Distance: 36.6km (451.1km).
Today I feel a little excitement in my body. I do not know how far I will end up walking, but I know that I will begin the journey over Dovrefjell when I set out for the day.
Up from Dovreskogen, retrospective.
Yesterday my idea was actually to wild camp but ended up not doing it due to uncertainty about finding a place to camp (as well as the prospect of a lot of rain). So, I was a little curious if I would come across a place when I left Vollheim, but as soon as I had left, I completely forgot to look.
Ryddøla farm.
A good deal of the route between Dovreskogen and Dovre goes on a road, but you also get time to walk on pleasant paths, like here.
The road is calling in the beginning, half of the route to Dovre (we are talking here about the village, not the mountains) will be on hard ground, but the rest of the route will be on the surface we enjoy best. The path is different on this side of Dovreskogen, much more pleasant than the one I went on on the other side.
Light in the rain clouds over the valley.
The asphalt is hard, but the sky is so dramatic that it distracts me in a positive way. Rain and light in a beautiful union that comes undulating down from the mountain on the other side and drifts across the valley. On the horizon ahead, there is still a small hope of escaping the rain as I move further up into the valley.
The trail passes a historical building park. Not exactly a folk museum, but a small collection of old buildings. This is an outdoor classroom where students learn traditional ways to build houses from experienced craftsmen. At the same time, the place functions as a park.
Old farm buildings.
Sleepy in the centre of Dovre, not unexpected. The shop in Dovre is the last one located by the trail before you get to Oppdal, so it is worth thinking a little carefully before you leave here. My backpack will probably have to settle for a small weight gain.
On the way to Dovre, quaint light.
Dovre train station, opened in 1913, 485 meters above sea level.
Starting to become something of a regularity here now, but it is the confirmations that make me get access to the churches, so also with the slate-clad Dovre church from 1736. The timber church is, however, a little more pleasant on the inside.
Dovre church, a timber church with a layer of slate on the outside.
From the inside of Dovre church.
There is a steady ascent, although not as significant as later, from Dovre and upwards, so there may be some who expect the hike over the mountain to start from there. For me, it is probably still Budsjord. This is an older and protected farm which during the season also functions as a pilgrim hostel, also a reoccurrence on the recommendations I received from acquaintances. Now it is closed, but I sneak in for a little peek into the yard.
St. Olavs source at Dovre.
From Budsjord, it is undeniably Dovrefjell that awaits me. And the pilgrim path will be up there until it comes down to Oppdal through Vinstradalen in a few days. In the old days, this was probably the most feared section of the route, but in recent times the facilities and security for the pilgrims are probably much greater. The pilgrim path over the mountain is also marked with a blue royal crown.
Budsjord.
For the adventurous pilgrim, there is also another route from just after Budsjord. Gautstigen is considered to be one of the oldest ways over Dovre, but we are here talking about a more demanding route that is less maintained and waymarked than the official route. You will then walk 40 km to Hjerkinn without encountering anything other than yourself and the mountains. This route is tempting, but this year I am on the official route's errand.
Utsikt tilbake fra starten på fjellovergangen over Dovrefjell.
The climb up offers a rare sight. It is almost like I do not believe what I see. Here I meet the first other pilgrim since I left Oslo almost two weeks ago. Marina is from Russia but lives in Germany (which explains why she could enter the country).
Cascades and small waterfalls in the Rådååe river.
Rain comes in like waves above us as we move up on the old royal way. The initial short irritation is quickly replaced with a satisfied joy. Fresh mountain air meets me. The view is full of contrasts where the layers of clouds, rain, sunlight, and horizon mix.
Rain clouds move over the horizon while I am on my way to Allmannsrøysa.
Allmannsrøysa is a large cairn. Like Cruz de Fero on the Camino Frances, the pilgrims (or other walkers) have thrown a stone at the pile, which they may have carried with them all the way from Oslo. Possibly there was a wooden cross here, so one could perhaps call the place Cruz de Madera.
Allmannsrøysa.
In the background of Allmannsrøysa, rain clouds dance across the sky, it is a beautiful sight. I would not have replaced this with a clear and blue sky if I could. The sun begins to peek out again and on the horizon Snøhetta appears. It is about a month and a day after I was at the summit after completing the Saga trail. Now there is snow on top of it. The moment indicates that this must be the scene of today's lunch.
The Snøhetta massif.
After a great walk down from the cairn, over heather, bog, and past mountain birch in a nice light, I arrive at Fokstugu. There is pilgrimage history here from a long time ago, in 1120 an open kind of a public house called sælehus was built here to keep the pilgrims safe on their journey over the mountains. Due to the pandemic, there is no accommodation here this year.
Pilgrim path waymark over Dovrefjell.
The route towards Fokstugu with waymarks for both the pilgrim path and the old royal road.
This is also as far as Marina goes today, she has a more leisurely plan for her pilgrimage and goes significantly shorter days than me, so it is unlikely that we will meet again. It has been very nice to meet another pilgrim. She will be picked up here by the hostess at the place where she will spend the night.
Fokstugu.
It again goes uphill, towards Veslhøe. In front of me are two figures, moving in the same direction as I am. Almost two weeks without meeting any other pilgrims and then I suddenly meet three today, it is almost a bit shocking. Reidun and Aud, on the other hand, do not walk the Gudbrandsdalsleden, but complete the last two days of the Valldalsleden, after walking the first days on that trail on a previous group trip. We are heading towards the same place.
Waymarker post shows the path between Fokstugu towards Furuhauglie.
The hike over to Furuhauglie could well have been even longer. High up I look down towards Fokstugu, but it is the marvellous light that shines through a large opening in the dark clouds that hypnotizes me. I feel enchanted when I walk over the heather with a bluish sky behind Snøhetta and solitary mountain birch along the pilgrim path. And intervals of rain that wash over the landscape.
Enchanting light over Fokstugu.
I stay dry until I go down towards Furuhaugli Turisthytter, when one of the waves of rain hits me. In a short time, I go from dry to wet, and hope it is a vacant cabin for me. Standing dripping in the entrance area, I am told that there has been a cancellation and they have one cabin available, otherwise they were fully booked.
Two solitary mountain birches, heather, bluish sky, snow-capped mountains (Snøhetta massif). Among the best Norwegian mountains can offer.
Pure luxury of course, but I had been warned that there would be strong wind during the night, so I let the tent lie in my backpack and rather enjoy myself in a fairly large cabin for myself. It does not get worse that the dinner they serve is really delicious. I eat together with Reidun and Aud, which makes my decision to stay here extra good. After so many days where I have eaten alone, it is very nice to have some company again.
Descent towards Furuhaugli Turisthytter.
Then the mountain passing has begun. A good start to the hike before I came to Budsjord and looked up towards Dovrefjell, but still went with a slight feeling of being there without quite being there. When the trees shrank down to the heather and the open landscapes stood at my feet, I felt the peculiar calm that I get when I am in the mountains. It was a magical light today and to be honest, hiking in the mountains in such conditions is more spectacular than under a clear and blue sky.
The dinner at Furuhaugli Turisthytter was absolutely delicious.
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