Distance: 18.9km (433.5km), time spent: 8:31.
Weather: Mostly nice and clear, some fog.
It is an absolutely stunning morning as we prepare for one of the most anticipated days on our hike. Outside, the sky is close to pink and is making the perfect frame for Mont Pelmo and the snow-clad peaks behind. Breakfast at Rifugio San Sebastiano consists of plenty of food, so we should have enough energy for the upcoming climbs. There is little doubt as to where we are heading today, the Rifugio Pian de Fontana. The problem, for my part at least, is that it is a small cabin and everybody seems to be heading that way. That would not been a problem, had it not been for where I am heading tomorrow. The closest cabin after Pian de Fontana is on the wrong way, the cabin before will make tomorrow way too long.
Stunning morning at Passo Duran with Mont Pelmo in the morning light.
To get to the trailhead for the hike today, we have to walk a bit down the road. In the horizon, clouds are frothing around the peaks, otherwise a blue sky. From the turnoff from the road, the path heads into to the forest up to the Forcella Dagarei at 1620m. Illuminated by sunlight through the trees, I catch up with Katherine. For all the walking high up in the mountains, the few times the trail heads through woods is a pleasant time.
Clouds assaulting a mountain in the horizon as I leave Passo Duran in the morning.
View from below Castello de Moschesin.
Heading out of the forest on a contouring path below Castello de Moschesin, the views are far more open here than they were on the similar path below Moiazza yesterday. Clouds are still encircling the peaks far on the other side in the horizon.
Katherine walking through the woods, with sunlight filtered through the trees.
In a clearing we arrive at Malga Moschesin, an emergency shelter with a water source just outside of it. Although a little dusty, as expected, it looks good enough if need be. Another couple arrives, followed by a dog, which is not theirs. It had suddenly followed them earlier down and now it seems like it is latching onto us. We do not know what to do with the dog, but as another couple passes by, it starts to follow them instead. Hopefully it will find its way back to its righteous owners.
Path going below Castello de Moschesin.
Ascending from the emergency hut, first through low trees and vegetation, the path heads south of Castello de Moschesin. As we walk here, we can see the mountain we will climb over later. From here we will go to the Forcella del Moschesin, passing nearby the Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet, then begin a long and steady climb up to the Forcella de Zitá Sud, hidden somwhere up in the mountain, peaks and clouds ahead.
Abandoned old barracks with the Spiz de Moschesin behind.
At Forcella del Moschesin remains of old military barracks dating back to the years around 1920 are found, all made by stone, no roofs, but arches and windows. Near the abandoned buildings there are two routes to choose from, the official route goes down and around, but the path I choose to follow climbs a little up before it goes on top of a ridge with splendid views. It then later on descends and rejoins the official route.
Val Balanzola underneath Moschesin, Mont Pelmo in the clouds behind.
The eastern flank of the Castello de Moschesin lines up the left hand side of the view, with towering cliffs at the top, pointing towards Mont Pelmo again coming into view. On the right side are the peaks of Spiz Di Tita, Spigol De Palon and Spiz Di Mezzodi Nord rising. In between, Val Balanzola. I find it strange that the official route follows the path going down into the Val Balanzola valley, rather than up here.
Mont Pelmo.
Der Traumpfad does not go directly to the doors of the Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet, but we do. It is a small and seemingly charming cabin. It has been blue sky and sunny above us so far on the hike, but now at the cabin, the sun is hiding behind the clouds encircling above the mountain looming over us. Which is exactly where we will be heading up into later. Most people sit inside the cabin, but we find a table outside and I have a dish of pasta as lunch.
Alpine meadows at Pra de la Vedova at Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet with Castello de Moschesin at the back.
Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet.
So far it has been gentle climbing only, but now the real ascent begins. From Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet the trail first climbs up to Portela del Piazedel and the further up to Forcella de Zitá Sud. A little bit further up from the refuge, I find an opening of what seems to be a tunnel heading into the mountain. Afterwards, I scold myself for not braving to go all the way, but who knows what it is or was for or how far in it goes. I only walked a couple of meters into it before turning back, not knowing how safe it would be. Ahead of me, I can see Katherine, who left earlier than me from Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet, and Lutz, and I soon overtake them. I know Martina and Johanna are far ahead of me, of Florian I do not know.
Inside the tunnel in the hill.
The path is steadily climbing and further up at the crest of Portela del Piazedel, I can see silhouettes of other hikers against the grey clouds. For it is no doubt, I will be heading up into the fog. There is a flat expanse after the pass, all limestone grey. Clouds hides the peaks above, with a visible line crossing over the expanse and heading up into them. I had hoped for clear weather on this section, but there is a certain atmosphere and mood hiking up into mountains engulfed by clouds too. Those who have read my first days on the trail, would remember that I was not as positive when faced with the Benediktenwand disappearing up into the clouds.
Looking back on the climb up to Portela del Piazedel, Katherine and Lutz on their way up. Rifugio Sommariva al Pramperet visible.
Val Piazedel, path heading up into the clouds and Cima de Zitá Sud.
As I ascend, the clouds are closing in the views of the expanse and the mountains behind. The upper parts of the ridge I head towards to is just visible above the clouds. Forcella de Zitá Sud is entirely hidden by them, path disappearing upwards. I can hear faint voices around, mostly echoes between the mountains. Then, in the lack of a better word, a hiking miracle occur. For when I arrive at the pass, it is like emerging straight out of the clouds, like they vanished in the very instant I set foot on the pass. Suddenly, all of the mountains in the horizon, both close and near, appeared before my eyes. Magnificent.
Clouds closing in, on the way up to Forcella de Zitá Sud.
At Forcella de Zitá Sud, suddenly the clouds gave way.
It is so great that I have to go back a little bit to enjoy the view behind me too, as the clouds behind now has lifted, lying like a lid or roof above the scenery. Just a short hike up from the pass lies Cime de Zitá Sud, at 2450m. From the top, I can look down at the valley below with the trail a clear line leading to the significant drop at the edge. A steep path leading down from the top makes it possible to climb Talvena, located to the right of me. It is sorely tempting, but with my little anxiety of getting a bed for the night, I am content to just look at it from here. Back down at the pass, I meet Katherine and I lure her to climb up to the top too.
Mountains underneath the clouds, view of the mountains after going back from Forcella de Zitá Sud.
From Forcella de Zitá Sud I walk down into the valley with Cime de Zitá Sud towering above me. Marmots are running around, some sending forth their usual warning cries. A wonderful walk is at an end when I stand at the top of steep descent to towards Rifugio Pian de Fontana. There is even a warning signpost here noticing hikers that the hike down is for experts only. So, if I make it down, I am an expert. If not? Well...
View north from the top of Cima de Zitá Sud. The path well visible. And in the horizon, the Civetta, the Moiazza, Moschesin and Mont Pelmo.
Close view of the valley below Cima de Zitá Sud.
The descent is truly steep, going in switchbacks, but I arrive at the cabin greeted by Martina and Johanna. They had not been able to secure a place for me here, being told that it was full. However, I do manage to get a bed, the last one available. Lutz, arriving somewhat later (I had passed him by at the start of the steep descent), had booked a bed and is covered. Both Katherine and Florian, who arrived later, had to be put on a waiting list. They are both comfortable with it, as they both also carried gear for sleeping out. In the end, they get a bed too, there was a couple having booked who did not show up.
Marmot.
No hot water in the shower left.
Rifugio Pian de Fontana.
The refuge has a nice terrace outside, where we sit down for an afternoon beer. In the evening, we gather inside for a good meal together with an Israeli couple doing part of the Alta Via 1. As the sun sets, the sky turns pink once again, ending the way it started in the morning.
Dinner at Rifugio Pian de Fontana, Martina, Johanna, me, Katherine, Israelian girl, Lutz, Israelin boy (somewhat hidden) and Florian.
A straight out wonderful day on Der Traumpfad.
Sunset from Pian de Fontana.
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