Distance: 34.5km (65.5km).
Wake up to a chill morning, but also to a clear sky. From my campsite I can look over towards the Tjørnane cabin, but it appears to be all quiet there. I have no plan for where I will end up today, only a given distance if I were to keep the progress that I have set for myself.
Tjørnane.
From the lakes of Tjørnane, Valldalsleden is following the standard T-waymarked route up towards Illstigvatnet. This is the most infamous part of the whole pilgrim path. Known to keep snow long into the summer and including a section that is deemed exposed by many. If snow is present at the exposed section, getting past it could prove difficult.
The section next to the Illstigvatnet lake that could provide difficult if snow is present.
Illstigvatnet.
The lake is however situated in a lovely mountain scenery. There is a lone person out on a kayak in the lake, trying his luck fishing. No snow when I cross over the rocky sides next to the water full of scree. I find the exposed section less troublesome, but I do have some experience with scrambling and similar challenges from before. If there had been snow present, I guess I would have tried to go higher up to get around it.
Cairn, Reinheimen.
From the lake, the path progresses up towards the highest point of the pilgrim path, at Børrebottreset. This also marks the boundary between the Fjord and Rauma counties, both marked on their respective sides on the pilgrim poles present.
The border between Rauma and Norddal counties.
With mountains towering above on both sides, I follow the path downwards to the lakes at the bottom of the Børrebotnen. Down at the biggest unnamed lake, I have to stop to take in the view of the mountains, smelling the fresh air and brew a hot cup of coffee.
Looking down at Børrebotnen.
Down by the lakes in Børrebotnen.
Reinheimen has been a positive experience, it is the first time I have been trekking through this area. Descending, I come down to the Ulvådalen valley, now vegetation begins to stretch up towards the sky.
Towards Ulvådalen.
The second place to find accommodation when hiking through Reinheimen is found at Vakkerstøylen. This is another cabin run by the Norwegian Trekking Assocation (DNT), but unlike the Tjørnane cabin, this one is a self-served cabin, meaning food can be purchased. Although it is not staffed (you still have to prepare the food yourself).
Bridge over Hånådalselven before Vakkerstøylen.
Vakkerstøylen is as the name implies, quite beautiful (vakker translates to beautiful, støylen means a mountain farm). It is very cosy inside and is located at a beautiful spot overlooking the Ulvådalsvatnet lake. They have got chocolate and other sweet stuff here, which is totally unheard of when it comes to the usual food inventory at a DNT cabin. Good stuff for my coming evenings. I embrace the moment and prepares my lunch at one of the tables outside.
Vakkerstøylen cabin.
Walking next to Ulvådalsvatnet is nice, but is also at times cumbersome. Trees are mostly birch, which is very nice. I also spend more time than I think I do. After a while I get to a branch in the path, one turnoff leads over a bridge to a gravel road. That would be the easier way onwards, but the pilgrim path continues on the footpath towards Kabben.
Ulvådalsvatnet.
Valldalsleden path next to the Ulvådalsvatnet lake.
At Kabben, the path will follow another gravel road down to a bridge over the Ulvåa river, but there is another bridge that is way more interesting in that one. Detouring about 200m from the path, you will find a bridge made by an old method of laying logs out to provide leverage for the construction. No waymarks, though, and a path somewhat disappearing in tall grass, but it is recommended to seek it out.
Ulvåa river.
After crossing over the ‘normal’ bridge, Valldalsleden is following the gravel road for quite a long time. The walk is pleasant, but not special. When I again reach the shores of the Ulvåa river, I meet a couple that had overtaken me earlier. They stay at a camping van at a nice spot next to the river.
Kabbebrua, old log laying bridge restored in 1993-94.
From where Valldalsleden leaves the gravel track, the path is at times less discernible. Here the pilgrims have to rely on the waymarks to find the way. Sometimes I have to stop and look closely ahead to spot the next waymark, it is also at times necessary to walk a little bit further to see them. One of the waymarks is also found hanging at the wrong place away from the real path, but I do manage to follow the path correctly. On days with little visibility it could be hard to follow the path.
At Kabben.
Thankfully the walk is beautiful and in the perfect time as the evening sun is dousing the landscape in warm colours. The surface is clad in moss and heather, and there is space between the trees. Another county border is crossed at the Svaaå river. Finding the way makes me use longer time than usual and I am happy for it.
On the gravel road through Brøstdalen.
Arriving at the flowing water of the Asbjørnsåe river, where there is a much clearer path, I start looking for my campsite for the night. There is nothing really suitable right next to the path, but I manage to find a good and secluded spot a little away from the path.
Forest path after Brøstbrua.
Mountain pines on the path over towards Asbjørnsdalen.
Dinner is prepared next to river. It is nice sitting there watching the water gliding over the smooth rock surface, but it does make a bit of a noise.
Between Brøstbrua and Asbjørnsdalen.
A great day of hiking. From the mountainous scenery in Reinheimen to the lovely situated Vakkerstøylen cabin next to the Ulvådalsvatnet, ending at a wonderful walk through evening illuminated fairy tale woods.
Flowing water at Asbjørnsåe river.
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