Der Traumpfad // day 5 // Vorderriß - Hochalm

Der Traumpfad, day 5.
Distance: 25.4km (133.0km), time spent: 7:24.
Weather: Clear blue sky, thunderstorm.

The Karwendel Alps are an impressive ridgeline formed of limestone running from west to east (or the other way depending on how you see it), consisting of an equally impressive line of jugged peaks rising to over 2500m. Having finished with what is called the Bavarian pre-Alps (the Benediktenwand), it is also the first of the Alps the trail is passing over. Despite the miserable low clouds, the hike over the Benediktenwand was great, but now I am ready for the real deal, putting my feet in the Alps for the first time. Finally seeing a clear sky outside, is also extremely welcome.

Inside Gasthaus Post Vorderriß, this room is now only used for breakfast, but was normally open in the evenings too.

I find myself having breakfast in the room which I had hoped to sit down and relax in yesterday evening. From another guest on a motorbike trip I learn that they now only use this room for breakfast, but that they also used to to have this room open in the evening before. Something changed. He said he missed those times.

Roadwalk from Vorderriß, Vorderskopf at the back.

Morning light through trees next to the road.

Albeit the scenery around Vorderriß is brimming with mountains, it is no getting away from the fact that the first part of the hike today goes straight along a paved road. Thankfully the wonderful weather takes away some of the awareness of walking on a road, and it is not so busy either. Looming ahead is the 1858m summit of Vorderskopf. The others are walking together a little bit ahead, with me trailing behind. Not much water is actually running through the Risßach river now. After walking for about 4.5km, I arrive at the Oswaldhütte, a small restaurant in a farm. Good spot and time for a coffee break.

Hinterriß.

Narrow path towards the Johannestal.

Leaving the Oswaldhütte, I also leave Germany shortly after and enter into Austria on the Grenzbrücke. I am grateful to also leave the road shortly after that again, walking on a gravel track the rest of the way to Hinterriß. Pleasant enough, but I am starting to yearn for climbing up into the mountains above now. A little brownish snake slithers its way across the track. A fun fact about Hinterriß, it can only be reached by road from Germany (the same road I have been walking on).

Narrow gorge with the Johannesbach river running at the bottom, the Karwendel Alps main ridge in the distance.

There is a small museum here, attached to the National Park visitor centre, informing about the natural and cultural history of the Karwendel Alps. While the others are continuing ahead, I stop for some food at the restaurant attached to the Hotel Gasthof zur Post, eating a plain simply bratwürst. Suddenly a loud blaring alarm goes off in the village. All the others are all calm, so I stay calm too, but cannot wonder what it is for. A waiter answers my confusion and confirms my guess by telling me that is was a regular check of the emergency alarm.

Walk through the Johannestal valley, on one of the detours off the broad gravel track.

The beginning of the climb, leaving Hinterriß, has you walking through a bright forest on a wide gravel track, before it leaves it for a narrow footpath. Gradually I gain ground, before making the turn up into what is the Johannestal valley. Views are dominated by trees blocking the view, but then I emerge out of them and find myself looking down a narrow gorge. I get so excited by the view of the gorge that I have to walk back to the other side of the gorge after crossing it on a small bridge. Cutting through the bottom of the gorge is the Johannesbach river, now with the main Karwendel ridge rising in the background.

The main ridgeline of the Karwendel Alps.

Paramount in the horizon is that impressive ridgeline, dominating the view in the direction I am walking. Up the Johannestal, Der Traumpfad follows a dirt road (shared by the Bike Trail Tirol, beware of bikers coming fast down on the track) with occasional detours off the dirt road. The signs announcing where the route leaves the track are elusive and I miss at least one of these detours. Clouds are appearing on the sky, looking benevolent at first.

Looking back down the Johannestal, notice the mountains at the other side of the valley at the bottom, all clad in green.

The Karwendel Alps and the Bike Trail Tirol, the river running dry.

Even though the views are majestic and the weather is still good, there is something amiss, I am not entirely there in my mind. Maybe it is the broad path I am walking on that is responsible for that feeling, I always prefer those narrow winding paths before those broad and easily accessible tracks. On the other hand, it could just be tiredness, although the broad path makes for easy hiking. Water no longer flows in the river next to the trail, only the grey outline of the rocks at the bottom of it. Another biker comes wheeling past (the Karwendelhaus is a popular destination for bikers).

Kleiner Ahornboden.

Chalets and ancient maple trees at Kleiner Ahornboden.

Closer to the spectacular Karwendel ridge, the scenery gets more impressive. A sheer mountain wall rising in the distance is tangible, rising almost immediately next to you makes it feel intimidating. After having walked for about four hours since leaving Vorderriß, I arrive at the alpine meadow of Kleiner Ahornboden. Here ancient maple trees rises up from the verdant ground, a couple of traditional chalets lies in the shade of trees and a memorial to a Hermann Von Barth found (the old alpinist associated with the discovery of this mountain region and numerous first ascents of the surrounding peaks). A bit away, up on a hill opposite of where I am going, I see the Falkenhütte, now closed.

A thunderstorm approaching the Karwendel, view back from the climb up towards the Hochalmsattel.

Everything changes when the path leaves the Kleiner Ahornboden with its ancient maple trees and traditional built cabins. The path no longer is a broad easy track, but narrows down to a welcome path, ascending. Looking back across the valley, the announced thunderstorm has made its appearance, a dark sky has formed above and behind the mountains. And then suddenly everything fell into place, I feel calm and satisfied, more in my element. I am also walking more or less with the others now, Lea, Stefan, Michal, Julia and Miriam.

Walk up towards Hochalmsattel.

Coming out of the trees, the horizon has become darker, but there are still sunlight visible. Light and dark. The view is a mix of dark green, grey and dark blue. The first thunderclap is heard, the others seems to worry about not reaching the Karwendelhaus in time. Somewhere above me is the Birkkarspitz, the highest peak in the ridge at 2749m. I can see a cross high up, but that is the Hochalmkreuz (2192m).

Dark sky above the Karwendel Alps.

Steady climbing, the track winds its way up towards the Hochalmsattel (1803m), hikers and thunderstorm racing. Dramatic, but wonderful views. Another religious icon (the Jochkreuz) stands at the top of the pass. The first raindrop is felt, but now we are over the highest point of today and has only a short walk down to the alpine hut. A large cabin of stone and wood (bigger than I expected it to be), the Karwendelhaus is wonderfully located high up, overlooking the deep Karwendeltal.

The last stretch before arriving at the Karwendelhaus.

I am happy to have booked in advance, it is Saturday and the cabin is fully packed with people, both hikers and bikers. Expecting to be put in a room with several others, I am surprised to see that they have given me a small room for myself. Julia and Miriam had not booked, and are a little bit nervous regarding a place to sleep, but it all works out. We arrived just in time, in the moment I enter the bath room to do a provisional body wash, the sky opens up its valves. Rain is pounding down outside, with a firework to display. No showers at the cabin, but if I wanted one I could just go out to get it.

My room in the Karwendelhaus.

With the weather outside, it is no wonder the cabin is so full of people. A lot are waiting, seeking shelter from the rain and thunder, hoping that it will pass so that they can hike or bike down again. Other people arrives, soaked. Common for all of them, is that they are happy and smiling. The atmosphere and mood is absolutely wonderful, but the people working at the hut is extremely busy. I am on half-board, so I get a three course dinner for the evening.

In the evening in Karwendelhaus, Miriam, Stefan, Lea, me, Julia and Michal.

The thunderstorm finally passes by, leaving behind a gorgeous red sky in its wake as the sun is setting behind the rugged mountains. People not staying the night are getting ready to go down again and I go out to enjoy the views. A wonderful evening on a day that just got progressively better as I got higher and higher up. Before going to sleep, I spend some time in my little room to myself, relaxing. Good thing about having my own room is that I do not bother other people if I were to stay longer up, but I doubt that I will do so today.

Sunset over the Alps after the passing of the thunderstorm.

Tomorrow will be another day seeing the same weather pattern, although the manager at the cabin is expecting the thunderstorm to arrive earlier than today. Good thing then that the high point of the hike will be at the start and not the end. My days of booking ahead is over, but seeing all the people here made me a little bit nervous regarding getting a bed tomorrow. A part of me is still discontent by not bringing with me a tent, but wild camping as I have heard is illegal here. That is however a problem I will face tomorrow, now I just fall asleep happy with the day.

Karwendelhaus overlooking the Karwendeltal.

<< Vorderriß // day 4Halleranger // day 6 >>

Der Traumpfad // day 4 // Benediktenwand - Vorderriß

Der Traumpfad, day 4.
Distance: 19.1km (107.6km), time spent: 8:06.
Weather: Overcast and misty, some sunny, then cloudy.

Had trouble getting to sleep last night, and when I finally got to sleep, I was woken up by the youths making sounds outside. Not the best preparation for the second day of proper hiking then. Outside, the weather is stable, that is, it is the same as it has been for the last three days. A heavy blanket of clouds. Breakfast at the cabin consists of a good, but heavy, bread, with various toppings, yoghurt and coffee or tea. Solid, and quite good.

Leaving Tutzinger Hütte in the mist, with the north face of the Benediktenwand towering behind the thin clouds.

As told yesterday, I have a fixed destination for today. The walk there, to Vorderriß, is more or less another stage engineered to bring you closer to the Alps. Benediktenwand is more of an appetizer to count, but a great appetizer as that. On the positive side, the stage is said to be nothing close to the flat scenery of earlier, but will involve more forest walking. I am excited as I leave the Tutzinger Hütte and disappear into the mist outside.

The north face of Benediktenwand and a reminder that there is a sun out there.

A path above clouds, on the way up to the summit of Benediktenwand.

Yesterday, I had not hiked up to the summit of Benediktenwand. One reason partly being that the trail does not cross over the summit itself, but descends down towards the Tutzinger Hütte. The main reason was that I did not believe I would be seeing anything different from the summit than what I had already seen, given the low layer of clouds. I had also a little hope that it would be better today, which it is not. Going up would mean the view would be the same as today, and that is the argument I have with myself while I climb up through the landscape in mist. To go or not to go.

The Benediktenwand ridge. Looking back in the direction I came from yesterday, with clouds flowing fast over the ridge.

At the junction where the path goes up towards the summit, a decision has been made. I will go up, believing it to be a motivational booster for the walk today to see the sun. Climbing up will add about one hour and half according to the guidebook (including going down again). I climb up on a meandering path, emerging yet again above the clouds, greeted by the sun. Wonderful. When I reach the summit with its cross, at 1801m, I feel elevated again.

The highlight of the day, an ibex at the summit of Binediktenwand.

The view is still great (although I would like to have seen it without the clouds too), still the same, but more dramatic. Looking back towards the ridge that I walked over yesterday, I can see the clouds are higher up than then and it is more windy, the clouds are flowing fast over the ridge from one side to the other. I meet a woman who has slept out underneath the stars next to the cross. Great, too bad that I have not brought with me any equipment to do that. Best of all the views up there, is the view of the ibex sitting leisurely near the summit. Then it looks calmly at us, rises and walks elegantly down from the top. Far more elegant than I do afterwards.

Ibex standing on the path on the descent from Benediktenwand.

A winding descent through the woods.

Back at the junction, the trail heads down into the forest and mist. Wisps of smoke are drifting through the trees and so are the ibex. Many of them. They do not let me get close to them, but still at only a couple of metres away they do feel almost tame. The lack of blue sky today does not affect the scenery as much as it did earlier, as most of the path goes through woods. There are little or none views at all on the way down, only a few times are there windows, through them I can spot a landscape clad in trees and some very few farms between. The path is mostly good, but sometimes it is slippery, like it has been raining.

Misty views.

Leaving the darkest and most enclosing part of the woods and descent, the trail enters a forested valley opening up for my eyes, quite steep at times. Next to the path are some forgotten looking mountain farms and several nice waterfalls. The walk is really enjoyable, if it had not been for the pain I suddenly starts to feel in my feet. A pain I cannot understand why I get. Strain from my Pennine Way hike, now beginning to emerge? Too much flat walking in my mountain boots before finally climbing? Difficult to say, but at the bottom of all the waterfalls (at Glasbach Wasserfall) I find a bench, looking deliberately put there so I can rest my feet.

Opening view above the valley the Glasbach Wasserfall runs through, Lainlam at the bottom of the valley.

Descent towards Lainlalm.

Jachenau is sort of the midpoint of the hike today, but before I get there, I finish the descent from the Benediktenwand. Still hidden in the clouds above me. There is a small farm at the end of the climb down, where the trail meets a forest track, selling refreshments, Lainlalm. Cozy inside. Resting with a coffee (outside), I meet two women (German and Dutch) who are on their way to the Tutzinger Hütte, in preparation for a hike in Africa. From the farm, I have to walk a little on the forest track, before leaving it for a pleasant forest path all the way down to Jachenau.

Glasbach waterfalls.

In Jachenau, I am well beneath the clouds again. A pleasant little village with the Rathaus (town hall) well adorned with murals depicting various old carriages and shepherds out herding their flock. I have lunch at the Schützenhaus, schinkennudel mit ei. Loosening the laces of my shoes has helped, my feet feel better.

Inside the cozy farm Lainlalm.

The trail leaves Jachenau by way of several fields, with a little uncertainty as to where the path goes (but the signpost pointing out into the fields had Venedig written on it). A dog at a quite huge farm comes a little bit too close for my comfort, its eyes not the most friendliest I have seen. Uncertainty is also what I face when the trail heads up into the hills and forests, but I find the correct path. As soon as the vague and narrow path has been confirmed to be the correct one, it slowly changes to be a wide forest path. Only by taking the narrow path shall you find the correct way?

Jachenau Rathaus (town hall).

Looking back towards the mountains after leaving Jachenau.

Despite not going as high up as the traverse over the Benediktenwand, the hike over this mountain towards Vorderriß, has more of a remote feeling to it. Or a more modest and solemn feeling. The wide path makes it way upward with the trees blocking the view down. Junctions gives various choices of where to go towards Vorderriß. If you do not know which of them is Der Traumpfad, you will get to the correct destination probably, but might not be following the correct path. On the signposts I can also read that there is pilgrim road crossing over here (pilgernweg).

Ascent from Jachenau.

I have not seen anyone of the others that I met yesterday, whom also are hiking Der Traumpfad, but I believe they wanted to start earlier than me. In fact, I have been hiking all alone for most the day today, only briefly meeting other people, on the last part down to Jachenau. Here I walk all alone. The only signs of other people are the smoke rising from the chimney at the Lainer Alm, another small lonesome farm located in the middle of a green meadow. A sign advertise that they are selling refreshments and something to eat, and that they have buttermilk.

Lainer Alm, smoke rising from the chimney.

A short walk through another section of trees in the forest brings me to another alm, Luitpolder Alm. All empty and quiet here. From here, care is needed to find the correct way and I cannot hide that at a time I begin to wonder if I have taken the right path. Signposts are meagre. A forest track not marked on my map comes in from the right, but then one of the extremely few waymarkers of the path (490) I am to follow appear. All of the sudden, and all is well.

Another religious icon found next to the path.

The climb down to Vorderriß from the Rißsattel is the most anticipated descent today, being described as the first of several knee-crunching descents on Der Traumpfad. Through windows between the trees I can look down at the Risßach river, running down the valley I will be walking up tomorrow. The Alps are dark shadows at the end of the view. The river is a pale and winding thread through the landscape, mirroring the color on the sky. Even with an icon passed by on the path, depicting a man that has fallen down and with a tree fallen on top of him, is the descent anything but a good and solid path. No slipping, no treacherous surface, just good walking. Emerging out of the woods onto a road, I walk the few metres to the charming looking Gasthaus Post Vorderriß.

View of the Risßach river from the Rißsattel.

All the others have already arrived, I meet them on the outside restaurant. A pleasant evening, despite that they spoke a little too much German between them (I do not speak German). The weather is supposed to be better tomorrow, but there are warnings of a thunderstorm in the evening. When I booked the place, I looked at the pictures from the gasthaus, it looked very cozy inside, but the room that I had seen on the website is closed. Anyway, it is good to sit outside. Surprisingly enough, they close early, so I retreat to my room where I relax and eat the rest of the potato chips that I had brough with me from Bad Tölz.

Good path to Vorderriß.

A good day all in all, mostly an atmospheric hike through forests. Still, the highlight was the climb up to the summit of Benediktenwand with the ibex. Tomorrow I begin the first proper climb into the Alps (the Karwendel Alps).

Gasthaus Post Vorderriß.

<< Benediktenwand // day 3Hochalm // day 5 >>

Der Traumpfad // day 3 // Bad Tölz - Benediktenwand

Der Traumpfad, day 3.
Distance: 21.8km (88.5km), time spent: 9:04.
Weather: Grey and depressing, a different story higher up.

Today was to be the day when I finally got to the mountains and started climbing, the day when the real adventure should begin, but it is hard to believe that when I look out of the window in the morning. If anything, the weather is actually worse. Yesterday it was also grey and gloomy, but there was with some hope in it, now it is downright depressing. Somewhere hidden in the grey blanket in front of my eyes, lies Benediktenwand, the first taste of the mountains to come. It would seem that I have to tackle that ridgeline in fog, it is not a motivating thought.

Leaving Bad Tölz in the morning.

The day is a walk split into two halves, one half continuing in the flat landscape of the two first days, one half the steep ascent and traverse of the jugged ridgeline of the Benediktenwand. Leaving Bad Tölz it is back to the flat scenery next to the Isar river again. In other circumstances I think it may have been a satisfying walk, but I feel a little bit drained and tired of the depressing weather now. Everything that I see that resembles any kind of elevated scenery is just disappearing into the clouds, to the extent that I feel like I am more walking in Denmark than in an area surrounded by mountains.

Walking through a flat and empty scenery, all mountains obscured by clouds.

Approaching Arzbach, here the Alps would normally be visible in the background.

It goes as far that at one point I feel the need to sit down and think through what I am doing and why. I feel demotivated, despite trying to keep my spirits high as much as I can, but I am fighting against my own expectations and that is a hard fight at times. In the end I have to scold myself into motion and keep on, it will be better, it always does. It might be good sign that I find myself chuckling a little when I approach the small village of Arzbach. In the guidebook, the village is depicted with the Alps in the background, all I can see is a grey nothingness.

Approaching the climb towards Benediktenwand after Lenggries, the whole of the mountain hidden in the clouds.

After walking for about 10km through the bland scenery, I arrive at Lenggries. It is from here the trail turns towards the mountains and the Benediktenwand, but they are only partially visible. I stop for a coffee break at a café in the village. I check my GPS track for the hike to the Tutzinger Hütte, as expected it does not work, I would have to rely on my map up there in the clouds. It depicts quite the network of paths.

View from below the clouds.

Ascent in mist.

The real climb starts from the ski station above Lengries. Venturing into the clouds, I briefly meet a young woman who believes it to be far better higher up. Given the thick clouds above me, I find that hard to believe. By now I have succumbed to the thought of spending the rest of the day in fog, which eases the passage into them. It is kind of entering a mystical realm when the mist steals the scenery around you. For all my yearnings of climbing the Benediktenwand with a clear view of the Alps, I cannot deny the fact that I also enjoy walking in 'mistical' surroundings, it is just not what I had hoped for today. Thankfully, the mist is probably also hiding some of the awful ski paraphernalia from the view.

Speichersee Garland, and blue sky is suddenly appearing above me.

Miracles, of course, do happens.

View from above the clouds.

Having climbed for a while, the hue of the sky is slowly turning blue. And suddenly I am in that twilight zone between mist and clear sky, it is a vigorous moment. The young woman I passed by at the start of the climb was right. When I am up at the cable car station at the top, I can look out across a landscape that is more like an ocean of clouds. Like cliffs rising up from the depths of the sea are the Alps. The ridge of the Benediktenwand is sort of swimming up and down in the sea ahead of me like an ancient serpent or sea monster, and I will be climbing on its back while it does so. Up here and down below the clouds are two different worlds. I celebrate by having a sausage and a beer for lunch at the Brauneckhaus, before I climb up to the top with cross above (Brauneck-Gipfel) and continue my now dreamlike walk.

The Brauneck Gipfel (aka the top of the Brauneck) with its gipfelkreuz (summit cross). Bavaria underneath the clouds.

A beautiful ridgewalk from Brauneck towards Latschenkopf.

Despite having warmed up by the climb up, the change from the flat path to this undulating path is noticeable. The path winds its way up, down and next to the ridgeline. Fully escaping the clouds though, is not entirely possible, as at times wisps of mist comes streaming over the ridge. The best view is to the south, most of the clouds that streams over the ridge comes from the north, blocking the view thither. There is less worry when it comes to finding the way, just keep to the path that stays closest to the top of the ridge.

A ridge in clouds, view from the Vorderer-Kirchstein.

My mood was definitely left behind underneath the clouds, I am all smile now, walking at the top of a green ridge with views of the Alps in the distance and the mountainsides below me disappearing down into the clouds. Behind me the Brauneck disappear in and out of view. I step off the trail and climb up to the top of Vorderer-Kirchstein (1670m), followed by the climb up to the highest point of today, the Latschenkopf at 1712m. Both peaks has a cross as the top, as well as great views. I am fascinated by what people put at the summit of peaks. Here they erect crosses, back home in Norway we usually build cairns, in Korea they put stele monuments, in Japan they make shrines.

View from Latschenkopf.

Up to now, the ridgewalk has been fairly easy, but after Latschenkopf the climb gets into another gear. The descent to the Feichtecksattel is at times steep and on an uneven path with loose stones. All the time with wonderful view of the ridge ahead, with peaks like islands in a sea in the horizon. From the Feichtecksattel there is an option to bypass the exposed parts of the main trail going over the Achseslköpfe. Not an option for me. Again this strange feeling that I suddenly appeared in the mountains, it was such an abrupt change from the flat scenery of before.

Benediktenwand rising from the clouds.

A ladder assists the hikers on the climb up towards Achseslköpfe.

The most exhilerating, but also the most demanding, walk follows after the Feichtecksattel. Here the ascent and descent of the Achseslköpfe is assisted by both ropes and ladders, with the path being treacherous sometimes. The descent is particularly steep, but exciting too. Having a break after coming down from the last climb, it is amusing to look back at where I have come down from, I could not see how narrow the ridge was when descending.

View down from the Benediktenwand, green meadows and trees disappearing down into the clouds, views of the Alps above the clouds in the horizon.

I have come to the point where the trail descends down towards the Tutzinger Hütte. Here there is also a path that heads up towards and going over the summit of Benediktenwand, it is tempting to take that path, but I stick to the trail (I do not expect to see so much more from the ridge now). And heads down into the fog again. The sheer cliffside of the Benediktenwand is rising straight up from the clouds, like it is cut in half. Then it is back to that twilight zone again, between mist and clear sky. The sun plays strange games with the light and the world goes quieter as I descend. I can hear voices coming from somewhere. I pass by a young couple that is on the same mission as I am.

A sea of clouds.

Warned that the Tutzinger Hütte could be very busy at times, I had booked a bed in advance. Not something that I usually like, but it sounded reasonable to do so. In the end, I ended up booking the first five nights, as my fifth night would also be in a very popular hut (the Karwendelhaus) and it would be on a Saturday as well. Then I could just as well book the fourth night, but after that I would try to book as little as I can in advance. There is a little bit loss of adventure in always booking ahead.

Looking back at the Achseslköpfe, seeing the narrow ridge I have just climbed down.

The Tutzinger Hütte, suddenly appearing in the mist, is my first experience of staying in a mountain cabin in the Alps (let us call it that for the moment). It feels quite similar to the staffed mountain cabins we have here in Norway, I get a bed in a shared room and a shower before settling in for the afternoon and evening. As warned, it is busy here, there appear to be a school class here. It is a cosy place, especially with the fog outside. I meet again the young woman, Julia, who reveals that she also is walking Der Traumpfad. Suddenly they have appeared too, the other Traumpfad-hikers, there are others here too. I have kasspatzen for dinner, which is like noodles with cheese.

Sunlight breaking on the Benediktenwand.

Descent into the clouds again, with the north face of the Benediktenwand rising straight up from the layer of clouds.

First part of today was a solid letdown, where I felt I lost my motivation for this hike. Then the second half of the day arrived and restored everything in an instant, it was a wonderful ridgewalk over the Benediktenwand rising up from the clouds. It was also a solid reminder to myself not to give up too early, another way of having faith. In all a good day ending in a pleasant evening in an Alpenverein cabin.

Tutzinger Hütte in the fog.

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