The Kozanji temple in Tanabe.
From Kiiji to Kohechi
It all started with what originally caused the chain to break, the section of Nakahechi between Tanabe and Takijiri-oji after finishing the Kiiji, where I had estimated the necessary time based on a wrong distance. I still have no idea where I got the distance that I operated on from.
A rainy day at Chikatsuyu.
Heavy rain was forecast and then with no possibility of reaching my accommodation for the night in proper time by walking, I made the easy decision to take the bus instead. I was to walk this section again at a later time anway, so I would not miss out on anything as well. It provided me with some time to explore both the Tokei-jinja shrine and Kozanji temple in Tanabe that I had not got the day before.
Akagi-goe. On the Nakahechi, walking towards the Hosshinmon-oji shrine and the Akagi-goe junction.
I spent the night at Guesthouse Housen just outside of Chikatsuyu, which has a rule of only accommodate one booking at a time. It somehow made me feel that I was holding up places for others given that the other rooms was then unoccupied, but on the other hand the food was plenty and delicious.
Akagi-goe. View from the path.
From there I took the bus to Hosshinmon-oji and walked a section of the Nakahechi backwards to the Akagi-goe junction, giving me a taste of the trail. Walking the Akagi-goe path to Yunomine Onsen was a part of my original plan, a quite nice path with some obstructed views of the surrounding mountains. With the ridgewalk at the top being the best part. Then from the special little village tucked inside a deep valley, famous for its hot springs, I hiked the Dainichi-goe path to Hongu, also as planned.
Akagi-goe. Nabeware Jizo.
Akagi-goe. Walking on what seems like a danchiku section.
From Kohechi to Ohechi
At the time when I finished Kohechi by walking the Choisimichi down to Kudoyama, I had finally made up my mind to not hike the Omine Okugakemichi, given the mistakes that I had made and that I felt mentally tired. The five days that I planned for the route, suddenly felt unsure. I spent the evening in Hashimoto as planned, given the good availability of supermarkets nearby in order to buy supplies for the hike.
Yunomine Onsen. Notice the square wooden enclosure, that is where they boil the eggs in the hot water.
In Hashimoto, I rearranged my plan for the first time, it would change again later. From there I took the train to Wakayama and then to Tanabe. In the afternoon I had enough time to walk the short section of the Nakahechi to Inabane-oji, thus amending the problem I would get later.
Dainichi-goe. Tsukimigaoka shrine.
From Ohechi to Iseji
One thing I probably had done right when I originally planned for this hike was to book two nights at Yunomine Onsen after Omine Ogukagemichi, having a rest day afterwards would be good. However, I had now to honour that booking, so after finishing Ohechi at Kumano Nachi Taisha, I made my way to Yunomine Onsen by taking the bus to Watarase Onsen and walking from there to my destined onsen.
Omine Okugakemichi. A wonderful view of Hongu, Ōyunohara and the Otorii gate from the Dai saibara tenbo dai viewpoint.
Omine Okugakemichi
I had a day at my disposal and what better way to use it than getting a glimpse of what I had missed out on. Omine Okugakemichi is considered the hardest of the routes, although it is not technically considered one of the Kumano Kodo routes. Here we are talking about around 100km of demanding hiking over the mountains from Yoshino to Kumano Hongu Taisha, which also involves a lot of scrambling. You have to carry all your own food and in order to be able to spend the night the whole way you have to bring camping gear. Incidentally, this is the only one of the routes that is still used for religious purposes, as the monks conduct ascetic training on it (shugendo). A good read and resource for the Omine Okugakemichi can be found here: https://randomwire.com/japan/kumano-kodo/omine-okugake/.
Omine Okugakemichi. On the trail.
Omine Okugakemichi. Cemetery and shrine at the Yamazai-toge pass.
From Yunomine Onsen, I walked the Dainichi-goe route again before venturing up into the hills, woods and mountains after crossing over the bridge to the south of Hongu. This section of the Omine Okugakemichi is probably not the most exciting compared to the other sections, but it was still nice to feel that I had at least done a bit of it. I walked past warnings of Asian giant hornets on paths that resembled much the same as those I had walked on previously on the Kumano Kodo. On the way, there is an amazing viewpoint overlooking Hongu and its giant Otorii.
Omine Okugakemichi.
Tsubo-yu in Yunomine Onsen, also on the UNESCO world heritage list, a very old hot spring you can get private access to for a limited time. It is also a small leap of faith.
I turned back after reaching the summit of Daikoku Tenjindake, a small insignificant top at only 573.6m with no views at all. At the Yamazai-toge pass with its small shrine, stupa and Jizo-statues, I opted for a return to Hongu by the road. Back in Yunomine Onsen, I took a bath in Tsubo-yu, which is an 1800-year-old hot spring also on the UNESCO list. There is also a possibility to boil your own eggs here in the hot springs.
Kumano Gawa. Embarking on the traditional boat trip on the Kumano-gawa river, inclement weather awaits the pilgrims on the boats.
Kumano Gawa
I returned to the fold by taking the traditional boat ride on the Kumano Gawa river to Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Shingu, from where I was to start my adventure on the Iseji from the day after. It was a very wet experience, as heavy rain incessantly lashed at us, but it did not take away the good experience of it, only a couple of good photo opportunities as I did not want to take out either my camera or phone.
Kumano Gawa. On the traditional boat ride.
From Iseji to Nakahechi
From Shingu and Kumano Hayatama Taisha I walked Iseji returning to Hongu and Kumano Hongu Taisha yet again, taking the inland route from Kumano. I had been lucky and got a bed in a dormitory at the Kumano Backpackers, originally planned to take the bus to Tanabe after arriving in Hongu the same day. I then got on the bus the next day, returning to Inabane-oji to make the remaining section to Takijiri-oji on another rainy day.
Kakenukemichi. The path disappearing into the mist and woods.
From Nakahechi to Iseji
Originally the plan was to walk the Iseji in reverse to Ise, but when I had landed on a final plan, I was to start from Ise instead. Getting there was easy, taking the train from Shingu. In the meantime, as I had some time available again due to pre-booked accommodations, I ventured out to visit other sites and routes related to Kumano Kodo.
Kakenukemichi. View from below the Myohosan Amida-ji temple.
Kakenukemichi. Myohosan Amida-ji temple.
Kakenukemichi
This is a path that meanders its way above the sacred site of the Kumano Nachi Taisha. Its main place of worship is the Myohosan Amida-ji temple halfway up to the top of Myozandake mountain. It can be done as an extension of the Nakahechi if one wishes to do so, as the path goes in a loop from the Nachi Kogen park to a junction just above the grand shrine.
Kakenukemichi. The path leading up to the Okunion of the Myohosan Amida-ji temple.
Mist are lying low over the mountains as I walk it, with occasional sprinkles of rain on the way. At some times, I wonder whether I am on the right way, seeing the scarce path disappear into the woods. A little foreboding, but mysterious at the same time. There are waymarks, but not many of them.
Kamikura-jinja. The steep stairs leading up to the shrine.
Despite the low clouds and sombre weather, I get a brief but nice glimpse of the landscape below from a viewpoint just before the scenic Myohosan Amida-ja temple. The temple grounds are worth exploring before climbing further up towards the Okunoin, and then keep on a narrow path until you arrive at the Nachi Kogen park, where I see walkers on the Nakahechi emerge from the trees wet from the rain.
Kamikura-jinja shrine.
Kamikura-jinja
Prior to traveling to Ise, I visited the Kamikura-jinja in Shingu. This is an important shrine in the history of the Kumano Kodo as it is situated on a mountain where according to the myths the gods first descended to earth, Gongen-yama. To get there one must climb 538 stairs of stone, ending at the Gotobiki-iwa sacred rock. The shrine offers great views over Shingu. On February 6 every year the Oto Matsuri festival is being held, where men holding lit torches are running down the steep stairs.
Kamikura-jinja. Shrine and view.
Kamikura-jinja. View of Shingu.
Shingu Inosawa Ukishima Shokubutsu Gunraku
Returning from Kamikura-jinja I came across this floating island in the middle of Shingu, more normally known as Ukishima-no Mori. An island that is made up of peat and is about 5000 square meters big containing several amphibius plants. One can walk through the island on an exciting board walk, but beware not to go off that beaten path, remember that there is water underneath all that peat.
Ukishima floating island.
Kumano Kodo
Kumano Kodo is recommended if you are in Japan and also want to spend a few days of hiking in historical and natural surroundings. If you are one of those who are looking for more of a social aspect when hiking, the Nakahechi route is the one to choose, for those looking for a slightly bigger challenge you can choose Kohechi. In overall, Iseji became my favourite route that offer more of an adventure for those that wants that. And then there is the Kiiji and Ohechi, where Ohechi has some wonderful sections, but Kiiji is for those having to do them all.
Ukishima floating island. Boardwalk, do not try to walk outside of it.