Distance: 21.0km (339.0km), time spent: 8:38.
Weather: A beautiful clear blue sky.
Ahead of me lies several days of the best walking the Dolomites has to offer. From the Schlüterhütte, Der Traumpfad is heading into three of the most characteristic areas of the Dolomites, the Púez Geisler, Sella and Marmolada. But for all its glory, it cannot stop the rumours of foul weather crossing over the very same mountains. A storm is coming and it is heading our way. The next stage of the trail is shorter in distance, although it compensates some for that in terms of climbing required. From the Schlüterhütte, the regular Traumpfad hiker would walk to the Puezhütte. With the news of the approaching storm, I aim to go further. Not to escape the storm, for that I cannot, but to see as much as I can before it hits.
Beautiful views of the Campilltal valley below and mountains behind in the morning.
As expected are Martina and Johanna ahead of me when I manage to get going in the lovely morning. From the Schlüterhütte it is back up on to the verdant ridgeline, which the trail will follow all the way to where the major climb starts up to the Forcella Roa, about one and a half kilometre. With the views, I wish it was longer. It is straight out beautiful to see the green and rolling alpine meadows fall down from the sides of the ridge towards the cliffs and trees coming up from the valley below. When I look back, I see the green ridge pointing towards the rising throne of the Peitlerköfel, now lying as a beacon behind me. Blue mountains in the background. Wow.
Who can do nothing but love this view? Peitlerköfel and beyond.
View back from the ridge above Bronsoijoch, Schlüterhütte visible almost at the centre of the picture.
The trail climbs over the Bronsoijoch pass (2421m), where curiosity leads to a climb further up on the ridge leading away from the path. Splendid views both ways and down into the valley below. Most impressive is the massive wall of the Púez Geisler, I can see the trail as a distinct line rising ever higher until it reaches a point where it turns into one of those impossible looking ascents and descents.
The path to Medalges Alm with the sheer walls of the Púez Geisler at the back, somewhere up there is Forcella Roa.
After passing by the Medalges Alm, an alternative place to stay to the Schlüterhütte, the path continues its contour alongside the ridge before the real climb begins. In the valley below, green undulating meadows are seen with scattered farmsteads around. And then the climb begins, slowly and gentle at first, clearly visible is the steep pass I am heading towards. Further up I can see two people moving, which must be Martina and Johanna. Above me to the right is Furchetta towering at 3025m. I overtake Martina and Johanna.
The climb to Forcella Roa.
Prayer flags fluttering in the wind at Forcella Roa.
As the climbing progresses, the world changes from emerald green to grey, but the path is good to walk on until the final steep haul up. On the last part, the path is going in zig-zag up through a steep field of scree. The views back are just marvellous. Next to the path, we pass by small religious icons and a memorial to a hiker that passed away here. Buddhist prayer flags are fluttering in the wind as we get close to the top. I reach Forcella Roa at 2815, about one and a half hour after I left Schlüterhütte, and about two and a half kilometre away.
Martina climbing up towards Forcella Nives.
For those that found the climb up to Forcella Roa challenging, the next step on the trail must be intimidating. From the pass the path leading towards the Forcella Nives is a solid reminder of that, but first we spend some time at Forcella Roa. I climb up next to a little spire standing tall above the pass, it sort of looks a like a hand pointing a finger towards the sky.
Me climbing up towards Forcella Nives, picture courtesy of Johanna.
The magnificent view from Forcella Nives after the climb up.
Forcella Nives can be avoided by taking another path leading away from Forcella Roa, this route will climb up to the Forcella de Sieles instead and will rejoin the route later on, still steep. It is a short walk through scree and then cables, wires and bolts kicks in. Following the red-white-red blazes we scramble up through gaps, over rocks, back and forth up the cliffside. It is a fun climb. There is even a ladder somewhere there too. Enough nooks and crannies to get a good hold on, the climb looks more intimidating than it really is, but not that you should not be careful.
Unadulterated Dolomites view, Mont Pelmo at the back, the Civetta at the back to the right, Forcella de Ciampei is the gap in the middle.
Views from the top are excellent, but I should get even better views later on as I seek revenge for not climbing up to the summit of Peitlerköfel. At the top of the pass there is a path going up to the summit of Piz Duleda, and it does not look deterrent either. I try to get Martina and Johanna to make the climb too, but they are determined to keep on walking, so I drop my backpack a little further up and venture up alone. The climb up to the summit is not hard or difficult, some places near the top might feel exposed to some, but there are good enough clearing to feel safe.
At the summit of Piz Duleda.
Piz Duleda, with the last views of Peitlerköfel. The Alps in the background.
The views from the summit of Piz Duleda (2909m) are just splendid. From here the Alps are dominating the background from where I have come from, towards where I am going, the Sella and Civetta groups of the Dolomites are dominating, as well as the towering husk of Mont Pelmo. Other hikers are slowly coming up too, as well as a couple of crows. I feel I got redemption for not climbing Peitlerköfel.
The busy, but beautifully located Puezhütte.
Views of the Vallunga Langental Val valley.
Down at Forcelle Nives, the rest of the walk to the Puezhütte is a beautiful walk through scree at first, then grass with alpine flowers. As Peitlerköfel was a beacon in the distance yesterday, Mont Pelmo is it now, the only difference is that Der Traumpfad does not visit that mountain. As if stated on a boring repeat, the views are delightful. Especially the sheer plunge of the valley next to, Vallunga Langental Val.
Stairs at the Forcella de Ciampei.
Puezhütte is extremely busy, due to its great location. Martina and Johanna are getting ready to go as I arrive. Looking at the clock confirms my suspicion that I would arrive too early here to stop walking for the day, being only a quarter past one, although there should be plenty of great climbing excurions I could do from the hut. Basking in the sun, I order some dumplings for lunch. Leaving, I pass by Paul and Max, who have decided to stay at the Puezhütte as Paul is not feeling well.
Views from Forcella de Ciampei.
Looking back at the Puez Geisler, Piz Duleda in the middle.
From the hut, Der Traumpfad goes around the end of the Vallunga Langental Val to the Forcella de Ciampei pass. To get across the pass, I have to climb down a wooden staircase between narrow cliffs. Passing by great views of the valley below the pass, I start to climb up again. This time I have the mountains I have passed over and beneath on the other side of the valley. Above a path is heading up towards Sas di Ciampac (2672m), but I stiffle the urge to take that path (but of course I should have taken it). Instead, I dutifully follow Der Traumpfad as it swings up towards the Forcella de Crespiena (2528m).
Cross at Forcella de Crespiena.
A cross looking more like a fork is standing at the top of the pass, from where the views are directed between cliffs on both sides towards the horizon. The path goes first down into the valley below, the top of the Chedultal, before it climbs up towards the Passo Cir (2469m). Three times a charm they say, as I catch up with Martina and Johanna again. I might actually be walking faster than I intend to, just because I am excited about the scenery. Spires and weird eroded towers are standing at both sides of the path as we descends from Passo Cir through Danter les Pizes.
Towering cliffs on each side of the Chedultal, view from Forcella de Crespiena.
From Passo Cir the path goes down and through these extraordinary spires at Danter les Pizes.
We had before agreed to head for Grödner Joch, also known as Passo Gardena, the valley nearby should be known to many, Val Gardena. On the other side is the wall of the Sella massif a staggering reminder of what awaits tomorrow. Back in the land of ski lifts and ski station paraphernalia we arrive at the Hotel Cir. They have only one room left, a double room, but after talking a bit, they provide us with an additional mattress. The girls of course get the bed, I take the floor.
Looking down at Grödner Joch with the Sella massif above.
The Dolomites have greeted me with wonderful scenery and weather, but as we get further into the mountains, the bad weather is also coming closer. In the evening, I eat dinner together with Martina and Johanna at the Rifugio Frara, just to change scenery for the evening, we have become a good little trio hiking Der Traumpfad. Quite good food, with views that changes hue as both sky and cliffs becomes more and more red. A splendid day.
Sella massif in the sunset.
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