Distance: 17.4km (481.3km), time spent: 7:33.
Weather: Beautiful.
For some the end of the hike is in Belluno, as many chooses to take the bus to Venezia instead of walking through the flat Venetian plains. In our company, it is Martina and Katherine who leaves us, but they do not leave us for that reason. Martina has to return back home for work and Katherine leaves to meet a friend in Cortina. We all meet in the small park at Piazza dei Martiri for a last farewell, the others having had their breakfast there.
Farewell picture in Belluno, me, Lutz, Johanna, Martina, Katherine and Florian.
There is now only one mountain ridge behind us and Venezia. Today we aim for the refuge at the top of Col Visentin, the final summit. The first steps out of Belluno takes us down an escalator, an unusual 'surface' for a hiker. From here, the trail will go through several small villages and hamlets, passing through a cultural landscape before arriving at Nevegal. Nevegal is a typical ski resort, but once we get past the usual paraphernalia found there, the trail will be climbing untampered through nature (mostly).
The unusual hiking way out of Belluno.
Ponte della Vittoria.
Murals adorns the walls as we head towards the Ponte della Vittoria, which we uses to cross over the Piave river. Leaving the bridge on a road we climb slowly, with a good view of Belluno with the last of the Dolomites behind. Most of the walk at the beginning is on paved road, bringing more memories of the Camino than a hike in the mountains. With colors around us contrasting in green and blue it is a pleasant walk.
Belluno and the Schiara massif.
We pass by farms and large mansions that both looks habited and abandonded. Behind us are the Dolomites unevenly barring the horizon, but ahead of us is the last barrier more gentle in appearance. More like a large green rolling hill. Our goal is easily spotted by all its communication paraphernalia, and the open ridge where the trail climbs up to it. It is impossible to look away from the power religion has here, the sizes of the churches tells it all. Above the colored houses of Castion is Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta visible from a long way.
Schiara through cornfields.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta in Castion.
There is a choice of paths today. We opt for the route described as the most scenic one in the guidebook, despite not being the official route. This takes us through the small village of Caleipo instead of going towards the Santuario di San Mamante. Both routes appeared to be waymarked with München - Venedig signs. The change from a hard to soft surface comes with a small price, as the views of the Dolomites behind us becomes hidden by the foliage.
Walking next to fields with views of the Dolomites.
Climbing steadily upwards under the cover of the trees, with the sun shining through them, the fact that I am getting closer to the end is occupying a part of my mind. It is a distant memory now, the day that I left München underneath a grey sky with the Alps and Dolomites ahead of me, now both are behind me. For all its lack of view, it is a pleasant walk. After contouring in the trees on the left hand side of the Val di San Mamante, we arrive at a beauty spot. At the bottom of the valley is the T. Turriga creek flowing, cascading over some inviting pools. Interestingly is one side of the creek full of green growth, while on the other side it is full of fallen autumn leaves. Is it another sign that by crossing over we are getting closer to the end?
Through a green tunnel, Lutz, Johanna and Florian.
Path from Caleipo.
I look back towards the days of high Alpine traverses, of the joy of the first days in the Dolomites, and of the ravaging storm of last year. And then suddenly we find ourselves in midst of its aftermath again. Trees lies littered across the ground. I would not want to have been here when that storm passed over, or in the other areas affected by that storm. Thankfully, this ravaged section is shorter, but still troublesome for Lutz with his oversized backpack.
An icon next to the trail.
We leave Nevegal behind us, passing by the ugly ski station equipment. Nothing much happens here out of season, all quiet and closed, but we had managed to find a place for lunch. Ski resorts all looks ghostly, or ghastly, when it is out of season (possible in season too). Florian catches up with us, having stayed behind at the enticing pools for a swim. I wonder why I did not do the same thing, could have enjoyed a swim now. Finding the correct path through all the dormant equipment is tricky.
An inviting pool at a beauty spot in the T. Turriga creek.
A ribbon is barring the way, stretched across the track, announcing that the path is closed. Time for a little bit of civil disobedience, we see others has passed by the ribbon too, which is lying on the ground. Shade encloses us, we walk for a bit until Florian and Lutz announce they need a break. Johanna and I continue, the track narrows down to a path.
The return of the storm, Johanna looks over the fallen trees.
A lone farm below Nevegal.
Here, Der Traumpfad enters a lovely contouring path. Through the trees are nice views of Belluno far below and the Schiara towering behind. On exposed sections, boardwalks and wooden bridges are put up, but they all seem to be in a badly need of repair. The wood is slippery and mossy. A lot of the wooden planks are rotten, splintered or wounded. In places there are holes, but they carry us fine, although we have to take care as to where we put our feet. I guess this is the reason the path is closed. Johanna tells me that the description of the route today is different in her German guidebook. In her guidebook the route starts the climb up to the top of the ridge earlier, aiming for Col Torond first.
Lovely path over a bridge that is in need of repair.
Parts of the path becomes overgrown and wild. Then we arrive out in the open, to green rolling hills and meadows, and blue sky above. Remains of a building appear at the top of the hill, probably a farm, and then we turn around. Dominating the horizon are the Dolomites, with the Schiara massif being the centrepart. I might feel regret for having left those mountains, but looking at them from a distance is still a splendid view.
Looking back, walking over a bridge in an unknown state.
Before the scenery opens up, the path closes in.
I would be happy to see the last final climb being longer than it is, for it is a walk to savour. More often than not, I have to stop and take in the views. It will be interesting to see the far different sight on the other side of this ridge. Where the flat Venetian plains stretches out towards the sea. Behind are multiple peaks and ridges rising towards the sky, and far away behind all of them lies München. Looking at them, it is strange to think that you have made your way across them.
Walking up towards Col Visentin with splendid views of the Dolomites behind, Belluno visible in the middle.
Rifugio Col Visention (Hutte Rifugio 5 Art di montagna) sits at the summit of Col Visentin (1764m). It ranks as one of the quirkest mountain cabins I have every stayed at, looking more like a space station or spaceport. The summit and cabin, an old lighthouse, is packed with communication equipment. But for all its radars and antennas, there are no cell phone signal to be found here. Except for one tiny spot, where I could get a signal. If I moved just one bit, I lost it. Full of charm though.
The monument and chapel at La Cresta della Madonna.
While waiting for Florian and Lutz, me and Johanna walks over to the top of a nearby ridge, La Cresta della Madonna. On the top we find what appear like the remains of an old chapel, given the altar and religious icons present, with a Madonna statue. There is also a monument here to Gruppo A.N.A. Castionese (maybe the building itself). All positioned on this lovingly, rolling green ridgeline.
Rifugio Col Visentin with all its communication equipment, once a lighthouse.
Lutz and Florian arrives, visible as two silhouettes walking upwards on the crest of the ridge. I was a little unsure of how many guests there would be, as we are now closer to everything, but we are the only people spending the night here. We eat dinner, constantly interrupted by excursions outside to look at the views as the sun goes down, painting the landscape in warm pastel colors. A splendid evening.
A warm and pastel sunset at Col Visentin.
When the sun has declined and darkness descended upon the landscape, the lands around Col Visentin wakes up to life. Lights begin to appear below. Most interesting is the view of the flat plains to the south of us, a blanket of stars on the ground. A poignant reminder that we will be finished with the mountains tomorrow, only the descent from here remains.
Evening sky over the Venetian plains, the lights of all the roads, towns and places below are visible like a blanket of stars.
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