Distance: 33.0km (414.5km).
I eventually slept well in my uneven little tent on the slope, although strangely. I wake up to a new day with clear skies, but the cross outside welcomes me to a chill morning. In a little while, however, the coffee and oatmeal porridge are ready.
The wooden cross at Sjåheim.
Today offers another uncertain terminus, a good step closer to Dovrefjell (if you have read my posts correctly, you are aware that it is this section of the pilgrim path I am most looking forward to) and Kristin Lavransdatter reportedly.
Ascending path from Sjåheim.
Otta is the first destination of the day, the second smallest city in Norway. At first, the pilgrim path ascends further up on a path in the same nice surroundings as it ended yesterday. Nere Skarvåtåbakkjin comes first and then Øvre Skarvåtåbakkjin follows afterwards. A great start to the day, which passes quickly.
Approaching Otta next to Lågen.
An old looking farm behind autumnal vegetation.
Towards Otta the route goes on asphalt, but it is not a bad walk with Lågen slowly flowing past next to it. I remember Otta best from the one time I have stayed here before. When the train had to be evacuated at Vinstra, due to a guy who had started a fire in a toilet, and I did not catch the bus I was to take further. I will not say much more about that hike in Jotunheimen now, but it had its experiences. Or maybe I should do it anyway, these are amusing memories afterwards (not as amusing at the time).
Sel church.
Anyway, I ended up having to go hiking in the mountains on a very low budget (without a tent, so at mountain cabins), as a taxi company in Oslo had found it too good to deduct over half a year of bills collected from the account (this after I had left home). I had to cancel the hike up to Galdhøpiggen. Then someone took my hiking boots at Memurubu and thus the hike over Besseggen also had to be cancelled. I had to go home with no shoes on my feet. It is a special feeling to walk through the bus station in Oslo in only the socks, but otherwise in full mountain clothes. I later got my shoes back, and no more will be said on the matter.
The pilgrim path in the direction of Nord-Sel.
Back to the pilgrim path to Nidaros. After a break with coffee and cake in Otta, my way carries me on through Sel. And here the experience is not so much to talk about. I find the walk through the valley here, which has now widened, unexciting and I gradually lose interest. Just pulling the hiking blinds around my eyes and walk. The route to Sel church was changed a bit, but I do not think there was a big difference when it came to the experience. I still walked to the church.
Gudbrandsdalslågen.
Fisherman in Lågen.
Jørundgard was built as a backdrop for the films about Kristin Lavransdatter, based on the books by Sigrid Undset. Now it is completely quiet here when I arrive, almost like an abandoned farm and the place assumes exactly the shape it was originally, a backdrop. It is possible for pilgrims to spend the night here, but not this year. A stave church and gallows can also be found here. Kristin Lavransdatter herself stands outside Nord-Sel church.
Jørungaard, the backdrop for the movies about Kristin Lavransdatter.
Gallows and stave church in Jørundgaard.
After shopping, I have lunch at the table and the benches outside the store, just enough shelter from the drizzle at the end of the table. In essence, getting Olavsbrevet (the certificate that you have walked the pilgrim path, kind of the same as the Compostela you get after going to Santiago de Compostela in Spain) is not the most important thing for me. If I want to get it, I have to find a way to get a stamp for this day pretty soon, as I am running very low on options. So, I must be creative today, but a stamp is still a stamp. At the gas station I get a business stamp, along with a cup of coffee before I make my way through the forests up to Dovreskogen.
Nord-Sel church and Kristin Lavransdatter.
Romundgaard, the proper inspiration for Jørundgaard?
There is something called creative bookkeeping, and then there is something called creative routing. The trail crosses the railway line, and no one likes to be run over by a train, not even adventurous pilgrims. Therefore, the trail takes a series of twists and turns on a path to get around and over the railway line. It is an interesting trip, and they have done their part to make it easier, with various stairs in various shapes, forms, and conditions along the way. This is a part of the route that probably requires frequent maintenance, however.
Laurgard.
The Nord-Sel witch?
On safe ground with the train thundering past below me, I come up to Ringen. Here there has been a farm that was probably from the middle of the 19th century. Now the most prominent landmark here is a cross with a stone plaque that says ‘La oss vandre i Herrens lys!’ ('Let us walk in the light of the Lord!'). The altar that also stands here is not in as good condition.
On the curious path over the railway line between Nord-Sel and Dovreskogen.
I had some hopes for the hike through the woods to Dovreskogen, but even if there is forest and glimpses of the mountains around between the trees, it never becomes more than a pleasant walk. The path up from the cross on Ringen was nice, but afterwards a gravel road takes over. The mountains are still good reminders that the mountain is at the doorstep.
Walking above a train passing by at a high speed.
The pilgrim path where it passes by below Ringen.
The weather above me has mostly been grey since I left Sel church, with small threats of rain, just as the weather forecast has threatened with. Finally, I decide to rent a camping cabin at Vollheim Camping.
The cross at Ringen.
The heavy rain, on the other hand, never materializes, even if there are a few drops. For me, it now has little to say, I relax inside the cabin. Choose to save the dinner I bought for later and instead go for the distinctive 'cottage favorite' spetti on box.
In Dovreskogen.
Despite some nice moments, this was not the most exciting day on the pilgrimage to Trondheim.
Spetti (spaghetti on tinned can) in the cabin at Vollheim Camping.
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