Distance: 31.0km (31.0km).
The sky is everything but optimistic here I sit in my tiny and convoluted place at a campsite in Åndalsnes. It bears every sign of imminent rain and is quite ominous in its appearance. I had arrived in Åndalsnes with nowhere to stay and there were no places with available beds to find either. Even the campsite I finally got to was completely full, but thankfully they allowed me to pitch my tent if I was able to squeeze it in at a designated place.
Trollstigen.
The café at the restaurant was also closed when I arrived, and I did not bother to go all the way back to the centre of Åndalsnes to get some food (and drinks). Luckily for me I had one slice of bread left, and a bottle of Coke. It was not the most memorable evening I have had before the beginning of a long walk. Rather the opposite.
Valldal.
Åndalsnes, famous for the scenic sights of Romsdalseggen, Trollstigen and Romsdalen, was however just a stopover for my destination. The next morning, I take the bus over towards Valldal, driving over Trollstigen all in rain and fog, the starting point of my next adventure.
Olavskorset.
In the Winter of 1028-1029 was Olav den Hellige on the run from a more powerful king (Knut den Mektige). With a significant smaller fleet of ships, he set shore in Valldal and led the remaining faithful men over the mountains to Gudbrandsdalen and from there further on through Sweden to Novgorod. This is the backstory of Valldalsleden, the pilgrim path starting at Valldal, which connects with the Gudbrandsdalsleden path from Oslo at Dovre, ending at Nidarosdomen in Trondheim.
Valldal valley.
Monument to Døving chapel, which no longer is standing here.
Valldal is a small and charming place with white houses located next to Storfjorden. From its start at the pier right next to the water, the pilgrim path passes by the church and the charming Fjellro hotel. Above lies Syltefjellet, which carries the mark of another legend attached to Olav den Hellige. It is said that huge sea serpent attacked Olav den Hellige and his men upon their arrival at Valldal. After a hard fight Olav den Hellige threw the sea serpent so hard at the side of the mountain that one can still see the mark today.
Walking up through the Valldal valley on the first day on Valldalsleden.
Apart from the first part after Valldal, which goes on a pleasant path through woods passing by Olavskorset (‘The Cross of Olav’), the walk up through the Valldal valley goes on hard surface. Bearing in mind the steep mountains lined up on both sides of the valley and the beauty of it, it matters little as the road the pilgrim path goes on is fairly quiet.
An old loft next to the path.
Holsbrua bridge.
Valldal is also known as the primary place for growing strawberries in Norway. Walking through the valley, I pass by strawberry fields with workers at large picking the red juicy berries.
Holsfossen Elverk.
Where Valldalsleden crosses the Valldøla before entering another woodland path, it is possible to go down to the river and underneath the Holsbrua bridge on a boardwalk and ladder. On the upside of the bridge there is an old power station, Holsfossen Elverk, with the river gushing down some rapids next to it. This was built in 1920 and produced power until 1948. Take away the bridge and the road and this would be a very scenic spot. It still is, but the road lessens the impression a bit.
Valldalsleden is here going near the Valldøla river.
Valldalsleden waymarks.
The rest of the walk up through the valley is mostly following the river on a pleasant, but at times cumbersome path. At Skjervsura, a field of scree and large boulders, Olav den Hellige was said to get his men to move boulders believed to be unmovable by any man. Now, the walk takes me past boulders green from moss, illuminated by the sun.
Gudbrandsjuvet gorge.
Other places attached to the myth of Olav den Hellige are passed by. A cluster of boulders creating a natural shelter is said to be a resting place of him, giving it the name of Olavshelleren. Nearby is another of the many water sources carrying his name, Olavsskjelda.
Olavshelleren.
Skjervsura.
Juvet Hotel is a fashionable and architectural hotel known from being the location for the Ex Machina-movie by Alex Garland. It is interesting walking past it noticing how different the location really is from what is shown in it. In the movie, the place is surrounded by deep vegetation being far into the wild. I really enjoy the movie, though, but do not come here expecting to see the same scenery, although it is still beautiful.
Alstadfjellet.
Juvet has got its name from the gorge nearby, Gudbrandsjuvet. It is found a short walk from the pilgrim path and well worth the small detour. I have lunch in the café next to it.
Towards Grønningsæter.
Valldalsleden is beginning its ascent into the Reinheimen mountain at Grønningsætra. Although somewhat steep, the path up is nice to walk on, appearing to be an old carriage track.
Ascent to Reinheimen.
The climb ends at the old and scenic mountain farm of Steindalsstølen with the air crisp and fresh. Further up into the valley I meet three hunters. They are out to hunt wolverines, up to a certain quota, which has been reported to cause some trouble for the local farmers.
Steindalsstølen.
I carry a tent with me, but for the pilgrims on Valldalsleden that wants to sleep inside, the hike through Reinheimen will be the most difficult section of the pilgrimage. There are two cabins located on the pilgrim path that can be used, with the first one being the cabin at Tjørnane. This is an unserved cabin run by the Norwegian trekking association, DNT. Being unserved, it means that there is no food available at the cabin (contrary to what is written in the guidebook), the guests have to carry with them what food and drinks they need (beds, firewood and cooking equipment is though available).
Steindalen in the Reinheimen mountains.
Inside the Tjørnane cabin is a young couple, they let me come inside and talk for a little while. The girl tells me that her grandfather had participated in building the cabin. It is very nicely located cabin.
Reinheimen.V\
When I leave the cabin, it has become considerably colder outside. The sun had left me hours ago, but makes a surprise short return where I find my campsite for the. It makes for some wonderful moments where its fiery appearance is reflected in small ponds on the barren rock.
Waymarks, both pilgrim path and the t-marked DNT path, on standing stones.
With the light dwindling, I prepare and eat my dinner next to the lake. The only thing bothering me a little is the usual swarms of bugs. Finally, I retreat to my tent.
Tjørnane cabin.
The first day on the Valldalsleden pilgrim path is actually a very nice and scenic walk. There are sections with hard surface underfoot, but I feel that the quiet road and surrounding mountains do make up for it. I walked further than most pilgrim will do, but there are places to stay for those not wanting to walk as long as I do. The best place to find a place to stay after leaving Valldal is at Alstad (where you also find the Juvet Hotel, although that place counts as in the extreme upper region when it comes to prices).
Evening at Tjørnane.
Asbjørnsåe // day 2 >>
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