Sunday, September 8, 2019

Der Traumpfad // day 20 // Cima di Col Rean

Der Traumpfad, day 20.
Distance: 0.2km (397.9km).
Weather: Snow.


No walking today, as we had designated this a zero day. We had to wait a little in the morning, but eventually got a permission to keep our room at the refuge. Maybe the biggest problem with having a rest day at a refuge, is that you usually have to wake up early, whereas in an accommodation in a town or village, you can normally sleep as long as you want. Thankfully, I am accompanied by good company in Martina, Johanna and Katherine. In addition, Lutz has joined us, also resting a day. Florian and his friend had to leave, however. That the Rifugio Tissi is a cosy hut in a wonderful location, I am also thankful for.

Outside in the morning, it begins to snow.

Playing 6 Nimmt at the cabin, Lutz, Katherine, Martina and Johanna.

However, little could prepare us for how perfectly timed our decision to take a zero day was. Outside, it begins to snow. I can honestly say that I did not expect that. Slowly, the green world outside turns white. Clouds are hanging low, cutting everything in half.

The otherwise green scenery begins to take on a white color, as the snow settles on the ground.

Snow scene outside Rifugio Tissi, the Civetta barely visible.

While the world outside fills the air with snow, we sit inside the warm cabin and relaxes. A lot of time is gone playing a card game that is new to me called 6 Nimmt, which is fun. Otherwise talking and enjoying the fact that we are not out and walking today. Although, I do believe we would manage that too just fine. It is as cosy as a rest day can possible be.

The summit of Cima di Col Rean.

View along the crest of the summit of Cima di Col Rean.

Other hikers arrives, some of them really early too, having only walked from the Rifugio Coldai before giving up. They come inside wet and thankful to escape the cold and slushy surface to walk in. The only problem we have, is that some of them are making a lot of fuss around the big oven in the middle of the cabin. There are those that forgets that they are not the only ones at a place. Most of them are however adding to the good atmosphere inside. The cabin eventually became very busy.

The Civetta in snow.

Another wonderful view of the Civetta with snow on its sides.

During the day, I make two excursions to the top of Cima di Col Rean with its summit cross, at 2281m. At the first excursion, there is no visibility, only a brief view straight down from the cliff at the top. Otherwise, the backdrop disappears into nothingness. Walking up to the top covered in snow, though, is great. Behind is the Civetta barely visible. This leads me to continue talking about what we will miss out here in weather like this. The west wall of the Civetta is famous for providing a gorgeous red colour when the sun is setting, but there is little hope of seeing that now.

Looking towards the path where we came from yesterday with the Civetta above.

Snow scene outside Rifugio Tissi, a light is visible behind the heart.

Occasionally, we have to go outside on the narrow terrace to enjoy the views underneath the shelter of the awning. Seeing the Civetta clad in a thin layer of snow behind the veil of the clouds is straight out beautiful. I know I could be experiencing snow on this hike, but I had not really believed it would happen.

Stunning view from Cima di Col Rean, with Alleghe below. Two days ago I walked down the river in the middle in pouring rain.

Wonderful mountain scenery, towards Setsas (the pinnacles to the left at the back) and Piz dles Cunturines (all at the back).

The second excursion to the summit of Cima di Col Rean is a different matter. Later in the day and now the clouds has lifted (but not gone) and the views from the summit is nothing but stunning. Alleghe is visible below with the ravaged valley behind, reaching towards the mountains in the background. The only peak I can name is Peitlerköfel, though, far behind at the back. Although other peaks are rising out of the clouds. Marmolada, Puéz Geizler and Sella are all engulfed by clouds. The view is a mixture of light, drifting dramatic clouds, green hillsides and majestic peaks. It has been funny to see the different stages of the Civetta today, from the no see at the start, to the veiled view, next the clouds ascending and in the end lying like a crown at the top.

The summit cross at Cima di Col Rean.

Looking towards the path where we will be going tomorrow.

Having a zero day also gives you time to think about what you have experienced so far on a hike. The beginning in München now seem so long ago. It has been a ride, and a varied one. From the flat landscape and the grey and slightly depressing weather of the first days, to the joy of arriving above the clouds at the Benediktenwand, then the mighty and spectacular scenery of the Alps, and finally the gracefulness of the Dolomites. To me, I find that the Alps are the masculine mountains, they are the brute, strong and mighty. The Dolomites, however, are the feminine, they are the graceful, beautiful and delicate.

View towards Marmolada engulfed in clouds.

Rifugio Tissi.

The highlight so far has been the three days from Kreuzwiesen Alm to Rifugio Viel dal Pan, those three days were absolutely stunning and in wonderful weather. However, the climb of Olperer, the Benediktenwand above the sea of clouds, the afternoon and evening at the Karwendelhaus during a thunderstorm, the long ridgewalk across the seven Tuxer Alps are examples of the many highlights through the Alps. Not to forget all the people that I have met. On the downside is the feeling of lack of motivation at the beginning of the third day, when I felt stuck in a dreary weather. Worst of all was however the walk down from Lago di Fedaia to Alleghe. And I think I can add this day to the list of highlights, having a cosy rest day while it is snowing outside.

Snow scene outside Rifugio Tissi, Civetta revealed below the clouds.

Good company at Rifugio Tissi, Lutz, Johanna, Katherine, Martina and me.

Of course, when it stopped snowing and the clouds lifted a little, the snow on the ground began to melt. Although, it had not disappeared when we went to bed. We all nurtured a little hope that we would experience the setting sun and a red Civetta, but there was never any real hope in that. I think the snow more than made up for it, though. An almost perfect zero day. And I guess that we would have missed out most of the beautiful snowy scenery had we moved on, I think it would be more like rain lower down.

Civetta in the evening.

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