Distance: 38.4km (615.2km).
Memories of strange dreams at night and then I wake up a lot earlier than I want, which may mean that I have slept well. At least it feels that way, and it feels good to be able to close my eyes again and sleep a little further.
A nice and quaint light over Stamnan in the morning, here from the wrong way on the pilgrim path.
The destination I am going towards today is basically unclear and begins with a walk on the road through Stamnan before I make the wrong detour from the road and have to return. I have to blame myself for this wrong turn (although I was a little distracted by a waymark hanging on a mailbox rack next to it), but not the next wrong turn that I encounter. Some distance up the hill, after correctly leaving the main road, I come out on a field and there is not a single waymark to see. Yet with a clear and distinct tractor road leaving the field, obviously where the pilgrim path continues.
Up on the hillsides between Stamnan and Voll, here on the path after Våttåsletta.
Except that it is wrong.
A nice wooden shelter (gapahuk) at Hovengløkkja. I was standing and took the picture from here and suddenly a pilgrim appeared from the shelter, another German on his way to Nidaros.
However, the alarm bells have gone off and further back down again I find the right way. As well as the waymark-pole that will show where to take off from the forest road. It is well hidden behind a bush. It looks like someone has uprooted it and thrown it there.
Pørkhuset. I do not know what has been here, but the name gives certain associations (it sort of translates to the Pork House).
The pilgrim path then continues from here in the realm of the forest up on the hillside, until it goes down towards Voll. There are three things that stand out on my way there.
View over Voll from Osphaugen.
First, at a nicely landscaped wooden shelter with a decent view from, I meet another (and as usual rare) pilgrim. A taciturn walker from Germany (again), who has spent the night in the shelter and carries the packaging of the dinner from yesterday (canned spaghetti as far as I can see) dangling from the back of his backpack in a bag.
Gammelbua in Voll, this is a museum shop where you can also get pilgrim info about the last part of the journey to Nidaros, as well as arranging accommodation if needed.
Then the nice view from Osphaugen over Voll and Rennebu, with Rennebu church visible.
From the interior of Rennebu church.
Finally, the muddy forest road, harrowed by forest machines, which you end up walking on before starting the descent towards Voll. Where your feet get heavier with each step you take.
Cat on a barn bridge. 'Who is this pilgrim passing by my farm, I wonder?'
In Voll there are some nice white painted old houses, one of them a museum shop, Gammelbua which also provides information and accommodation for pilgrims if needed. The old store was in operation for about 100 years. The doors are not open now.
Dead ice pit, a depression in the loose material. Many of these can be dry at the bottom, but the most common is that they have a pond, water or bog at the bottom.
In the grocery store next door, I ask on a whim if there is anyone who can open the church (one of the reasons is the possibility of being able to get a stamp in my pilgrim passport). The lady at the cashier calls someone and about a quarter of an hour later I meet a cheerful lady who opens the church and shows me around. I get coffee too.
Peace and quiet on the one hand, anger on the other?? Barbed wire is an abomination, and here you go a little too close, you have to be careful not to touch it with your sack or clothes.
Voll and Rennebu church are in a way Gudbrandsdalsleden's answer to Sarria (Camino Frances) and Tui (Camino Portugues). From here it is 100km to Nidaros Cathedral, the shortest distance one must walk to get Olavsbrevet (the certificate you get for finishing the pilgrimage, same as the Compostela in Santiago).
Reberg, the old refectory.
Then it is out being a vagabond along the country road again. The church servant had talked about and pointed out the old rectory, Reberg, which is clearly visible and the Gudbrandsdalsleden undeniably goes in its direction. First a section on the road, then it takes into a farm road before it finally pulls into the woods after passing a dead ice pit. This is a pothole that has been formed by buryied ice remnants and later melting, after the ice sheet melted down at the end of the last ice age.
And then the trail goes a long way on gravel or asphalt, and passes trees and farms on its way, like here.
In the woods, on the other hand, I should have focused on the sight of the green cover that the leaves give the trees, but once again there is another sight that catches my eye. Repeatedly. The abominable and hostile barbed wire. The otherwise peaceful silence is interrupted by imaginary sounds from the First World War.
Entrance door to Jorlia farm.
After Reberg (the rectory), there are many and long steps on a forest road, but the thoughts are allowed to relax, and the kilometres are covered in peace. I pass by Ry pilgrim hostel, which can look back to the 17th century as an estate under the bishop of Nidaros, with its now closed cafe in what almost resembles a greenhouse.
Jorlia farm.
I step into a yard and then time stands still for a while. Jordlia is a thousand-year-old large farm where the earth has never been driven intensively mechanically. There were even over 50 houses here, but they unfortunately disappeared in a fire in the 18th century. The trail runs right through the yard. It seems abandoned here, but it is not.
On a clear and defined path after Jorlia.
I continue on the path and then walks down to Orkla and Orkdal county. At a farm, someone has set up a table with benches, Stene pilegrimsrest. A fridge is next to it, here they sell ice cream, drinks, and sweets on a trust basis. It is so wonderful. Unfortunately, my wallet is slightly dusty, but I do scramble together something to support them, with some candy in return.
Stene pilegrimsrast, we like such places, here you can buy ice cream, sweets and soft drinks. Unfortunately, there was little other than dust to be found in my wallet.
Segard Hoel is also one of the places I had been recommended, but I am here too soon. In addition, I go a little wrong thanks to the waymark-pole that I see pointing in the direction of the hostel (but not the trail). The hike further is pleasant, mostly on gravel roads.
Autumn has definitely announced its arrival, autumn colors in the trees.
After a nice walk through a forest, I come to Uleberget. This is an old farm that welcomes the pilgrims to camp and is peacefully located, but at this point I have landed where I want to go.
Moss sprout, rows of spruce and a defined path, on the way to Uleberget.
In Meldal I have to refill water and supplies. I find the water at the church, which is fairly new, from 1988. Where I find the supplies speaks for itself. With the exception of a pleasant conversation with someone who works at the village museum here, I do not spend much time here.
Uleberget, an old homestead, here it was settlement until the 1970s.
Meldal village museum, on the other hand, I take some time to look at, although I see that time also passes for me. Here you can also spend the night in Eldhuset (old smaller farm building that could be used as a kitchen, or even as a laundry) during normal times. 22 antiquarian buildings stand as memorials to older times here. I like the opportunity I have had along the way to visit the various village museums, although it is a common feature that I am always there after closing time.
The pilgrim route where it goes through Meldal village museum.
With a good view of the old buildings in Meldal village museum.
From Meldal it is still a short distance to walk to my now planned destination for the night, Olskastet. First up the road, then into the woods on a pleasant path. Eventually I am led onto a path that goes quite close to a road, and my feet begin to remind me that it is time to arrive.
I leave Meldal, this man returns there, after a pleasant conversation.
Olskastet is a small unattended cabin built as an open house (called sælehus). And as in the old days, it is open for walkers to use, it is free to stay overnight here, but there is not much more it offers. There is a roof over your head. You must bring with you what you are going to lie on, as well as food and drink. I had originally planned to camp next door, but when I arrive here, I feel like I want to spend the night inside.
The backpack got a little heavier, but arriving at Olskastet it felt like a good reward after the long walk of today.
With the candles lit, I have a pleasant evening, both outside and inside the house, but it eventually becomes quite chilly in the evening. And there is not much insulation to be found in Olskastet, nor is there any possibility of lighting a stove or fireplace inside the hut. I actually think my tent had insulated more, but what do you have sleeping bags for.
Olskastet. This is an open house that is accessible to walkers and pilgrims, inside there are sparse brisks along three of the walls. Food and drink, as well as a sleeping bag and mat, you have to bring with you yourself.
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