I come down from Monte Ritondu in bright sunshine, still high after the climb to the summit. At Petra Piana the wanderers from yesterday has been replaced with new ones. After a break in the sun I take down the tent and pack together my backpack. From Petra Piana I have two choices to choose from, 'Par la vallée' or 'Par les crêtes'. 'Par les crêtes' will take me over the ridge to Refuge de l'Onda and is the high-level variant, this path beckon with a great view from the ridge, in addition to being faster.
On the way down from Petra Piana. The path goes down towards the valley and through the woods before it goes upwards again to Refuge de l'Onda.
'Par la vallée' however goes down in the woods in the valley below the ridge, but is also the original route of the GR20. I choose to go down in the valley. From Monte Ritondu I've already seen most of the view that is available, so a walk along a river through a pleasant forest is more tempting.
A GR-marker almost overgrown.
And by doing so I adds yet some height meters to what I've already has gained by going down from Monte Ritondu, and I can with safety say that it is steep down as well. Its nice then that in some parts the path is build up by a nice fence made of stone on one side. I walk past Bergeries de Gialgi; some other hikers are passing by in the opposite direction. Down in the valley I can look up towards Petra Piana high above, but the cabin and the campsite is hidden for my eyes.
The path going down to the valley, it looks like a stone fence has been built by the side of it.
I'm walking past ruins of old stone huts, their demise frozen in the tracks of times past. Ruisseau de Manganellu is running in twists and turns down the valley at my right side, trees increases in scale and size. Soon the forest is all around me, a peaceful and relaxing walk. The time flows silently through the sunrays among the trees.
View back up towards Petra Piana, now hidden from sight.
Green pools beckons from the river. And finally, there is no way around it. I have to get into the water. The water is cold, but refreshing. Afterwards I sit on the rocks and warms up in the sun. Above me the wind is blowing almost soundlessly through the leaves.
Bathing in the Ruisseau de Manganellu. The river with its green and beckoning pools was too tempting.
Through the forest on my way to Bergeries de Tolla.
I arrive at the Bergeries de Tolla. There are autumn colors on the ground, two horses grazes free outside the cabin. It is a tranquil little place, but there are probably more people here during the summer. It is a good time to take a break; I buy myself a cold Pietra and eat some food. The horses position themselves just outside the gate and are looking in anticipation at me, they are probably hungry they as well.
Two horses in a pasture outside a small summer farm. Autumn colors on the ground.
Towards Refuge de l'Onda it goes upwards again. Here the forest are denser, making it look gloomier than it is. The trail is turning towards the mountains again. I walk clear off the woods and arrive at the fenced camping area at Bergeries de l'Onda. Here it is both an auberge and a refuge; the cabin itself lies a little bit above the camping area and the auberge. When the whole herd of goats comes down from the mountain you understand why there is a fence around the camping area.
Bergeries de Tolla, where you can buy typical Corsican food, like chees and sausage.
I eat dinner at the auberge. They serve soup as a starter, mutton as primary dish, and then cheese and fruit as dessert. One of the best dinners so far. It gets quite cheery around the table during the dinner. I haven't seen Matthew, Andrew and Paul, the three boys from England I've met, after I've came to l'Onda. So during the dinner I start to wonder if something has happened, they should have arrived. Later I get to know that they choose to stay back at Petra Piana in the great weather.
Gloomy through the forest on the way to Refuge de l'Onda.
A great day goes towards the end, and the longest day on the journey so far. I have a vague memory of a starry sky when I go to bed inside my tent.
The camping area at Refuge de l'Onda, goats surrounding the area.
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