Distance: 25.1km (293.1km), time spent: 8:53.
Weather: Rain in various forms all day.
Most of the heavy walking on Der Traumpfad lies in the Karwendel, Tux and Zillertal Alps, and then the Dolomites. The first and last days of the trail are by comparision very easy. In between the Zillertal Alps and the Dolomites however, lies the Lusner Alps. Not to be mistaken for easy hiking, but they are still gentle in opposition to what has been before and what awaits after. Today the first of two days over the Lusner Alps lies ahead of me. In terms of scenery, it is not a stage I have the most expectations of, and with that in mind, it does not matter much that the predictions is for heavy rain all day.
Pfarrkirche Sankt Martin in Pfunders.
Another day with different approaches. Werner will take a zero day due to the weather. Martina, Dieter and Karin (who also came here yesterday) will take the bus down to Niedervintl, which is what I hear is usual for Germans to do on this stage. It does not bode well for my walk, though, as for me taking a bus is not an option. Is the walk down to that small town so bad? I will soon find out.
Pfunders and misty mountains, Dun would be somewhere in the clouds up in the valley.
After a hearty breakfast, but with dire warnings of not taking anything of it with me for lunch, I make my leave. The sky is everything they said it would be, all grey and clouds assailing the mountains all around, but no rain yet. The description of the route says I am to take the road leaving Pfunders, but I choose to go on a small footpath next to the river instead. This is more scenic and it allows me to go visit the local church, which has some nice murals on its walls and roof inside.
A lonesome barn underneath the mountains and trees in the clouds.
I do not escape walking next to the road all the way though. Down the valley (Pfundertal), the trail switches between going next to the road and onto small gravel tracks or footpaths above the road. Thankfully the road is not that busy today. Rain kicks in soon after leaving Pfunders behind. With the rain and the heavy clouds trying to tear the mountains apart, it is a very atmospheric walk. I have always loved seeing clouds assault mountains, see them flow through the trees or crash against the mountainsides, wearing and tearing. Today I am getting an extraordinary show. However, a part of me is glad to be down in the valley here than up in the mountains below at the moment. The other, more adventurous part of me is not...
On the road towards Vallarga, with the mountains assailed by clouds.
In Niedervintl.
About one and three quarter of an hour I reach Vallarga. Up to this point, the walk has been rather nice actually, despite the wet elements in the air and some roadwalking. I wonder why it apparently is so usual to skip this section of the trail, although the remaining walk down to Niedervintl is not as exciting. I can see where I will climb up into the Lusner Alps, but nothing behind it.
Steep path up through the trees from Niedervintl.
Into the mist.
In Niedervintl I first go buying some more supplies for the hike, as there is a supermarket here. Then I go searching for a place to have lunch, with the few places I find not open yet. I end up at a small café that does not have the biggest assortment when it comes too food, but they more than makes up for it in terms of friendliness. Not as friendly is the upcoming weather forecast, but I am confused about the app they use for the forecast. On the overview page they show a sun for the next day, but when you go into the details page, every hour has an icon showing rain next to it.
Pfundertal in rain.
With little or no climbing so far, the trail kicks into another gear after Niedervintl, especially since the stage boasts 1500 meters of total ascent despite being considered gentle. On a signpost I spot a Camino de Santiago waymarker, another unknown pilgrim way going towards Santiago de Compostela in Spain, but it does not say which route it is. It goes in the opposite direction of where I am heading. München - Venedig is marked on one of the signposts.
Barn in the rain at Hirschleitenalm.
Sculptures next to the trail after Roner Hütte.
Initially going on a forest track climbing up into the woods, the trail later on leaves it for a narrow footpath. Views back are of the Pfundertal with clouds cascading over the mountains, flowing en masse down the valley. The path is surprisingly steep, reaching ever higher up into clouds thickening as I go. A good thing the path is good marked, as it crosses and alternates going on narrow footpaths or forest tracks.
Statue inside the Pianer Kreuz chapel, pay notice to the shroud he is holding.
At Leachenalm the wooden barn depicted in the guidebook is no longer there, but there is still views to be had. Further up, at Hirschleitenalm, it is the other way around. The farm buildings are still standing, but no views to be had, fog lies heavy on the ground. It has been raining steadily now since it started in the morning. After the Roner Hütte, which is closed for renovations, the trail passes by a set of curious sculptures. Both on the ground and in the trees.
Pianer Kreuz.
As the landscape is opening up, revealing that I am finished with the climb, I arrive at Pianer Kreuz. I am all wet and slightly cold now, so I hope the higher powers will forgive me for seeking temporary shelter in the small chapel. The most interesting part of the chapel is the statue of a saint holding a shroud in his hand, the shroud bears a face. Fascinating, but also kind of grotesque.
Walking through the gentle Lusner Alps, Peitlerköfel visible to the right.
The walk down from Pfunders to Niedervintl was pleasant, the walk up from Niedervintl was nice enough, but from Pianer Kreuz the walk over the open scenery of the Lusner Alm is simply put beautiful. Even in the rain. The clouds are lifting a little, revealing a gently undulating landscape of green hills. In the distance, the grey outline of the Peitlerköfel is now visible.
Mountain farms and view from Lusner Alm.
Due to the heavy clouds, I might not see the big mountains that surrounds the Lusner Alps, as I am now positioned in between the Alps and the Dolomites. But as I walk over this gentle landscape, with mountain farms scattered about, my mind is far from occupied by what I might miss out on, but on the calmness and serenity this landscape gives me. And I believe the rain, although it has eased a little, adds a certain atmosphere to that feeling. Away in the distance, I can see the clouds yield way for a melancholic light instead.
Lusner Alm with Peitlerköfel at the back.
Nearby is another mountain refuge, the Starkenfeldhütte, and there are signpost to another one not far away either, the Rastnerhütte. Which means I have options if the Kreuzwiesen Alm should be full, although it would mean that I would have to go back. Which is exactly what I find myself doing not long after passing out of view of the Starkenfeldhütte. Not due to the Kreuzwiesen Alm having no beds free, but me wondering if I have taken a wrong turn. The penalty for paying too much attention on the scenery and too little on the waymarks. I was however on the right way.
Light in the horizon.
When I arrive at Kreuzwiesen Alm, I am rather wet, but the clouds are lifting and there are signs of the sun making its appearance. It looks like a wonderful place, and they have a bed for me, I even get a room for myself. Martina is as expected already there, talking to a young German girl. Johanna is also hiking Der Traumpfad. In fact she had been thinking of doing the Camino Frances at first, but had instead decided to climb over the Alps and Dolomites. Pretty tough for a girl her age. Dieter and Karin are also here.
Kreuzwiesen Alm.
Peitlerköfel with clouds seeping over it as the weather is clearing, the Dolomites behind.
Another evening with good food and company, and when the clouds escapes as the sun breaks through them, everything is good. And then I can see them, the Dolomites, before hidden behind Peitlerköfel. In many ways, a different day than the other days so far on Der Traumpfad. And I am not so sure if this day would have been any better in good weather, with the exception of the comfort when walking it. The Dolomites is now one day away. Two weeks have gone since I left München.
Good company at Kreuzwiesen Alm, me, Martina, Johanna, Karin and Dieter.
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