Distance: 27.8km (193.1km).
Over the Dovre mountains the pilgrim path to Trondheim or Nidaros is following the old Royal way (or ‘Gamle Kongevegen’). However, there is another and older way over the mountains, which barely is in use these days. Given that I walked Gamle Kongevegen last year, I have decided to try to follow the Gautstigen path, as the older route is named.
Both the Gamle Kongevegen and Gautstigen routes begin from the old farm of Budsjord at the foot of the mountains. Whereas Gamle Kongevegen climbs up to the huge cairn at Allemannsrøysen and then heads down towards Fokstugu before it continues in the direction of Hjerkinn, Gautstigen instead climbs up into the mountains and stays there until it descends to Gautåsætre, where it joins the old Royal way some 40 kilometres later. There are no amenities to be found in between.
The waymark of the Gautstigen route is a green G, but the last time they were maintained was back in 1990. Given the unknown state of the waymarks, finding the way could be difficult. There is a path marked on my map, also diffusedly named Gautstigen, but it is unknown if it really is following the original course of the trail.
In order to walk Gautstigen I have to go in the opposite direction on the pilgrim path from Fokstugu, back towards Budsjord over Hardbakken and Allemannsrøysen.
Scene from a livingroom in Fokstugu.
Waymark for the old Royal road over the mountains, Gamle Kongevegen.
Up towards Allemannsrøysen.
Allemannsrøysen cairn with the Snøhetta massif in the background.
Walking with a view of Lesja, where I walked earlier on Valldalsleden.
Down from Allemannsrøysen towards Budsjord and Dovre.
Råådåe.
View of Dovre (the village).
At Budsjord.
The junction at Budsjord where one has to choose between walking Kongevegen or Gautstigen.
It is a walk where I meet a young pilgrim dressed as they would walk in old times, in a pair of sandals and linen clothes he has walked all the way from Oslo.
It is a walk past the huge cairn at Allemannsrøysen, collecting stones carried by pilgrims from far away, with views of the tallest peak in Norway outside of Jotunheimen, Snøhetta.
And at Budsjord, between the old buildings having shared their part of the history, a group of guests are now sharing their memories of the day.
Where the walk from Budsjord is a walk that is steep from the beginning all the way up to the plains below Hønkollen. Where the lost waymarks are an omen of what to expect for later as I struggle to locate the path behind a farm.
And another omen arrives as dark clouds suddenly travels across the sky, with a lightning strike hitting the summit of Storhøe directly ahead of me.
A moment of contemplation as I sit down to watch which way the thunderstorm is moving, seeing in the end that it is moving in the same direction as I do, following the old way over the mountains. Only higher up in the sky.
Maybe the thunderstorm can see where the trail is going. For down here, the path alternates between being visible and not. And I pass by several other paths, are they the trail I should be following or am I still on Gautstigen?
And I walk, with no pilgrims from the past to guide me. Only the remains of the path they once trod. On rocks next to the path I walk, there are traces of green paint, sometimes a complete G.
And I walk, with no one else to see in the plateau surrounding me.
Seeing no crucian carps in Karrustjern either. Where munks in old times set out crucian carps in the small lake, thus giving it its name (Karrus is crucian carp, tjern is a small lake or pond), this in order to provide food for the next time they had to pass over the mountains.
Where I find a place to camp beneath the small outcrop of Fremste Veslfjellet. Drinking in the clean mountain air from its viewpoint as the sun leaves me to visit the people on the other side of the globe.
Hidden in the rocks are small shelters built by stone, hideouts for old robbers of old?
Waymark for Gautstigen, a green G.
Up from Budsjord, Kongevegen leading up towards Allemannsrøysen can be seen at upper right.
Dark clouds on the sky as I approach Haugesætri.
Thunderstorm over Storhøe.
I am not overly fond of taking pictures of myself, but sometimes I do it. Here I am having a coffee break at some remote cabins next to where Gautstigen is passing by.
Another kind of worn waymark for Gautstigen, seen above some old cabins (the one I had my coffee break at is the one to the right).
Gautstigen.
Rondane seen from Fremste Veslfjellet.
Looking back from Fremste Veslfjellet.
A somewhat hidden shelter at Fremste Veslfjellet.
Luckily the thunderstorm raced ahead of me, and I could walk in nice weather. Finding the path did not prove too difficult, although it was not always apparent that I was on the right track. With low visibility it would be more difficult. The walk is however lovely, going through an open landscape surrounded by the more or less rolling peaks of Dovre.
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