of Xei.

Variante fluvial from Noia to Toxosoutos.

The walk on the verdant river variant is pure joy and is undoubtedly the highlight of this Camino. With just a few short exceptions, the route for the most part goes on a beautiful path next to the Río de Vilacoba river, which is both narrow and gnarly at times. On the way one passes by remnants of old water mills, the ruins of the ancient village of Xei and the immense ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.

Ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.

Serenity is the cliché as I walk next to the river and passing by the several waterfalls on the way. When arriving at the old monastery at Toxosoutos, continue following the river upstream to rejoin the original route. The route on Gronze maps will instruct you to leave the river at the church, but this will make you miss out on the last scenic section. I return to Noia by the way of the official route.

A scenic waterfall on the variante fluvial with the remnants of an old mill next to it.

On the fourth and final day to Santiago de Compostela, I return to Toxosoutos on the official route, which in itself is not bad at all. There are some short sections when I have to walk on a road, but the route is mostly dominated by forest once I have climbed up through the outskirts above Noia.

Another wonderful scenic spot on the river variant between Noia and Toxosoutos.

However, shortly after Toxosoutos with its old monastery, the Camino takes to the road for a couple of kilometres. Thankfully, the road is not heavily trafficked, but the walking is uninspiring. Arriving in Urdilde, I can for the first time see Santiago de Compostela in the distance. From the small town there is about 20 kilometres to the cathedral, I wonder if this is the place that is the farthest away on any Camino from where you can see Santiago.

Walk the light fantastic, through the woods on the official route from Noia to Toxosoutos.

The last stage carries some similarities to the final stage of the Camino Portugués, and they are not passing very far from each other as well as they get closer to Santiago de Compostela. Although dominated by hard surface, it is a quite pleasant walk through rural areas with villages, wayside crosses, chapels and the occasional forest section. At the old Pazo de San Lourenzo de Trasouto cloister, the route joins the Camino Fisterra although you likely will not meet any other pilgrims on it as they will have left for the end of the world earlier on the day.

Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.

To me this is actually the best route into Santiago de Compostela, with the reward of arriving at the cathedral with its façade facing you.

A layered landscape before Urdilde.

Not many pilgrims have walked the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia yet and I am curious of how many more pilgrims it will see in the coming years. On the downside, the Camino does feel a little bit contrived. On reason being the necessity to add the stage from Porto do Son to Noia in order to be able to cover the necessary distance to get the Compostela. According to Gronze, the ratio between hard and soft surface is about fifty-fifty. The waymarking is adequate, but not excellent and attention is sometimes needed.

Iglesia de Santa María dos Ánxeles.

On the positive side the route does offer a varied walk. The highlights are the views of the estuary, scenic woodland sections, pleasant cultural landscapes and the nice towns like Muros and Noia. What constitutes the biggest reason to walk this Camino is the verdant river variant from Noia to the Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.

Through woods before Bertamiráns.

Santiago de Compostela seen from Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

In the evening in Santiago I am so fortunate to witness a group of people gathering at a local café to play music, to sing and to dance. It is a surprising experience, making a wonderful end of my pilgrimage on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.