Massiv

Massiv is a long distance trail that goes through four massive mountain areas in Norway, hence the name, Massiv and iv. The trail begins at Sota Sæter in Breheimen and ends at Haukeliseter on Hardangervidda. It is about 350km long and the mountain areas that it passes through are Breheimen, Jotunheimen, Skarvheimen and Hardangervidda.

In the summer of 2016 I traveled to Haukelister to hike the first part of Massiv through Hardangervidda, to Finse. I went back to Finse in the summer of 2017 to continue further on Massiv. And finally I completed the trail in the summer of 2018, walking from where I left off at Sognefjellshytta to Sota Sæter.

Day   1 (01.08.16):Haukeliseter - Sandflofossen

Day   2 (02.08.16):Sandflofossen - Grøndalsvatni

Day   3 (03.08.16):Grøndalsvatni - Hårteigen - Litlos

Day   4 (04.08.16):Litlos - Reinsmyrtjørna

Day   5 (05.08.16):Reinsmyrtjørna - Stigstu

Day   6 (06.08.16):Stigstu - Finnsbergvatnet

Day   7 (07.08.16):Finnsbergvatnet - Finse

Day   8 (26.07.17):Finse - Geitryggvatnet

Day   9 (27.07.17):Geitryggvatnet - Iungsdalshytta

Day 10 (28.07.17):Iungsdalshytta - Breistølen

Day 11 (29.07.17):Breistølen - Nedre Skavlegiltjernet

Day 12 (30.07.17):Nedre Skavlegiltjernet - Slettningsbu

Day 13 (31.07.17):Slettningsbu - Sløtatjernet

Day 14 (01.08.17):Sløtatjernet - Skogadalsbøen

Day 15 (02.08.17):Skogadalsbøen - Fannaråken

Day 16 (03.08.17):Sunrise at Fannaråken

Day 16 (03.08.17):Fannaråken - Kongsdøla

Day 17 (03.08.17):Kongsdøla - Sognefjellshytta

Day 18 (23.07.18):Sognefjellshytta - Aurkvee

Day 19 (24.07.18):Aurkvee - Fivlemyrane

Day 20 (25.07.18):Fivlemyrane - Sota Sæter

Massiv // day 20 // Fivlemyrane - Sota Sæter

Massiv day 20.
Distance: 19.6km (403.5km), time spent: 9:53 (166:09).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1028m / 724m / 1633m.
Weather: Heavy rain in the night, rain in the morning, then overcast.

It poured down during the night, feeling like a deluge of almost biblical proportions. At one point, I looked out of the inner tent to see the wind pounding the outer tent so hard that it hammered the rain straight through it. It was raining inside the tent as well. It is probably high time to re-impregnate my tent. However, I was still warm and dry where I lay inside the inner tent.

Fivlemyrane in the morning, looking towards Fortundalsbreen.

It is still raining outside when it is time to wake up, but it has abated some. I eat my breakfast and then start packing. It is completely useless to try to get the tent anything dry. The moment I have finished shaking the tent partly free from water, another shower begins and it gets just as wet again. I will carry some additional kilos on my back today. Not a cherishing thought, as I carry far too much already.

Walking up from Fivlemyrane, Fortundalsbreen in the horizon.

Thankfully the rain stops shortly after I start my final walk on Massiv, although the clouds still lies oppressively across the mountains. At the end of the valley, one arm of the Fortundalsbreen glacier is appearing from underneath the drifting clouds. One route to Sota Sæter does cross that glacier, but to choose that way you need to have experience in walking on glaciers (and the necessary equipment). I will instead have to take the route going past the Illvatnet lake. On the way to the junction between those two paths, some tiny patches of blue sky appears.

Looking out across Illvatnet, rocks on all sides of the lake.

The path up to the infamous Illvatnet goes upwards through a barren area with a feeling that I never really get there. I have not expected to meet anyone soon, with the time it takes to walk from Sota Sæter and that the terrain around Illvatnet is said be almost unsuitable for camping. Even so, on the way up I come across another person. A sole mountain runner, which explains the fast time used to cover the distance from Sota Sæter. He is running to Sognefjellshytta, so has still some distance and elevations ahead of him. It looks chilly to run in this weather, but if he keeps it going he will hold his warmth.

A cold river crossing. It appear that it was possible to jump from stone to stone across, but the current was strong and would have driven the water above the height of my shoes.

Reaching Illvatnet, I can somehow see how it has gained its reputation. It is a quite large lake surrounded by large rocks on all sides. Last evening at Nørdstedalseter I met a man who told me that his father and mother had never forgot the time it took them over three hours to walk around the lake. In my mind, I feel that I should be able to do it quicker.

Illvatnet.

However, after walking for a while, I might need to confess that I might have been way to bold in that statement. It goes fine at the start, but gradually the rocks becomes bigger and the path more or less disappears. Only the red t-waymarks guides me through the rocks. Funnily enough, the walk feels like that I walk fast, but are making very little progress. The last part going through the aptly named Illvassuri (uri means scree), is exceptionally slow. It is tedious walking, no doubt of that.

View down Tundradalen.

Timewise, it does not get any better that I have to vade over two rivers. There is a strong current in both rivers. This kind of surprise me, as I had expected it to be less water after the heavy drought this spring and summer. Stupidly, I had also put my towel at the bottom of my backpack. So at the first fording, I had to stand at the top of a large rock unpacking everything in my backpack to get the towel. And then pack everything back again. I had first tried to find a way to cross the river without needing to take of my shoes, but could only get as far as this stone. It must have looked stupid if you had come upon me while I was doing this. Should probably just have sacrificed one of my other clothes to dry my feet after the crossing.

The Sekkebreen glacier.

The first hiker from Sota Sæta appear in the middle of Illvassuri, not giving me much encouraging news regarding the remaining surface for my part (I might not be giving him the most encouraging news either). I am going to do a lot of small jumps from stone to stone today. I eat lunch, then I cross the third river with my shoes hanging around my neck. On my feet, I have sacrificed one of the pairs of wool socks that I carry with me. It gives me a better grip when walking on the slippery stones underneath the chilly water. Finished wading, the pair of socks hangs dripping at the side of my backpack.

Tundradalskyrkja with Tverrådalskyrkja behind.

Although, the path is not as cumbersome as it was around Illvatnet, the continuing path is still rocky. On the positive side, the somber clouds are now appearing to break up, giving the landscape a brighter feeling. I meet a couple having started late from Sota Sæter, which provides me with some hope regarding the time I will arrive. Warning them about the rocky surface and the rivers that needs to be forded, and advising them on the best place to find a campsite, we return to our divergent paths.

A view back towards Sottjønnin and Tundralskyrkja.

However, even though I got a boost from the news (I felt I was going to use ages to come through this landscape), the walk soon becomes tedious and cumbersome again. I have nice views of Tundradalskyrkja with Tverrådalskyrkja behind, and the Tundradalen valley from where I go, but the view underneath my feet never changes. Eventually, I reach the final top, above Sottjønnin, before I will start the steep descent down towards Sota Sæter. Fortunately, the path here improves.

View before the descent to Sota Sæter of the Mysubyttdalen valley and surrounding mountains.

I am far from being dissatisfied with the walk today, as my writing may give the impression of, but I am feeling very tired. With my heavy backpack and the unrelenting surface, it has been some hard days. The views where I now stand are however wonderful. Looking down at Sota Sæter with the rivers and lakes, the Mysubyttdalen valley to the left of me down in the valley, and the Sekkebreen folded out like a cloth on top of the mountain on the other side of the valley to me.

Looking down at Sota Sæter.

As always, even though you see the destination, it often takes time to get to it. At first the descent is not so good, a little bit slippery, and hurtful for my tired feet. Then the vegetation gradually changes, increasing. Until I start walking through another beautiful birchwoods. Finally, I come down to a gravel track, leading me to the end of the Massiv trail for me. Or what is the beginning to most of the other hikers on this massive and wonderful trail.

Walking through a beautiful birchwoods on the last part of the hike (the marked path you see is not the path I was walking on though).

Having finished the trail, I have made a deal with myself that I will spend the night at the cabin. There are a lot of guests at Sota Sæter, as it is reachable by car. And the childrens club of the Norwegian Trekking Organization has a gathering here. I still get a room for myself. The shower may not longer be warm, but it still fells good. And I can hang up my soaked tent to dry. Sota Sæter was a large and old mountain farm and so consists of several small houses around a large grassy courtyard. The various sleeping quarters are spread out in the various buildings.

Before reaching Sota Sæter, I was walking through this forested area in the valley bottom.

Dinner is served inside the main building, in a nice, but quite confined room. Sort of my little celebration of finishing Massiv. The dinner is good, and I get to talk a little bit with the people sitting next to me at the table. Otherwise, most of what I hear is a little bit drowned in all the sounds the guests are making. The rest of the evening, I sit and relax with a cold beer.

A mountain farm near Sota Sæter.

It has been a massive hike, and a great one too. Not the best weather. I wish I could have done it in one go, but sometimes it cannot be done. Tomorrow, I will continue my hike in Breheimen, but that is an altogether different story.

Sota Sæter.

<- Fivlemyrane

Massiv // day 19 // Aurkvee - Fivlemyrane

Massiv day 19.
Distance: 25.1km (383.9km), time spent: 11:02 (155:16).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1368m / 1028m / 1617m.
Weather: Blue sky with clouds in the morning, then more and more clouds, then rain.

It has been a peaceful night. And thankfully too, a night with a nice and cool temperature. Long from the stiffling heat in the city. I will be going to Nørdstedalseter today, then I will be deciding how far I will go in total. However, it is a long and hard walk from here to that cabin. I hope to reach Sota Sæter by tomorrow, which is said to be an even harder walk than today, so I should prepare for going further than Nørdstedalseter today.

Sun above Aurkvee in the morning.

If there is any hardship in store for me later in the day, the nice weather greeting me in the morning is not telling me anything about it. Sunrays are racing across the small lake as I sit down and eat my breakfast, consisting of hot porridge, crispbread and a cup of hot tea. I have a short walk down to the dam at Storevatnet at the beginning of my day, including a short and steep descent. Three fishermen meets me when I am almost down at the lake, climbing upwards to try their fishing luck at some of the small lakes above.

Sognefjellet with Dyrhaugslogan.

Last year my former colleague warned me that the path had been rerouted near Storevatnet. Unbeknown to him and in far from optimal weather, he had got lost trying the find the way. Fortunately, I am hence aware of the rerouting. However, the map I have has not been updated, but I was told at Sognefjellshytta that I should only follow the usual red t-blazes and I would be fine. If you are used to follow the path on a map, this rerouting could cause you some concern if you are not aware of it. The rerouted path goes further south of Kjerringhetta than the old path did. I am unaware of the reason for it, but there is a very steep section on the old route and my guess is that it might have been some sort of a rockslide or similar. This will make my day longer.

The red t blaze used to waymark various paths in the Norwegian mountains.

Storevatnet.

After having walked some way further southwest, no longer following the red line on the map, I must confess that at one point I do start wondering if I am on the correct way or not. Whatever the truth is, the view of the valley southwest of me is very nice. Eventually, the path starts to turn northwards again. I might feel some relief on going in what amounts to be the correct direction, but the path is far from easy-going. In fact, it is downright cumbersome, going in twist and turns across a broken scenery. With just the right amount of steps that is a little taller than what I find nice when walking with quite the heavy backpack. It is short of scrambling, only it is not. At one point, I have to take of my backpack, scramble down and lift it down. Walking like this, I cannot keep up with the time. This torn and teared up landscape is definitely the result of the glaciers that once covered this land.

Harbardsbreen.

Believing to be back on the path marked on the map, I start the biggest climb of the day. Near a small creek, I settle down for a short break, the chocolate kind of break. A sugar refill with a nice view. Sounds of walking poles warns me about another hiker approaching me rapidly. She is one of those old and sinewy people that looks like she is just floating easily over the rocky surface. We exchange some words, while we both expresses our admiration of the views. She is quite right, it is wonderful to hike here in Breheimen, where you can walk with the view of the jagged and rugged peaks of Jotunheimen and Hurrungane. Informed that it will all be downhill for me from here on, I set off again with renewed vigor. I am not even half-way up to the highest point.

View down Mjelkedalen.

Smørstabbrean glacier behind Storevatnet.

Finally at the top, I meet two other women also coming from Nørdstedalseter, which had used a more reasonable time to compare against for me. My timeframe to reach Nørdstedalseter and then go on is looking good. I am however somewhat surprised that I have not met many people so far. All the reports coming from the mountains are telling tales of a near record-summer of hiking. I guess this is another perk of walking here in Breheimen, here I can go and look at the peaks in Jotunheimen, there I would be looking at the people in Jotunheimen (Jotunheimen is probably the most popular mountain area to go hiking in). I walk in a barren landscape, with most of the surface stony and rocky, with the occasional white blanket of snow that I have to cross.

Jotunheimen skyline. Walking across a field of ice and snow with the majestic peaks of Jotunheimen as backdrop.

Lunchtime is coming up. And so is the rain. Neatly converging above Liabrevatnet. I seek shelter behind a large rock. What happened to the nice weather in the morning? Not to mention, the hot and warm weather from earlier in the summer. Typical. However, this is right in tune with the rest of my hike of the Massiv trail. Wrapping my raincoat tighter around me, I continue walking in the gusty weather. Crossing over the outlet of Liabrevatnet by jumping from stone to stone. The rain pauses and then continues. From the top of Tverrbyttfjellet, I can see waves upon waves of rain coming around the corner in the valley below me, momentarily hiding the view of the valley from my eyes. Grey walls of clouds and rain coming in my direction. Fortunately, it is not heavy rain.

Fannaråken, last year on Massiv I spent one night in the cabin at the top.

A thin wall of rain are blowing across the Liabrevatnet towards me.

At just after five o'clock, having walked for about eight hours, I arrive at Nørdstedalseter. In perfect timing it seems, as the rain intensifies while I take a break at the cabin. I yearn for a waffle, with sourcream and jam. They usually stop serving waffles at five, since it is soon dinner-time, but thankfully they make an exception for me. So, sitting inside the cosy cabin while the rain tries to break through the windows, I enjoy my price along with a beer. It is too much luxury passing by these staffed cabins when you are hiking in the mountains. Looking out the window, I cannot say that the thought of staying here for the night have not crossed my mind. A group of people on a guided tour, by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), arrives. They were sitting on the same bus as I did to and from Lom.

Approaching rain coming up Vetledalen.

Vetledalen, before Nørdstedalseter.

Be it rain or not, I am determined to keep on walking. When I close the door to the cabin behind me, the weather has cleared a little, but heavy and ominous clouds are still residing between the mountainsides. In my backpack, I now carry a box full of tasty cured meat that I got from the group. Truly grateful for that. A great addition to my dinner later in the evening. I am almost alone while walking on the slightly ascending road leading up to Fivlemyrane, only meeting one late hiker with his dog coming from Sota Sæter. He had been caught up in the rain further up, where the path went over large areas of rocks. The rain had made the rocks slippery, and he had to walk carefully. A reminder of what awaits me for tomorrow. Rumours of this section of the trail had come to my attention before, I hope there will be no rain.

Enjoying a waffle with sourcream and jam, and a beer, at Nørdstedalseter.

Ominous clouds drifting through Tverrdalen.

After an hour or so, having walked next to the Fivlemyrane lake, I find a suitable camping spot out on a small promontory in the lake. No sooner than I am about to pitch my tent, it starts to rain. I quickly get the tent up and throw my stuff in under cover, before seeking shelter myself. In a break in the rain I can go out to prepare my dinner. Now, this do make for a cosy evening inside my tent. Eating my dinner, adding the cured meat to the menu and having brewed myself a nice cup of hot tea I am feeling good. It gets darker outside, my headlamp is turned on and my book is retrieved from my backpack. Last night on the Massiv trail.

Fivlemyrane in the evening, at the end of the lake there is a power station.

<- AurkveeSota Sæter ->

Massiv // day 18 // Sognefjellshytta - Aurkvee

Massiv day 18.
Distance: 5.5km (358.8km), time spent: 1:34 (144:14).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1413m / 1368m / 1497m.
Weather: Overcast, some blue patches, light drizzle in the evening.

Last year I had to stop my hike of the Massiv trail at Sognefjellshytta, having no more days to go. Now, returning once again to the mountains, I will continue walking and finish the trail by hiking the two last remaining stages to Sota Sæter. To get back to Sognefjellshytta, I do the exact opposite as what I did when leaving, I take an expressbus from Oslo to Lom and there change to the local bus route going to Sogndal, which stops at Sognefjellshytta along the way. The bustrip to Sogndal from Lom is a wonderful trip in itself, as it passes over the wonderful mountain area of Sognefjellet. That being said, it is a long trip from Oslo, taking over eight hours until I will arrive at my destination (or my starting point depending on how you see it).

The start of the path from Sognefjellshytta.

Before I venture out into the wild, I take a break at Sognefjellshytta. The break includes a beer, or two. Given my late start, the clock is close to seven in the evening when I start walking, I do not expect to walk very far today. The only possible problem that I will have, is probably my own eagerness to walk on the first day on a hike. Returning to the mountains is like coming back to a long lost love. I might overdo it and walk all to far. True to the word, it does feel exalting to feel the clean mountain air and see the barren and wild landscape of the Norwegian mountains again.

View towards Fanaråken from the path leaving the road across Sognefjellet.

I leave the road and the cabin behind me, with the large Smørstabbrean glacier looming behind them. Although the ride on the road over the mountain is a nice one, it still gives me a connection to civilization that I want to get away from. Fanaråken is as usual covered by a cloudy hat, but the memories of the fiery sunrise from the top still manages to warm my heart. Since there has not been any significant rain in a long time, I wonder what they do with water high up there. Water is usually collected when it rains and stored in containers for later use. Hikers going up will probably have to carry a lot of water up themselves.

Looking back towards Sognefjellshytta with the Smørstabbrean glacier behind.

Given the sunny and hot days that has ridden Norway this spring and summer, it is strange to find myself walking underneath an overcast sky, before I left I could look at numerous pictures from the mountains with a clear blue sky. This overcast weather is however expected, it sort of fits right in to the weather on my previous sections on the Massiv trail.

Sognefjellet.

One of Norways most famous adventurers, Lars Monsen, has this summer been making a sort of a minute to minute tv transmission of hiking in Norway. To be able to pull that through, he has to have a significant number of helpers with him that can carry what is necessary to film the show. The social medias are full of comparisons of this against the famous scene in Forrest Gump where the main character is running with a large number of followers behind him. They were here in this area not many days ago, but I am glad that I am not going to run into them. It would probably be too crowded for my taste, and I have no interest in showing up just to get on national tv.

Not that I do not meet other people. On the way, I meet late hikers coming from Nørdstedalseter. It is a long hike from that cabin to Sognefjellshytta, estimated to be around 9 hours if you walk non-stop and with a light backpack (and keeps a good pace). I will be passing that cabin tomorrow. Nørdstedalseter is also the last cabin on the Massiv trail before the endpoint at Sota Sæter (or the second cabin on the trail, if you start from Sota).

View towards Storevatnet with its dam, tomorrow I will be crossing the dam.

In the days leading to my hike, I had been feeling a slightly tension in my body and mind. What was the source of this tension I could not tell, but as I started walking I could feel this tension slip away. Just like I knew it would, the mountains has this effect on me, as walking do. After walking for about one and half hour, I arrive at a small lake called Aurkvee. It is now past eight o'clock, so I see it fit to find a place to pitch my tent. I would gladly have continued walking, but I feel content.

Aurkvee, the site of my first night on this leg of the Massiv trail. I pitched my tent out on the tiny peninsula in the middle of the picture.

It is a nice little lake. I am not alone. On one side of the tiny peninsula that I have set up camp at, I can see a lone fisherman and his tent. On the other side, a family with kids must be camping, I can see the kids running around later. The Massiv weather holds its promise and starts to rain shortly after I have finished setting up my camp. Only a short drizzle though, and I can quickly go out to prepare dinner at the shores of the lake. The first day of the last leg of the Massiv trail was a short, but nice, walk. I might only have hiked something about five kilometers, but those kilometers were welcome after a long busride from Oslo. Tomorrow it starts for real.

<- SognefjellshyttaFivlemyrane ->

Massiv // day 17 // Kongsdøla - Sognefjellshytta

Massiv day 17.
Distance: 11.3km (353.3km), time spent: 5:38 (142:40).
Ascent / descent: 680m (12366m) / 188m (11943m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 912m / 1413m / 1483m.
Weather: Overcast, some occasional rain.

Today is the last day. I do not use it to go to Sota Sæter as I first had hoped to do. On the first days of my hike, I went out too hard and afterwards I had to lower my ambitions somewhat. I have to get back home in a way, so the best option for me was to go to Sognefjellshytta where I can catch a bus. That sat the order of the day, making it not the most exciting of my days. The walk from Kongsdøla to the cabin next to the Sognefjellsveien road is a short one.

Utledalen.

If I do the trail going from cabin to cabin, I will be two days away from finishing the Massiv trail. Now those two days have to wait, I think that I will take those next year, and let it be the start of a hike in the Breheimen national park, an area that I have not been in yet. I am not that disappointed having not reached the end of the trail.

A gorge between the mountains forms the gate to Vetle Utledalen.

It rained for most of the night, but it stopped in good time before I had to get up. It is quite windy outside, so the tent has dried up pretty well before I go. Massiv is from Kongsdøla going up into a wet valley before the path enters a gorge leading up to Vetle Utledalen. It might not be so strange that the valley is so green and lush. Next to the path, the river running down the valley roars loudly. Up into Vetle Utledalen, the path goes through a short and narrow valley before it appears at the high plateau southeast of Sognefjellet.

The surface is wet in the north end of Utledalen, here the trail goes on a constructed path of stones.

Reaching the bus is all that matters today, but I have good time. And after having crawled up from Vetle Utledalen, the terrain will be easier to walk on. It is not particularly heavy before that, but it involves more climbing.

The river Steindøla is crossed on this bridge.

At Rundhaugstjønne, it is time for a lunch break, not only to have an early lunch, but also just to eat up some of the food that I have left. I can look up towards Fannaråken from the water, but now the clouds are thrown down over the mountain, so there is little to see.

Vetle Utledalen.

With just little over one hour left before I will arrive at Sognefjellshytta, I have given up the hope of meeting a former colleague that is also hiking the Massiv trail (he is going it in the opposite direction). But just after I continue walking from Rundhaugstjønne, I can see a familiar person coming carrying a large backpack. It was just in the nick of time that we met, but we made it, just. Harald can tell me about some hard days from Sota Sæter and a day where he almost got lost on the way to Sognefjellshytta. There was however a simple reason for that, the path between Nørdstedalseter and Sognefjellshytta has been rerouted just before the dam at Storevatnet (I have to keep this in mind when I continue next year).

A more barren scenery after coming up from Utledalen and Vetle Utledalen to the area southeast for Sognefjellet.

It was truly great to meet someone I know on the hike. Although we both would like to have more time, we eventually have to move on in our different directions. Harald got to experience that the weather was just as merciless toward him as it was to me on the rest of his hike and arrived at Haukeliseter 17 days after he left Sota Sæter.

Meeting a familiar face on the trail. Here I have met Harald Rygge who began walking from Sota Sæter three days ago. We met just in time, I was now only one hour away from finishing my hike. Harald had two more week ahead of him.

View southwards from Rundhaugan 1483m over Rundhaugstjønne.

I did not walk many steps after we walked away in each our separate ways before my curiosity overtakes me again and dumps my backpack to the ground. I climb to the top of one of the Rundhaugan-tops northeast of Rundhaugstjønne, at 1483m. A fitting viewpoint for the final day. With good views over Sognefjellet, Fannaråken and in the direction of Breheimen, which seems to be aptly named.

Sognefjellet from Rundhaugan.

So, a short last walk on mountain and a short walk on road and I get the final stamp in my Massiv-passport this year at Sognefjellshytta. Finished with Massiv and my summer hike for this year. It has been ten great days in the mountains since I set out from Finse, despite the weather.

Fannaråken from Rundhaugan.

I have time for a shower at Sognefjellshytta (my fellow passengers on the bus should be happy about that) and a waffle together with a cold beer before the bus drives into the place in front of the cabin. The bus ride down to Lom is nice, but from there it is a long and time-consuming ride back home to Oslo. Behind lies the mountains, Hardangervidda, Skarvheimen, Jotunheimen and Breheimen. I will be back.

Map of the trail for the seventeenth day on Massiv, from Kongsdøla to Sognefjellshytta.

<- KongsdølaAurkvee ->

Massiv // day 16 // Fannaråken - Kongsdøla

Massiv day 16.
Distance: 16.8km (342.0km), time spent: 10:15 (137:02).
Ascent / descent: 525m (11686m) / 1664m (11755m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 2068m / 912m / 2068m.
Weather: Fog, slightly overcast, sunny, cloudy, rain.

When I wake up at the usual time, it is back to the normal up here it seems. The fog lies dense around the cabin and the top and there is little that reminds me of the amazing sunrise for only a couple of hours ago. But that sunrise is not easily forgotten. I may have lost a couple of hours of necessary sleep, but in return, I have had a wonderful experience.

Back to the normal at Fannaråkhytta, when I wake up in the morning, the top is yet again cloaked by clouds.

Despite its location, there is more than enough food for breakfast. And the homemade bread tastes heavenly good. Today's plan is simple. Go down and back to Skogadalsbøen, pick up my equipment that I have stored there and then continue further to find a place to camp. Where? That I will find out on the way.

The path and tracks across the snow disappears in the fog and snow.

Instead of returning to Skogadalsbøen the same way I came up from, I choose to go down on the path going down towards Turtagrø. I will of course not go that far, but at the foot of the mountain there is a path leading back to Keisarpasset. I intend to take that path back and from Keisarpasset follow the same tracks as yesterday back. In this way, I get to see both of the ways to Fannaråkhytta.

A window to the surrounding world and Hurrungane opens up when I get down below the layer of clouds at the top of Fannaråken.

To start walking is like disappearing, at least the feeling of it. The snow and fog merges into one, and the path leading down is going straight into the middle of the nothingness. However, it does not take long time before you appear out of nowhere and to a window opening up towards the surrounding area and mountains around and below. The glaciers running like streams down from Hurrungane is at the start just visible beneath the sea of fog. When the snow retreats, I come out to the sea of rocks you have to cross of over to get down.

The path down from Fannaråkhytta, you can see the bright contours of the path winding down the scree. Helgedalen below, where the continuing path to Turtagrø goes.

The trail down from Fannaråken goes like waves, or zigzags, down. Constantly over rocks. The path clear and obvious, bleached and worn down by all that has gone up and down on it. The trail seen in a clearly brighter pattern than the surrounding stones. I can see two of the other guests at the cabin twist around the turns below, and later see other coming up from below. At this time, I am below the clouds where the views are great, it even appears that the clouds will break up. The views down Helgedalen, Bergsdalen and towards Fortun are splendid. The path turns downwards past Marangsgjelet. I overtake the two other I saw below and stop for a short break talking to them. I receive some chocolate as an added bonus.

Hurrungane with Styggedalsbreen, the summits surrounded by clouds.

More and more people are coming upwards the further down I go. Just below Ekrehytta is the junction, I now turn to the left. Above me, the sky now has taken a total u-turn compared to the earlier days. The sky is blue and sunny, hot. Nice weather. It should not last. Over towards Keisarpasset I also meet other people who had spent the night at Fannaråkhytta. They chose to go down the path I climbed up to the cabin. It is somewhat funny looking back up towards Fannaråken, I can see tiny figures moving up towards the cabin high above. They have arrived in good weather, I am happy on their behalf.

Blue sky and sun suddenly appeared on the walk over Skautehaugane between Hurrungane and Fannaråken.

Again it is clouding over when I get to Keisarpasset, but the weather is satisfied with just hiding the sun and there is no rain. Fannaråkhytta is still visible high up there, it is nice looking up towards it. I get a better overview over Jervvatnet than I did yesterday. It goes fast down Jervvassdalen, as it did up it. I meet a small group of young people, only walking in simple clothes, no backpacks, wondering a little about where they are headed. At Skogadalsbøen it is quiet, some hikers has already arrived, but they are still waiting for the large flow of people to come.

Jervvassbreen and Styggedalsbreen.

Back in the Massiv routines you might say. I take a longer break at Skogadalsbøen, together with a mother and her old children whom I also met at Fannaråken. I have some beers, relaxes, consider staying put for the night. Then I go out again. People on the way in. Outside it is now back to the more sad, but at the same time atmospheric weather.

Jervvassdalen with views towards Uranostinden.

The most boring thing by doing this, and with this I mean leaving behind the equipment at Skogadalsbøen, is that I have to walk through the forest after the cabin three times. It is pleasant enough, but the third time I feel that now I have seen it. A light drizzle follows me up into the valley, the upper part of Utladalen. Past derelict and abandoned farmsteads, where only the sheep seek shelter at the time. Verdant and lush.

Through the upper part of Utladalen you walk past abandoned and dilapidated farmsteads, as here at Guridalen.

I walk until I get to the bridge crossing over the Kongsdøla river. Here I find a place for the night. The surface is wet, and it is noisy from the gushing river below, but I am content with the day. It rains more and more during the afternoon and evening. I cook myself a cup of hot tea, before I begin preparing dinner at the bridge, the last dinner on my hike. After having eaten it and felt that I have had enough water poured down upon me, I crawl into my tent.

My campsite at Kongsdøla.

Inside the tent, I settle down with my book and relaxes, looking back at the day. The best part was at the beginning on it, the walk down from Fannaråkhytta, but I also enjoyed the walk up here after Skogadalsbøen, with a feeling of being the only one out and walking. Just me, alone, and the mountains around. And the rain. Tomorrow the end of this round of Massiv wait for me, I will go to Sognefjellshytta and take the bus home from there.

Map of the trail for the sixteenth day on Massiv, from Fannaråken to Kongsdøla.

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