Kumano Kodo: Connecting the dots

In the previous articles, I have written about my walk on the different routes of the Kumano Kodo, now it is time to write about what happened between them. As my plan of walking the routes in a continuous line crumbled and fell apart, I had to find another way to connect the dots, or more correctly, the routes.

The Kozanji temple in Tanabe.

From Kiiji to Kohechi

It all started with what originally caused the chain to break, the section of Nakahechi between Tanabe and Takijiri-oji after finishing the Kiiji, where I had estimated the necessary time based on a wrong distance. I still have no idea where I got the distance that I operated on from.

A rainy day at Chikatsuyu.

Heavy rain was forecast and then with no possibility of reaching my accommodation for the night in proper time by walking, I made the easy decision to take the bus instead. I was to walk this section again at a later time anway, so I would not miss out on anything as well. It provided me with some time to explore both the Tokei-jinja shrine and Kozanji temple in Tanabe that I had not got the day before.

Akagi-goe. On the Nakahechi, walking towards the Hosshinmon-oji shrine and the Akagi-goe junction.

I spent the night at Guesthouse Housen just outside of Chikatsuyu, which has a rule of only accommodate one booking at a time. It somehow made me feel that I was holding up places for others given that the other rooms was then unoccupied, but on the other hand the food was plenty and delicious.

Akagi-goe. View from the path.

From there I took the bus to Hosshinmon-oji and walked a section of the Nakahechi backwards to the Akagi-goe junction, giving me a taste of the trail. Walking the Akagi-goe path to Yunomine Onsen was a part of my original plan, a quite nice path with some obstructed views of the surrounding mountains. With the ridgewalk at the top being the best part. Then from the special little village tucked inside a deep valley, famous for its hot springs, I hiked the Dainichi-goe path to Hongu, also as planned.

Akagi-goe. Nabeware Jizo.

Akagi-goe. Walking on what seems like a danchiku section.

From Kohechi to Ohechi

At the time when I finished Kohechi by walking the Choisimichi down to Kudoyama, I had finally made up my mind to not hike the Omine Okugakemichi, given the mistakes that I had made and that I felt mentally tired. The five days that I planned for the route, suddenly felt unsure. I spent the evening in Hashimoto as planned, given the good availability of supermarkets nearby in order to buy supplies for the hike.

Yunomine Onsen. Notice the square wooden enclosure, that is where they boil the eggs in the hot water.

In Hashimoto, I rearranged my plan for the first time, it would change again later. From there I took the train to Wakayama and then to Tanabe. In the afternoon I had enough time to walk the short section of the Nakahechi to Inabane-oji, thus amending the problem I would get later.

Dainichi-goe. Tsukimigaoka shrine.

From Ohechi to Iseji

One thing I probably had done right when I originally planned for this hike was to book two nights at Yunomine Onsen after Omine Ogukagemichi, having a rest day afterwards would be good. However, I had now to honour that booking, so after finishing Ohechi at Kumano Nachi Taisha, I made my way to Yunomine Onsen by taking the bus to Watarase Onsen and walking from there to my destined onsen.

Omine Okugakemichi. A wonderful view of Hongu, Ōyunohara and the Otorii gate from the Dai saibara tenbo dai viewpoint.

Omine Okugakemichi

I had a day at my disposal and what better way to use it than getting a glimpse of what I had missed out on. Omine Okugakemichi is considered the hardest of the routes, although it is not technically considered one of the Kumano Kodo routes. Here we are talking about around 100km of demanding hiking over the mountains from Yoshino to Kumano Hongu Taisha, which also involves a lot of scrambling. You have to carry all your own food and in order to be able to spend the night the whole way you have to bring camping gear. Incidentally, this is the only one of the routes that is still used for religious purposes, as the monks conduct ascetic training on it (shugendo). A good read and resource for the Omine Okugakemichi can be found here: https://randomwire.com/japan/kumano-kodo/omine-okugake/.

Omine Okugakemichi. On the trail.

Omine Okugakemichi. Cemetery and shrine at the Yamazai-toge pass.

From Yunomine Onsen, I walked the Dainichi-goe route again before venturing up into the hills, woods and mountains after crossing over the bridge to the south of Hongu. This section of the Omine Okugakemichi is probably not the most exciting compared to the other sections, but it was still nice to feel that I had at least done a bit of it. I walked past warnings of Asian giant hornets on paths that resembled much the same as those I had walked on previously on the Kumano Kodo. On the way, there is an amazing viewpoint overlooking Hongu and its giant Otorii.

Omine Okugakemichi.

Tsubo-yu in Yunomine Onsen, also on the UNESCO world heritage list, a very old hot spring you can get private access to for a limited time. It is also a small leap of faith.

I turned back after reaching the summit of Daikoku Tenjindake, a small insignificant top at only 573.6m with no views at all. At the Yamazai-toge pass with its small shrine, stupa and Jizo-statues, I opted for a return to Hongu by the road. Back in Yunomine Onsen, I took a bath in Tsubo-yu, which is an 1800-year-old hot spring also on the UNESCO list. There is also a possibility to boil your own eggs here in the hot springs.

Kumano Gawa. Embarking on the traditional boat trip on the Kumano-gawa river, inclement weather awaits the pilgrims on the boats.

Kumano Gawa

I returned to the fold by taking the traditional boat ride on the Kumano Gawa river to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Shingu, from where I was to start my adventure on the Iseji from the day after. It was a very wet experience, as heavy rain incessantly lashed at us, but it did not take away the good experience of it, only a couple of good photo opportunities as I did not want to take out either my camera or phone.

Kumano Gawa. On the traditional boat ride.

From Iseji to Nakahechi

From Shingu and Kumano Hayatama Taisha I walked Iseji returning to Hongu and Kumano Hongu Taisha yet again, taking the inland route from Kumano. I had been lucky and got a bed in a dormitory at the Kumano Backpackers, originally planned to take the bus to Tanabe after arriving in Hongu the same day. I then got on the bus the next day, returning to Inabane-oji to make the remaining section to Takijiri-oji on another rainy day.

Kakenukemichi. The path disappearing into the mist and woods.

From Nakahechi to Iseji

Originally the plan was to walk the Iseji in reverse to Ise, but when I had landed on a final plan, I was to start from Ise instead. Getting there was easy, taking the train from Shingu. In the meantime, as I had some time available again due to pre-booked accommodations, I ventured out to visit other sites and routes related to Kumano Kodo.

Kakenukemichi. View from below the Myohosan Amida-ji temple.

Kakenukemichi. Myohosan Amida-ji temple.

Kakenukemichi

This is a path that meanders its way above the sacred site of the Kumano Nachi Taisha. Its main place of worship is the Myohosan Amida-ji temple halfway up to the top of Myozandake mountain. It can be done as an extension of the Nakahechi if one wishes to do so, as the path goes in a loop from the Nachi Kogen park to a junction just above the grand shrine.

Kakenukemichi. The path leading up to the Okunion of the Myohosan Amida-ji temple.

Mist are lying low over the mountains as I walk it, with occasional sprinkles of rain on the way. At some times, I wonder whether I am on the right way, seeing the scarce path disappear into the woods. A little foreboding, but mysterious at the same time. There are waymarks, but not many of them.

Kamikura-jinja. The steep stairs leading up to the shrine.

Despite the low clouds and sombre weather, I get a brief but nice glimpse of the landscape below from a viewpoint just before the scenic Myohosan Amida-ja temple. The temple grounds are worth exploring before climbing further up towards the Okunoin, and then keep on a narrow path until you arrive at the Nachi Kogen park, where I see walkers on the Nakahechi emerge from the trees wet from the rain.

Kamikura-jinja shrine.

Kamikura-jinja

Prior to traveling to Ise, I visited the Kamikura-jinja in Shingu. This is an important shrine in the history of the Kumano Kodo as it is situated on a mountain where according to the myths the gods first descended to earth, Gongen-yama. To get there one must climb 538 stairs of stone, ending at the Gotobiki-iwa sacred rock. The shrine offers great views over Shingu. On February 6 every year the Oto Matsuri festival is being held, where men holding lit torches are running down the steep stairs.

Kamikura-jinja. Shrine and view.

Kamikura-jinja. View of Shingu.

Shingu Inosawa Ukishima Shokubutsu Gunraku

Returning from Kamikura-jinja I came across this floating island in the middle of Shingu, more normally known as Ukishima-no Mori. An island that is made up of peat and is about 5000 square meters big containing several amphibius plants. One can walk through the island on an exciting board walk, but beware not to go off that beaten path, remember that there is water underneath all that peat.

Ukishima floating island.

Kumano Kodo

Kumano Kodo is recommended if you are in Japan and also want to spend a few days of hiking in historical and natural surroundings. If you are one of those who are looking for more of a social aspect when hiking, the Nakahechi route is the one to choose, for those looking for a slightly bigger challenge you can choose Kohechi. In overall, Iseji became my favourite route that offer more of an adventure for those that wants that. And then there is the Kiiji and Ohechi, where Ohechi has some wonderful sections, but Kiiji is for those having to do them all.

Ukishima floating island. Boardwalk, do not try to walk outside of it.

< Iseji

Kumano Kodo: Iseji

Kumano Kodo Iseji: the eastern route.
Fudarakusan-ji to Kumano Hongu Taisha (Hongu), 18th of October to 22th of October 2024.
Futamino-Ura to Kumano Hayatama Taisha (Shingu), 30th of October to 6th of November 2024.
Distance: 314.8km. 14 days.

One of the routes that is starting to increase in popularity is the Iseji, the eastern route. This is a route that for a long time has been less accessible to foreign walkers, as both maps, descriptions of the route and existing waymarks has only been in Japanese. This has now changed and a route that may have been on the verge of oblivion has resurfaced from memory. However, it must be stated that the route does not see as many walkers as on the Kohechi or Nakahechi route and that one might not meet others while hiking it.

Map of the Kumano Kodo routes with Iseji outlined.

Iseji connects Kumano Sanzan with another of the most important shrines in Japan, Ise Jingu, which is the main centre of worship of the sun goddess Amaterasu. It consists of an Inner Shrine (Naiku), dedicated to Amaterasu and an Outer Shrine (Geku), which is dedicated to Ukemochi, the goddess of food. Every 60 years the Inner Shrine is rebuilt from scratch due to an ancient custom.

Fudarakusan-ji, with a example of a boat that was used by the tokaisha to find the Pure Land of Fudaraku.

Outside Kumano, at the Hana-no-Iwaya shrine, Iseji splits into two branches. One turns inland towards Kumano Hongu Taisha and one follows the coast to Kumano Hayatama Taisha. However, Ise is not from where I start my walk on the Iseji. Instead it is from the Fudarakusan-ji shrine in Nachi-Katsuura, although the section from the shrine to Shingu is technically probably more a part of the Nakahechi or Ohechi than Iseji.

Ojigahama beach, looking dark underenath a sombre sky.

Fudarakusan-ji is an interesting shrine as it is known for the ritual called Fudaraku Tokai. In this ritual monks were sent out to the sea on a suicidal mission to find Fudaraku or Mount Potalak, the Pure Land, believed to be an island near the coast of Japan. Setting out to meet their fate in small boats designed to look like shrines, the monks became known as tokaisha, pilgrims of the sea.

On the Onigajō walking trail outside of Kumano city.

The same sea is never far away when I walk on the Kumano Kodo to Kumano city from the temple, with walking on the long Shichiri-mihama beach, short but pleasant forest sections, a detour to an old whale hunting lookout spot with the nearby red Kinkoinari shrine in a verdant forest on the Koya-zaka slope, Hana-no-Iwaya shrine, Shishi-iwa rock, and orange juice tasting being the highlights of an otherwise less interesting walk. In the end, it is the hike around the Onigajō cliffs that comes out the best from the two days that I use to Kumano. A splendid walk on narrow stone paths and stairs past cave formations believed to be housing demons (Oni), although not a part of the Kumano Kodo.

The famous rice fields of Maruyama Senmaida.

Bear bells on the section of the Iseji between Kumano and Hongu. These big bells has been placed out so that hikers can warn bears or other animals of their coming, or play tunes on them if they are able to.

Demons or Oni they are not, but on the inland route towards Kumano Hongu Taisha I was thouroughly warned that there were bears around. Over the hills, through the woods and far away, people down in the valleys could probably follow my walk by hearing me trying to play a tune as I ring the large bells put out to announce the presence of a walker to the animals. The Japanese also often walk with a small bear bell hanging from their backpack, which can cause a tiny symphony when there are enough of them, but be cautious of how good an effect it really has.

Jizo at the Yojigawashurakuhaiji cemetery.

On the way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, I spend one day doing a loop in the area around Maruyama Senmaida. After visiting the famous rice fields, however, I enter a section of overgrown path where I manage to drop my phone. When I go back to search for it afterwards, I at first cannot find it. Seeing there is a rice field next to the path, now overgrown and full with water, I dread that the phone has fallen down into that ditch. When I drop down into the ditch to search for it, I manage to stick a pointed straw straight up my nose, causing me to instantly start to nosebleed. So there I am, fumbling through tall grass, water and what other things lurking about, looking for my phone while bleeding all over it and me. In the end, I find my phone tucked in deep underneath a bush back where I first believed to have lost it. At the ruins of the Akagi castle there is a public toilet where I could clean myself up and get something to raise my blood sugar level again from a vending machine. Best of all was returning to the wonderful Iruka Onsen Hotel Seiryuusou after the walk.

Inscriptions on a stone passed by on the way to the last pass of the Iseji before it joins the Nakahechi, which might be 'Namu Amida Butsu (I believe in Amida Butsu)'.

The Kumano Hongu Taisha Mikado gate.

Compared to the coastal route between Kumano And Shingu, the inland route to Hongu goes through a more rural scenery, and is a quieter and more exciting route, crossing over several passes on forest paths on the way. I spend the evening in Hongu before I take the bus to Inabane-oji to continue my Kumano Kodo journey on the Nakahechi as told in a previous article.

The Meoto-iwa wedded rocks at the Futami Okitama shrine outside Ise.

It is a dark and murky world outside when I take the train to Ise after having finished the Nakahechi, I am just happy to sit warm inside in the light as gloomy bays, hills and villages passes by the windows, knowing that in some days I would walk past those same bays, hills and villages. Hopefully in better weather.

Okage Yokocho in Ise, a street of old buildings now housing modern shops and restaurants.

Ise Jingu Geku, the outer shrine.

Although not a part of the Iseji, I opted to follow the walk Masako had tracked from the famous Meoto-iwa wedded rocks at the Futami Okitama jinja. Despite being less interesting before I arrive at the Asamagatake trailhead, it becomes a beautiful walk once climbing up into the mountains. I arrive at the Asamagatake Kongosho-ji temple walking through its alleyway of Sotoba wooden grave markers reaching from between two to eight metres in heigh. The top of Asamagatake provides heavy gusts of wind and great views of the sea and the Ise-Shima National Park. Down at the ancient streets of Okage Yokocho, I find myself at the original route of the Iseji.

Walking through rural areas and villages with tea bushes next to the path.

Having paid my respect for Amaterasu at the Ise Jingu, leaving Ise is a hike out of a city at the start, but then I get to the first pass (Meki-toge) and after that it is like I am stepping into another world. On the other side it is now rural with rice fields, rivers and small cozy villages wrapped in between mountains, spiced with green tea bushes next to the route.

A beaty spot on the Iseji, near the Sarugi-zaka slope one arrives at this scenic spot where one crosses the water on a makeshift bridge.

Another scenic spot, this is the view from the remains of the Mitsuse ferry, which the pilgrims back in time used to cross the river here.

When it comes to getting a place to stay for the night, I sort it out in the same way as when I had walked the Kiiji, by walking to a place with a train station from where I could get a train to my destination for the night. I also spend more than one night at some of the places.

Takiharanomiya shrine, a serene and peaceful place in the midst of a forest.

The route has its quirky parts. After Tochihara, the path crosses under the railroad and a road through a tunnel where hikers are advised to take the road if it is flooded. Masako had reported getting bitten by several leeches when she had walked through it when water was high, but there is no trouble when I get there. Only a string of interesting and scenic sections afterwards making use of small forested sections between the small villages. And then there is the boardwalk next to the Ouchiyama river after Taiki, with rusty leaves on its metallic floor, bearing hints of being forgotten.

The old Ouchi Yamanakagumi night light.

View from the Tsuzurato-toge pass, I was happy to reach this spot before the rain started for full.

After the Meki-toge pass, the Iseji follows an meandering valley slowly making its way towards to the ocean. On its course, the route crosses over some passes in the traditional vein of the Kumano Kodo like Sansezaka-toge before the impressive Takiharanomiya shrine. However, it is the Tsuzurato-toge that is the first pass to be the centre of the attention. Firstly, due to being the site of a bear attack only a month before I venture over it. Secondly due to the wonderful views from the top of the pass, and the steepness of its descent down towards Kihoku, marking the arrival of the route at the sea.

Dark and rainy clouds drifts in from the ocean of the coast of the Kii peninsula.

Rain hits, turning the path over the Miura-toge pass into a small creek.

Despite having planned for a long day with little leeway for excursions off the path, I am glad that I take the time to visit the Takiharanomiya shrine. Maybe it was due to the feeling that time itself could not enter the woods surrounding the impressive shrine. I could almost feel its absence as I walk through the natural alleyway between tall cedar trees, with old stone lamps and torii-gates leading to the tranquil Inner Shrine.

A wonderful walk on the climb up to the Magose-toge pass.

A beautiful sun shines through trees as I climb up the wonderful Magose-toge path. A stark contrast to the last part of the day before, where I felt I was back to the evening I took the train to Ise. Only that this time, I am outside the windows and not behind them. Out in the grey sea, cliffs stood headstrong in the torrent and the path over the Miura-toge pass turned into a series of fast-flowing small waterfalls.

A worthy detour, the (almost) summit of Tengurusan mountain before the descent to Owase.

Doi chikurin bamboo forest in Owase, reached through a small tunnel.

At Magose-toge, my only regret is not having time to visit the Elephant Rock of Binshiyama. Time had caught up with me again after losing it at the Takiharanomiya shrine. Instead, I make my way up to the top of Tengurusan, not a tall mountain in itself, but it offer great views over Owase below and out towards the sea. To get to the actual summit, which is a huge boulder, one has to climb up a metal ladder. Visit the Magose Fudo waterfall with shrine on the way down to Owase and experience an evening in a city that feels almost like being in the dark as it is when I am there.

Sakura no mori viewpoint of the sea and coast.

The route leaves Owase on an interesting path sneaking its way past the houses of the old town, one can visit the Kumano Kodo Centre located about 1km off the trail. I skip visiting the centre, only to probably waste the same amount of time visiting the Tenbō-no-oka viewpoint to cure my curiosity. A nice place, but the views are better later on the Kumano Kodo at the Sakura no Mori observation deck.

The green staircase on the Nigishima-toge and Okamizaka-toge pass section.

While still keeping the gnarled and mossy staircases of both stone and wood the Kumano Kodo is so famous for, with the green staircase on the Nigishima-toge and Okamizaka-toge pass section being my favourite, Iseji now passes by beaches, bays and small villages overlooking the ocean. Atashika is known in Japan for its beach and is a perfect spot for lunch and a dip in the ocean if the conditions are right.

Atashika beach.

I really enjoyed this day of walking past these small villages next to the sea, here Hadasucho village.

At the Obuki-toge pass, there is an option to walk the Kannon-michi instead. I opt for this alternative as I always has been fascinated by ruins. This route takes me to the site of the Hionzanseisuiji temple, which closed at the time of the second world war and is now a ruin. Despite not being that good waymarked, the route is wonderful, especially the descent towards Ōdomari past numerous Kannon statues.

The site of the ruins of the Hionzanseisuiji temple.

Yet another wonderful climb over a pass on a Kumano Kodo route, the Matsumoto-toge pass.

I finish the Iseji crossing over another nice pass, Matsumoto-toge, arriving once again in Kumano. This is where I at first had planned to end my walk on the Kumano Kodo after I changed my plans, but I felt that the proper ending should be at the Kumano Sanzan. I visit again the Shishi-iwa and Hana-no-Iwaya rock, before the long walk next to the Shichiri-mihama beach and end my walk at the Kumano Hayatama Taisha after 40 days and about 965 kilometres on the ancient routes of Kumano. In Shingu, I celebrate my finish eating my favourite Japanese dish, okonomiyaki, at a local restaurant.

Shishi-iwa lion rock outside Kumano City.

Wrapping it all up, Iseji became my definite favourite route of all of the Kumano Kodo. It felt in every essence more being on an adventure than the other routes. It contained all of those ancient paths that defines the Kumano Kodo, but it added so much more to the walk than that. Longer, more varied, more interesting, and more beautiful.

At the finishing line of my Kumano Kodo walks, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, having walked Kiiji, Kohechi, Ohechi, Nakahechi and Iseji.

< Nakahechi | connecting the Kumano Kodo routes >

Note: After finishing walking all the five main Kumano Kodo routes in Shingu, I spent some days in Kyoto and Tokyo as a regular tourist before flying back home to Norway.