Seoraksan National Park, Baekdu Daegan, 2014.
Read about my walk on the trail here: Baekdu Daegan.
Showing posts with label South-Korea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South-Korea. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 18, 2025
A look back at the Baekdu Daegan: Seoraksan
In this post, I look back at a memorable moment from one of my earlier walks, this time the Baekdu Daegan in South-Korea. I hiked this trail in 2014 that in the last days took me through the stunning Seoraksan National Park.
Read about my walk on the trail here: Baekdu Daegan.
Read about my walk on the trail here: Baekdu Daegan.
Tuesday, June 30, 2015
Baekdudaegan: Useful information
I have here tried to provide some useful information about the Baekdudaegan trail, if you are interested in travelling to South-Korea to walk the trail, either part of it or whole. I will also try to update this page if I should remember more useful tips that it is nice to know about. Otherwise, if there is anything else you are wondering about, use the comments field and I will try to answer as good as I can.
When
The ideal times to hike the Baekdudaegan is mainly governed by the weather gods. In South-Korea there is often a lot of rain in the middle of the summer season, and at its peak in July. This makes the periods before and after the summer the most suitable to walk in. We are here talking about from the middle of May and from the end of August. That being said, you should not be hindered from walking in the summer months, you only have to take in account that you will probably encounter more bad weather underway.
It is not advised to walk the trail in the winter, and probably not doable in its entirety either. Then it will be extremely difficult at times to find the path, combined with the fact that many sections will be very dangerous when they are covered in snow and ice. The trails through the large national parks will also be closed in the late winter to early spring, usually from the second week in February to the first week in May. Deviations from these dates may occur.
A reason to walk in the springtime is to experience the blossoming of the flowers, plants and trees in the mountains, it is said to be especially beautiful when the azaleas are blossoming. There are large festivals in the mountains when this occurs, with the mountains all colored in pink. Sobaeksan and Seoraksan are among the places to be located in then. A reason to walk in the autumn is to experience the autumnal colors, when the leaves changes colors to vermilion fires.
Accommodation
Bringing a tent is not a necessity, but on some stages you will then have to estimate more time in finding places to spend the night at. You will then often have to hike down from the ridge to find places to stay at. Carrying a tent gives you larger flexibility. However, be aware that it is not permitted to camp in the national parks. Inside the parks you have to sleep in the cabins run by the Korea National Park Service. The stay has to be booked in advance, and before 10 o'clock in the morning on the same day. A stay at a cabin will usually cost between 5000 and 11000 won. You pay for a small place in a dormitory and you have to bring with you all you need to sleep in and what you need to cook food with, and food. Though, blankets can be rented and there are usually a small kiosk at the cabins, but the assortment of food items on sale are not very big.
Outside the national parks you will have more alternatives to choose from. Where staying the night in a minbak (homestay) is the most common and available, these are simple rooms being rented out. Often attached to a restaurant. Some of these may also prepare dinner and breakfast upon request. If you want to experience some genuine and real Korean culture, a stay in a minbak is highly recommended on the way, it is an excellent way to encounter the Korean hospitability. Other accommodation options includes motels (yeogwan), sanjangs (mountain villas, a more comfortable style of minbak) and pensions; but these are there fewer of directly on the trail.
Of the more special accommodation options, the ornamented pavilions, a so-called jeongja, should be mentioned. It is allowed to stay the night in these, after the 'regular' guests has left them for the night or evening. For a jeongja that is located inside a village it is customary to ask permission to stay the night at (from the village inhabitants). To sleep in a pavilion could be a special experience. Baekdudaegan provides several opportunites to do so. Another special option is to sleep in one of the temples that dot the trail, namely a temple stay, but this must be booked in advance (though you could be lucky).
Even though a tent provides a better flexibility, you have to be prepared that there won't be water available everywhere.
Food and provisioning
About whichever way you plan your route, about three days will be the longest amount of days you need to carry food with you for. And even within these days it will always be possible to leave the ridge for a nearby village where you can resupply.
Water
The water in the mountains of South-Korea are usually clean and unproblematic to drink. Water from sources that are closer to the civilization should be treated more carefully. The availability of water sources depends on what time of year you walk in, autumn is refered to as the dry season and the sources may often be dry or contain little water. Roger Shepherd's and Andrew Douch's guidebook (more about it later) contains gps coordinates for the water sources along the trail. The water sources are also marked on the maps you can get in South-Korea.
The largest distance on the trail where there are not any water sources are between Wonbangjae (on the stage between Daetjae and Baekbokryeong) and just before Daegwanryeong, about 50km. That being said, it might be possible to acquire some water from the rustic restaurant at Baekbokryeong if it is open (otherwise there is about 2.5km down to Baekbokryeong Swimteo from the pass). And at Dangmokryeong it is possible to ask for water (mul) at the farms that is located near the pass.
It is also wise to pay attention when you are filling water from creeks in the mountains, there are potentially lethal snakes in South-Korea and they are often found nearby water. I saw several snakes when I filled water.
Difficulty
The mountains in South-Korea are not the tallest ones in the world, and you are already on the highest point on the mainland when you are at the beginning of the trail, Cheonwangbong at 1915m. What the mountains are however, are exceedingly steep at times. And the trail gives no quarter, it usually charges the peaks straight on. Only exceptionally does the path goes on somewhat level ground.
There are several sections on the trail that requires some scrambling, where there will be ropes (of unknown origin) on the most exposed parts. In addition, staircases are also found, making it easier for hikers to climb up and down the most steep and inaccessible paths, these staircases and boardwalks also functions as protection for the path against erosion, tear and wear.
The most demanding sections on the Baekdudaegan are probably the descent from Daeyasan in Songnisan National Park, the passage through Gaegumeongbawi after Munjandae (also in Songnisan), the descent from Jeombongsan to Hangyeryeong (in Seoraksan) and the funky ridge over Mungyeong Saejae. Down from Daeyasan the trail goes very steep down one side of the peak with the aid of several ropes, concentration is required (if you choose to do the section, this part is in a closed section). Through Gaegumeongbawi (also in a closed section) the trail is offering both physical and navigational challenges, the same goes for the descent from Jeombongsan (also in a closed section). Over Mungyeong Saejae there are several parts where a fall could be fatal.
Maps and guidebooks
You can get maps of the whole trail in Seoul, I bought one set consisting of 24 maps. One of these maps does not weight a lot, but packed together they take up some space. The biggest problem with the maps are that all the names on the map are in Hangeul, the Korean written language. The trail is clear and evident on the maps, with arrows pointing where the direction is if you are going from south to north. In addition, it also contains time estimates between two points on the route. Water sources are marked on the map as blue circles with a star inside. The map also includes symbols for peaks, staircases, cliffs, helipads, altars, resting places (jeongjas, eateries), signposts, viewing points, tombs and more. Looking at all the height lines on the map, you get a good impression of how undulating Korea is.
Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch has written a very good guidebook for the trail, it can be bought from Hike Korea. The book contains a big section of practical information, together with a detailed description of the trail stage by stage. The descriptions of the stages contains height profiles for the stage, time estimates between milestones on the way (these match the times on the maps), information about accommodation, places to eat, water sources and available transport underways. All the names of the places, peaks, passes and so forth are given by both western and hangeul characters, this is useful since you can compare the names with those on maps and know where you are. The biggest problem with the guidebook is that it is a little bit heavy. This can be solved by reading thoroughly the practical information in advance, eventually take a picture of the pages, and then tear out the descriptions of the stages and only carry them with you (this could maybe feel a little bit like a sacrilege to do). Then you can also leave behind you the descriptions of the stage that you have completed.
Updates to the book and the trail are available at the following page: http://www.koreantrails.org/bddg-updates-changes. This page also contains an overview when the trails are being closed during winter.
Navigation
The Baekdudaegan trail is usually easy to follow, the trail will usually be located on the highest ridge you walk on and it will only rarely break off from the main ridge and cross to another ridge. Still be warned that it does so a couple of few places. The trail never crosses water, since you walk on what is essentially the watershed of Korea. If you come to a junction that is not marked in any away, Baekdudaegan will be the path that goes up to the highest hill nearby in the same direction you came down from. What is making it difficult is that the path often goes down among the trees and that you not always will be able to see the surrounding area.
The trail is not marked in the usual way, as you may be used to by official blazes or signs (like the red and white stripes of the GR trails). In the national parks there will be no markers / blazes on the trail, but there the path will usually be very clear and just as often surrounded by a fence, and signposts at each junction. There is very little chance of going in the wrong direction in the national parks.
Outside the national parks you will also find several signposts, but not as often as inside them. What is however the greatest aid in navigation here, is the hiking ribbons that former hikers has left behind them. These marks the trails and are often adorned with personal messages and information in addition. It is important to learn how to separate between the different ribbons, since Baekdudaegan is not the only trail in the country. The easiest is to look for the hangeul characters for Baekdudaegan: 백두대간. A little word of warning though, do not follow the ribbons without paying attention the where you are and go. Some hikers may be too eager to hang up ribbons, and also hang up ribbons marked with Baekdudaegan on the sidetrails that leads up to the Baekdudaegan. If you are situated on the highest point and there is a path continuing further, and in the same place there are some ribbons leading down from the path, check your map and the description in the guidebook, also check if there are some ribbons marked with 백두대간 on the trail that follows the path further and not downwards.
It is not allowed to put up ribbons in the national parks, and henceforth there will be less ribbons there as well as in the closed sections.
How to get to the start of the trail (Cheonwangbong)
The guidebook contains several options (three) on how to get to the summit of Cheonwangbong and the beginning of the Baekdudaegan. I chose the one option that was said to be the most practical one, to go from Jungsanri. To get there I took a train from Seoul til Jinju and then a local bus to Jungsanri. The train station in Jinju is situated outside the town, there goes busses to the town, but I took a taxi. You have to buy a ticket before you enter the bus, which can be bought from stall number 4 at the bus station, it is also the same number as the bus. From Jinju there is about 1 hour and 10 minutes to Jungsanri. Jungsanri is located up into the mountains and is also the turning point of the bus, which will drive back to Jinju again from there. The bus station is a large open place. You will find several stores and accommodations in Jungsanri.
From the bus station in Jungsanri there is a little bit of a walk up along the road until you get to another restaurant and minbak, as well as the Jirisan Visitor Centre. You will find the trail leading up to Cheonwangbong after crossing a bridge on the road leading up from the Jirisan Visitor Centre.
Closed sections
One reason that many may not see the Baekdudaegan as a true longdistance-trail, is due to the fact that there are several sections of the trail that are closed. These are closed to preserve the environment, both nature and wildlife inside of the closed areas, and you will be charged a fine if caught walking in one of them. Several of these areas are surveiled by cameras, but there is an ongoing debate whether these are active or not. Ufortunately, some of the most spectacular parts of the Baekdudaegan are located in the closed sections.
The closed sections of the trail will usually be fenced off by varying degrees. Along the roads, these are often blocked by tall fences and cameras, but up in the mountains or in the woods there will be signposts and fences that warns you that the trail ahead is closed. Whether you want to go the closed trails or follow the rules and go around is all up to you, I will not tell you what to do or take any responsibility for what you choose to do. The closed sections are also not so good marked. Some of the barriers are also cumbersome obstacles to pass.
The guidebook by Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch contains descriptions of where the trail is closed and alternative routes and ways to continue your hike.
Other useful things
Communication will probably be the biggest obstacle for many, but know that the Koreans are extremely friendly and hospitable. They will always try to help you in a way and seems to have an understanding that their language is difficult for people from the west. Be nice, glad and grateful and you will get a lot of smiles in return. Remember that kam-sha-ham-nida is the Korean word for thanks and cho-song-ham-nida is sorry. To greet a person you say annyong hoseyo.
If you plan to hitchhike in Korea, a good advice is to make a bow when you do it.
And as a final little thing to remember, there are potentially lethal snakes in Korea, so be cautious where you put your feet and hands when you walk and climbs.
Blogs and links about Baekdudaegan
There is not very many blogs and information in English about Baekdudaegan, I have here collected a couple of links til blogs and pages about the spiritual backbone of Korea:
About Baekdudaegan:
Hike Korea
One Korea Photography
Korea's Baekdudaegan
David Mason's San-shin Website
Korean Trails: Baekdudaegan
Article in The Guardian
Article in The New York Times
Article in Seoul Tribune
Blogs or pictures by people that have hiked the whole or parts of the trail:
Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch blog from their expedition
Baekdudaegan 2015 (Marilyne and Brandon)
Baekdudaejang
Breathing the Daegan
Chriz and Liz hiking the Baekdudaegan
Change of plans: Greg Meredith and Rebecca Walker
Yuletyde
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 1 (pictures)
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 2 (pictures)
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 3 (pictures)
A Facebook-group for Baekdudaegan:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/37958349773/
When
The ideal times to hike the Baekdudaegan is mainly governed by the weather gods. In South-Korea there is often a lot of rain in the middle of the summer season, and at its peak in July. This makes the periods before and after the summer the most suitable to walk in. We are here talking about from the middle of May and from the end of August. That being said, you should not be hindered from walking in the summer months, you only have to take in account that you will probably encounter more bad weather underway.
The torn rocky formations of Seoraksan National Park, which probably was my favorite of the national parks I walked through on my hike.
It is not advised to walk the trail in the winter, and probably not doable in its entirety either. Then it will be extremely difficult at times to find the path, combined with the fact that many sections will be very dangerous when they are covered in snow and ice. The trails through the large national parks will also be closed in the late winter to early spring, usually from the second week in February to the first week in May. Deviations from these dates may occur.
A reason to walk in the springtime is to experience the blossoming of the flowers, plants and trees in the mountains, it is said to be especially beautiful when the azaleas are blossoming. There are large festivals in the mountains when this occurs, with the mountains all colored in pink. Sobaeksan and Seoraksan are among the places to be located in then. A reason to walk in the autumn is to experience the autumnal colors, when the leaves changes colors to vermilion fires.
Accommodation
Bringing a tent is not a necessity, but on some stages you will then have to estimate more time in finding places to spend the night at. You will then often have to hike down from the ridge to find places to stay at. Carrying a tent gives you larger flexibility. However, be aware that it is not permitted to camp in the national parks. Inside the parks you have to sleep in the cabins run by the Korea National Park Service. The stay has to be booked in advance, and before 10 o'clock in the morning on the same day. A stay at a cabin will usually cost between 5000 and 11000 won. You pay for a small place in a dormitory and you have to bring with you all you need to sleep in and what you need to cook food with, and food. Though, blankets can be rented and there are usually a small kiosk at the cabins, but the assortment of food items on sale are not very big.
Outside the national parks you will have more alternatives to choose from. Where staying the night in a minbak (homestay) is the most common and available, these are simple rooms being rented out. Often attached to a restaurant. Some of these may also prepare dinner and breakfast upon request. If you want to experience some genuine and real Korean culture, a stay in a minbak is highly recommended on the way, it is an excellent way to encounter the Korean hospitability. Other accommodation options includes motels (yeogwan), sanjangs (mountain villas, a more comfortable style of minbak) and pensions; but these are there fewer of directly on the trail.
Accommodation. A jeongja, an ornamented pavilion that is is possible to stay the night in, if the jeongja is located inside a village it is customary to ask the village inhabitants for permission to sleep in it. The jeongja at the picture is found at the pass of Hwaryeongjae.
Of the more special accommodation options, the ornamented pavilions, a so-called jeongja, should be mentioned. It is allowed to stay the night in these, after the 'regular' guests has left them for the night or evening. For a jeongja that is located inside a village it is customary to ask permission to stay the night at (from the village inhabitants). To sleep in a pavilion could be a special experience. Baekdudaegan provides several opportunites to do so. Another special option is to sleep in one of the temples that dot the trail, namely a temple stay, but this must be booked in advance (though you could be lucky).
Even though a tent provides a better flexibility, you have to be prepared that there won't be water available everywhere.
Food and provisioning
About whichever way you plan your route, about three days will be the longest amount of days you need to carry food with you for. And even within these days it will always be possible to leave the ridge for a nearby village where you can resupply.
Food and provisioning. Inside Daetjae Hyugeso. A hyugeso is a usually a cafe or restaurant located near a road where you can order food, and also has a variety of food items for sale.
Water
The water in the mountains of South-Korea are usually clean and unproblematic to drink. Water from sources that are closer to the civilization should be treated more carefully. The availability of water sources depends on what time of year you walk in, autumn is refered to as the dry season and the sources may often be dry or contain little water. Roger Shepherd's and Andrew Douch's guidebook (more about it later) contains gps coordinates for the water sources along the trail. The water sources are also marked on the maps you can get in South-Korea.
The largest distance on the trail where there are not any water sources are between Wonbangjae (on the stage between Daetjae and Baekbokryeong) and just before Daegwanryeong, about 50km. That being said, it might be possible to acquire some water from the rustic restaurant at Baekbokryeong if it is open (otherwise there is about 2.5km down to Baekbokryeong Swimteo from the pass). And at Dangmokryeong it is possible to ask for water (mul) at the farms that is located near the pass.
It is also wise to pay attention when you are filling water from creeks in the mountains, there are potentially lethal snakes in South-Korea and they are often found nearby water. I saw several snakes when I filled water.
Water. Access to water is essential on a long distance trail. It could be problematic sometimes to find water, especially in the dry months in the autumn. Here from a water source nearby Daegwanryeong.
Difficulty
The mountains in South-Korea are not the tallest ones in the world, and you are already on the highest point on the mainland when you are at the beginning of the trail, Cheonwangbong at 1915m. What the mountains are however, are exceedingly steep at times. And the trail gives no quarter, it usually charges the peaks straight on. Only exceptionally does the path goes on somewhat level ground.
There are several sections on the trail that requires some scrambling, where there will be ropes (of unknown origin) on the most exposed parts. In addition, staircases are also found, making it easier for hikers to climb up and down the most steep and inaccessible paths, these staircases and boardwalks also functions as protection for the path against erosion, tear and wear.
Difficulty. The trail contains several sections where you have to pass obstacles either with the aid of ropes or scrambling / easy climbing. The picture is from a passage between Chagatjae and Beoljae in Woraksan National Park.
The most demanding sections on the Baekdudaegan are probably the descent from Daeyasan in Songnisan National Park, the passage through Gaegumeongbawi after Munjandae (also in Songnisan), the descent from Jeombongsan to Hangyeryeong (in Seoraksan) and the funky ridge over Mungyeong Saejae. Down from Daeyasan the trail goes very steep down one side of the peak with the aid of several ropes, concentration is required (if you choose to do the section, this part is in a closed section). Through Gaegumeongbawi (also in a closed section) the trail is offering both physical and navigational challenges, the same goes for the descent from Jeombongsan (also in a closed section). Over Mungyeong Saejae there are several parts where a fall could be fatal.
Maps and guidebooks
You can get maps of the whole trail in Seoul, I bought one set consisting of 24 maps. One of these maps does not weight a lot, but packed together they take up some space. The biggest problem with the maps are that all the names on the map are in Hangeul, the Korean written language. The trail is clear and evident on the maps, with arrows pointing where the direction is if you are going from south to north. In addition, it also contains time estimates between two points on the route. Water sources are marked on the map as blue circles with a star inside. The map also includes symbols for peaks, staircases, cliffs, helipads, altars, resting places (jeongjas, eateries), signposts, viewing points, tombs and more. Looking at all the height lines on the map, you get a good impression of how undulating Korea is.
Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch has written a very good guidebook for the trail, it can be bought from Hike Korea. The book contains a big section of practical information, together with a detailed description of the trail stage by stage. The descriptions of the stages contains height profiles for the stage, time estimates between milestones on the way (these match the times on the maps), information about accommodation, places to eat, water sources and available transport underways. All the names of the places, peaks, passes and so forth are given by both western and hangeul characters, this is useful since you can compare the names with those on maps and know where you are. The biggest problem with the guidebook is that it is a little bit heavy. This can be solved by reading thoroughly the practical information in advance, eventually take a picture of the pages, and then tear out the descriptions of the stages and only carry them with you (this could maybe feel a little bit like a sacrilege to do). Then you can also leave behind you the descriptions of the stage that you have completed.
Updates to the book and the trail are available at the following page: http://www.koreantrails.org/bddg-updates-changes. This page also contains an overview when the trails are being closed during winter.
Maps and guidebooks. A part of the map of Baekdudaegan. The trail is visible as a red line with white borders. The arrows displays the direction from south to north. The time estimates are between the green points. Do not become insulted of the symbols for temples, that symbol has another meaning in Korea (its original).
Navigation
The Baekdudaegan trail is usually easy to follow, the trail will usually be located on the highest ridge you walk on and it will only rarely break off from the main ridge and cross to another ridge. Still be warned that it does so a couple of few places. The trail never crosses water, since you walk on what is essentially the watershed of Korea. If you come to a junction that is not marked in any away, Baekdudaegan will be the path that goes up to the highest hill nearby in the same direction you came down from. What is making it difficult is that the path often goes down among the trees and that you not always will be able to see the surrounding area.
The trail is not marked in the usual way, as you may be used to by official blazes or signs (like the red and white stripes of the GR trails). In the national parks there will be no markers / blazes on the trail, but there the path will usually be very clear and just as often surrounded by a fence, and signposts at each junction. There is very little chance of going in the wrong direction in the national parks.
Navigation. Hiking ribbons that are tied to trees and bushes are useful navigational aids along the trail. These are put there by hikers having walked there before you. From the summit of Hyeongjebong.
Outside the national parks you will also find several signposts, but not as often as inside them. What is however the greatest aid in navigation here, is the hiking ribbons that former hikers has left behind them. These marks the trails and are often adorned with personal messages and information in addition. It is important to learn how to separate between the different ribbons, since Baekdudaegan is not the only trail in the country. The easiest is to look for the hangeul characters for Baekdudaegan: 백두대간. A little word of warning though, do not follow the ribbons without paying attention the where you are and go. Some hikers may be too eager to hang up ribbons, and also hang up ribbons marked with Baekdudaegan on the sidetrails that leads up to the Baekdudaegan. If you are situated on the highest point and there is a path continuing further, and in the same place there are some ribbons leading down from the path, check your map and the description in the guidebook, also check if there are some ribbons marked with 백두대간 on the trail that follows the path further and not downwards.
It is not allowed to put up ribbons in the national parks, and henceforth there will be less ribbons there as well as in the closed sections.
Navigation. Information board and signpost at the summit of Geumdaebong, with hiking ribbons fluttering where the trail is continuing. The signposts are usually only in Korean (Hangeul), but in the national parks these are also in English.
How to get to the start of the trail (Cheonwangbong)
The guidebook contains several options (three) on how to get to the summit of Cheonwangbong and the beginning of the Baekdudaegan. I chose the one option that was said to be the most practical one, to go from Jungsanri. To get there I took a train from Seoul til Jinju and then a local bus to Jungsanri. The train station in Jinju is situated outside the town, there goes busses to the town, but I took a taxi. You have to buy a ticket before you enter the bus, which can be bought from stall number 4 at the bus station, it is also the same number as the bus. From Jinju there is about 1 hour and 10 minutes to Jungsanri. Jungsanri is located up into the mountains and is also the turning point of the bus, which will drive back to Jinju again from there. The bus station is a large open place. You will find several stores and accommodations in Jungsanri.
From the bus station in Jungsanri there is a little bit of a walk up along the road until you get to another restaurant and minbak, as well as the Jirisan Visitor Centre. You will find the trail leading up to Cheonwangbong after crossing a bridge on the road leading up from the Jirisan Visitor Centre.
Closed sections
One reason that many may not see the Baekdudaegan as a true longdistance-trail, is due to the fact that there are several sections of the trail that are closed. These are closed to preserve the environment, both nature and wildlife inside of the closed areas, and you will be charged a fine if caught walking in one of them. Several of these areas are surveiled by cameras, but there is an ongoing debate whether these are active or not. Ufortunately, some of the most spectacular parts of the Baekdudaegan are located in the closed sections.
Closed sections. Several sections of the Baekdudaegan are closed at the moment due to preservation. I will not directly encourage walking in these. Here from the closed section on the way up to Daeyasan.
The closed sections of the trail will usually be fenced off by varying degrees. Along the roads, these are often blocked by tall fences and cameras, but up in the mountains or in the woods there will be signposts and fences that warns you that the trail ahead is closed. Whether you want to go the closed trails or follow the rules and go around is all up to you, I will not tell you what to do or take any responsibility for what you choose to do. The closed sections are also not so good marked. Some of the barriers are also cumbersome obstacles to pass.
The guidebook by Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch contains descriptions of where the trail is closed and alternative routes and ways to continue your hike.
Other useful things
Communication will probably be the biggest obstacle for many, but know that the Koreans are extremely friendly and hospitable. They will always try to help you in a way and seems to have an understanding that their language is difficult for people from the west. Be nice, glad and grateful and you will get a lot of smiles in return. Remember that kam-sha-ham-nida is the Korean word for thanks and cho-song-ham-nida is sorry. To greet a person you say annyong hoseyo.
Korean hospitability. At the summit of Samdobong, I encountered this very nice group. They offered me food and drinks and made the ending of a very hard (but nice) day almost perfect. The Koreans are very curious, hospitable and generous.
If you plan to hitchhike in Korea, a good advice is to make a bow when you do it.
And as a final little thing to remember, there are potentially lethal snakes in Korea, so be cautious where you put your feet and hands when you walk and climbs.
Blogs and links about Baekdudaegan
There is not very many blogs and information in English about Baekdudaegan, I have here collected a couple of links til blogs and pages about the spiritual backbone of Korea:
About Baekdudaegan:
Hike Korea
One Korea Photography
Korea's Baekdudaegan
David Mason's San-shin Website
Korean Trails: Baekdudaegan
Article in The Guardian
Article in The New York Times
Article in Seoul Tribune
Blogs or pictures by people that have hiked the whole or parts of the trail:
Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch blog from their expedition
Baekdudaegan 2015 (Marilyne and Brandon)
Baekdudaejang
Breathing the Daegan
Chriz and Liz hiking the Baekdudaegan
Change of plans: Greg Meredith and Rebecca Walker
Yuletyde
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 1 (pictures)
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 2 (pictures)
Jiri Nehyba Hiking Baekdudaegan 3 (pictures)
A Facebook-group for Baekdudaegan:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/37958349773/
Saturday, October 25, 2014
Baekdu Daegan
Baekdudaegan (the great white main ridge) is a 1700km long mountain ridge that runs along the entire length of the Korean peninsula. The unbroken mountain ridge is the watershed of Korea and it never crosses water. The ridge begins at Korea's most sacred mountain, Baekdusan (2750m), which is situated at the border between China and North-Korea and ends at Cheonwangbong in the Jirisan-mountains in South-Korea. The mountain ridge is a strong symbol of the identity and nationalism for the people of Korea, it is the spirtual backbone. The 735km long section of the ridge in South-Korea also hosts a long distance trail, called Baekdudaegan, starting at Cheonwangbong and ending at Jinburyeong. In the fall of 2014 I travelled to South-Korea to walk the mighty Baekdudaegan trail, this is my story from it.
Prologue i (03.09):Jungsanri
Prologue ii (04.09):Jungsanri - Cheonwangbong
Day 1 (04.09):Cheonwangbong - Seseok
Day 2 (05.09):Seseok - Nogodan
Day 3 (06.09):Nogodan - Gogiri
Day 4 (07.09):Gogiri - Maeyori
Day 5 (08.09):Maeyori - Bokseongijae
Day 6 (09.09):Bokseongijae - Baegunsan
Day 7 (10.09):Baegunsan - Yuksipryeong
Day 8 (11.09):Yuksipryeong - Satgatgoljae
Day 9 (12.09):Satgatgoljae - Bbaejae
Day 10 (13.09):Bbaejae - Samdobong
Day 11 (14.09):Samdobong - Gwaebangryeong
Day 12 (15.09):Gwaebangryeong - Jakjeomjae
Day 13 (16.09):Jakjeomjae - Keunjae
Day 14 (17.09):Keunjae - Jigijae
Day 15 (18.09):Jigijae - Hwaryeongjae
Day 16 (19.09):Hwaryeongjae - Piatjae
Day 17 (20.09):Piatjae - Neuljae
Day 18 (21.09):Neuljae - Beorimigijae
Day 19 (22.09):Beorimigijae - Eunti
Day 20 (23.09):Eunti - Ihwaryeong
Day 21 (24.09):Ihwaryeong - Mungyeongeup
Day 22 (25.09):Mungyeongeup
Day 23 (26.09):Mungyeongeup - Haneuljae
Day 24 (27.09):Haneuljae - Ansaengdal
Day 25 (28.09):Ansaengdal - Jeosuryeong
Day 26 (29.09):Jeosuryeong - Jukryeong
Day 27 (30.09):Jukryeong - Gochiryeong
Day 28 (01.10):Gochiryeong - Buseoksa
Day 29 (02.10):Buseoksa
Day 30 (03.10):Buseoksa - Doraegijae
Day 31 (04.10):Doraegijae - Hwabangjae
Day 32 (05.10):Hwabangjae - Pijae
Day 33 (06.10):Pijae - Daetjae
Day 34 (07.10):Daetjae - Samhwadong
Day 35 (08.10):Samhwadong - Baekbokryeong
Day 36 (09.10):Baekbokryeong - Sapdangryeong
Day 37 (10.10):Sapdangryeong - Daegwanryeong
Day 38 (11.10):Daegwanryeong - Noinbong
Day 39 (12.10):Noinbong - Guryongryeong
Day 40 (13.10):Myeonggaeri
Day 41 (14.10):Guryongryeong - Jochimryeong
Day 42 (15.10):Jochimryeong - Hangyeryeong
Day 43 (16.10):Hangyeryeong - Gongryong Neungseon
Day 44 (17.10):Gongryong Neungseon - Misiryeong
Day 45 (18.10):Misiryeong - Jinburyeong
Epilogue (19.10):Jinburyeong
Sunday, October 19, 2014
Baekdu Daegan // epilogue // Jinburyeong
It has now almost become a habit to rise up at the crack of dawn on the trail, so it is no surprise that I wake up by myself early in the morning this day as well. Since I am finished with the hike, it feels extra good to be able to just close my eyes again and continue sleeping. My body is light of expectation when I finally rises up from the bed, to a day without hiking. Outside, there is a thin haze being illuminated by the sun. I eat breakfast, bibimbap, in one of the restaurants below the pension, morning rice and morning haze.
There is not much left to do here, but I have one thing I would like to do before I leave Jinburyeong and Baekdudaegan for now. With my backpack packed and ready, I walk down to the small area with the stele; I want to do another small celebration. There it is teeming with people now, a bus stands parked nearby and a large group is embarking on a large-scale preparation of food and drinks. They seems to be hikers that have finished their hike on the Baekdudaegan, they have probably hiked it in stages as most Koreans do.
I have made my own homemade hiking ribbon that I hang up among the other ribbons where the trail ends. At the same time, a new group of hikers are coming down from the ridge, where each hiker receives a flower and are being escorted down to the stele going through a gauntlet of cheering Koreans. For fun, I get in line after the arrived hikers and walk down myself; I also receive a flower and is being cheered at. It feels like a more worthy and deserved ending of the hike than the quiet arrival yesterday.
Then it is time for departure. After having walked and looked at the East Sea from the ridge for a long time, I have only one specific wish, and that is to get down to see the ocean. I have therefore decided that I will go to Sokcho, where I afterwards will travel to Gimcheon to visit Mr. Cho Byeongsam and his wife. The bus arrives, I take a last look up towards the ridge that I have come down from, before I enter the bus. It is with a strange feeling that I drive with the bus down from the ridge that I have spent the last 45 days on. It has been an adventure of the rare, a hard adventure, but one I certainly would not have missed. With me, I carry a part of the lifeforce that flows down from the spiritual backbone of South-Korea.
In Sokcho, I go straight down to the sea and sit down to just look out towards the horizon, while the waves slowly rolls towards the beach.
<- Jinburyeong
Jinburyeong, upon arrival from Baekdudaegan (picture taken the day before).
Jinburyeong.
There is not much left to do here, but I have one thing I would like to do before I leave Jinburyeong and Baekdudaegan for now. With my backpack packed and ready, I walk down to the small area with the stele; I want to do another small celebration. There it is teeming with people now, a bus stands parked nearby and a large group is embarking on a large-scale preparation of food and drinks. They seems to be hikers that have finished their hike on the Baekdudaegan, they have probably hiked it in stages as most Koreans do.
At the finishing line by the stele in Jinburyeong. A hard and beautiful walk through South-Korea on the mighty Baekdudaegan is at its end.
I have made my own homemade hiking ribbon that I hang up among the other ribbons where the trail ends. At the same time, a new group of hikers are coming down from the ridge, where each hiker receives a flower and are being escorted down to the stele going through a gauntlet of cheering Koreans. For fun, I get in line after the arrived hikers and walk down myself; I also receive a flower and is being cheered at. It feels like a more worthy and deserved ending of the hike than the quiet arrival yesterday.
A group gives me a flower and are cheering at me at the end of the trail.
Then it is time for departure. After having walked and looked at the East Sea from the ridge for a long time, I have only one specific wish, and that is to get down to see the ocean. I have therefore decided that I will go to Sokcho, where I afterwards will travel to Gimcheon to visit Mr. Cho Byeongsam and his wife. The bus arrives, I take a last look up towards the ridge that I have come down from, before I enter the bus. It is with a strange feeling that I drive with the bus down from the ridge that I have spent the last 45 days on. It has been an adventure of the rare, a hard adventure, but one I certainly would not have missed. With me, I carry a part of the lifeforce that flows down from the spiritual backbone of South-Korea.
The little area that marks the end of the trail. A group are celebrating their finishing of the trail. By the banner, it looks like they started their hike on the 7th. April 2013.
In Sokcho, I go straight down to the sea and sit down to just look out towards the horizon, while the waves slowly rolls towards the beach.
<- Jinburyeong
Saturday, October 18, 2014
Baekdu Daegan // day 45 // Misiryeong - Jinburyeong
Baekdudaegan day 45.
Distance: 14.1km (761.4km), time spent: 9:46 (383:59).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 800m / 500m / 1244m.
Weather: Nice and clear, cold in the beginning, then warmer.
It is still in the wee hours of the morning when I rise up from the hard bed. As used to rise up early and then walk to the next place as I am, it feels kind of unreal to think of that this is probably the last day on my walk. That tomorrow will the line of days where I am moving towards a given target be broken, that I actually am at the goal. My breakfast is several sweet pastries that I bought yesterday evening. Sokcho is still in the dark when I leave its outskirts in a taxi up towards the bygone hyugeso at Misiryeong. We drive past the huge Del Pina resort that I could sit and look down upon the previous night, illuminated by a countless number of lights.
At Misiryeong there are now several cars parked, with people sleeping inside them. It is dark, cold and gusty outside; a cup of coffee is warming me while I am waiting for enough light to start walking. The path from here is clear, even though it is closed. Just above the pass, there is a small plain with a good view down the valley towards Sokcho. The sun has begun to rise up from the haze over the East Sea, and emits a reddish glow on the sky. From here, Ulsanbawi is seen as a narrow silhouette. Further up above me there are more than one blitz flashing, I am not alone on the trail. It is a worthy start of a last day.
The road over the pass is left further and further behind me as I go upwards, I can see the huge fields of boulders that I passed over yesterday and Daecheonbong is still standing vigilant above the dinosaur spine. The trail involves quite a lot of scrambling and climbing. There are clear signs of military activity in the area, with various bulwarks and trenches of varying quality. Remains of radio wire that lies like tripwire across the path. And is there not a North-Korean reconnaissance patrol I can see sneaking through the forest further down? Probably not, but there has been rumours of such visits in the area.
At the summit of Sangbong (1244m), it was supposed to be an egg-shaped doltap, in the guidebook depicted with snow inside the crevices on the cairn, but there were no traces of it there now. For a small moment, I wonder if I have gone too far, that the subsidiary summit I had passed actually was Sangbong, but it could not be correct. I can hear the boys ahead of me on the path shout from Sinseonbong; the Koreans do has a habit of yelling from the summits. The trail continues in the same style towards that peak, with scrambling and boulders as obstacles, but also going more through woods.
The summit of Sinseonbong (1214m) is not situated directly on the trail, eventually you can say that the trail does not cross directly over the summit. The name of the peak signifies a place for departure of spirits; it is a fitting moment standing on the summit on the day that I probably departs from the spiritual backbone of Korea. The plaque with the name and altitude of the peak has partly fallen apart. The view is great beneath the blue sky; there is a small veil of haze lying over the landscape below towards the sea.
From Sinseonbong the trail makes its way down, past several military relics, some fenced in by barbed wire. At Daeganryeong (ridge pass) I leave Seoraksan National Park, and this closed section of the trail. It is a small pass down in the forest; small windshields are created of rocks amongst the trees, signposts and information boards. A group of hikers are sitting and having lunch, soju, makgeolli and food in large quantities. I take a short break at the pass while I listen to the satisfied mumbling of the Koreans.
I decide to eat lunch on a more quiet spot further up, at a rocky outcrop with views back towards Sinseonbong and Sangbong. It feels almost a little bit sad to think about that this is probably the last time here that I prepare my usual mix of noodles, rice and ham, but to be honest, I am a little bit tired of it. Outside the national park, the forest gets more prominent again, but it is a pleasant path through it. I meet Dong Chon with two friends that are congratulating me of having done the trail. Now, I am not quite finish with the walk yet, but it is not many kilometres left now. Satisfied with myself, I shortly after tumble out of the clean air and fall flat on my face, I am tired.
I arrive at a summit carrying for me an unknown name, and from there I can look down towards Nunmulgogae and the abandoned ski resort there, knowing that further beyond the crest lies Jinburyeong. A group of walkers enjoys the weather at the summit and offers me makgeolli. My body aches, but I cannot do anything but smile. The trail dips beneath the forest again before it takes me up to the last summit on the Baekdudaegan (the trail, not the ridge, which continues further on over several summits on its way to Baekdusan), Masanbong (1051m). There are voices all around me now.
Standing above some trees below, I can see the clock tower of the ski resort, there time is standing still. On the other side of the valley lies the last ridge before the demilitarized zone and North-Korea. It feels strange to be standing here, when I start to walk down from the peak I will at the same time walk down from Baekdudaegan. It is a little distance down for someone with sore feet. It is as if the knowledge that I am soon finished, makes me more aware of the signals from the body, it knows that it will get some rest soon. If I had been talking loud while I am walking down, you would have heard a series of grunts for each time I put down my foot. I now feel on the body how the others with blisters walking the Camino felt it (I do not have any blisters though).
The trail goes past the decayed and deserted place, as curious as I am; I have to go in amongst the decay. Large and empty buildings where the vegetation now grows free, a ghost town. The feeling of being watched while I walk between the buildings. Voices that disappears in the air. The hands of the clock displays different times depending on which side you look at. There is however still beauty in decay, the trees here has beautiful red leaves. It is a strange ending of a long walk.
I also visit the small place next to it, Nunmulgogae, which now seems like a very sleepy place, with some dilapidated houses there as well. From here, it is less noteworthy; the trail passes by some quiet farms. I make a huge smile next to a sign telling me that it is 1km left to Jinburyeong, 1km. An adventure is nearing its end. I come out on a road, where on a small lawn are put several plaques and tablets, supposedly by more wealthy Koreans to commemorate their hike on the Baekdudaegan.
Then, through the trees can I see Jinburyeong and the large stele that marks the end of the trail. I come out of the trees past the last of the fluttering ribbons. Walks over to the large stele, places a hand on the rock. My legs are aching, my feet are sore, my knees are knackered and I have never felt as thin as I do now, but I have made it. 45 days I have spent on walking from Cheonwangbong on the spiritual backbone of Korea. It is not a huge fanfare upon my arrival at Jinburyeong, just an uninterested gardener that does not care much. The occasion calls for a small victory toast of soju, I have now officially finished the trail.
Unofficially, I have a very small hope of, but not particularly faith in, to get to do a fitting epilogue. In the guidebook Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch goes up to the summit of Hyangnobong inside the military zone at the border of the DMZ. The peak lies at 1269m about 2km south of the 4km wide demilitarized zone. They are escorted up, and there were limits to where they could go and what they could do. The only possibility to find out if I am allowed is to ask at the army camp at Jinburyeong, which I do. I ask nicely, but those posted there does not have the authority to allow it, something I had not expected either. So, after that the walk is both officially and unofficially finished. I cross the street for a celebratory beer at a restaurant and send a message back home that I have made it (which promptly causes me to receive a call from home). Later, I found out that Shepherd and Douch got permissions from higher up (no, not that high up), something not anyone can expect.
Jinburyeong consists of a small street with shops and restaurants, a museum, several memorials, aforementioned Baekdudaegan stele and an army camp. I find myself a place to stay at a pension just above the small main street, which is run by a friendly host, almost as a small apartment. In the evening, I eat dinner and drink some beers in one of the restaurants below the pension. The rest of evening is spent celebrating a little bit in my room. I know that I am done, but it feels weird, you do not understand it completely until the next day, when you no longer put on your backpack and continue walking (and still often not, then as well). That being said, my body is probably quite happy by it. Satisfied, it gets dark over the end of the trail, Baekdudaegan.
A journey is over, another begins.
<- MisiryeongJinburyeong ->
Distance: 14.1km (761.4km), time spent: 9:46 (383:59).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 800m / 500m / 1244m.
Weather: Nice and clear, cold in the beginning, then warmer.
It is still in the wee hours of the morning when I rise up from the hard bed. As used to rise up early and then walk to the next place as I am, it feels kind of unreal to think of that this is probably the last day on my walk. That tomorrow will the line of days where I am moving towards a given target be broken, that I actually am at the goal. My breakfast is several sweet pastries that I bought yesterday evening. Sokcho is still in the dark when I leave its outskirts in a taxi up towards the bygone hyugeso at Misiryeong. We drive past the huge Del Pina resort that I could sit and look down upon the previous night, illuminated by a countless number of lights.
Sunrise over the East Sea and Sokcho from a small plain above Misiryeong.
At Misiryeong there are now several cars parked, with people sleeping inside them. It is dark, cold and gusty outside; a cup of coffee is warming me while I am waiting for enough light to start walking. The path from here is clear, even though it is closed. Just above the pass, there is a small plain with a good view down the valley towards Sokcho. The sun has begun to rise up from the haze over the East Sea, and emits a reddish glow on the sky. From here, Ulsanbawi is seen as a narrow silhouette. Further up above me there are more than one blitz flashing, I am not alone on the trail. It is a worthy start of a last day.
Morning splendour over Baekdudaegan above Misiryeong and below Sangbong. Ulsanbawi and Daecheonbong are clearly visible.
The road over the pass is left further and further behind me as I go upwards, I can see the huge fields of boulders that I passed over yesterday and Daecheonbong is still standing vigilant above the dinosaur spine. The trail involves quite a lot of scrambling and climbing. There are clear signs of military activity in the area, with various bulwarks and trenches of varying quality. Remains of radio wire that lies like tripwire across the path. And is there not a North-Korean reconnaissance patrol I can see sneaking through the forest further down? Probably not, but there has been rumours of such visits in the area.
View from Sangbong towards Sinseonbong.
At the summit of Sangbong (1244m), it was supposed to be an egg-shaped doltap, in the guidebook depicted with snow inside the crevices on the cairn, but there were no traces of it there now. For a small moment, I wonder if I have gone too far, that the subsidiary summit I had passed actually was Sangbong, but it could not be correct. I can hear the boys ahead of me on the path shout from Sinseonbong; the Koreans do has a habit of yelling from the summits. The trail continues in the same style towards that peak, with scrambling and boulders as obstacles, but also going more through woods.
The summit of Sinseonbong (1214m) is not situated directly on the trail, eventually you can say that the trail does not cross directly over the summit. The name of the peak signifies a place for departure of spirits; it is a fitting moment standing on the summit on the day that I probably departs from the spiritual backbone of Korea. The plaque with the name and altitude of the peak has partly fallen apart. The view is great beneath the blue sky; there is a small veil of haze lying over the landscape below towards the sea.
More great views, from the summit of Sinseonbong in the direction of Ulsanbawi and Daecheonbong.
From Sinseonbong the trail makes its way down, past several military relics, some fenced in by barbed wire. At Daeganryeong (ridge pass) I leave Seoraksan National Park, and this closed section of the trail. It is a small pass down in the forest; small windshields are created of rocks amongst the trees, signposts and information boards. A group of hikers are sitting and having lunch, soju, makgeolli and food in large quantities. I take a short break at the pass while I listen to the satisfied mumbling of the Koreans.
Descent to Daeganryeong from Sinseonbong, in the horizon you can see the last peak on the Baekdudaegan before Jinburyeong.
I decide to eat lunch on a more quiet spot further up, at a rocky outcrop with views back towards Sinseonbong and Sangbong. It feels almost a little bit sad to think about that this is probably the last time here that I prepare my usual mix of noodles, rice and ham, but to be honest, I am a little bit tired of it. Outside the national park, the forest gets more prominent again, but it is a pleasant path through it. I meet Dong Chon with two friends that are congratulating me of having done the trail. Now, I am not quite finish with the walk yet, but it is not many kilometres left now. Satisfied with myself, I shortly after tumble out of the clean air and fall flat on my face, I am tired.
I arrive at a summit carrying for me an unknown name, and from there I can look down towards Nunmulgogae and the abandoned ski resort there, knowing that further beyond the crest lies Jinburyeong. A group of walkers enjoys the weather at the summit and offers me makgeolli. My body aches, but I cannot do anything but smile. The trail dips beneath the forest again before it takes me up to the last summit on the Baekdudaegan (the trail, not the ridge, which continues further on over several summits on its way to Baekdusan), Masanbong (1051m). There are voices all around me now.
At Daeganryeong, a signpost and a group of walkers having lunch.
Standing above some trees below, I can see the clock tower of the ski resort, there time is standing still. On the other side of the valley lies the last ridge before the demilitarized zone and North-Korea. It feels strange to be standing here, when I start to walk down from the peak I will at the same time walk down from Baekdudaegan. It is a little distance down for someone with sore feet. It is as if the knowledge that I am soon finished, makes me more aware of the signals from the body, it knows that it will get some rest soon. If I had been talking loud while I am walking down, you would have heard a series of grunts for each time I put down my foot. I now feel on the body how the others with blisters walking the Camino felt it (I do not have any blisters though).
View from Masanbong. Below lies Nunmulgogae and the abandoned alpine resort. In the background, the last peaks before the demilitarized zone between North- and South-Korea.
The trail goes past the decayed and deserted place, as curious as I am; I have to go in amongst the decay. Large and empty buildings where the vegetation now grows free, a ghost town. The feeling of being watched while I walk between the buildings. Voices that disappears in the air. The hands of the clock displays different times depending on which side you look at. There is however still beauty in decay, the trees here has beautiful red leaves. It is a strange ending of a long walk.
Walking between the empty and deserted buildings in Alps Ski Resort, a ghost town so to speak, the hands on the clock tower has stopped on different times depending on which side you look at. The vegetation has begun to take over.
I also visit the small place next to it, Nunmulgogae, which now seems like a very sleepy place, with some dilapidated houses there as well. From here, it is less noteworthy; the trail passes by some quiet farms. I make a huge smile next to a sign telling me that it is 1km left to Jinburyeong, 1km. An adventure is nearing its end. I come out on a road, where on a small lawn are put several plaques and tablets, supposedly by more wealthy Koreans to commemorate their hike on the Baekdudaegan.
Then, through the trees can I see Jinburyeong and the large stele that marks the end of the trail. I come out of the trees past the last of the fluttering ribbons. Walks over to the large stele, places a hand on the rock. My legs are aching, my feet are sore, my knees are knackered and I have never felt as thin as I do now, but I have made it. 45 days I have spent on walking from Cheonwangbong on the spiritual backbone of Korea. It is not a huge fanfare upon my arrival at Jinburyeong, just an uninterested gardener that does not care much. The occasion calls for a small victory toast of soju, I have now officially finished the trail.
One kilometre left, a somewhat unreal moment.
Unofficially, I have a very small hope of, but not particularly faith in, to get to do a fitting epilogue. In the guidebook Roger Shepherd and Andrew Douch goes up to the summit of Hyangnobong inside the military zone at the border of the DMZ. The peak lies at 1269m about 2km south of the 4km wide demilitarized zone. They are escorted up, and there were limits to where they could go and what they could do. The only possibility to find out if I am allowed is to ask at the army camp at Jinburyeong, which I do. I ask nicely, but those posted there does not have the authority to allow it, something I had not expected either. So, after that the walk is both officially and unofficially finished. I cross the street for a celebratory beer at a restaurant and send a message back home that I have made it (which promptly causes me to receive a call from home). Later, I found out that Shepherd and Douch got permissions from higher up (no, not that high up), something not anyone can expect.
Jinburyeong, my backpack placed next to the large stele that marks the end of the Baekdudaegan trail. 45 days after I left Cheonwangbong in Jirisan, I have completed the trail. Satisfied and tired.
Jinburyeong consists of a small street with shops and restaurants, a museum, several memorials, aforementioned Baekdudaegan stele and an army camp. I find myself a place to stay at a pension just above the small main street, which is run by a friendly host, almost as a small apartment. In the evening, I eat dinner and drink some beers in one of the restaurants below the pension. The rest of evening is spent celebrating a little bit in my room. I know that I am done, but it feels weird, you do not understand it completely until the next day, when you no longer put on your backpack and continue walking (and still often not, then as well). That being said, my body is probably quite happy by it. Satisfied, it gets dark over the end of the trail, Baekdudaegan.
A journey is over, another begins.
<- MisiryeongJinburyeong ->
Friday, October 17, 2014
Baekdu Daegan // day 44 // Gongryong Neungseon - Misiryeong
Baekdudaegan day 44.
Distance: 12.8km (747.3km), time spent: 10:46 (374:13).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1200m / 800m / 1381m.
Weather: Very nice, but strong wind.
Wake up from the windy night and feel the cold chill of the morning. It has been the coldest night on the walk so far, and the wind has been at it during the whole night. Still, I have slept relatively warm and good, even though I woke up a couple of times when it was at its worst. Wind can make a lot of noise. I choose to walk a little bit before I will eat breakfast; it is chilly down between the spines of the dinosaur. First, however, I would get to see the sunrise, so I climb on top of a cliff nearby to see the first rays of the sun appear over the edge. There are silhouettes of people at the top of Sinseondae. Charged by the sunrays, I lift up my backpack and continue walking.
The trail fortunately does not go straight over all the rocky formations and spires, which would have demanded climbing equipment and had been a huge challenge, but winds itself around, up and sometimes over them. Ropes and small railings you could let either hang for decoration on the steepest parts or if you wish, use them as aid to get up or down. It is a spectacular walk where the view is nothing less than majestic. If the trail further into the DMZ had been just as fantastic as this one, I almost could have continued walking on it without taking care of the chances of being shot or stepping on a mine. So great is it, though you should not go around and encourage people to go there.
When the sun and the walking has warmed me enough, I sit down below a cliff and prepare breakfast, which becomes a sight for many a hiker passing by. Even though it is still early in the day, I meet many hikers, it is clear that Seoraksan is one of the most popular national parks here. It seems that almost of the national parks has some kind of a main artery going through them; this must be the one in Seoraksan. Some hikers says straight out that this is their favourite mountain in South-Korea, I shall not argue against them. There are a lot of smiling, and tired, faces out walking. Jeong is something that is never forgotten, a walker rummages through his backpack to give me a pack of noodles.
After coming up to a small platform between two spires, I just have to let go of my backpack and climb on top of one of the spires. It is a path that requires some concentration, but up at the top of the spire the reward is great. A good base to see how cool the spine of the dinosaur really is when you are standing on the midst of it. Me and another has to play daredevil and balances out on a thin ledge with a fall down on all sides except the one we went out on. Daecheonbong is watching intently from above.
The dinosaur throws me off at Madeungryeong Samgeori, where there is a path going down in the direction of Sokcho, Biseondae and the temples by that entrance to Seoraksan. From one of the temples in the valley below, Gyejoam, there is a short way up to the characteristic edge or huge boulder of Ulsanbawi, which has been in my line of sight since yesterday. Ulsanbawi is an infamous rocky formation that juts up from the landscape like a knife's edge, and is offering a thin, somewhat demanding and spectacular walk across. It is tempting to go down to see all of what the valley below has to offer, but my journey continues further into the forbidden section after Madeungryeong, 300 meters further up.
The landscape changes character a little after Madeungryeong, a kind of smaller version of the tremendous ridge I have passed, something that makes me give it the name of Dinosaur Jr. Spine. The biggest difference is though that the path is worse, more overgrown and there are many loose stones on it that makes it a little bit difficult walking here. It does not take away the experience of a nice hike. The wind that calmed down after the sunrise this morning has now begun to blow with heavy force again. So much that I on the top of a cliff are not able to stand upright, but has to sit down to take a picture. Balancing out on the ledge that I did earlier, would now have been really dangerous.
The cliffwalk, unlike the ridgewalk, is over when I set off down towards Jeohangryeong. The descent crosses over a large field consisting of large boulders, it is heavy work, but doable. In very bad weather, this part of the route would have been difficult. Jeohangryeong is now a very quiet pass with several crossing paths, but these are now mostly completely overgrown. From the pass, you climb steep up towards Hwangcheolbong (1381m), on the way I pass a 'fake' summit with a homemade sign on that makes me slightly confused.
From the 'fake' summit (1368m), I can follow the course of the dinosaur jr. spine and the dinosaur spine towards Daecheonbong that is towering in the background. In the horizon to the north lies the DMZ and the mountains in North-Korea, I can see the summit of Hyangnobong and the abandoned ski resort at Nunmulgogae above Jinburyeong. There has been some hollow rumbles in the air at times today, I look a little bit unsure towards the north sometimes. That Hwangcheolbong lies covered up by the vegetation, together with the 'fake' summit and that the path here is not marked, are making me at first take the wrong path at the proper summit and walks for a short time in an unknown direction.
With the map and the compass consulted, I am back on the right track again. Down towards Misiryeong I encounter yet another accumulation of obstacles that provides more wear for my aching joints and sore feet. The trail passes over several huge fields of large boulders. The wind is blowing hard and keeping the balance on the rocks are difficult and time consuming. Stubbornly and slowly, I move downwards, on lookout for the best path through the boulders. A fall here could cause serious trouble. In the end, I step in under the safety of the branches after having left the last of the rocky fields.
The sun is on the wane when I am getting close to Misiryeong, through the trees I can see another surveillance camera on the path. Unsure whether the camera is in use or not, I resort to the bush again, which means more hurting bashing through scrub and thicket. I locate a path that leads me down to the road just below the pass, with a tall fence between the road and me. More hurting bashing through scrub before I get to the end of the fence. I found of all things a golf ball while I was pushing myself through the bushes, later on, I found out that I had lost my bottle of soda that I used as an additional water bottle inside the bush. I was not happy with that; do not like to leave behind things in the nature.
I was somewhat anxious to end up in the dark again on the way down, but I got down before that time. In the guidebook, I could read about what the hyugeso at the pass had to offer, but also that they were unsure of how long it would survive since the paths on both sides of the pass are closed. They were completely right about how long the hyugeso would survive, the former wooden building is definitely closed and in visible decay, almost as a ghost house. Outside there is a large parking lot with a great view down towards Sokcho and the East Sea. As a compensation for what the restaurant had to offer, there are some vending machines on the parking lot selling hot and cold drinks, which I gladly make use of.
While the wind is blowing cold around me, I am unsure of what to do. Stay at the pass or leave the ridge for a place. Sokcho far down next to the sea is tempting, but it is a long way there. Of course, I forget that whatever happens, Baekdudaegan will provide. A bus consisting of old people on a trip is stopping at the pass in the dusk. I nicely ask the driver if he can call a taxi for me, which turned out to be not so easy. Instead, it ends up with that I get to ride on the bus down to Sokcho. In the outskirts of the city, the bus drives past some motels and they are kindly letting me off next to one of them.
I am looking forward to another night in a bed. After showered my now quite tired body, I walk in the dark through the little neighbourhood until I find a restaurant. No 'opse' here, I get served meat on the grill (bulkogi). The walls in the restaurant are covered by greetings and drawings from former guests. Another guest looks up, smiles, greets me and says that we met on the dinosaur spine earlier on the day, funny. On the way back to the motel, I buy myself some Friday snacks. Potato chips, maekchu (beer) and chocolate. Which is greedily consumed in the motel room while I am relaxing, my knees are really tired. It feels unreal to think that tomorrow is probably the last day of my walk. A beautiful day.
<- Gongryong NeungseonJinburyeong ->
Distance: 12.8km (747.3km), time spent: 10:46 (374:13).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1200m / 800m / 1381m.
Weather: Very nice, but strong wind.
Wake up from the windy night and feel the cold chill of the morning. It has been the coldest night on the walk so far, and the wind has been at it during the whole night. Still, I have slept relatively warm and good, even though I woke up a couple of times when it was at its worst. Wind can make a lot of noise. I choose to walk a little bit before I will eat breakfast; it is chilly down between the spines of the dinosaur. First, however, I would get to see the sunrise, so I climb on top of a cliff nearby to see the first rays of the sun appear over the edge. There are silhouettes of people at the top of Sinseondae. Charged by the sunrays, I lift up my backpack and continue walking.
Sunrise from the dinosaur spine.
The trail fortunately does not go straight over all the rocky formations and spires, which would have demanded climbing equipment and had been a huge challenge, but winds itself around, up and sometimes over them. Ropes and small railings you could let either hang for decoration on the steepest parts or if you wish, use them as aid to get up or down. It is a spectacular walk where the view is nothing less than majestic. If the trail further into the DMZ had been just as fantastic as this one, I almost could have continued walking on it without taking care of the chances of being shot or stepping on a mine. So great is it, though you should not go around and encourage people to go there.
Ulsanbawi, an infamous and huge rock outside of Sokcho.
When the sun and the walking has warmed me enough, I sit down below a cliff and prepare breakfast, which becomes a sight for many a hiker passing by. Even though it is still early in the day, I meet many hikers, it is clear that Seoraksan is one of the most popular national parks here. It seems that almost of the national parks has some kind of a main artery going through them; this must be the one in Seoraksan. Some hikers says straight out that this is their favourite mountain in South-Korea, I shall not argue against them. There are a lot of smiling, and tired, faces out walking. Jeong is something that is never forgotten, a walker rummages through his backpack to give me a pack of noodles.
After coming up to a small platform between two spires, I just have to let go of my backpack and climb on top of one of the spires. It is a path that requires some concentration, but up at the top of the spire the reward is great. A good base to see how cool the spine of the dinosaur really is when you are standing on the midst of it. Me and another has to play daredevil and balances out on a thin ledge with a fall down on all sides except the one we went out on. Daecheonbong is watching intently from above.
Up at the top of a spire on Gongryong Neungseon there is tough view down towards the valley below with Sokcho and the East Sea in the background.
The dinosaur throws me off at Madeungryeong Samgeori, where there is a path going down in the direction of Sokcho, Biseondae and the temples by that entrance to Seoraksan. From one of the temples in the valley below, Gyejoam, there is a short way up to the characteristic edge or huge boulder of Ulsanbawi, which has been in my line of sight since yesterday. Ulsanbawi is an infamous rocky formation that juts up from the landscape like a knife's edge, and is offering a thin, somewhat demanding and spectacular walk across. It is tempting to go down to see all of what the valley below has to offer, but my journey continues further into the forbidden section after Madeungryeong, 300 meters further up.
From the top of the spire, I can look down upon other hikers that are climbing on the spine of the dinosaur.
The landscape changes character a little after Madeungryeong, a kind of smaller version of the tremendous ridge I have passed, something that makes me give it the name of Dinosaur Jr. Spine. The biggest difference is though that the path is worse, more overgrown and there are many loose stones on it that makes it a little bit difficult walking here. It does not take away the experience of a nice hike. The wind that calmed down after the sunrise this morning has now begun to blow with heavy force again. So much that I on the top of a cliff are not able to stand upright, but has to sit down to take a picture. Balancing out on the ledge that I did earlier, would now have been really dangerous.
Balancing out on the tip of a ledge, in the background Daecheonbong and the part of Gongryong Neungseon I have walked over.
The cliffwalk, unlike the ridgewalk, is over when I set off down towards Jeohangryeong. The descent crosses over a large field consisting of large boulders, it is heavy work, but doable. In very bad weather, this part of the route would have been difficult. Jeohangryeong is now a very quiet pass with several crossing paths, but these are now mostly completely overgrown. From the pass, you climb steep up towards Hwangcheolbong (1381m), on the way I pass a 'fake' summit with a homemade sign on that makes me slightly confused.
From the 'fake' summit (1368m), I can follow the course of the dinosaur jr. spine and the dinosaur spine towards Daecheonbong that is towering in the background. In the horizon to the north lies the DMZ and the mountains in North-Korea, I can see the summit of Hyangnobong and the abandoned ski resort at Nunmulgogae above Jinburyeong. There has been some hollow rumbles in the air at times today, I look a little bit unsure towards the north sometimes. That Hwangcheolbong lies covered up by the vegetation, together with the 'fake' summit and that the path here is not marked, are making me at first take the wrong path at the proper summit and walks for a short time in an unknown direction.
By Madeungryeong Samgeori, in the background the spire that I climbed on top of.
With the map and the compass consulted, I am back on the right track again. Down towards Misiryeong I encounter yet another accumulation of obstacles that provides more wear for my aching joints and sore feet. The trail passes over several huge fields of large boulders. The wind is blowing hard and keeping the balance on the rocks are difficult and time consuming. Stubbornly and slowly, I move downwards, on lookout for the best path through the boulders. A fall here could cause serious trouble. In the end, I step in under the safety of the branches after having left the last of the rocky fields.
From the real summit of Madeungryeong, the dinosaur spine in its entirety below Daecheonbong.
The sun is on the wane when I am getting close to Misiryeong, through the trees I can see another surveillance camera on the path. Unsure whether the camera is in use or not, I resort to the bush again, which means more hurting bashing through scrub and thicket. I locate a path that leads me down to the road just below the pass, with a tall fence between the road and me. More hurting bashing through scrub before I get to the end of the fence. I found of all things a golf ball while I was pushing myself through the bushes, later on, I found out that I had lost my bottle of soda that I used as an additional water bottle inside the bush. I was not happy with that; do not like to leave behind things in the nature.
On the way down the rocky fields towards Misiryeong. On the other side of the valley, you can see the summit of Sangbong, in the background the mountains in the demilitarized zone between South- and North-Korea.
I was somewhat anxious to end up in the dark again on the way down, but I got down before that time. In the guidebook, I could read about what the hyugeso at the pass had to offer, but also that they were unsure of how long it would survive since the paths on both sides of the pass are closed. They were completely right about how long the hyugeso would survive, the former wooden building is definitely closed and in visible decay, almost as a ghost house. Outside there is a large parking lot with a great view down towards Sokcho and the East Sea. As a compensation for what the restaurant had to offer, there are some vending machines on the parking lot selling hot and cold drinks, which I gladly make use of.
The closed and decaying hyugeso at Misiryeong.
While the wind is blowing cold around me, I am unsure of what to do. Stay at the pass or leave the ridge for a place. Sokcho far down next to the sea is tempting, but it is a long way there. Of course, I forget that whatever happens, Baekdudaegan will provide. A bus consisting of old people on a trip is stopping at the pass in the dusk. I nicely ask the driver if he can call a taxi for me, which turned out to be not so easy. Instead, it ends up with that I get to ride on the bus down to Sokcho. In the outskirts of the city, the bus drives past some motels and they are kindly letting me off next to one of them.
In a restaurant in the outskirts of Sokcho, the walls are covered by drawings and greetings from former guests.
I am looking forward to another night in a bed. After showered my now quite tired body, I walk in the dark through the little neighbourhood until I find a restaurant. No 'opse' here, I get served meat on the grill (bulkogi). The walls in the restaurant are covered by greetings and drawings from former guests. Another guest looks up, smiles, greets me and says that we met on the dinosaur spine earlier on the day, funny. On the way back to the motel, I buy myself some Friday snacks. Potato chips, maekchu (beer) and chocolate. Which is greedily consumed in the motel room while I am relaxing, my knees are really tired. It feels unreal to think that tomorrow is probably the last day of my walk. A beautiful day.
<- Gongryong NeungseonJinburyeong ->
Thursday, October 16, 2014
Baekdu Daegan // day 43 // Hangyeryeong - Gongryong Neungseon
Baekdudaegan day 43.
Distance: 13.1km (734.5km), time spent: 9:34 (363:27).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 900m / 1200m / 1708m.
Weather: Heavy rain and fog, then heavy blue sky.
The night is not yet over when I get up; the sleepy hours before the day comes to life has almost started to become a habit now. It feels almost a little bit sad when I close the door after me and step out into the quiet dark to find a taxi that can drive me back up to Hangyeryeong. I would very much have liked to say goodbye to the elderly couple that ran the place, if nothing else to say thanks for my stay. It is bloody dark up towards Hangyeryeong, and only the headlights from the car makes me see anything at all, where the taxi winds its way up the meandering road towards the pass. The day should turn out to be just as winding by character as the road. More than a dark landscape, I did not see from my visit in the Oseak gorge.
Hangyeryeong is just as wrapped in darkness. Since I do not wish to go before it starts to become light, I am pretty much obliged to wait. Outside the hyugeso, which has not opened yet, there is a street vendor with a small tent outside that provides nice cover for the cold wind. There, I am sitting together with some other walkers who also are waiting to go, while they are eating hot noodles. When the day dawns, it is without any signs of the sun, it is greyish and hints of rain in the air.
The trailhead is next to the entrance of the restaurant, on a concrete staircase that takes you up to a closed building of some kind. It is a steep incline, but since I am located in a national park, it is facilitated for walkers with a series of staircases. It does not take long time before I feel the first raindrops. A loud thunderclap resonates from the sky. I continue walking for some time and then the rain just gets worse and worse, before I stop completely and makes a turnaround. I cannot explain to myself why I am giving up, it just stops, tired and not motivated to walk in the rain and not knowing where I am going to spend the night. Rain and wind are tearing through Seoraksan's rocky formations. Dejected I explain that I am giving up to a couple, who just ends up smiling.
I am almost back down at Hangyeryeong again, when the layers of clouds suddenly tears apart and blue sky pushes itself through. Not to believe, so I make another turnaround. Both time and strength tossed away. Going upwards, the trail passes between trees that looks like ghost trees, where the leaves has left the branches and lies forgotten on the ground. Well-made natural staircases of stone clings to the surface upwards. However, the weather has not made a full turnaround, further up it is closing in on the mountains again, but the rain is fortunately absent.
Ruptured hills of rock are reaching up from beneath the clouds, from the ridge I can look down upon what is called Naeseorak or inner Seorak. Seoraksan is about 400 000km² big and is split into three sections, Oeseorak (outer), Namseorak (south) and aforementioned Naeseorak. Before, I have walked through Namseorak over Jeombongsan for instance, and Baekdudaegan forms a natural dividing line between the outer and the inner section. Oeseorak is the most popular section and is situated closer to the coast and Sokcho. I overtake the smiling couple, which now becomes the laughing couple. They share a sausage and an apple with me by a nice viewing point, where we can look over towards Jeombongsan that is now hidden in the clouds, and down towards where the road meanders its way up to Hangyeryeong.
The fog has the upper hand again over Jungcheongbong, and the wind has increased in strength. There are no views to be had from the summit (1664m), only a land of fog. When I am getting closer to Jungcheong Shelter in the gale, a man is coming hollering behind me and stop me to save the rain coat of my backpack, which is about to loosen and disappear into the clouds of Seoraksan. We walk together to the cabin, where we just can see the summit of Daecheonbong under the clouds. It was here that I initially had planned to walk to today; but when I called to reserve a place, there were none left. It turned out to be no places left on any of the cabins in the area. The plans was changed, I then thought of going to Madeungryeong instead, now my plans has to be changed again, I will probably not reach there before it gets dark. And that I do not wish.
After a small break in shelter for the wind inside the cabin, Jang Kung Bey and I are continuing up towards Daecheonbong. And now it is as someone has gone around and painted over the grey colour of the sky with blue paint, the strong wind are blowing away the clouds. Seoraksan has opened up its arms for me; I am awestruck and happy that I choose to turn around for the second time. At the summit (1708m), there are quite a lot of people, and the view from the next to tallest mountain on the mainland of South-Korea is excellent. And most prominent in the line of sight is the dinosaur spine (Gongryong Neungseon), with Ulsanbawi behind. I can see the trail that twists and turns around the characteristic rocky formations that the spine has its name from.
Jang Kung Bey is only out for a day hike, and continues further on the path leading east that goes down from the mountain. There will be no sunset or sunrise from the summit of Daecheonbong for me, since I have to move on, so I spend some more time at the summit to enjoy the moment before setting course down towards the Huiungak cabin. At some places, I pass small patches of snow. The Huiungak Shelter is a smaller, calmer and more atmospheric cabin than Jungcheon, and reminds me a little of the Yeonhacheon Shelter that I passed on my second day of the walk. Which is somewhat strange to think of. A small creek runs past the cabin, where I eat my lunch.
I have decided to look for a place to camp as soon as I walked some distance away from the cabin, even though I know it is not allowed, the problem is that the trail now is venturing up into the spine of the dinosaur and I believe it is not many straight surfaces there. The trail goes on its way up towards the cliffs on built up paths like paved roads in the nature. The first time I am located at the top of the spine, I am standing at Sinseondae, which means a lookout and a spiritual platform for Taoist immortal spirits. I do not want to be on the back of this dinosaur when it starts to move, it is mighty.
Then a perfect spot to pitch the tent is coming up, it has a nice flat surface, view towards Sokcho and the sea, and it is in shelter for the wind. Though I do not pitch my tent right away, it is something I will wait to later to do. Instead, I spend my time relaxing and climbing around on the dinosaur, before I find me a good place to enjoy the sunset. I can however envy those who get to see it from the summit of Daecheongbong a little, even though it is very nice from where I sit. After the sun has left, I walk back and pitch my tent.
With the changing weather, I have almost been able to see Seoraksan in all sorts of nuances, and that I am extremely satisfied with. I prepare and eat dinner with an evening view of the lights from Sokcho and the boats capturing squid on the East Sea. The wind is now coming from another direction, and it blows fresher. I am a little bit cold when I crawl into my little cave. Wrapped in a warm sleeping bag, with a little toast of soju to warm me on, I can do nothing but to thank for a fantastic day.
<- HangyeryeongMisiryeong ->
Distance: 13.1km (734.5km), time spent: 9:34 (363:27).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 900m / 1200m / 1708m.
Weather: Heavy rain and fog, then heavy blue sky.
The night is not yet over when I get up; the sleepy hours before the day comes to life has almost started to become a habit now. It feels almost a little bit sad when I close the door after me and step out into the quiet dark to find a taxi that can drive me back up to Hangyeryeong. I would very much have liked to say goodbye to the elderly couple that ran the place, if nothing else to say thanks for my stay. It is bloody dark up towards Hangyeryeong, and only the headlights from the car makes me see anything at all, where the taxi winds its way up the meandering road towards the pass. The day should turn out to be just as winding by character as the road. More than a dark landscape, I did not see from my visit in the Oseak gorge.
In a wagon outside Hangyeryeong, a street vendor sits and sell food, drinks and equipment in the morning.
Hangyeryeong is just as wrapped in darkness. Since I do not wish to go before it starts to become light, I am pretty much obliged to wait. Outside the hyugeso, which has not opened yet, there is a street vendor with a small tent outside that provides nice cover for the cold wind. There, I am sitting together with some other walkers who also are waiting to go, while they are eating hot noodles. When the day dawns, it is without any signs of the sun, it is greyish and hints of rain in the air.
The clouds are temporarily withdrawing back over the mountains, on the way up from Hangyeryong for the second time.
The trailhead is next to the entrance of the restaurant, on a concrete staircase that takes you up to a closed building of some kind. It is a steep incline, but since I am located in a national park, it is facilitated for walkers with a series of staircases. It does not take long time before I feel the first raindrops. A loud thunderclap resonates from the sky. I continue walking for some time and then the rain just gets worse and worse, before I stop completely and makes a turnaround. I cannot explain to myself why I am giving up, it just stops, tired and not motivated to walk in the rain and not knowing where I am going to spend the night. Rain and wind are tearing through Seoraksan's rocky formations. Dejected I explain that I am giving up to a couple, who just ends up smiling.
View down towards Naeseorak, or inner Seoraksan, the rocky formations also receive a glimpse of the sun.
I am almost back down at Hangyeryeong again, when the layers of clouds suddenly tears apart and blue sky pushes itself through. Not to believe, so I make another turnaround. Both time and strength tossed away. Going upwards, the trail passes between trees that looks like ghost trees, where the leaves has left the branches and lies forgotten on the ground. Well-made natural staircases of stone clings to the surface upwards. However, the weather has not made a full turnaround, further up it is closing in on the mountains again, but the rain is fortunately absent.
The trail passes through grey trees that looks like a ghost wood from the fairy tales.
Ruptured hills of rock are reaching up from beneath the clouds, from the ridge I can look down upon what is called Naeseorak or inner Seorak. Seoraksan is about 400 000km² big and is split into three sections, Oeseorak (outer), Namseorak (south) and aforementioned Naeseorak. Before, I have walked through Namseorak over Jeombongsan for instance, and Baekdudaegan forms a natural dividing line between the outer and the inner section. Oeseorak is the most popular section and is situated closer to the coast and Sokcho. I overtake the smiling couple, which now becomes the laughing couple. They share a sausage and an apple with me by a nice viewing point, where we can look over towards Jeombongsan that is now hidden in the clouds, and down towards where the road meanders its way up to Hangyeryeong.
View down towards a valley beneath a grey and desolate sky, Jeombongsan hidden in the clouds in the background and you can see the road that meanders its way up towards Hangyeryeong.
The fog has the upper hand again over Jungcheongbong, and the wind has increased in strength. There are no views to be had from the summit (1664m), only a land of fog. When I am getting closer to Jungcheong Shelter in the gale, a man is coming hollering behind me and stop me to save the rain coat of my backpack, which is about to loosen and disappear into the clouds of Seoraksan. We walk together to the cabin, where we just can see the summit of Daecheonbong under the clouds. It was here that I initially had planned to walk to today; but when I called to reserve a place, there were none left. It turned out to be no places left on any of the cabins in the area. The plans was changed, I then thought of going to Madeungryeong instead, now my plans has to be changed again, I will probably not reach there before it gets dark. And that I do not wish.
On the way down from Jungcheonbong, view towards Jungcheong Shelter and Daecheonbong.
After a small break in shelter for the wind inside the cabin, Jang Kung Bey and I are continuing up towards Daecheonbong. And now it is as someone has gone around and painted over the grey colour of the sky with blue paint, the strong wind are blowing away the clouds. Seoraksan has opened up its arms for me; I am awestruck and happy that I choose to turn around for the second time. At the summit (1708m), there are quite a lot of people, and the view from the next to tallest mountain on the mainland of South-Korea is excellent. And most prominent in the line of sight is the dinosaur spine (Gongryong Neungseon), with Ulsanbawi behind. I can see the trail that twists and turns around the characteristic rocky formations that the spine has its name from.
Magnificent view from the summit of Daecheonbong, which is the highest mountain on the mainland of South-Korea. Below you can see Gongryong Neungseon (the dinosaur spine); in the background, the famous rock of Ulsanbawi and Sokcho.
Jang Kung Bey is only out for a day hike, and continues further on the path leading east that goes down from the mountain. There will be no sunset or sunrise from the summit of Daecheonbong for me, since I have to move on, so I spend some more time at the summit to enjoy the moment before setting course down towards the Huiungak cabin. At some places, I pass small patches of snow. The Huiungak Shelter is a smaller, calmer and more atmospheric cabin than Jungcheon, and reminds me a little of the Yeonhacheon Shelter that I passed on my second day of the walk. Which is somewhat strange to think of. A small creek runs past the cabin, where I eat my lunch.
Sokcho and the East Sea as seen from Daecheonbong.
I have decided to look for a place to camp as soon as I walked some distance away from the cabin, even though I know it is not allowed, the problem is that the trail now is venturing up into the spine of the dinosaur and I believe it is not many straight surfaces there. The trail goes on its way up towards the cliffs on built up paths like paved roads in the nature. The first time I am located at the top of the spine, I am standing at Sinseondae, which means a lookout and a spiritual platform for Taoist immortal spirits. I do not want to be on the back of this dinosaur when it starts to move, it is mighty.
Gongryong Neungseon or the dinosaur spine. Pointed rocky formations pushing upwards, and the trail passes by in between them.
Then a perfect spot to pitch the tent is coming up, it has a nice flat surface, view towards Sokcho and the sea, and it is in shelter for the wind. Though I do not pitch my tent right away, it is something I will wait to later to do. Instead, I spend my time relaxing and climbing around on the dinosaur, before I find me a good place to enjoy the sunset. I can however envy those who get to see it from the summit of Daecheongbong a little, even though it is very nice from where I sit. After the sun has left, I walk back and pitch my tent.
Sunset from the dinosaur spine.
With the changing weather, I have almost been able to see Seoraksan in all sorts of nuances, and that I am extremely satisfied with. I prepare and eat dinner with an evening view of the lights from Sokcho and the boats capturing squid on the East Sea. The wind is now coming from another direction, and it blows fresher. I am a little bit cold when I crawl into my little cave. Wrapped in a warm sleeping bag, with a little toast of soju to warm me on, I can do nothing but to thank for a fantastic day.
<- HangyeryeongMisiryeong ->
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A pilgrimage from the Costa del Sol to the Costa da Morte, from Malaga and Almeria to Santiago de Compostela and Finisterre. 1th of Septem...