Distance: 11.0km (11.0km).
Weather: Clear blue sky, hot.
Caminho do Este de Portugal might very well be called the Way less travelled. This is a lesser known and barely trod Camino to Santiago that goes through the eastern regions of Portugal. It could be counted among, if there exists such a term, the forgotten routes to Santiago de Compostela. Waymarking is sparse, if not existing at all at times. If you are used to the infrastructure along the Camino Francés, this is far away from the services you are used to then. There are no albergues or bars waiting for you around every corner, you will not find accommodation at the end of each day here. In short, it is a Camino that requires a lot more preparations to do, and is for the more experienced pilgrims out there, or at least the more adventurous.
Inside the cathedral of Faro, Sé de Faro.
A wonderfully tiled chapel in Sé de Faro.
The meeting point for the group, Igreja do Carmo in Faro. Unfortunately the church was closed, although it was supposed to be open.
A friend of mine, Gry Folge, walked the Caminho do Este de Portugal a few years back and wanted to take a group of pilgrims with her to experience this wonderful walk. We are both in the board of Pilegrimsfellesskapet St. Jakob in Norway, a non-commercial pilgrim confraternity that works to get people out to experience the wonders of the pilgrimage. With the confraternity at our backs, we arranged a group tour on the Camino, with Gry as the main guide and me as co-guide. The plan is to do the Camino in sections, until we reach Santiago. Due to the nature of the Camino, arranging a guided tour of the whole Camino would be too difficult an undertaking. The first section we planned for was a week, starting in Faro on the south coast of Portugal, ending in Mertola.
Walking towards the oldtown, next to the Jardim Manuel Bivar.
Arco da Vila.
Leaving Faro, we walk next to the river on a promenade.
Four people joined the arranged walk. Jorun and Laila from Norway, whom I know from before. Ulf from Sweden, who is also author of a guidebook to the Camino Francés. Karsten from Denmark. Quite an ideal size of a group actually, not too big.
Leaving Faro.
Portuguese graphitti.
On a busy road after having left Faro.
The Camino itself does not start in Faro, but in Tavira, but as Faro is such a prominent town in Portugal with its history and culture, we believed it to be a good starting point of our walk. It was also where Gry began her pilgrimage from. We all met at the Igreja do Carmo church, from where we went to a place to have lunch before beginning the walk. I certainly would have loved to have more time available here in Faro, based on the little time we had, it looks very charming. We only got time to see a little of the streets and outside the cathedral.
Once this might have been a mansion maybe.
Karsten and a billboard.
The group happy on their way on the first day, from left Laila, Jorun, Ulf, Karsten and Gry.
From Faro to our first destination, Olhão, it is not a long walk. We would only be walking for about 11 to 12km, but as we started late and it is the first day, we deemed it to be a good distance. Unfortunately, despite how beautiful Faro is, starting out from Faro is not as enticing. There is little escaping walking on a busy road in the beginning. That being said, there is always joy in starting on another adventure.
A heron and other birdlife.
Flamingos.
Salt flat workers.
After a while we can exchange the busy road with a quieter gravel road. Getting closer to Olhão we pass by some salt flats, a sight I know we will see more of later. Pink flamingos are promenading in the water. Entering into Olhão we walk by the old bullring.
Salt falts of Algarve.
Saltlake.
Heron and another bird.
Before locating our hotel, we sit down at a seaside bar for a refreshment. The atmosphere and surroundings quite welcoming after the somewhat hectic surroundings on the walk. Olhão is a lovely town and we get to see a bit of it on the way to the hotel, Hotel Cidade de Olhão. At the back of the Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Rosário e Capela de Nosso Senhor dos Aflitos, there is an assembly of various votive gifts given to the church as pleas and thanks for healing. That some of the votive gifts appear like limbs from dolls gives it also a little bit creepy feeling.
Gansta graphitti welcoming us into Olhão.
House in Olhão, notice the fish hanging out to dry.
The old bullring in Olhão.
Our hotel is very nice, boasting a swimming pool. Needless to say, I jump always right in it. A good chill after a hot day.
Seaside bench in Olhão.
Laila, Gry and Jorun.
House in Olhão.
In the evening we go out for dinner, finding a great place next to the old mercado, Barra Prime. They serve barbecue skewers with meat or sea food hanging from a contraption. Quite cool, but as it is the first day and we are in Portugal, I have to have bacalao.
I never grow tired of these, the wonderful azulejos of Portugal.
Votive gifts hanging at the back of Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Rosário e Capela de Nosso Senhor dos Aflitos.
Dinner in Olhão, me, Jorun, Gry, Laila, Ulf and Karsten.
After a good evening we return to our hotel. A partially noisy walk, but with a nice time in Olhão and seeing Faro, I would see it was a decent first day.
Olhão building in the evening.
The area west of Faro that we walked through, seen from above, quite interesting display of colors. Picture taken from Google Maps.
Tavira // day 2 >>
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