Saturday, July 24, 2021

Valldalsleden // day 5 // Lesja - Fokstugu

Valldalsleden, day 5.
Distance: 28.0km (165.3km).


It is the final day on the Valldalsleden path, not the exact final stage, but the last stage before it joins forces with Gudbrandsdalsleden the rest of the way to Nidaros. Breakfast is made and served by myself, before I clean up in the cabin and ventures out on another late start.

Passing by a cairn in Aurtandefeltet.

Having read the guidebook, I do not have the highest expectations of this stage. There seems be a lot of walking next to a highway today. Things will get better at the end of the day, but the start could also be a part that could salvaging the walk today.

Remains of an old homestead called Steen in Aurtandefeltet.

Valldalsleden going through Aurtandefeltet.

From Lesja, the path goes up into the woods where if you are not a strict purist there are some alternatives to choose from. Aurtandefeltet is an area where there has been known settlements from a long time ago, such as tombs, cairns, and old house foundations, between 200 and 300 of them are found. And also findings dating back to the iron age. Close to every one of these historical places there are small signposts telling one where to find them and with some info about the location.

View over Lesja.

Leaving the old fields, the path goes on through the woods, carrying off up and down with sudden views of the valley below.

This part of the Valldalsleden pilgrim path going above the valley.

Eventually the scenic walking through the forest ends and I encounter the not entirely dreaded highway, but it is also not the most anticipated part either. The good part is that the pilgrim path follows a pedestrian walkway next to the highway for most of the time, the bad part is of course that the highway is so close next to you.

A barn overlooking the valley just below the road.

At least there is a good view of the valley while walking alongside the road. At one point I just go off daydreaming, following a road down from the highway, then realising that it is not the correct way and has to return upwards again.

Walking next to the road towards Dombås.

Down at the bottom of the valley I can see a quiet road meandering, a part of me wishes that the pilgrim path would have followed that road instead. For despite the nice views, the noise from the highway is there all the time, a view with a noise.

An abandoned house.

An abandoned place is passed by, probably due to the highway, would be no charm living there with cars racing by. I can look in through the windows, the vegetation is growing uncontested outside.

View of Jori river from Jora bridge.

It is a long walk next to the road, but eventually I arrive at Dombås. Maybe the noisy walk is a good way to prepare the pilgrims for the arrival at Dombås. At least for my part, for the centre is crammed with people. Positioned at the junction between Gudbrandsdalen, Romsdalen and Dovre, Dombås is the nexus between all the roads. For all my relatively quiet time on the walk, coming here is a small shock to the system, given all the crowds of people.

A naughty garden goblin.

Despite the constant humming and murmur from the people, I sit down for lunch at a restaurant. Be aware that Dombås is the last place to buy any provisions before the hike over the mountains of Dovre to Oppdal if needed.

Dombås church all wrapped in plastic due to renovations, visible in the background is the road Valldalsleden is going next to.

From Dombås is Valldalsleden starting its final solitary walk on its way to Nidaros. It follows the old way of ‘Gamle fjellveg’. Monotonous at start, with the same trees passing by on both sides, it eventually becomes nicer as the air gets fresher and vegetation sparser.

On Gamlevegen from Dombås.

The plains of Dovre appears in front of me, I can look up towards where the Gudbrandsdalsleden path is coming down from Allemannsrøysen. For no apparent reasons, a man is making cow sounds as I pass by.

On the old way towards Dovre.

When I walked Gudbrandsdalsleden to Trondheim last year, Fokstugu was closed due to the pandemic. Now they are open and since I am curious about how it is to stay here, I had phoned yesterday and got a room for tonight. Fokstugu has accommodated travellers and pilgrims for many years. The first place here was built in 1120 in order to make the passage over the mountains safer for the pilgrims. Today sheep farming is the main income for the farm.

Here does the two pilgrim paths, Gudbrandsdalsleden and Valldalsleden, join.

Fokstugu Fjellstue.

No food is served here, but if you do not want to carry with you food for your stay, they have some groceries for sale if needed. The rooms are old and nice, and some of the common rooms you are free to use are providing a taste of the old times. Atmospheric is the essence.

Snøhetta.

One of the old buildings at Fokstugu has been turned into a chapel and they hold a pilgrim service here every day during the main season. I am not particularly religious of me, despite holding going on pilgrimages in high esteem, but I have no problem attending the service. Afterwards I have a nice conversation with the host at Fokstugu and the vicar.

View from Fokstugu.

The light behind the old buildings is wonderful as the sun is setting behind the mountains. I keep on wondering how the life must have been here in the old times, especially during the winter.

Inside what was the old hotel at Fokstugu.

This final stage of Valldalsleden before joining the main pilgrim route in Norway is a less interesting stage. With the exception of the walk through the Aurtande field and the part where the pilgrims finally emerge out onto the mountain scenery of Dovre, the going is less interesting, quite noisy, and hard on the feet.

The chapel at Fokstugu Fjellstue.

Tomorrow I will be back on known grounds, but not altogether.

Sunset at Fokstugu.

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