Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia

Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, from Muros to Santiago de Compostela.
29th of March 2026 to 1th of April 2026.
Distance: 154.1km. 4 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-de-la-ria-de-muros-noia-y-fisterra-258152240

And then, suddenly a Camino de Santiago that I had not heard of before. Kind of appearing out of the blue, discovered by chance as I was checking something out on Gronze while walking my winter Camino Portugués. A new line on the map, going by the name of Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

This set the sails for a Camino during Easter.

Concello de Muros.

If the statistics of the Oficina de Acogida al Peregrino in Santiago de Compostela is accurate, the first pilgrims that saw the light of day on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia was in 2021. However, I am pretty sure that the line on the map appeared later than that, I might be wrong of course. According to Gronze the route received recognition as an official Camino de Santiago route in 2020 by the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

Iglesia de San Pedro in Muros.

This is apparently a historic pilgrimage route to the tomb of Saint James, now awakened back to life. One notable historic person that did the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela this way was the Venetian merchant Pietro Quirini. Although he apparently did it on horseback, to pray for safe passage after having to seek port to repair his ship after it was damaged in storms on the way from the Mediterranean to Flanders. In Norway he is best known for having drifted ashore off the island of Røst in Lofoten in 1432.

Muíño de Mareas Pozo do Cachón. A tidal mill that harnessed the movement of the tides thanks to its 230 meter long dam.

After Muros the Camino utilizes a narrow path next to the Muros-Noia estuary to escape walking on the road.

The Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia starts from the historical site of Muros, located on the northern side of the Muros and Noia estuary. The original route is however not long enough to be eligible for receiving the Compostela in itself, so an additional stage from the seaside town of Porto do Son to Noia was added to the route, making the total length of the Camino about 102 kilometres. From Noia, the two routes converge and continues together to Santiago de Compostela.

View from the Cruz de Pelos with Muros directly on the other side of the bay.

Getting to Muros is not difficult, by taking the same bus from Santiago de Compostela that goes to the end of the world, Finisterre. Stepping of the bus in the town gives me a feeling that it is not full spring yet, with a chilly and gusty wind forcing me to put on my jacket. Muros is a nice little town boasting narrow and cobbled streets, old buildings and a seaside port. If open, you can get a stamp in the Iglesia de San Pedro, a 13th century church that was transformed into a collegiate church in the 14th century by Pope Alexander VI.

Waymarker of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, notice the emblem at the bottom depicting a ship.

Despite having a kind of coastal profile, the route from Muros to Noia follows the old royal road, which typically avoided the coastline, being more treacherous in the old times than it is today. On the first day I walk to the quiet O Cruceiro de Roo, alternating between walking through villages close to the sea and excursions into the hills and woods above on ancient paths that in between retain their original paved stones.

On the Camino through woods towards Bornalle, with a cross made of scallops.

Ancient are also the Petrogrifo Fontemoureira, petroglyphs found in the hills above Freixo. Far from being ancient are the deep scars of forestry machinery marring the trail down from the petroglyphs.

Petrogrifo Fontemoureira.

Promises of a magnificent view of the Noia-Muros estuary got the better of me and I temporarily left the Camino to climb up to the Cruz de Pelos. At the top there is wizard playing the bagpipe, although it is not for me, but for the participants of a race passing by the cross. The promises were kept; the views were wonderful.

A lovely section of the Camino after O Cruceiro de Roo walking next to a small creek.

After O Cruceiro de Roo, the Camino goes on a relatively long route to the North of the estuary and the Río Tambre river, again alternating between passing through villages in a cultural landscape and going through sections of quiet woods. On the way to Noia, there are two bridges standing out, the relatively secluded Ponte do Ruso and the Ponte Nafonso which is used to cross over the Tambre river. Watch out for a short and wonderful walk visiting old water mills at Muiños do Rego das Cunchas while walking on the road after Ponte Nafonso.

Ponte do Ruso.

In A Serra de Outes, I opted for the alternative route going through the small town on a quiet path next to the Río Entins, which I can recommend. Pilgrims has the option of another alternative route before the last kilometres into Noia, where the official route mostly goes through an urbanized landscape. The coastal variant passing by A Barquiña is definitely recommended as it offers more woodland sections, nice views of the Ría de Muros-Noia and enters Noia on a promenade next to the water. However, the alternative route does not feature any waymarks at all and at the time of writing requires navigational aids such as a GPS device or an app on your phone, such as Gronze.

View from Alto do Toxo on the way towards A Ponte Nafonso.

Ponte Nafonso.

Noia is said to be a little version of Santiago de Compostela. Probably due to the similarity of old buildings in its old town, and the monumental portal of the Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia which for some might bear some resemblance to the Pórtico de la Gloria of the more famous cathedral in Santiago. The square with the church is a nice spot.

From the coastal variant towards Noia.

When I was walking the Camino, the albergue in Noia was still closed, but as I write this article it has opened, marking it as the first and at this time only albergue on this Camino.

Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia.

After having had lunch and a break in Noia, I walk to Porto do Son, doing the Camino in reverse. This stage of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia sees more walking on paved roads than those before, although still pleasant in some ways. I opted for the official route when walking to Porto do Son, but walked the alternative routes when walking back to Noia. The alternative routes go by the Playa de Coira and Playa de Agüieira beaches, but are not waymarked. Going for a swim is tempting.

The sun and the sea from Porto do Son.

Secadero de Congrios in Porto do Son. This structure is similar to a structure used in Norway to hang up fish to dry, only this is specific to eels.

Both in O Cruceiro de Roo and in Porto do Son I faced some uncertainty in terms of getting dinner, bringing back memories from Pontevedra on New Year’s Eve. In O Cruceiro de Roo on Palm Sunday, I was told that there was a place that should open at eight o’clock, but when I arrived there a little after eight it was closed. Spanish opening hours are a familiar term and checking on the place later, I found it open. In Porto do Son, the only place that I found that was open was of the more expensive kind, but the food was delicious.

Walking on a boardwalk next to the Playa de Agüieira.

Playa de Langaño.

The stage from Porto do Son to Noia is just 16km long, but that leaves me time to explore another alternative section of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia. From Noia, pilgrims have the option to follow the variante fluvial to the monastery of San Xusto de Toxosoutos instead of the original route that follows the old camino real. The route splits at the Ponte de Traba bridge in Noia, but there are again no waymarks. However, later on the variant, Camino milestones suddenly make an appearance, probably meaning that they are in the process of waymarking it.

Ancient village of Xei.

Variante fluvial from Noia to Toxosoutos.

The walk on the verdant river variant is pure joy and is undoubtedly the highlight of this Camino. With just a few short exceptions, the route for the most part goes on a beautiful path next to the Río de Vilacoba river, which is both narrow and gnarly at times. On the way one passes by remnants of old water mills, the ruins of the ancient village of Xei and the immense ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.

Ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.

Serenity is the cliché as I walk next to the river and passing by the several waterfalls on the way. When arriving at the old monastery at Toxosoutos, continue following the river upstream to rejoin the original route. The route on Gronze maps will instruct you to leave the river at the church, but this will make you miss out on the last scenic section. I return to Noia by the way of the official route.

A scenic waterfall on the variante fluvial with the remnants of an old mill next to it.

On the fourth and final day to Santiago de Compostela, I return to Toxosoutos on the official route, which in itself is not bad at all. There are some short sections when I have to walk on a road, but the route is mostly dominated by forest once I have climbed up through the outskirts above Noia.

Another wonderful scenic spot on the river variant between Noia and Toxosoutos.

However, shortly after Toxosoutos with its old monastery, the Camino takes to the road for a couple of kilometres. Thankfully, the road is not heavily trafficked, but the walking is uninspiring. Arriving in Urdilde, I can for the first time see Santiago de Compostela in the distance. From the small town there is about 20 kilometres to the cathedral, I wonder if this is the place that is the farthest away on any Camino from where you can see Santiago.

Walk the light fantastic, through the woods on the official route from Noia to Toxosoutos.

The last stage carries some similarities to the final stage of the Camino Portugués, and they are not passing very far from each other as well as they get closer to Santiago de Compostela. Although dominated by hard surface, it is a quite pleasant walk through rural areas with villages, wayside crosses, chapels and the occasional forest section. At the old Pazo de San Lourenzo de Trasouto cloister, the route joins the Camino Fisterra although you likely will not meet any other pilgrims on it as they will have left for the end of the world earlier on the day.

Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.

To me this is actually the best route into Santiago de Compostela, with the reward of arriving at the cathedral with its façade facing you.

A layered landscape before Urdilde.

Not many pilgrims have walked the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia yet and I am curious of how many more pilgrims it will see in the coming years. On the downside, the Camino does feel a little bit contrived. On reason being the necessity to add the stage from Porto do Son to Noia in order to be able to cover the necessary distance to get the Compostela. According to Gronze, the ratio between hard and soft surface is about fifty-fifty.

Iglesia de Santa María dos Ánxeles.

On the positive side the route does offer a varied walk. The highlights are the views of the estuary, scenic woodland sections, pleasant cultural landscapes and the nice towns like Muros and Noia. What constitutes the biggest reason to walk this Camino is the verdant river variant from Noia to the Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.

Through woods before Bertamiráns.

Santiago de Compostela seen from Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

In the evening in Santiago I am so fortunate to witness a group of people gathering at a local café to play music, to sing and to dance. It is a surprising experience, making a wonderful end of my pilgrimage on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Postcard from Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia y Fisterra

Postcard from my walk on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia and Camino Finisterre in the Easter.

Wikiloc: Camino de la Ria de Muros-Noia y Fisterra.

Camino Portugués: On a winter Camino from one year to another

Camino Portugués Central. Doing a Camino de Santiago in the winter from Facha to Santiago de Compostela.
28th of December 2025 to 3rd of January 2026.
Distance: 180.5km. 7 days.

For a long time I have contemplated doing a winter camino. Especially the Camino Francés. However, if I was to walk that route in the winter, I would like to do it in its entirety. Unfortunately, when I finally found time to embrace a Camino in the colder months, I had not that many days at my disposal. Instead my eyes went further south to Ponte de Lima in Portugal, and the Camino Portugués Central.

Estátua Peregrino on the way from Facha to Ponte de Lima.

Ponte de Lima.

To get there I flew to Lisbon and took a bus to Ponte de Lima. On the way I was passing by Santarém, Coimbra and Porto, reminiscing about my first Camino Portugués back in 2018.

Ponte Medieval e Romana in Ponte de Lima.

After a quick walk down another memory lane in Ponte de Lima, I felt so eager to start walking that I took a taxi to Facha. From the tiny hamlet there is a walk of about 8km back to Ponte de Lima. Those that saw me on the way, would have witnessed a face with a huge smile kind of like the Cheshire cat passing by, only without the vanishing act.

Frost smoke on the Camino outside Ponte de Lima.

When I walked into Ponte de Lima the sky was painted in pastel colours, with the arches of the old medieval bridge lit up by lights and the Largo de Camões square adorned by Christmas decoration. A small merry-go-round cheering up the children. Interestingly enough, there are more people here now than when I was here two years ago during the fall. Seeing more pilgrims at this time of year is on the other hand something that I do not expect.

View from Labruja.

Cruz dos Peregrinos on the way up twards Alto de Portela Grande de Labruja.

There are some things that pilgrims need to take into account when walking a Camino in the winter. First off and as already mentioned, do not expect to meet a lot of other pilgrims. If, however, you are a person that wants to avoid the crowds, this might be a good time of the year to do a Camino in. That being said, with fewer pilgrims on the way, the infrastructure is more limited as well. Not all of the pilgrim albergues will be open, and some of the cafés that cater to the pilgrims will also be closed. Finding a place for the night should not be a problem though, but at times one might need to stay at a more expensive place.

Walking next to the Coura river.

Then, of course, comes the weather. It will be colder than during the normal walking seasons, and you have to expect more frequent inclement weather. Carry some more warm clothes than usual and know that the albergues that are open will be much colder during the nights. Bring a warm sleeping bag instead of a sheet bag.

Valença do Minho in the evening.

Fortaleza de Valença shrouded in mist in the morning.

It was a cold morning when I walked out of Ponte de Lima, with frost smoke seeping up from the lovely stream and path at the beginning of the walk. Behind me another pilgrim followed me, wrapped thick in clothes. When I walked over the Alto de Portela Grande de Labruja the previous time, I got heavy rain, now the sky was a clear blue. Mind that you get the best view from a small hill to the left just after you start the descent from the pass. For my own part, one of the lures of doing the Camino Francés in wintertime would be to experience snow on O Cebreiro, the same thing would be a distant hope here.

Tui.

Arriving at the top of the ramparts of the Fortaleza de Valença, I got the last glimpse of the sun as it disappeared behind the hills in the horizon. Again a sky painted in pastel colours. Staying at the Pousada Valença does not really feel like the pilgrim way, but another thing when walking off season is that you can get to stay at a place that is normally way too expensive to a much more reasonable price. After eating dinner out in one of the very few restaurants open, I came out to the old fortress covered in fog.

Ponte das Febres and the Cruz de San Telmo.

The fog lasted through the night and well into the next day. Quiet streets and old bulwarks wrapped in low clouds provided a mysterious atmosphere, but no views of Spain like the day before. In Tui after having crossed into Spain, Valença do Minho with its fortress was barely visible across the Minho river.

Canal on the recommended alternative route to O Porriño.

The stage from Tui features some beautiful woodland sections, made atmospheric in the sombre weather, passing by the Cruz de San Telmo and the Ponte das Febres stone bridge crossing over the San Simón river where Saint Telmo died in 1251. It was a quiet walk with very few people around; I did not meet any other pilgrims until just before I arrived in Redondela.

View towards Redondela.

The Three Wise Men in front of Convento de Vilavella in Redondela.

As I approached O Porriño, where I stopped for lunch, the clouds took their leave and the rest of the way to Redondela became a warm walk in the sun. Redondela has always fascinated me, situated underneath its tall viaducts. In front of the Convento de Vilavella there was a sculpture of light depicting the Three Wise Men.

View from Alto da Lomba, Arcade and Ponte Sampaio below.

After Redondela, the way has changed. To the better. Where it before went too quickly down to the road leading to Arcade, it now heads uphills over Alto da Lomba on a track providing nice views over the estuary surrounding the Verdugo river. The Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio is still a highlight, and the rest of the walk to Pontevedra a pleasant one.

Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio.

Speaking of New Year’s Eve, I was not here for the sake of the celebration, but I considered it a bonus to be able to experience the transition into a new year while on the Camino. Celebrating it in Pontevedra however, turned out to be a somewhat surreal experience, mostly due to my own expectations.

Omg! They killed Kenny!

Pontevedra is hosting an annual New Year’s Eve race, the San Silvestri. Running through the streets are everything from the usual athletes to witches to rubber ducks to inflatable dinosaurs. Even the Grinch was out running. Afterwards the charming narrow streets in the old town were packed with people celebrating.

Convento e Igrexa de San Francisco in Pontevedra.

Ponte do Burgo in Pontevedra, New Year's Eve.

What I was not aware of, however, was that on New Year's Eve, all the restaurants close early. Luckily, not all of the food stores were closed, and I was able to buy some food that I could eat in my hotel room while I relaxed before going out to celebrate the transition into the new year.

Beautiful forest path on the way towards Caldas de Reis.

However, when I went out, I found myself all alone. There was not one person around. All the streets and squares were empty, by the look of it I had the whole city to myself. Where did every go? I had expected that they would be gathering at the squares counting down to the next year and doing their grape ritual, which amounts to eating one grape for each stroke of the clock leading up to midnight.

Ponte de Pedras.

At the Praza de España, a lone security guard gave me an answer. Unlike, for example in Madrid or Barcelona, it is not a tradition here to gather for fireworks and celebration in the squares in the city at midnight. Around eleven o'clock the bars and cafés closes, and then the Spaniards go home to have dinner, either with their family or with friends. Unfortunately for the grapes, they still do not escape. When the clock strikes twelve, the deep rumbles of fireworks has already been going on for a while.

Pontecesures.

Leaving Pontevedra the next morning is not so pleasant on the other hand, with the streets being full of garbage. I also pass by some stragglers from parties last night.

When I arrive in Padrón, chains of lights between the sycamore trees on Paseo Do Espolón guide me towards the Church of Santiago.

Padrón and the Convento do Carmen.

And with the change of year, there is also a change of weather. From blue and sunny days to a forecast of grey and rainy days. Despite the inclement weather and a long walk to Padrón, I had a nice day out. A calm of mind as I walk through melancholic forests, tranquil villages in the rain and a cultural landscape clad in grey. At dusk I cross the Roman bridge in Pontecesures with its lamps lit and a light rain in the air.

Another wonderful forest section on the Camino Portugués on the last day towards Santiago de Compostela.

If walking a Camino on the first day of a new year, one thing to be aware of is that almost all of the cafés and food stores will be closed. I was therefore happy to find a place that were open both in Caldas de Reis and Padrón so I that could get some food for lunch and dinner.

A small wooden ferris wheel at the Praza do Obradoiro.

The forecast for the last day had promising a wet walk to Santiago de Compostela, but the weather itself was not having any of it. I had barely any rain, although the sky was as dull as one could make it.

Christmas decoration on the walls of the convent next to Praza da Quintana.

Christmas decoration on Praza do Obradoiro.

In front of the Concello de Santiago de Compostella there is a Christmas installation with a merry-go-round and a Ferris wheel, both small and wooden. Praza do Obradoiro is busy as usual, but the number of pilgrims are as expected far fewer than normal. I wonder how it must be to arrive here in snow. I sit down at the square together with another pilgrim, with the sounds of children laughing from the Christmas installation in the background.

View of Santiago de Compostela and the cathedral from Monte de Moas Abaixo.

Being back in Santiago de Compostela I do what I enjoy the most when I am here, by just being here. No need to make specific plans, just walking around in the old town and then the occasional visit to the square in front of the cathedral taking in the joy of pilgrims arriving. It is no different now, just fewer pilgrims.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela from the Alameda park.