Distance: 14.5km (397.7km), time spent: 7:07.
Weather: Rain and fog.
Alleghe was allegedly the place where I had originally planned to make a zero day on this trail. A slightly bigger place means slightly more to do, usually, and options around if needed. Martina and Johanna also felt that a day of rest would be in order, but as we discussed it, it became clear that they wanted to spend it in the mountains instead. Cannot argue with that, actually, so we decided to hike up to the Rifugio Tissi today, braving another day with rain.
Johanna on a path leaving Alleghe, trees fallen over.
Martina was on the other hand not so keen on doing the first part of the hike up into the Civetta, which looms above Alleghe, so she wanted to take the cable car up from the town. Johanna and I would walk the whole way. With another rainy day ahead of us, we were not so sorry that this stage is not the longest one, albeit the climb up to the Rifugio Tissi does involve an ascent of about 1800m.
A farm above Alleghe with the Civetta above it again.
Where we are headed.
Seeing the damage that the storm has done to the valley, I am a little bit anxious about the state of the path today. At least until we are above the tree line. And after having done the initial walk up through the town, my fears comes true. Soon after stepping onto the path leaving the town, Johanna and I are facing ribbons crossing over the path and a signpost telling us that the path is closed due to damage from the storm.
Above Piani di Pezze, two walkers having come down looks out over the rainy scenery.
On the path up from Forcella di Alleghe.
Thankfully, it has not begun to rain yet, there is even a hint of a blue sky hidden somewhere up into the clouds. Looking at my map, I plot an alternative route for us to get up to the Piani di Pezze. This involves more roadwalking than wanted, but will get us there. We walk on paths through trees, both standing and fallen, through the small hamlet of Coldemies, past farms with the Civetta towering behind. Clouds are clinging to the side and cliffs of the mountain like moths to a light. The last part of the climb up to Piani di Pezze goes on a longer forest path, and then the rain finally announces its arrival.
A grey world in the horizon when looking back from the climb up from Forcella di Alleghe.
Johanna seems determined to go on, but I manage to lure her in for a hot drink at a restaurant at Piani di Pezze. This is where the cable car from Alleghe goes to, and it is possible to take a ski lift further from there up to Col dei Baldi. Doing this will make you bypass most of the ascent, and tody, most of the rain too.
Mont Pelmo.
From Piani di Pezze we trudge up to the Forcella di Alleghe under a blanket of rain, walking on the grassy ski slopes at first and then on a gravel track. At the pass, the Alta Via Dolomiti 1 is coming in from the north and we will share paths for a couple of days, like the Alta Via 2 in the previous days. If the weather had been nice, we would have been rewarded with a grand view of Mont Pelmo from the pass. Although, in truth, seeing the giant loom inside its cloak of dramatic clouds is kind of wonderful too. Brief interludes lets ut glimpse more parts of it, even that the upper part of the mountain now wear a cap of snow.
The path up to Rifugio Coldai goes next to the steep cliffside, here looking backwards with views of Mont Pelmo.
The views down the valley are striking as the path begin to show its true nature, having left the litter from the ski station behind. The path is climbing upwards in turns with poor Johanna having to constantly wait for me as I brave the weather to get a dramatic shot. Point is, even in this deluge, the scenery is beautiful, albeit in a sad hue. Mont Pelmo is mostly seen only as a looming shadow in between the clouds and rain, occasionally showing more of itself. People are coming down, stern faces beneath the hoods or umbrellas, mostly coming from Rifugio Coldai I guess, but some might even be coming from Rifugio Tissi.
Views from Rifugio Coldai.
Johanna above Rifugio Coldai.
Steep cliffs next to the path and more ominous views of Pelmo in the back as the trail does the final climb up to the Rifugio Coldai. Walking up in the mountains in this kind of weather makes it more awe-inspiring I think. The cabin lies at 2132m, should normally give you a splendid overview of the valley below and what is behind, and is a perfect place and time for lunch. Opening the doors lets out a multitude of sounds, it is busy, but we manage to get a table. And soon finds ourselves steaming as the warmth inside starts to dry our clothes. A plate of fried potatoes sounds tempting, but what is this I see on the drinking menu? Diesel? I do not know what that is, but finds out that it is a mix of coca-cola and beer. That is too much of a weird combination, so I have to try it. It tastes weird too, not quite to my taste.
Lago Coldai.
Fueled up by the diesel, we don our rain gear and heads out into the rain again. We were lucky, for the rain had intensified while we were inside the hut, but now it looks like it is less than before we arrived. A little away lies the Forcelle Coldai, from where we can get our first view of Lago Coldai. Both Marmolada and the Sella are visible from the pass, but not today. The glacier lake is however, and it is a nice walk around it, looking at the troubled water and the tormented cliffs of the Civetta above and behind.
Lago Coldai and the Civetta.
Walk from Forcella Col Negro.
There is a lot we will miss out on in this weather, one thing I will come back to in a later post, but views of the Valle Cordevole and Alleghe below is another. After Lago Coldai, the rain has abated significantly, but the clouds are still lingering. There are sudden gaps in them now, and when Johanna deems it is time for a chocolate break, the clouds opens up and shows us the world below. Far down we can see Alleghe, now some hours ago, and the water of the lake, Lago di Alleghe.
Clouds arising from the depths.
View down at Alleghe and the lake.
We are getting closer now to our destination, following a well-worn path that is good to walk on. Instead of a large blanket obscuring the west wall of the Civetta, there are now just several smaller clouds floating across it. I doubt there are any climbers up there now, but who knows. Streams of clouds comes drifting up from the valley. We look at a Jesus idol, then recognizes that is a memorial to a well-known climber who died on the wall above, Marco Anghilero.
A memorial to a dead climber.
Rifugio Tissi is located just 30 meters or so down from the summit of Cima di Col Rean. Martina has of course arrived and has secured a bed for us, and we find her resting at the room when we arrive. It is a cosy little hut, with the heat turned on. We also share room with Katherine, who joins us for the evening. She is walking the Alta Via 1 and so we will be sharing the trail for some days now too.
The path leading up to where we stand at Forcella Col Rean.
The Civetta.
Outside there is a heart (which can be used to frame both the cabin and the scenery) and is the only place I make any excursions to during the afternoon and evening, otherwise just happy to relax inside the hut. Dinner is good and in the evening we play mikado.
Heart outside Rifugio Tissi.
Satisfied with the day, although the hike up to Rifugio Tissi only got into its moment when we reached the Forcella di Alleghe. From there the views of Mont Pelmo, Lago Coldai and the Civetta made the day. However, the damage that the fierce storm in the autumn last year made, does provide some bad omens for the upcoming parts of the hike, but I will worry about it then. I am happy to go here instead of staying back in Alleghe.
Hut life, playing mikado with Katherine, Martina and Johanna.
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