Distance: 23.3km (504.6km), time spent: 9:05.
Weather: Nice and hot.
The day has arrived, this is the day I say farewell to the mountains and begin the final and flat walk towards Venezia. Only the descent from Col Visentin is left. It is not with dread that I look forward to the next days. On the contrary, I see the upcoming days as a fine way to come down after all the exciting days up in the Alps and Dolomites. Tune in to a walk more similar to a Camino than a mountain trek, slow down and breathe out. It will definitely be a change of scenery.
Sunrise at Col Visentin.
We wake up Florian, who decided to sleep outside in his sleeping bag, then get stuck by the sunrise before breakfast. Morning mist lies dormant in the valleys below the ridge, with a new bout of pastel sunlight. When we leave, the mist has creeped up to the refuge, light and gentle clouds dancing around the top. The stay at the hut has been pleasant.
Dolomites in the morning, Belluno below.
Lutz and Florian leaving Rifugio Col Visentin through the mist.
Leaving the refuge inside all the communication equipment, Der Traumpfad goes down on a switchback road. All the clouds have gathered around the summit of Col Visentin, the rest is clear. The flat plains are slowly vanishing in the haze, but on the north side of the ridge, the Dolomites are still visible, saying their final goodbye. The path is following the dirt track all the way down to the Forcella Zoppei pass (1417m), but when I see a path crossing over the small grassy knolls between the contouring track, I choose to take these paths instead. Which leaves me behind the others, but rewards me with better views of this undulating ridgeline and the surrounding areas (the dirt track goes all on the south side of the knolls, losing the view of the Dolomites, but I get to still see them).
Undulating ridgewalk after Col Visentin.
From Forcella Zoppei the trail leaves the dirt track and climbs up on the ridge on a path, which it will follow all the way to the Rifugio Pian de le Femene. If wanted, it is possible to follow the dirt track around instead, but it will be a longer walk then. A stout cairn is passed by next to the trail, as well as these huge flat boards that I believe is to reflect signals from communication equipment (but looks like tall billboards). As we progress on the grassy ridgeline, the hike is beginning to resemble the Pennine Way, only that it is drier and no bogs. The contours are gentle and soft, far from the rugged terrain of the Alps and Dolomites, like the trail wants us to ease into the flat landscape later on.
Path passing by a cairn with a view of Col Visentin shrouded in clouds.
A walk over gentle hills and meadows, resembling the landscape of The Pennine Way in a way.
We pass by abandoned farms in ruins, several farms still in use, one of them quite big too. All the time while the flatlands are hailing us from below, as well as the buildings of the quite large Vittorio Veneto. We notice that large patches of the woods clinging to the side of the ridge contains dead trees. I savour the last meters, the last minutes and the last views I have in the mountains. I have always had a penchant for rolling green hills and mountains.
Abandoned old farm and the Venetian Plains.
I have been rolling over the meadows and hills with pleasure, but it comes to an end as we arrive at Rifugio Pian de le Femene, the last refuge on the trail. There may be places later on where we can get food at, or some shops, but I feel it is kind of symbolic to have lunch at the last refuge before we head down. Hence I am sitting out on the terrace with a warm portion of pasta in front of me. Next to the refuge there is a small museum dedicated to the World War II, which appear to be closed when we are here.
Descending on the ridge with the last refuge in sight.
Starting the descent, we notice a handwritten notice on the signpost telling us that the path down is difficult, that trees has fallen down over the path, take the road it says. Johanna and I decide to take our chances and disregards the notice. We do encounter some fallen trees, but nothing compared to what we have experienced before. Although, the detour around them might be more difficult if it is raining. Florian and Lutz left Rifugio Pian de le Femene before us, now we find them sitting in the middle of the path having their lunch.
A stone building about to be lost in vegetation, on the way down to Revine.
The final walk down from the mountains goes through trees. It goes on a soft, but uneven surface that can be muddy and treacherous when wet. Sometimes using a riverbed as a path, which was initially hard to find. Close attention is necessary at times to locate where the trail is going. We walk past some religious icons and abandoned buildings surrounded by green. Views out of the woods are rare, but it is a pleasant walk. Johanna and I emerge out below the Santuario di San Francesco da Paola just above Revine. The walkway up to the church is a zigzagging paved path lined with altars.
Path going down to Revine.
Santuario di San Francesco da Paola in Revine.
We have now for good or worse definitely left the mountains for good. Revine sits at the food of the ridge we have come down from and is very quiet when we walk through it. The lush forest walls have changed to old and worn buildings, but charming. Nothing is open, we aim for a place for a coffee, but finds nothing. Another change is the temperature, it has become warmer.
Walking through the streets of Revine.
The charming and small village of Nagorola.
From Revine we now head into a scenery that might be more in tune with the Italian pilgrim routes than with the mountain pilgrimage we have been on, which does not necessarily mean it will be a bad walk. It will still be hilly for a while, before it all turns so very flat. Past some old stone laundries, the trail goes on path through a forest ascending slightly up to the charming small village of Nagorola. Away in the background we can discern the communications equipment at the top of Col Visentin.
Autumnal track.
The walk quickly settled into what I expected it to be. From the few, but dusty and timeless streets of Nagorola we walk a short stretch on tarmac before the trail makes a short climb onto a wooden path. This is an easy walk, but could be muddy if it is raining. Autumn leaves lies on the floor of the path, above us is the branches of the trees creating a green roof.
Looking down at Tarzo.
A yellow flower.
Tarzo is where this stage normally ends for the hikers on Der Traumpfad, but for us the path is longer. As a part of the deal when Florian rented his via ferrata gear at Passo Duran, now four days ago, he also had to agree to spend a night at the Agriturismo Le Noci in Costarut when delivering back the equipment. We arranged so that we all will stay there. In Tarzo however, I have to have my cup of coffee. The place is bigger than expected, the church has some nice glass paintings.
Italian culture landscape after Tarzo.
The scenery now is a distinctly Italian culture landscape, maybe closer to Tuscany in appearance to a lesser extent. Rolling hills with vineyards and farms perched on top of them, scattered hamlets and smaller farms around. Near a small chapel located on top of a tiny hill, the trail leaves the road and joins a path through the forest. The waymarkings showing where to turn off here is a little bit obscure. Clouds have begun to roll in, but they only manage to create a gentle light and atmosphere. After walking for a time on the pleasant forest path, we arrive at the junction where we need to leave Der Traumpfad to get to our accommodation.
Farms, vineyards and hamlets.
A lovely forest path after Tarzo.
There is a little bit of walking on road to get to Agriturismo Le Noci, but arriving at the place we find it well worth it. It is a lovely and serene place, overlooking rolling cultural farmland and woods. Turns out that we all share a huge room. Florian and Lutz arrives a good deal later than us, almost at the time we begin to wonder if something has happened. We get to sit outside when having dinner, which is delicious, slowly grilled meat that melts on the tongue.
At Agriturismo Le Noci.
A good day, starting with a wonderful undulating ridgewalk and ending with a pleasant walk through a culture landscape. That Florian had to deliver back his via ferrata equipment at Agriturismo Le Noci was probably worth the rent by itself. Tomorrow is the first full day on the flat days before Venezia awaiting.
In the garden of Agriturismo Le Noci.
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