Distance: 24.9km (318.0km), time spent: 8:11.
Weather: Sunny, nice and warm.
There is a shimmer of anticipation hanging in the air today as I wake up, and it is named the Dolomites. A mountain range many has described as the most beautiful in the world. I am not here to judge that claim, but I have always wanted to go hiking in them. Outside the window, I can see them, rising up behind the distinct outline of the Peitlerköfel. No clouds on the sky. Was it not supposed to be raining?
View from Kreuzwiesen Alm in the morning, Peitlerköfel dominating the view from the beginning.
Breakfast was just as good as the rest of the stay at the Kreuzwiesen Alm was, with locally produced cheese at the table. Martina and Johanna has already left when I walk out of the door. A lovely morning, walking on a forest track at first, soon heading up into the green and rolling open landscape above. These are not the jugged and spectacular mountains crashing into each other, but lovely verdant gentle hills rising above the trees. Sparse trees scattered around. It is a landscape that soothes your mind. Beautiful in its very essence.
Climbing up from Kreuzwiesen Alm through rolling verdant hills.
A sea of clouds from the summit of Campill.
The views awaiting me at the top of of Campill (2190m) is far better than I could ever have imagined. Credit must be given to staying in the middle of spectacular mountains and look out across them, but credit must also be given to standing between two mighty mountain ranges and look at them. To the north I have the Alps, to the south I have the Dolomites. From where I stand, I have almost the best of both worlds. Floating at the bottom of valley below are a sea of clouds. With the clouds forming and disforming, like an eternal dance.
Walking down from Campill, looking over the gentle Lusner Alps.
In the distance lies Peitlerköfel, like a beacon I can follow to find the way, later today the trail will pass underneath that Dolomite guard before climbing up beside it to continue into the Dolomites itself. Between lies an undulating and verdant hill landscape that almost keeps above 2000m all the way. The clouds are silently crashing into the mountainsides beneath me like waves, as I descend from Campill through scattered trees and yearning views.
Jacob Stöckl, a small chapel dedicated to St. Jacob, a pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela passes by here.
After descending, I arrive at another small chapel, Jacob Stöckl. No points for guessing this chapel is dedicated to St. Jacob. Inside the tiny chapel there are several scallops hanging, the symbol of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, and accordingly there is Camino de Santiago waymarker on the religous icon outside. Which route this is, is however unknown. No signs of the name outside and I have also been unable to find out which route it is later (in retrospect). Going over here would make it a candidate for one of the most beautiful of the ways to Santiago. If there is anybody who reads this and knows which route to Santiago this is, please make a comment on this post with the name of the route.
Looking back on my way towards Wieser Alm.
I pass by some mountain farms, built in a traditional old style, but not as many as yesterday and more scattered around. One of the few of them that the trail passes right by, Wieser Alm, is also selling refreshments and I take the opportunity to get a coffee. The surface is mostly gentle to walk on, with grass and heather on the sides of the path. To the south, the Dolomites are blue silhouettes against the blue sky.
Mountains, valleys and clouds.
Disappointments is something every hiker, or at least I, have to deal with occasionally. Sometimes we are unable to finish what we have started upon, we are unable to reach where we are heading to, we suffer an injury (minor or major), views are not as we envisioned them to be and maybe most of all, the weather obstructs us from seeing what we so very much want to see. That is usually the reason for most of my disappointments over the years. And it is also strongly interlinked with the expectations you have. High expectations are not always a good thing.
Glittner See with Peitlerköfel at the back.
Swan swimming in the Glittner See.
Therefore, I must concede that I get slightly disappointed when I reach the small lake of Glittner See. For I had seen pictures of a wooden boat deposited in the lake, with the Peitlerköfel as backdrop. The setting seemed so surreal that I had been looking so much forward to see it with my own eyes. To my discontent, the boat is gone, no longer there. Probably destroyed in a storm, possibly a thunderstorm. Still, with the Peitlerköfel mirroring itself in the water and swans swimming in the lake, it is a lovely view.
The path to Maurerberg (to the right).
After descending past the closed Turnaretscher Hütte, I come to a decisive junction of the path today. The path Der Traumpfad takes, goes south of and beneath the ridge of the Maurerberg, but another path is going over the Maurerberg. Usually, I opt for taking the official route, but this time I cannot control myself. From Lüsner Joch, the path up to Maurerberg follows the ridgeline going first over another peak called Ju da Val (2177m), before starting the climb up to the grassy summit of Maurerberg at 2332m.
Peitlerköfel from Maurerberg.
It is a layered view from the top to the north, first the green and gentle mountains of the Lusner Alps, then grey peaks towering up behind, with white snowcapped peaks all the way at the back. I wonder why the official route goes below instead of over here. Glad I let go of my usual purist mindset now.
The summit cross at Maurerberg, Zillertal Alps in the background.
Passing by this curious bench, with patchworks and views, on the way down to the Maurerberghütte.
The Maurerberghütte is strategically positioned for a lunch break, both in terms of getting food and for a break before the upcoming descent and ascent. I join Paul and Max at a table, who I briefly met on the climb through the forest to the Lusner Alps yesterday, and again at Kreuzwiesen Alm later on. Max will only walk for a couple of days, joining Paul who does the most of the route, but takes his own time doing it. Uncertain of the possibilites of getting it later on, I go for dessert as my lunch, kaiserschmarrn. This time with lingonberries.
On the ascent towards Würzjoch, views of Maurerberghütte on the other side.
Some elevation is lost, and then gained again, as the path descends to Pé de Börz (1870m) and then ascends up to Würzjoch (2006m). All pleasant walking through trees, but definitely the least interesting part of this day. Würzjoch stands at the gateway to the Dolomites, boasts places to stay, carparks and several places to eat or drink nearby. All in the vicinity of the towering Peitlerköfel, which has been the dominating object in the horizon all day. I know this is where Dieter and Karin will go to today. It is also where a lot of other people are driving to, the people count has significantly increased.
Peitlerköfel.
If the hike was beautiful so far today, it becomes stunning now. Looking up at the giant next to me, as Peitlerköfel (or Sass de Putia as it also known as) is a solitary mountain, I walk on a narrow path winding its way up and around the sides of the mountain. The views are delightful. When the valley is narrowing, the path gets steeper as it climbs up to the Peitlerscharte (2357m).
Climbing up towards Peitlerscharte.
On the other side of the pass lies a beautiful green valley, to the right is Der Traumpfad continuing on a winding contouring trail and to the left is Peitlerköfel standing menacingly and tempting above. Climbing up to the summit at 2875m is so tempting, but frankly put, I have a lot of climbing ahead of me. Instead, to partially satisfy my curiosity, I walk a little bit up on the path leading to the summit (with the danger of keep on climbing all the way up).
View from the ridge after Peitlerscharte.
Peitlerköfel is at the back now.
Maybe it is the feeling that the mountains are green that makes the Dolomites so beautiful. The mountains itself is not green, but they are covered by so much verdant surface that they certainly appear so, up to a certain altitude. Leaving Peitlerscharte, I walk on a lovely path that contours along the side of a ridge. Ahead is the great wall of the Púez Geisler group, which I will pass over tomorrow.
Lovely hiking towards the Schlüterhütte, with the Púez Geisler behind.
About thirty minutes of walking, I arrive at the wonderfully located Schlüterhütte, finding Martina and Johanna resting outside in the sun. Modern in appearance, but still keeping some of its original timber look, the Schlüterhütte is situated with wide ranging views between tall peaks. I have to wait a little, but they do manage to find a bed for me, otherwise the hut is quite full and busy. Hikers are arriving all the time. I should have washed my clothes, but sitting outside, basking in the sun and talk to Martina and Johanna, who are good company, was just too good.
Johanna and Martina basking in the sun at the Schlüterhütte.
To sum up an amazing day, the sunset is wonderful, with warm colors dousing the hut and surrounding mountains. I eat dinner together with Martina and Johanna, as well as other guests as the dinning room is full, but the mood is convivial.
Sunset from the Schlüterhütte.
Without doubt, the best day so far on Der Traumpfad. Hiking with views of the Alps on one side and the Dolomites on the other side was splendid. I regret not climbing the Peitlerköfel, I would probably had enough time to make it, but getting a bed at the Schlüterhütte would be more uncertain then. I have entered the Dolomites, the future looks bright, but there are dark clouds looming far away in the distance. I sneak into my cramped room full of people and goes to sleep.
Schlüterhütte in the evening.
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