Distance: 29.9km (70.0km).
Weather: Sunny, sunny, sunny.
With yellow arrows in the horizon, albeit sparse, we would today make our first real steps on the Caminho do Este de Portugal. It would also be the last day walking next to the southern coast of Portugal. From Vila Real de Santo António the Camino veers inland following the border river between Portugal and Spain, Guadiana. Vila Real is also the town we will be walking to today, a distance of about 30km from Tavira. Probably 30 dirty, dusty and thirsty kilometers.
The pilgrims walking through the streets of Tavira in the early morning.
At the official start of the Caminho do Este de Portugal in Tavira, scallop and yellow arrow.
Breakfast was made ready for us in the morning, as we wanted to start early. As it should be, we go over to the Igreja de Santiago to begin our walk from. It is from here that the Camino begins. One of the people pioneering this route is having his office here, Pilgrim John, but he is not here now (nor was he yesterday).
Praça da República, Tavira.
Tavira in the morning
As dawn breaks the sky, slowly turning from blue to purple, we walk through the empty streets lit by warm streetlights. It is just as beautiful looking at the town over the Rio Gilão in the morning light as it was in the evening light yesterday. I stand transfixed for a while, making the group get ahead of me, only catching up with them at a lovely chapel with the whole front covered in tiles.
Walking into a beautiful sunrise outside Tavira.
Salt flat in sunrise.
Happy winner of a lighter.
Like yesterday out of Olhão, getting out of Tavira requires some walking on a road. For today we will also walk on a mix of paved roads and gravel tracks, not far from the coast. The sun rises as we leave the bigger road for a smaller road, with the sunlight reflecting on the road, a proper Camino moment. Soon we change over to a gravel track, from where we embark on a dry and pleasant walk.
On the way, walking next to a golf course, thankfully hidden from view.
Passing by the occasional yellow arrow.
There is however a problem ahead and thankfully we meet a local woman that is able to warn us before we get as far. The normal route crosses over a river on a bridge, but according to the local person the bridge has been damaged and is suited unstable to walk on. We have to find another way around and she is eagerly helping us out by describing a way for us.
A purple flower.
Igreja de Cacela Velha.
Quite interestingly, this route brings us into the route that is waymarked by Pilgrim John, going on a busy road. Gry has studied his route, which differs from the route described in the German guidebook. It appears that he is mainly sticking to the roads when he is marking the Camino. As we prefer walking on softer surfaces and smaller paths, we are mostly following the German guidebook. In some ways, I can see this can be confusing to pilgrims and that may be one of the reasons this camino is not increasing in popularity, despite being wiped the dust off.
Inside Igreja de Cacela Velha.
Icon, Igreja de Cacela Velha.
Old turret with a view at Cacelha Velha.
We sit down for a coffee at a bar and now after walking past all those strange lotteries you can find in Portuguese bars on my Camino Portugués last year, I just have to try one out. You know, the ones where you put 1€ in a machine and out comes a small plastic ball that contains either a number or a letter, if that number or letter is present on the mount with prizes, you will win the corresponding prize. I hit jackpot. Well, not exactly, but I do win a lighter.
On the country road after Cacelha Velha.
The Camino goes through dusty and dry fields.
Navigating back to the Camino, we are back in the world of dusty roads, acres, fields and small villages. The Camino goes through a huge golf resort, but our way is secluded from the view of it. Pleasant walking, but we are all eagerly awaiting arriving at what is said to be a highlight on the walk to Vila Real de Santo António, Cacela Velha.
A heart in the cobblestones.
A wayside shrine.
Lovely forest walk before Monte Gordo.
Cacela Velha is a tiny place, but it contains a wonderful small chapel that more than makes up for its size. Igreja de Cacela Velha was originally built in 1518, on the top of a medieval building. In 1755 it was badly damaged by an earthquake and then rebuilt in 1795. The main portico is built in Renaissance style, with busts of the apostles São Pedro and São Paulo carved into it. It is overlooking Ria Formosa and the Atlantic ocean. The sandbanks and water visible below makes it tempting to go down for a swim, it is a lovely view. Serene.
A small lake, and possible wildlife sanctuary, passed by on the way.
Gry on the Caminho, the rest of the group ahead.
We have lunch at a café close to the chapel. The success of a group tour has always been dependent not only on the tour itself, like what you see or experience, but on the composition of the group itself. The interaction between the various group members always play a big role. So far, given that we are a small group, everything looks very good. It is a pleasant company to be walking with (making it easier to co-guide it). It has a gone a good hour and a half at this wonderful place before we are moving ahead.
Boarwalk to the beach in Monte Gordo.
Walking on a sandy track between Monte Gordo and Vila Real de Santo António.
Finding the way on this Camino is maybe completely impossible without a guide, which makes me wonder who found it in the first place. The sun is bearing down on us as we keep on navigating the dusty fields and quiet roads and paths through Manta Rota and Aldeamento Alamar, at one point passing by a lone toy bike in the middle of a field.
Street in Vila Real de Santo António.
Baptismal fonts in the Igreja de Vila Real de Santo António.
After Cacelha Velha the walk has been both pleasant and not so interesting, but before Monte Gordo we walk on a beautiful path through a lovely forest. The forest floor consists mostly of sand with sparse vegetation. We arrive in the small town with the misleading name, no mountains in view what so ever, only a large beach and several restaurants, trinket shops and hotels (one immensely huge one). Not my kind of place, but it is hot and the group is in need of a break and some refreshments. Both Mount Everest and Monte Gordo are represented at the place we sit down in.
Inside Igreja de Vila Real de Santo António.
Passing by a stately house on the way to our accommodation.
Another lovely walk through a forest takes us the last kilometres to Vila Real de Santo António. This is another beautiful and charming town with white houses. Outside each store there is an equally formed signpost in blue, with a drawing in white on that depicts what the store is selling. Here Gry has rented an apartment for us, or rather two. One for the girls and one for the boys. Gry and I goes out buy dinner and breakfast, deciding to go for chicken and marinated pork meat with fried potatoes and salad. Not long afterwards, we are all seated around the table eating a great dinner, the wine not forgotten.
In Vila Real de Santo António.
Jorun, Gry and Laila preparing dinner.
The scars along the way are easily forgotten when the rest of they day was as good as it was. I was glad to get the little walk out to buy dinner, as I could see more of the town, I feel that it deserves more time than we ended up getting. From tomorrow, the group will head inlands alongside the border river, Guadiana, leaving the coast.
Ulf on 'duty' preparing the meat.
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