Distance: 16.7km (414.6km), time spent: 7:35.
Weather: Clouds, and a nice blue sky.
From Rifugio Tissi, the next stage on Der Traumpfad usually goes to the Rifugio Bruto Carestiato, but if you want to cut down on the longer next day, it would be wiser to walk a little bit further. Some 3km down from the refuge lies Passo Duran, where there is also accommodation to be found, which is where we are heading today. The hike will continue on its course alongside the towering walls of the Civetta, and later the Moiazza.
Morning bliss, Civetta.
Return to the summit of Cima di Col Rean for another great view of Alleghe below and the mountains behind.
Outside the cabin in the morning, the snow still lingers. Clouds too, but there is light breaking through them, creating a wonderful light and scenery. Before breakfast, I make time to do another visit to the summit above. The summit cross is glazed with snow. And it is curious to see the exact and almost straight line of the snow in the mountains at the back of the wonderful view.
Summit cross at Cima di Col Rean.
Snow lines the first steps from the cabin, a beautiful start of a walk, but I know it will not last. As I get further down, the surface returns to its more normal green color, leaving the snow to linger in the higher altitudes. The path winds down into a small forested belt, past another memorial, before it heads out into a mountain meadow with ruins of an old farm. I see Katherine take a peek inside it, before I looks into it too not long after. Behind me, high above, I can see Rifugio Tissi situated atop the white patch of snow. The west wall of the Civetta is slowly turning away from me.
Leaving Rifugio Tissi on a clear path between the snow (and emerging green surface).
The ruins of Cason di Col Rean with the Civetta above, Rifugio Tissi visible to the left.
From here, the trail descends further down, but fear not, it will be a lot more climbing to do later. On the left hand side, the path goes around the towering Torre Venezia, a potent reminder of where I am heading. At least in name. Clouds are dispersing, blue sky appear and with it a burning sun. Light steps as younger girls passes me by. The path has widen, turned into a gravel track, as it heads down to the Rifugio Vazzoler. The next place to turn to if there is no place available at the Rifugio Tissi.
Botanical garden at Rifugio Vazzoler.
Rifugio Vazzoler with the Torre Venezia above.
Rifugio Vazzoler does not share the same spectacular location as the previous hut, being more secluded inside trees. In other words, no views to be had, but the place looks serene in its location. And is definitely a stop for a cup of coffee. It also has a small private botanical garden, with tiny labyrinthine paths going around various flowers and plants.
The Moiazza as a shaded backdrop to illuminated conifers.
In the distance, the Moiazza is replacing the Civetta. Not as tall or large as Civetta, but still impressive, could maybe count as its little brother. The gravel track keeps going in twists and turns, a long way down towards the bottom of the valley. Thankfully, I do not have to follow it all the way down, leaving it after a couple of the turns. Pinnacles towering above and behind, some of them still wearing snow. Shaded and almost blue mountainsides as a backdrop to green pine trees.
Looking down at Val Colon, Der Traumpfad keeps underneath the shade of the Moiazza and ascends up to the pinnacle seen to the left.
Then the trail leaves the gravel track, turns onto a path and starts to climb towards Forcella Col dell'Orso. Under the watch of the Moiazza above, I pass over fields of scree, small creeks and walks up and through scenic woods. While walking through the trees, I meet Florian again. They had to leave yesterday in the snow, since his friend had to travel back home again. After countless rocks and boulders, sometimes sparse vegetation, we arrive at Forcella Col dell'Orso, where Florian deems it is time to play the barrista. That is, of course, a hiker style barrista. Beats the view from any coffeehouse in any city, anytime.
Path towards Forcella Col dell'Orso.
Coffee break at Forcella Col dell'Orso.
Up to Forcella Coll dell'Orso, the views had been lingering on the majestic Moiazza to the left of me and the pinnacles of Torre Venezia and its neighbors at the back. There is still snow on the highest peaks at the back, but it is now all gone on the lower ones. If looking away from the Moiazza, I would see rows of peaks in the back and a steep valley cut off by steep cliffs.
Cables and overhang as we continue towards Forcella del Camp.
I bow my head underneath a overhanging cliff, path reassured by the cables attached to the sides of the cliff, then walk on further while I wonder if I should climb Lastia di Framont (2294m) at the end of the view. The trail passes by the remnants of an old farm, Casera del Camp, only the lower parts of the stonewalls are left standing. I let Lastia di Framont go and climb up to the next pass, Forcella del Camp, from where a short walk down leads to a religious icon before the path heads into a short stretch of forest.
View down the valley from the path (seen winding below the cliffs to the right).
Looking back towards the Civetta and Torre Venezia.
Der Traumpfad now turns around and goes on the south side of the Moiazza, heading towards the Rifugio Bruto Carestiato. The cabin is visible at the tip of where the line of peaks towering above me ends. Blue sky and green valleys are to the south of me as I walk underneath the mountains with their noses in the clouds.
Ruins of Casera del Camp.
Johanna, Martina and Katherine is at the cabin, having had their lunch, but they are now waiting for me to have lunch too. They tell me they had written my name in the sand below the religious icon below the Forcella del Camp pass, and show me pictures of it. And I had just walked blindly and ignorantly past it, not seeing it.
Rifugio Bruto Carestiato ahead.
The path leading towards Rifugio Bruto Carestiato.
Above Rifugio Bruto Carestiato is one of the most famous and tough via ferratas in the Dolomites, Ferrata Constanini. I had long ponded about doing it while hiking this trail, or some other via ferrata. Then decided to only focus on the hike. As I hear voices from high up, I do regret that decision in a way, although I learn that those I hear are not doing the via ferrata, but are climbing.
Katherine and Martina showing my name in the ground, and I just walked blindly past it later. Picture courtesy of Johanna.
From the cabin it is a short and pleasant 40 minute walk down to Passo Duran and Rifugio San Sebastiano. Arriving out of the trees above the pass, we get splendid views of Mont Pelmo. Thankfully, there are no problems getting a bed for all of us, including Florian and Lutz who arrive a little bit later than us. We soon find ourselves sitting outside in the warm afternoon sun. On the other side of the road, there is a small, curious and distinct chapel, Chiesetta degli Alpini al Passo Duran. It looks like something out of a Disney fairytale.
Mont Pelmo.
Chiesetta degli Alpini al Passo Duran.
A good evening follows in the cabin. Although it is situated right next to a road, it is all quiet here, only a few cars pass by. The cabin has an open fireplace, we have a good dinner. The hike is now going towards its last days, with just a few days between us and the last flat days towards Venice. I do worry a little bit, though, about getting a place tomorrow. Due to the snow and inclement weather, it appeared that several hikers stopped up and now everyone are aiming for the same small cabin at the end of day tomorrow. For me, due to my plans, not getting a place to sleep there would be a problem. But lets take that problem tomorrow, and now just be happy for another nice day on Der Traumpfad.
At the fireplace in Rifugio San Sebastiano, Johanna, Katherine and me.
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