Distance: 33.6km (99.1km).
This morning I struggle to get up, but eventually get up to a later start than I wanted. Ate breakfast at the same spot next to the river.
Asbjørnsåe.
Although the forest scenery is nice, the walk following the Asbjørnsåe river is slightly frustrating at times. Contrary to the invisible path I walked yesterday, here there are several tracks visible, but instead the waymarks are more or less invisible. And the small square wooden waymarks look nice, but are sometimes a little indiscernible in the terrain. On the upside, it will not make you go the wrong way, as all the tracks apparently leads in the same way path (remember you are to cross over Asbjørnsåe at the Geitbrua bridge), but you might not walk the exact course of the pilgrim.
Pines and bogs in Asbjørnsdalen.
Rånåkollen is a distinct landscape feature on this part of the walk. It more or less towers above your left as you walk with the river on one side and the pines and bogs on the other. Hidden behind the hill lies the ski resort area of Bjorli, where if needed accommodation can be found. Small waterfalls are also passed by.
On a tiny path at Valldalsleden.
From Rånå the walk gives the distinct appearance of being the transition from the mountains to lower woodlands and valley scenery. I walk down what I guess would be a ski track in the winter. A short stint on a road before I follow a pleasant wide track for a time before finally arriving at a dry and dusty gravel road.
Kvernhusfossen.
The gravel road takes me past the local airstrip, which provides more interest than the walk on the road itself. Planes are at given intervals taking off and landing, in between the sky becomes populated with parachutes in various colours. I am thankful there are few cars passing by me as I walk, they would have lifted up a lot of dust. The thought makes my mouth go dry by imagination. There is a wooden shelter, which also provides shelter from the gravel road, where I feel the need to brew some coffee.
Rånåkollen.
Valldalsleden crosses the busy E136 road and climbs up on the other side of the valley. The Einbu farms are also associated with Olav den Hellige as he should have spent a night here during new years eve between 1028 and 29. Further up a short detour can bring you to a small hill with a nice view of the valley and a curious mark in the rock that is said to be the hoof of Olav den Hellige’s horse (hidden underneath a stone). The name of the hill is St. Olavsberget.
Looking back while walking from Rånå.
Going down on what will be a ski track in the winter.
Then the pilgrim path follows a track that makes me grateful that it has been a couple of dry days. Because if the previous days would have been wet, the path would be really muddy and squelchy. It is also layered with cow dung, which would have added a distasteful ingredient to the mud. It is hard walking.
The most interesting part when walking on the dusty Brekkelivegen, an airplane flying low over the road.
Put on a happy face.
At a small pond, the pilgrim path directs me to walk around the water on a muddy path, only to arrive back at the same track that I left before. The detour around the pond feels pointless and unnecessary due to the amount of mud now attached to my hiking boots.
Ascent near the Einbu farms.
Down at the E136 road again, the waymarking and the guidebook causes me some confusion. According to the guidebook, I am to cross the road and walk on a track close by, but not right next to the road. There are however no waymarks to be seen. I have also a map with me, and there is no apparent path visible on it that matches the map in the guidebook. Grumbling, I decide to follow the pavement.
St. Olavsberget with views.
Can you spot the hoof mark? Allegedly this is where the horse of Olav den Hellige struck its hoof into the rock at St. Olavsberget.
Outside Lesjaskog church there is an interesting monument to Sigurd Einbu, an astronomer. Here there is also a food store, I have no need for more food, although a couple of beers for the evening would be nice to be honest.
Glad I was walking during some hot and dry days, this unnecessary detour around this little pond would have been totally cumbersome had it been raining.
The pilgrimage continues on a paved surface, on the Øverbygdsvegen road, but that is somewhat atoned for by the nice views of the valley. After the last farm, the route enters a footpath, but I struggle a bit to find it as I feel confused by walking to close to a private property.
Monument to the astronomer Sigur Einbu.
On the way down, the pilgrim path takes me past the old mines of Vinngruvene, where iron malm was extracted. The remnants of the mines are now fenced in, and the mines itself filled with water.
Looking towards Lesjaskogsvatnet from Øverbygdsvegen.
My hand start itching. Somehow, an insect must have stung or bit me, but I have never felt anything. Weird. Then my hand becomes swollen. I take a Zyrtec in case it is an allergic reaction.
Skottåi, waterfall next to the Øverbygdsvegen road.
One thing is clear when I walk through the area around the Lesjaskogsvatnet lake, it is an area dominated by cabins. On the positive side, it is mostly only apparent in the first part, the cabins become scarce later on. I actually enjoy walking on this path next to the lake.
Nedre Vindgrua, all covered by water.
There is a nice little shelter with a good view of the lake that would be a nice place for the evening, but there is little space for my tent there and there is also a field and a house with people nearby. So, I just grab some minutes of rest there to take in the scenery before I move on.
Valldalsleden going next to Lesjaskogsvatnet.
To find my campsite for the night, I locate a suitable spot on my map. It is a good place out on a promontory in the lake, secluded from the cabins, tracks and paths, but I had to venture off the path to get there. Evening is quiet with a calmness over the lake, despite the clouds drifting over the mountains in the horizon.
Lesjaskogsvatnet.
This third day had more downsides to it than the first two days. Especially while walking on the dusty gravel track down in the valley and on the cumbersome manure track afterwards. Despite that and the weird insect bite, I had another good day on Valldalsleden. The waymarks could have been better on this section of the pilgrim path, there were some junctions where I had to take a certified guess as to where the path went.
Evening sun at Lesjaskogsvatnet.
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