Distance: 38.2km (137.3km).
First day where I have a given destination to walk to, I had yesterday decided to spend a night at Lesja to charge up the batteries for my camera. Then after sending some messages back and forth had got a cabin at Lesja Gjestgiveri.
On Valldalsleden through the forest near Lesjaskogsvatnet.
The beginning of the walk from my campsite next to the Lesjaskogsvatnet lake is similar to what I experienced yesterday, pleasant, but does not keep up the interest all the way to Lesjaverk. The waymarking is again incomplete at times.
A squirrel in the tree at Lesjaskogen.
At Lesjaverk there is a food store, but a little bit off the trail. Again, I have no real need to buy more food, but it is a good place to dispose of the trash I carry. And what about a cold ice-cream?
Lesjaverk church.
Lesjaverk kirke is not a big church, kind of secluded located in a clearing outside the woods. The pilgrim path goes into the forest from there, and now I feel a quiet calm about me again. Despite what one can see around the path, as there are bomb craters from the second world war to be found close to the path.
A bombcrater from the April days of 1940 next to the path in Lesjaskogen.
Skåpartjønna was a place I had in mind as a place to camp yesterday. Passing by the small pond now, I feel happy that I decided to put up my campsite where I did. There is almost no water in the pond, a dried-out waterbed that is interestingly colour-wise, but unappealing in terms of being a water source.
Valldalsleden going on the old king's road (Den Gamle Kongevegen) through Lesjaskogen.
Shortly after another water source dedicated to Olav den Hellige appear, Valtuva, this one covered by a small wooden structure. In 1029 (probably), the horse of Olav struck through the dry sand bringing water to his army and their horses. He blessed the water source and said that it should never run dry or be covered by any ice.
Not much water in Skåpartjønna.
Then the walk again changes to be a rather long walk on a little bit monotonous walk, going a gravel track through the forest at the bottom of the valley. The pilgrim path has now taken on a different character than its first days, and I like the variety in a way, but this section goes a long way with a feeling of seeing the same thing around me.
Olavskjelda at Valtuva, the source of Olav den Hellige.
It all becomes significantly better when I am close to the Lora river. Here the pilgrim path passes relatively straight through this beautiful area, but if you have time, you really should spend some of that time deviating from it. There are also information boards with maps of the area to be found here to provide an overview of what you can see.
Walking between fences at Viflaten.
Instead of following the pilgrim path as it goes steep down, I opt for following another path that goes on top of the steep crest of the side of the valley. I walk on a lovely path through this area that is also protected, which soon find me looking down at a winding path lined with a wooden guard rail leading down to the Lora river.
On the long Skråkklivegen / Stavheimsvegen gravel track.
At the river there is a great place with a wooden shelter overlooking the flowing water. A contraption can be found that can be used to get water from the river. I follow the track upwards bringing me to the Lorfossen waterfall. There are places you can get to that gives you a good overview of the waterfall, both from above and below. There also appear to be a sort of zipline over the river.
Footpath at Lorkverna. This is not on the pilgrim path, but a detour I opted to go instead.
Given its scenic location, the shelter is the perfect spot for my lunch. The path following the river downwards will then join Valldalsleden shortly before it crosses the river on a wooden bridge.
Lorfossen waterfall.
On the other side of the river lies Lorkverna. This is an old mill, which now serves more like an open-air museum. There is supposed to have been a mill here dating back as long as 1326 (‘Loro kuæn’), but the buildings standing here now might be from around 1800. Although rebuilt and restored by the local history team (Lesja Historielag).
Shelter next to the Lora river not very far from Lorfossen, a great place for having my lunch.
The buildings here include the mill, the home of the miller, a stable, a coal pit, a smithy, and a water canal. In terms of planning, I wish I had given more attention to the small detail in the guidebook that you actually can spend the night in the house that used to be the home of the miller. A very cosy little place. I would love to have spent the night here. If you walk Valldalsleden, I would advise you to try to fit in a night here in your plan.
The bridge over Lora and the old mill site of Lorkverna.
Problem occurs as no waymarks are found at Lorkverna, so after looking around, I do not see any one and continue on the path going closest to the river. It is a nice path, but eventually I conclude that I am no longer on the correct path. I walk back, but there are no waymarks giving me the direction I believe the path is going according to the guidebook. As the path next to the river was so nice, I decide I do not care and turn back again. It feels like the right choice.
Lorkverna.
The walk will eventually follow the Lora river and then as it blends into what becomes the Gudbrandsdalslågen river. Valldalsleden goes next to the river for a long time. Fishermen are out in the water trying their luck, but talking to some of them reveals that there has been little catch to get today. Too hot they believe.
Nebbkverna, remains of another mill.
It is nice and pleasant, but the distance spent next to the river also makes it a little bit repetitive. About 14k from Lorkverna, can I look up at Lesja Prestegard (rectory) and Lesja kyrkje with Lesja behind. On the side of the road, Valldalsleden is also passing by the location of the old church.
Valldalsleden going next to Gudbrandsdalslågen.
Upon booking my accommodation for the night, I had inquired about the closing time for the food store in Lesja. I was told it would be open to eight o’clock, but when I see the shop, it says six o’clock on the wall. My indignation soon turns to relief as it turns out the shop is still open, special opening hours during the summer.
Lesja in view.
With food and drinks for the evening secured, I locate my accommodation, Lesja Gjestgiveri. I have a cabin for myself, which is simple, but it has everything I need to prepare my food.
The location where the church in Lesja stood in old times.
A mixed day. I am content, but then again, I often find myself to be content when I am out on long walks. For all the walk that felt a bit repetitive today, like the gravel road before Lorkverna and the later part next to Gudbrandsdalslågen, was more than made up for with the visit to Lorkverna and its surrounding area.
Lesja church.
I relax at my cabin, a cold beer in my hand. Tomorrow I will finish the ‘official’ part of Valldalsleden, as I will join the Gudbrandsdalsleden path coming up from Oslo. With Dovre and its mountain scenery at my feet.
View from Lesja.
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