Distance: 17.9km (356.9km), time spent: 8:32.
Weather: Mostly nice, some clouds.
After two wonderful days on the trail, we want to extend it to see as much possible before the bad weather arrives. Hence, Martina, Johanna and I agrees that we will go to the Rifugio Viel dal Pan today. Tomorrow our three days spell of good weather (including this day) will end, or maybe even in this evening as some predictions foretell. Yesterday we left the Púez Geisler group of the Dolomites, a truly wonderful hike, today we will cross the Sella group and approach the Marmolada. Lots of climbing to do, so it is a good thing that the breakfast at Hotel Cir is a good and hearty one.
Cappella di San Maurizio.
Looking up toward where I came down from the Púes Geisler group yesterday.
Staring at the wall of the Sella massiv, it is difficult at first to understand where we will get up on top of it. At least, not without climbing gear. Before I get the answer, I go visit the chapel nearby, Cappella di San Maurizio. It is a small mountain chapel, with glass paintings with pictures associated with the nearby mountains on. Once leaving, I head towards the massive cliffs above. The path then goes in a southeasternly direction directly underneath the cliffs, as if searching for the way up. Views down the valley are beautiful, view back over the valley towards the Púez Geisler are superb, only marred by all the ski station paraphernalia that I so dislike.
Morning sun as we hike towards Val Setus and the climb up into the Sella.
Once the path has found the way it wants to get up on, it does so with steep grandeur. In shade most of the day, the Val Setus goes up through the cliffs like a scar in the landscape. On a surface of scree and with the sides narrowing around us, we climb up through the valley, trying not to pay too much heed to the number of the path, which is 666. Some ice and snow still lingers here, and I can make some fun going underneath a small retreating glacier and peek out of it from a hole. Above is the cables used by the supply lift, which hums to life while we climb and shortly after we can see the small carriage fly over us.
In Val Setus look out of the shaded valley on the climb up.
Another scramble up steep cliffs, aided by wires and bolts, awaits us at the last section of the climb. Turning back after having made the final step of the climb, reveals another stunning mountain scenery, looking straight over to the peaks of the Púez Geisler group. I walk further out on one of the sides overlooking the Val Setus, looking down I can see the steep incline we have climbed up. Several small figures are slowly moving upwards, another hikers on their way up.
Me, Johanna and Martina at the top after having climbed up the Val de Setus.
Looking down in the Val Setus gorge and towards the Púez Geisler summits at the back.
Underneath the towering Cima Pisciadù lies the mountain cabin with the same name. The Rifugio Pisciadù has a great location, with great views down the valley towards Colfosco visible below, although the building looks rather ordinary. The most interesting part after the cabin is that the trail now climbs up towards the highest point of the trail, Altipiano delle Meisules at 2962m. With the exception of the small mountain lake, Lago di Pisciadù, the walk is not so gripping after the excitement so far. It is tempting to climb up to the summit of Cima Pisciadù (2985m), but I have another and more prominent peak on my schedule today, so I leave it be.
Rifugio Pisciadù underneath the Cima Pisciadù.
Pure mountain scenery, from the climb up to Altipiano delle Meisules with views of yesterday.
Coming up to Altipiano delle Meisules is like entering a lunar landscape, in the least place you expect to do so. Especially after seeing all the jugged peaks all around. Prayer flags are fluttering in the wind here too, beyond is the one dominating summit, Piz Boè. Coming down from the lunar plateau, I see the local fauna running away, a curious installation indicating that several people have had fun collecting stones and arraying them in words and forms, and I see spires protruding up from the sides of the mountain. Going closer I see that they are rising up from the Val di Mesdi, which fall steeply down from where I stand.
Altipiano delle Meisules, Piz Boè rising up behind.
Rifugio Boè sits at the foot of Piz Boè. It is quite noisy here as part of the cabin is under maintenance, there is even a large lifting crane here, but the cabin is still operational. I notice Julia's name in the guestbook, she was here two days ago. Cannot see the name of any of the others I met earlier on my hike, a little bit of a distant memory already. I reckon I probably will not meet any one of them again.
Val di Mesdi.
Allowed to leave my backpack at the cabin, I climb up to the summit of Piz Boè. Technically not a very difficult climb, but there is a section that requires the use of cables. On this section there is one route you take to climb up and another route when climbing down again, although I see some people that either misunderstands the signposts or does not care. As the Rifugio Boè becomes smaller and smaller, the views are getting progressively more wideranging. It is also so amazing how white everything appear, compared to the green of yesterday.
Looking down at the Sella plateau from the climb up to Piz Boè, Rifugue Boè below.
The summit of Piz Boè stands at 3152m and is where I had planned to spend a night in my original plan for the hike. Nestled at the summit is the Rifugio Capanna Fassa. The place is a real harvester of sunsets and sunrises, so it is not with a light heart that I had dismissed my original plan. However, weather forecast for tonight is a thunderstorm, but where that should come from now I do not know. Tomorrow is no better and I hope to see more of this wonderful scenery before bad weather obscures everything, I will go on. It is also busy at this moment, lots of people milling about, taking in the spectacular views. The Marmolada is dominating the southern expanse, Mont Pelmo is clearly standing out in the distance and around are numerous peaks and ridges that I do not know the name of. There is also a summit cross and a religious icon of a female saint (maybe Virgin Maria) at the summit.
A view from Piz Boè. Forcella Pordoi and Sasso Pordoi (with the cable car station) to the left.
Paul and Max are at the summit too and I am glad to see them again, I had not expected to. They tell me that they had eventually moved on from the Puezhütte and walked to Grödner Joch too, as Paul felt better, today they will go to Pordoi Joch. I have a coffee at the cabin before I start the climb down. Maybe I will regret not staying up here, at the highest place you can sleep at on Der Traumpfad (or close by it).
At the summit of Piz Boè.
A lot of people around and one of the reasons for that is the nearby cable car at Sasso Pordoi. If hiking down a steep slope of scree does not suit you, taking the cable car is understandable. The cliffs on the sides of the path down stands like a gate to the outside Dolomites, expanding as I progress down the path. Walking down goes fine most the time, but sometimes I feel the odd stone roll beneath my feet, loosening my grip.
Marmolada from the summit of Piz Boè.
Pordoi Joch is bustling with people, both coming down from the mountains, going up into them or just being there. First I go looking around to see if Martina and Johanna is there, they might be ahead of me, having passed by when I was up at Piz Boè, or they might still be behind me. Not finding the girls, I sit down at a place to eat.
At Forcella Pordoi looking back, Piz Boè with Rifugio Capanna Fassa on its top.
From Pordoi Joch, Der Traumpfad climbs up underneath the towering Sas Becè, passing by a small chapel before it arrives at another mountain cabin, Rifugio Fredarola. Then Martina phones me, answering my calls from before, and tells me that they are at the Rifugio Viel dal Pan and has secured a bed for me too. They had taken the cable car down.
Hikers walking down the scree from Forcella Pordoi.
Pordoi Joch, with Sasso Pordoi and Forcella Pordoi above.
With Sas Becè at my back, Der Traumpfad goes on a magnificent contouring path known as the Viel del Pan. Cutting across the green slopes of the ridge, I can see a grey line winding it way. This was once an old mule path used to transport flour, hence the Viel del Pan (Way of the Bread). Before the trail disappears behind the ridge, I get a last look at the Sella group with Piz Boè high above.
Sas Becè.
Views are no worse on the south side of the ridge, directly across the valley lies the Marmolada. By sight appearing like a big massif, but is in fact one mountain only. However, it does have several summits that rises above 3000m, of which the Punta Penia (3343m) and Punta Rocca (3309m) are the highest. They are also the highest summits in the Dolomites. I love walking on the path as it contours around the ridge, with the green colour as a stark contrast to the grey colour of the Marmolada on the opposite side. Getting closer to Rifugio Viel dal Pan I can see the blue colour of Lago di Fedaia further ahead, and Johanna coming running to meet me. The cabin lies on a great spot.
Walking on the Viel del Pan with Marmolada across the valley.
Marmolada.
Rifugio Viel dal Pan is a nice and not too big cabin. Once I am settled in the room, got a shower and changed into my evening clothes, I join the girls at the terrace for a cold beer in the sun. Dinner is also good, although I find the portions a tiny bit small. As dusk gathers around the Dolomites, the Marmolada becomes a magnet for photographers like Martina and I. Outside, the world is blue. A light can be seen glowing from the windows of one of the mountain huts on the other side. No thunderstorm occurred as someone said it would, but we are still happy to have walked here.
Lago di Fedaia, at the back the wall of the Civetta is visible.
It will be hard to differentiate between which of the last three days has been best on Der Traumpfad so far. Each day has had its special charm. Today, I could just stare and marvel at the white-grey expanse of the Sella plateau from above, as well as the expansive view of the surrounding mountains from Piz Boè, ending the wonder walking on the lovely Viel del Pan.
Marmolada in dusk.
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