Distance: 29.1km (533.7km), time spent: 8:14.
Weather: Pretty.
As if to compensate for the lack of elevation, the distances on the remaining stages are longer. Of course, this could easily be mitigated by walking shorter distances if needed or wanted. Normally the walkers head for Ponte della Priulä on this stage, but as the description is of a rather nondescript town with nothing to show, I instead want to go to Susegana. By the guidebook, Susegana can offer the remains of a castle and is more interesting.
Morning view of the Italian countryside from Le Noci.
Lutz on the other hand, has decided to head back home. His knees are troubling him and he has an appointment back home he needs to catch. Thankfully, some of the other guests at our accommodation had a free seat and could drive him to a train station. And then there were three...
The chef at Agriturismo Le Noci preparing the dinner for the evening.
In the morning we get to see the chef at the Agriturismo Le Noci in action, in an open fireplace he has two rotating barrels of skewers. On the skewers are meat, which he is marinating and slowly barbecuing using the heat from the fireplace. Another night and dinner here would not be a bad thing. The breakfast was just as bountiful.
Italian countryside.
However, we have to return to the trail and if we manage to break free from the lure of the food, can be done in two ways. Either go a direct path straight down from Agriturismo Le Noci or return back the way we came from and rejoin the path where we left it. Going the direct way means omitting a small part of the trail, which if you are pragmatic is most likely the good choice. I am not, and for some reason Johanna decides to walk with me.
Back on Der Traumpfad the path goes on a short, but scenic path.
View back towards the one of the last hills on the walk.
The backtracking and walk around is certainly agreeable. Back on Der Traumpfad, we walk for a short while on a green path through trees next to a small gurgling creek. I think my shoulders are relaxed now in terms of the lack of mountains and walk ahead. We leave the forest path before heading through the village of Prapian on paved road. A car is driving past us, coming from the opposite direction, Lutz is waving frantically at us from the front seat. The last goodbye. We walk past where we believe the path down from Agriturismo Le Noci is coming, when we hear whistling coming from within the trees. Although not planned for, Florian has amusingly synchronized his time of arrival perfectly.
Ruins of an old farm stands in the middle of a field.
I feel back on the Camino now, the surface has changed back to a dirt road, next to us is either a verdant wall or open agricultural scenery with remnants of farm buildings in. I think that my hiking boots will be too heavy for the last days, but that I will manage. Many hikers who complete the trail all the way, are apparently buying new lightweight shoes in Belluno (where there are shops for it) and posts their old shoes back home.
Above the Mollinetto della Croda.
A gathering of mopeds.
After a lovely walk, we arrive at what is the highlight of the day. Molinetto della Croda is a watermill dating back to the 17th century, and produced flour until the middle of the 20th century. We try to 'sneak' in through a path on the upside of it, past the pleasant pools above the waterfall, but the final gate is barred to us. Being famous there are quite a crowd here, but it is not overcrowded. Maybe for the good, if the dark events in August 2014 should reoccur. Then a flash food consisting of a five foot wave hit a marquee containing a hundred men. Twenty people got injured, four people died.
Mollinetto della Croda.
It is a scenic spot. At the foot of the waterfall next to the old mill there is a pond. Two ducks are standing at a small rowboat inside it. I had hoped there was more water flowing down the waterfall, but I guess this is the wrong season. After sitting down with a coffee, we move on. Outside, there is a huge gathering of Vespa mopeds.
Vineyards and hills.
Things become less interesting after the Molinetto della Croda, but still pleasant in a way. There is no escaping walking on a paved road now for a long time. Around are vineyards, farms and religious icons. This section actually sports their own Der Traumpfad (München - Venedig) signposts. Back in the horizon is Col Visentin again appearing behind us. We walk through Refrontolo, after which the surface becomes flatter, or descending in a very low degree.
Roadwalk after Refrontolo.
The walk after Refrontolo has not much of interest. Mostly walking on a paved road, with more vineyards, farms and places people live next to the road. I am not bored, however, easing into the scenery we will be walking in for the next days. In Barbisano we find a bench with a German flag attached to it. Johanna and Florian take their appointed places on the bench, I have to stand. The mood is good. From Barbisano we walk past what appear to be a railway museum, although we are not sure. Rusty, old train sets are placed outside a storage building.
The German bench in Barbisano, Johanna and Florian trying to hold their posture.
Rusty old trains outside Barbisano.
Next to Molinetto della Croda, the village of Collato is what I had been looking forward the most to today. I have a fascination of ruins, kindled anew on my hike of GR1 Sendero Historico a couple of years ago with all its ruins of castles, towers and abandoned villages. In Collato there is the remains of a 14th century castle. Great is then the disappointment when we find the castle closed due to its bad state and that it is dangerous to venture into it (apparently). We sit down in a restaurant and now I feel that the level of blood sugar is low. It was in high time to have lunch, at least for my part, I get annoyed when they say that we cannot get anything to eat. Then it turns out that they can still make some food, some juicy meat to an equally juicy price. I feel stuffed afterwards.
Tower at Castello di Collalto.
Walking gets more pleasant again having left Collato, returning to a dirt track through woods or overlooking scenic vineyards. I capture a religious icon illuminated by streaming sunlight. Approaching Susegana, having left Der Traumpfad, there are two things standing out. One is the Castello San Salvatora castle clearly visible, second is the flat landscape awaiting us. More apparent from here than before.
Illuminated icon on the way to Susegana.
Castello San Salvatora is beckoning as we walk around it. We walk around it surrounding walls, looking up at its parapets, guard towers, gates and stone buildings. One of the towers looks like a tulip tower, whatever that is. Almost endless rows of vineranks are below the castle. I look forward to see the castle from within, then we find out that it is only open for visits on the first Wednesday of each month and needs to be pre-booked. What a letdown. This was the main reason for leaving the trail and visit Susegana. If we were to arrive too late we could only blame ourselves, but this was not what I had expected.
Walk to Susegana.
Florian leaves us here, aiming to find a place to sleep out. Johanna and I are continuing to find our upmarket hotel. We are tired now and then it turns out that the hotel lies a little bit outside of Susegana too. Given the opening hours of the castle and the location of the hotel, I am not sure that I would recommend walking to Susegana instead of Ponte della Priulä. We do not spend much time in Susegana either.
Castello San Salvatora, nice on the outside, but we wanted to see the inside too.
The facade of Hotel Astoria is not particularly striking, but our room is nice. Quiet in the hotel lobby and on the terrace outside, being out of season, but that suits me fine. From our room, we can look towards the castle, with the towers and walls as silhouettes against the atmospheric vaning afternoon light. While the hotel is slightly upmarket, we are probably not the guests that are leaving behind most money. My lunch is still lying heavily in my stomach, so I settle for a caesar salad, which in turn is very good.
Another view of Castello San Salvatora, notice the 'tulip' tower.
The first full day not in the mountains can be said to be a gentle day. I was in a good mood throughout the day, with the exception when my blood sugar was low in Collalto, just let myself flow along the cultural landscape we walked through. Not a day with exceptional highlights and a longer section of less interest, but in all a nice day. It will be even flatter tomorrow.
Afternoon view from the hotel in Susegana.
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