The Snowdonia Way (part 3): Pen-y-Pass - Conwy

The Snowdonia Way, from Machynlleth to Conwy.
15th of July to 25th of July 2026.
Distance: 313.7km. 11 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-snowdonia-way-2026-276744781.

This is the third and final part of my series of my hike on The Snowdonia Way, mountain route. In the first part I wrote about the walk from Machynlleth to Trawsfynydd, and the second part from there to Pen-y-Pass.

Pen-y-Pass - Conwy
Distance: 81.4km. 3 days.

It is all fog at the Pen-y-Pass in the morning, quite different from the nice sunset the day before, but the fog does not linger long. Back on The Snowdonia Way, the trail is beautifully set going down towards the Nant Gwynant valley where it eventually joins the low-level route climbing up to the aforementioned Bwlch y Rhediad pass with views getting better and better as the trail progresses upwards.

Ogwen Valley and Tryfan from the Glyderau.

Time is on my side, or at least that is what I believe, so I make a detour from the top of the pass to the summit of Moel Meirch. I am now back in the Moelwynion and when I look at my map, it is interesting to see how close I am to the trail going south towards the summit of Cnicht some days earlier. Ruins or castles has always fascinated me, so when reading about the main route heading towards Dolwyddelan, I was wondering if I had time enough to walk down to the Dolwyddelan Castle and back up again, in the end I found Moel Meirch a more reasonable detour and the old castle just a little bit too far timewise.

Ogwen Valley on the main route of The Snowdonia Way.

Moel Siabod is the highest point of this day. I wonder at and wander up the grassy expanse leading up towards its rock strewn summit. From the summit, I can look down upon the remains of the Dolwyddelan Castle, so I still got to see it, although from a distance.

From the Pen y Gwryd Hotel, where Edmund Hillary and his team were staying when they trained for the Everest expedition.

Wales and my feet do not seem to be on the most compatible terms. I remember well how bad my feet hurt when I had walked to Tregaron on The Cambrian Way. And now, when I had crossed over Tarren Hendre on the first day, my feet had felt unusually sore. Descending from Moel Siabod, I again begin to feel a pressure-point in my left foot, later turning into spikes of sharp pain. I have had to spend some time to take care of my feet on this hike.

Sunset at Pen-y-Pass.

Capel Curig is a little village spread out. The old sixteenth century chapel giving name to the village is now a holiday home, but it is not where I will spend the night. Instead, I have a room at the Hall of the King, Plas y Brenin, which is now a mountain adventure centre.

View of Nant Gwynant.

It is the tenth day of my hike, and every day has been with nice and warm weather. Unusually warm for Wales many probably would say. Therefore it is a bit of a relief that the weather appears to turn, it is a welcome change. It does not rain, but after an initial sunny morning, clouds put a low blanket over the Glyderau, Ogwen Valley and the Carneddau. Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach and the Castell y Gwynt (Castle of the Winds) are all passed by in the fog, blending in with its lunar landscape. Small windows are opening up to the lakes and valleys below.

Yr Wyddfa from the other side of the Nant Gwynant valley.

The descent to Llyn y Cwn is particularly steep, going on loose rocks, but it brings me underneath the clouds to a dramatic vista. The Ogwen Valley is visible below with the Carneddau behind, but it is the now brooding peak of Tryfan that creates the drama in the frame. Ascending Y Garn, there is yet another roar from three fighter planes flying through the valley below me at high speed and low elevation, trailed by fumes. As above, so below.

Yr Wyddfa from the climb up Carnedd y Cribau.

From Y Garn, the path crosses the ridge over grassy Mynydd Perfedd and Carnedd y Filiast, with the blue colour of the sea in the distance underneath the grey clouds. Descent from the ridge down to the Nant Ffrancon valley is steep on a part visible, part faint path. The last section into Bethesda goes on a pleasant path called The Surgeon’s Path through a forest. And once down in the valley, the sun is out and shining again.

Dolwyddelan Castle seen from Moel Siabod.

I had got a room at the Snowdonia Mountain Lodge for the night, but it is located a little bit outside of the town, back up in the Nant Ffrancon. In Bethesda, I find a pub that does food, and eat a fish and chips for dinner. Then I buy some snacks for the evening and walk up my accommodation, there is a pavement all the way.

Gloomy view of Tryfan and Ogwen Valley underneath the clouds from Y Garn.

The longest day on The Snowdonia way, both low and high, is the last stage from Bethesda to Conwy and its medieval castle. From Bethesda, the mountain route ventures up into the Carneddau range by climbing up to Carnedd Gwenllian, while the main route goes below the range before entering its lower northern parts. The Cambrian Way, on the other hand, climbs up to the range by Pen yr Ole Wen, also climbing over the highest point of the Carneddau, Carnedd Llewelun at 1064m, which The Snowdonia Way does not.

A fighter plane flying low through the Ogwen Valley, seen from Y Garn.

I remember the horrendous weather from when I hiked over the Carneddau on The Cambrian Way, with heavy wind and rain. And with the low visibility making it a challenging walk navigation wise. In retrospect, of course, it was one of the most memorable days on my hike. Heading up towards Lefn, Gryn and Drosgl, the sky is promising, but the cliché is that weather can change quickly in the mountains. And so it does. At Carnedd Gwenllian I barely get to discern the valleys below before clouds engulfs me and the summit. In the direction of Foel Grach, I can see several of the horses roaming around these mountains, as well as a lone walker whom I get to talk to a little bit later.

Looking back towards Foel Goch.

Rain was forecast for today, which in itself is sorely needed here due to the unusually dry period, and on the descent from Foel Fras it arrives. Nothing else to do but smile, because now this feels like I have been here before. Interestingly it feels like the weather is worse this time. However, it is not the rain who does it, but the strong wind. In the guidebook the section after Bwlch y Ddeufaen is described as some fantastically bleak moorland, with the current weather I believe it to be even bleaker. Bleak is also the sea when it comes into view. It is a fascinating walk despite the inclement weather. The horses of the Carneddau are either running around or huddling together in the rain. After walking for a good while, the rain abates.

Nant Ffrancon.

When I travelled to Wales, I got the news of the wildfire outside Conwy. I heard that people had been evacuated from Capelulo as the fire was burning above at Pensychnant. There was a possibility that I would have to make a detour around the area, as the trail passes straight through the affected area. While on the way, however, I had heard that the fire was under control, and eventually that it was possible to walk through the area.

The Surgeon's Walk leading into Bethesda.

When I could see the wildfire area for the first time, there was something going up in flames, most likely a bush. Arriving at the burn area, there is an interesting divide. On one side of the track the vegetation is green and alive, on the other side all of the vegetation is burned. There are still fumes rising from the ground, probably due to the previous rain and lingering embers in the ground. The sheep does not appear to pay any heed; they walk carefree into the burn area. Power line poles lie charred and blackened on the ground. To the right of me, most of the landscape are burned and charcoal coloured. Small pockets of untouched fields are found, where I also can see sheep. The worst part of walking through the area is when the wind blows dust and ash in my face.

Approaching Carnedd Gwenllian, the views of the surrounding areas are diminishing.

Conwy Mountain is the last ascent on both The Snowdonia Way and The Cambria Way, although they take a different route over the hill. I remember that this is where I got the worst rain of all the days when I did the latter trail, but now I am on the fortunate side. Conwy Castle appears in view for the first time. The Cambria Way aim for the shortest route to the old castle, whereas The Snowdonia Way takes a scenic route by the way of the marine walk, approaching the castle from the Conwy River, but ends at the Statue of Llywelyn the Great at Lancaster Square.

Descent from Foel Fras.

Even though it rained at that time, I remember Conwy as a great place to end a wonderful trail, and I remember it as it was (without the rain). Having now finished The Snowdonia Way, I also feel that my hike of The Cambrian Way is finally complete. I stay at the YHA Hostel, a short walk outside of the town centre. The final day was a long day, so I am content to just spend the evening at the hostel, which is a laid-back place with a café. I repeat the pepperoni pizza and banoffee banana cake combo from YHA Pen-y-Pass.

A bleak view of the sea and northern parts of the Carneddau.

Last time I visited Conwy Castle, this time I paid a visit to the 16th century Plas Mawr (Great Hall), apparently the largest surviving Elizabethan town house in Britain. Very interesting, especially some of the figures that features in the ornate walls of its interior, and a superior view of the castle from its tower. The Conwy Town Walls are great way to view the town from above, but a section of the walls is now temporary closed. I am fascinated by the section of idols on the northern town wall, belonging to the St. Michael and All Angels' Catholic Church, as some of they appear to be almost regrown with vegetation. For a different shopping experience visit The Knight Shop. I also take my time to visit Llandudno to take the small tramway up to the Great Orme (the Great Worm?), viewing Conwy and the Eryri National Park from its summit before walking back down to Llandudno.

Walking through the remnants of the Pensychnant wildfire, the track a clear barrier.

I celebrate completing The Snowdonia Way with a good dinner at the Erskine Arms. I have had some great days of hiking on the trail, although there was sometimes where my feet were bugging me. I might repeat myself, but one thing that has always fascinated me about hiking in Britain is that even though you are not very high up, you are still walking in a very open landscape. And hiking in an open landscape is what I usually enjoy the most, whether it be undulating grassy hills, bleak desolate moorlands or jugged ridgelines that offers stunning views on its sides. With the exception of the last day, I had such good weather this time that I felt like a spoiled child. The weather also fuelled my biggest regret, the decision not to camp.

More burned scenery from the Pensychnant wildfire.

There is little doubt that The Snowdonia Way passes through some of the finest scenery Wales has to offer, especially hiking wise. Although I had decided to hike the mountain route, I feel a certain reservation that the original route feels more like a natural trail, while the high route slightly feels like being an extension of the original route done afterwards. As the trail shares a lot of the same routes as The Cambrian Way, there was no escaping hiking down the memory lane. I felt a great sense of joy when I came to places or paths that I recognised from before. Eleven days of great hiking on The Snowdonia Way. I might come back to do the original route.

Conwy with the castle and St Mary’s Church as seen from Plas Mawr.

The Snowdonia Way:
- part 1: Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd.
- part 2: Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass.
- part 3: Pen-y-Pass - Conwy.

Wikiloc:
- stage 9: Pen-y-Pass - Capel Curig.
- stage 10: Capel Curig - Tyn-y-Maes.
- stage 11: Tyn-y-Maes - Conwy.

The Snowdonia Way (part 2): Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass

The Snowdonia Way, from Machynlleth to Conwy.
15th of July to 25th of July 2026.
Distance: 313.7km. 11 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-snowdonia-way-2026-276744781.

This is the second part of my series of my hike on The Snowdonia Way, mountain route. In the first part I wrote about the walk from Machynlleth to Trawsfynydd, here is the next part in the series.

Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass
Distance: 107.7km. 4 days.

The footbridge over Llyn Trawsfynydd has been closed since 2022, apparently due to safety concerns, so hikers on The Snowdonia Way have to walk around on the road instead. Thankfully there is a pavement next to the busiest road, and it is not too long of a detour either.

View of the ascent of Y Garn.

As expected there is no sign that the Rhinogau fire has spread, so it poses no problem in terms of doing the mountain route, although the smoke from the fire is still clearly visible. I would not be surprised if the marshy area the trail passes over towards Craig Ddrwg would be one of the boggiest sections of The Snowdonia Way in normal conditions. Even in the currently very dry condition there are sections that are very wet. Almost in the middle of the marsh there is a house, and the mostly faint path goes straight past it, but I doubt anyone is using it anymore.

Descent from Y Garn, the path is just a line on a map, haze from the nearby wildfire.

On the climb up to Craig Ddrwg I am back at The Cambrian Way again. Up at the ridge you are in some ways required to make your own way, although there are paths, but the ones that are might be faint. Remnants of old manganese mines can be found up here. Speaking of the highest summit of this stage, Moel Ysgyfarnogod, I cannot help but think of the French comic Iznogoud, about the Grand Vizier of the Caliphate of Baghdad that constantly conspires to replace the current Caliph. It is said to be a place where one cannot expect to meet many others, but at the top I have a pleasant conversation with an old gentleman from London and a German woman having moved here. The descent is another make your own way.

Looking back towards Y Garn in an area that feels relatively remote.

Having found no accommodation in Penrhyndeudraeth, I had ended up getting a room at The Grapes Hotel in Maentwrog. In order to not walk on the road, and the stage between Trawsfynydd and Penrhyndeudraeth on the mountain route being one of the shortest, I had decided to walk to Maentwrog by combining the low-level route and then The Cambrian Way. Walking back up towards Llyn Trawsfynydd the section going next to the Llyn Tecwyn Uchaf lake is nice, but then there is a section of totally incomprehensible route laying, where the path just disappears. Instead I find myself pushing through thick brushes and scrub, which hides the thorn bushes in its midst. Ironically, I have to put on my shell pants as I am bleeding from both my ankles. A part of this section would be really boggy in normal conditions as well. Emerging, I abandon the rest of my plan as I do not know the state of the rest of the trail leading up to Llyn Trawsfynydd and instead finds a footpath that brings me down to the road. The footpath is nice, going down through a part of the Celtic rainforest in the area.

Smoke still rising from the Rhinogau fire.

In The Grapes Hotel everything is about the World Cup final between Spain and Argentina, where the Spaniards are there to kick the ball, whereas the Argentineans instead are there to kick the opponents.

The closed footbridge over Llyn Trawsfynydd.

I return to the trail by the road. From Penrhyndeudraeth, The Snowdonia Way makes it way up to one of the most interestingly and splendid landscapes of the trail. The trail goes through woods, past scenic villages like Rhyd and pleasant open hillsides before beginning the grassy ascent of Moelwyn Mawr. The trail actually climbs over the false crest of Craigysgafn, but I find it more interesting to walk on the remains of an old mine track going below instead, from where there is an easy climb up afterwards to rejoin the trail. Above me a man is asking his dog to please wait for some humans, funny.

Walking through a marshy land before climbing up to Crag Ddrwg and Moel Ysgyfarnogod.

Views are extensive from the summit of Moelwyn Mawr, one of the peaks giving name to the area, Moelwynion, with Yr Wyddfa now clearly visible wearing a white hat of clouds. Below are the residues of the Rhosydd slate mines and quarries being equally visible. Among the ruins one can find old mills, barracks, an incline winding house (that actually forms a kind of gate the walkers pass through) and other houses associated with the operation. The life at the barracks were supposedly appalling with bad air ventilation and mattresses filled with lice. Walking through the area in these days, one can for sure wonder how life and work must have been up here in those days. Spoil tips are everywhere and at one time the path appear to descend down between two of them. At the bottom, there is a gaping hole that might be the entrance to or exit of one of the old mines, with all the ground covered by water. How far in will you dare to go (or get)?

At the top of Craig Ddrwg, an area that contains few paths, Rhinogau fire in the background.

On the way to the distinctly shaped peak with its medieval name, Cnicht, the path is again faint, passing by the beautiful Llyn Cwm-corsiog lake. If at the point where the trail turns southwards towards Cnicht, one instead turns northwards one can rejoin both the high- and low-level routes of The Snowdonia Way at the Bwlch y Rhediad pass. This means bypassing Beddgelert and even Yr Wyddfa on the mountain route. Which I do not plan to do, so I crack on towards the lovely shaped ridge leading up to the summit of Cnicht. When I did The Cambrian Way, I forgot to heed the advice of climbing down from the summit on the left side and instead went down the right side. It led to a section that was a bit iffy, but I got down. The left side is still steep and involves some scrambling. However, I am glad it had not been raining both now and back then.

View from the descent of Moel Ysgyfarnogod, with the Moelwynion and Yr Wyddfa in the background.

Beddgelert is reached after a wonderful walk next to the Afon Glaslyn through the Pass of Aberglaslyn, where one walk next to the river on an almost carved out path in the stone. Beddgelert got its name from the grave of the dog Gelert, who was killed by his master Llewelyn the Great when he believed the dog had killed his son when he came home from hunting. However, afterwards he found his baby unarmed besides the body of a dead wolf, and realised that the dog had instead protected his son. In remorse he built a memorial to his dog. However good the story is, it was apparently made up the manager of the Royal Oak Hotel in the 18th century. Beddgelert is a nice little town with all the amenities hikers needs.

Old mining track beneath Craigysgafn on the climb up towards Moelwyn Mawr.

Waking up to nice sunny weather outside feels so good, especially when I remember so clearly the horrible weather that I woke up to on my previous outing here. It is time to filling in the first missing piece of my Cambrian Way hike. It is a beautiful scenery on the way up, and people seem to know that, as the many waterfalls and small ponds in the Afon Cwm Llan river are teeming with people. Both The Cambrian Way and The Snowdonia Way make use of the Watkin Path in the beginning, but leaves it at the top of all the waterfalls when the path levels out. Once on the south ridge of Yr Wyddfa, the path is a little bit tricky at times, but the view up towards the summit is wonderful, with clouds breaking against the western side and only air breaking against the eastern side.

Ruin of an old mill at the Rhosydd Quarry, Cnicht in the background.

Arriving at the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) might be a little bit of a shock to the system, depending on the time, especially when you have walked almost alone meeting very few other hikers most of the time. Being the highest mountain in Wales, and there is actually a railway going up to the top, it is no surprise that it is a bit crowded. More funny is it that there is a queue to get to the highest point. I have time enough, so I might just join the game. After touching the top, I find a quiet spot a bit down from the summit where I have my lunch, and taking in the splendid views. People on the Pyg Track looks like ants going up and down. Then I go for a beer at the café, for why not? I make an easy climb of Garnedd Ugain, watching the little train huff and puff by, then following the distinct Pyg Track down to the youth hostel at Pen-y-Pass, where I will stay for two nights.

Llyn Cwm-corsiog lake in the Moelwynion.

If one is doing the low-level route of The Snowdonia Way, but wants to climb Yr Wyddfa on the way, it is easily done by hiking from Beddgelert to Pen-y-Pass, and then walk from there to Dolwyddelan using the mountain route at first, which will join the low-level route at Hafod Rhisgl.

Walking next to the Afon Glaslyn en route to Beddgelert.

The one stage that remained for me to complete The Cambrian Way, was now the route between Pen-y-Pass and Llyn Ogwen crossing over the Glyderau. The Snowdonia Way also crosses over the Glyderau, but makes a more thorough traverse of the ridge from Capel Curig to Bethesda. The mountains are covered in clouds when I begin the climb up, but it is a nice change after all the sunny days. Higher up, I can only see the whiteness of the clouds behind me, but with the summit of Yr Wyddfa in a small window between them. It lingers there in its tiny window all the way up to Glyder Fawr with its lunar landscape.

In the woods at the beginning of the Watkin Path.

Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach sounds to me like something that glides away, but in fact Glyder means heap of stones. And heaps of stone are what the landscape at the top looks like, crowned with spiky, jutting and pointed stones sticking up. It is a fascinating landscape to walk through, even so with the low clouds. From above, I can look down at the lakes and valley below, faint through the clouds, at one time visible, shortly after not. Then all clouds disperse, and everything is revealed. The Cantilever stones do not tip over when I am standing at its tip, but it is easy to tip over going down the steepest path from the Glyderau towards Tryfan (The Cambrian Way is following a less steep way down thankfully).

The Watkin Path Waterfall and adjacent ruins.

Walking down from the Tryfan junction, a man above me kindly asks his dog not to walk down the mountain on its own. I believe it to be the same man, and dog, from Moelwyn Mawr. The dog, however, does not appear to pay any heed to what he says, and I eventually have to block its path down until he can pick the dog up, funny.

View south from Yr Wyddfa, notice how the clouds are breaking against the west side of the south ridge.

I make a short detour up to Llyn Idwal before heading down to the visitor centre at Llyn Ogwen, finally filling in the last missing piece from my Cambrian Way hike. It feels good, like finding the last piece of a puzzle after having looked after it for a long time. While having lunch at the visitor centre, three fighter planes scream through the valley, turning 90 degrees as they curve around the bends in the valley, the after-sound cracking.

View from Yr Wyddfa, Pig Track and the Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw lakes below.

Getting back to Pen-y-Pass, I could either walk back the same way, or make another route over the Glyderau, but that would mean more of the same, not to forget that I would be crossing over again later on The Snowdonia Way. Instead, I opted for seeing more of the surrounding landscape that I had not seen. From Llyn Ogwen, I could follow the main route of The Snowdonia Way down to Capel Curig. This section of the trail is going on a broad track, so it is easy to walk on, with just as easy views for the eyes, taking in the Ogwen Valley with Tryfan and Pen Yr Ole Wen as a backdrop. From Capel Curig, I had on my map found paths that could take me above the Llynau Mymbyr lake, but had been warned that they might be overgrown. The path I found was initially nice, but at one point I missed a junction and instead ended up on the road.

Path to the Glyderau, Yr Wyddfa in the clouds behind.

Before returning to Pen-y-Pass I stop for a beer at the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel, not knowing anything about its history. The interior of the hotel is very rustic, which I like, and I am welcomed to take a closer look as the hostess proudly informs me that this is where Edmund Hillary and his team stayed at when they were practicing for the ascent of Everest.

Yr Wyddfa from Glyder Fawr.

Article continues in the next part (Pen-y-Pass to Conwy).

The Snowdonia Way:
- part 1: Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd.
- part 2: Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass.
- part 3: Pen-y-Pass - Conwy.

Wikiloc:
- stage 5: Trawsfynydd - Maentwrog.
- stage 6: Maentwrog - Beddgelert.
- stage 7: Beddgelert - Pen-y-Pass.
- stage 8: Pen-y-Pass - Llyn Ogwen - Pen-y-Pass.

The Snowdonia Way (part 1): Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd

The Snowdonia Way, from Machynlleth to Conwy.
15th of July to 25th of July 2026.
Distance: 313.7km. 11 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/the-snowdonia-way-2026-276744781.

This is the first part of a series about my hike on The Snowdonia Way, mountain route. One disclaimer, photos I select for the series will be evenly distributed among the various parts, meaning a part may contain photos from another part in the series.

Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd
Distance: 124.6km. 4 days.

Three years ago I did The Cambrian Way, walking through the Welsh heartland from Cardiff to Conwy. That I did a complete thru-hike is unfortunately not something that I can say with cross my heart and fingers, because I had to skip the stages crossing over Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) and the Glyderau due to some exceptionally horrendous weather. In other words, I had some unfinished business in Wales.

Machynlleth, The Snowdonia Way starts from the old town clock from 1874 in the centre of the town.

This summer I decided to go back to wrap things up, as I had got my eye on another long distance trail that would make it possible to combine with what I had remaining of The Cambrian Way. From Machynlleth, The Snowdonia Way also makes its way through a Welsh heartland, Snowdonia or Eryri as it is called in its native tongue.

Looking back from the climb up towards Tarren Hendre.

The main route is for the most part keeping to the valleys, although that does not mean it is without its ascents. In addition, an alternative mountain route has also been devised, where the route instead is climbing over the mountains surrounding the main route. The low-level route runs at about 156 kilometres, whereas the high-level clocks in at 196 kilometres and with a considerably greater degree of accumulated altitude meters.

At the top below Tarren Hendre, an undulating ridge towards Tarren Cwm-ffernal.

The mountain route is at times very often intersecting with The Cambrian Way, so there was a certain incentive to do the low-level main route in order to see new landscapes, but the higher ground still got the better of me.

View from the descent from Tarren Hendre, Cadair Idris in the background.

Machynlleth is a nice little market town located at the southern edge of the Eryri National Park, from where its old clock tower marks the beginning of the trail. The town is known for having been the seat of the Welsh Parliament of Owain Glyndŵr. Machynlleth is also known for the low-level training ground for fast flying planes, where fighter planes among others are flying at high speed through the valleys between the mountains, known as the Machynlleth Loop.

Leaving Abergynolwyn, The Snowdonia Way goes on a lovely path next to the Afon Dysynni river.

The trail has been devised in such a way that hikers can change between the high and low level routes for most of the stages, but not on the first. From Machynlleth, the main route heads towards Dolgellau, whereas I set forth in the direction of the village of Abergynolwyn, splitting the hike to Dolgellau between the peaks of Tarren Hendre and Cadair Idris.

Looking down towards Llanfihangel-y-Pennant from the climb up towards Cadair Idris.

Tarren Hendre might not be considered amongst the most prominent peaks of the trail, but it is a decent climb on a first day of a long distance hike. Especially given the rather unnatural high temperature, for it is hot. The grassy peak at 633m is reached after an initial climb up from Machynlleth, where one can hum along to the tunes of Bron-y-Aur by Led Zeppelin, followed by a descent before the final climb begins. All pleasant walking for most of the time. The undulating grassy ridge beckoned me to do a detour to the top of Tarren Cwm-ffernal with views of the sea.

Magnificent view from the top of the Pony Path, with Y Garn clearly visible and Yr Wyddfa in the horizon.

For this hike, I have preferred staying at accommodations instead of camping, given my memory of the rainy days on The Cambrian Way in mind. As would be told over the course of these articles, however, I could not have had more ideal conditions for camping due to the dry weather.

Walking down next to the Arthog waterfalls.

When I hiked The Cambrian Way, I had crossed over Cadair Idris in horrendous weather, but I had such a nice time when I finally arrived in Barmouth that I wanted to visit the seaside town again. However, opting to split the stage to Dolgellau in two also meant climbing up to the chair of Idris (Penygadair) twice, but with the beautiful weather it was worth it. Detouring from The Snowdonia Way, I made use of The Cambrian Way most of the way to Barmouth. However, I felt more tired than expected upon arriving, so although the evening was nice, I also felt that I did not get the most out of the detour revisit. The number of seagulls and their activities in the town were still just as prominent, however.

Barmouth carved head.

Walking over Cadair Idris in the now clear weather is just a perfect picture of how different hiking is when in clear conditions or when it is low visibility like I had the last time. Standing at the summit of Penygadair that time, I had no idea of how close the drop of the cliff face was. I could have been standing in the middle of a huge grassy expanse for all I knew, except that I was not. Although I had got some faint views back then, I am happy to see how the views really are, with Barmouth and the Mawddach estuary clearly visible and Yr Wyddfa in the horizon. The descent from Gau Graig is barely a path where the ground is hidden by the vegetation making slow progress going down as I cannot trust where I put my feet, still mesmerised that I climbed up there in the bad weather.

Crossing over the Mawddach Estuary on the wooden walkway of the Barmouth Bridge, with a view of Cadair Idris in the background.

Why there was not any accommodation available in Dolgellau became quite obvious when I arrived. There is a music festival in the town, Sesiwn Fawr, and the streets are crowded with people and the sounds of music from everywhere. I grab a coke and some beers, but seeing that I am tired after a long day of hiking, I am content to escape to my guesthouse in Dolgun Uchaf about twenty minutes outside of the town. It is a quiet place, and my room is very nice, so I just eat a loaded fries from one of the food and drink stalls, go to a food store to buy a little bit more food and snacks for the evening and go to my room and rest.

View from the summit of Cadair Idris, Penygadair, Llyn y Gader below.

Wales are experiencing an unusual dry and hot summer, severely manifested by several wildfires. From the summit of Y Garn, I could clearly smell the smokes from the nearby fire in the Rhinogau mountains. Y Garn is reached after a wonderful hike through woods, along a sublime precipice walk with views of the estuary and sea, and a climb both steep and gentle at times. All with the dominant eyes of Cadair Idris in the background. Windy at the summit.

Cadair Idris.

The descent from Y Garn is another route where a path is just a line on a map. Brackens are eventually engulfing me at all sides, and no respite is found on the cumbersome walk next to a stone fence. However, the ruins of a mountain farm provide serenity and shelter from wind as a nice place for having lunch. The upside of this is that I feel that I am in a rare remote area. The path is improving after the tranquil ruins. Who worked or lived here in the distant past?

In Dolgellau.

Towards Trawsfynydd, I walk with a feeling of both sadness and joy. Sad for the views of Rhinog Fawr and Rhinog Fach in flames, remembering that wonderful stage of The Cambrian Way, now blackened. Joyful for the otherwise nice views, and for seeing that the fire will not threaten the next day of my hike going over Moel Ysgyfarnogod. It is a nice walk to Trawsfynydd from where the high and low level routes meet, but confusion at the end lead me to take the quiet road instead of through the farmland where the trail actually goes. I stay at a nice bunkhouse and enjoy a quiet evening at the local pub, which becomes livelier when festival goers return from Dolgellau. Three Belgian women doing the low-level route also ended up here, having found no place to stay in Dolgellau like me.

New Precipice Walk after Dolgellau, with a view of the Mawddach Estuary in the background.

Article continues in the next part (Trawsfynydd to Pen-y-Pass).

The Snowdonia Way:
- part 1: Machynlleth - Trawsfynydd.
- part 2: Trawsfynydd - Pen-y-Pass.
- part 3: Pen-y-Pass - Conwy.

Wikiloc:
- stage 1: Machynlleth - Tal-y-Llyn.
- stage 2: Tal-y-Llyn - Barmouth.
- stage 3: Barmouth - Dolgun Uchaf.
- stage 4: Dolgun Uchaf - Trawsfynydd.