Distance: 29.7km (342.4km).
Today it was decided in advance where I would go to. Before I began my pilgrimage from Sagene, I had asked some of my friends and acquaintances who had walked the pilgrimage route before me about which of the accommodations they recommended. One of the names that resonated with everyone was Sygard Grytting. From Fåvang it is fortunately for me not a too short of a distance to walk.
Nordrum farm in the morning, overcast and prospects of rain over Gudbrandsdalen.
With the large kitchen in the pilgrim loft at Nordrum farm, I can dish up quite the feast of a breakfast. The icing on the cake are the two eggs I got from the hosts.
The detour down Fåvang takes you on a path under a pipe.
It was clear outside early in the morning, but when I got up it was unmistakable rain clouds that had dressed up the sky. When I begin my walk, it is with the added backdrop of small drops of rain.
Tromsa seen from below.
Kongsvegen on a nice surface through the forest after Fåvang.
What is it about this area, old bridges and the pilgrim path? Rolla bridge was no longer possible to use, and the same sight meets me at Tromsa bridge. Blocked off and the pilgrims have to take the trip down to the centre of Fåvang and then go up again on the other side. If you look at it a little differently, it is not certain that it is such a bad thing. It is quite nice to look up at the old log bridge 28 meters above. Next to me, I can hear the rush from the river and the waterfall.
Falkesteinen at Høgkleiva with a good view over the valley.
From Fåvang, the trail then follows an older road, Kongsvegen (waymarked with a crown), but it must be noted that this is probably the same road that we have followed before, Tjodvegen. Traces of travelling all the way back to early Viking times have been found here. After all, in the old times this was a road that was to go through the villages from one end to the other or that should go from mountain to shore.
At the top of Høgkleiva you will find an old hill fort and this view.
Several parts of Tankeplassen on Høgkleiva, Klokkeporten in the foreground, Hovudet can be seen behind in the woods.
On Kongsvegen, the pilgrims walk on a road that alternates between being of gravel and grass. It is a pleasant walk that takes you through forests, past small places and overlooking the valley. Along the way, the clouds appear satisfied with the rain they have provided.
Hovudet, notice the maze on the neck.
Tromsa bridge was perhaps the first of a series of experiences to define this day on the pilgrimage. I come to Høgkleiva where you will find the next experience. It is another place of thought (the Tankeplassen art project), this time a three-part one that is meant to show different aspects of the journey of a pilgrim. At a nice vantage point, Falkesteinen scouts out over the landscape, falco peregrinus, in other words the peregrine falcon. Below you will find Klokkeporten (the Bell Gate), connected to the legend of Søsterkirkene (the Sister Bells). Next to the gate is Hovudet (the Head), connected to the nearby place where people were executed in old times. The artworks are made by Ånond Versto.
View in the direction of Ringebu, the stave church is visible behind the trees.
Ringebu stave church.
It is not just art and places of thought that can be found here. A nice shelter (gapahuk) is set up here and if you climb further up to the top of Høgkleiva (recommended) you come to an ancient hill fort which also houses a great view of the valley in a northern direction. Below I can see the reddish walls of Ringebu stave church. On the way further you pass Retterstadbakken (the place of execution) and get a good view the last kilometres until the stave church is towering over you.
Selfie with art / me and art, at Prestegården of Ringebu stave church.
View back from Panoramavegen, Høgkleiva can be seen sticking out in the background.
Ringebu stave church dates from the 1220s and is one of the largest remaining stave churches in Norway. It has a characteristic red church tower that came into the world in the 1630s. Unfortunately, my visiting hours are too late in the year and the church is not open (by showing your pilgrim passport, you get a free entry). I like the church, but it also feels somewhat more monumental than the other stave churches I have visited.
Then another art project appeared, Vegskille, here with Dragen. Ringebu.
Quiet and peaceful streets in Ringebu.
Right next door is Prestegården (the Rectory), here there is an art exhibition and café. In line with all the other experiences today, why not throw in some culture as well. I like the exhibition, a nice mix of old and new.
Trolls, witches and pilgrim marks. Mailbox on the way to Frya.
A few kilometres later, after walking on Panoramavegen, you come to Ringebu. I have always only seen this town from the train windows, but on arriving I get a slightly different look at the place. It looks relatively pleasant here.
The bridge over the narrow Frya gorge at Bersveinhølen.
It has been an eventful day so far and the day is not over yet. A more traditional walk through a cultural landscape is replaced by another highlight. The pilgrim path enters the forest and soon you hear the roar of the Fryajuvet gorge, which you cross over on a small bridge at Bersveinhølen. Narrow and with the river Frya cascading below. What better place for lunch today than out by a nice ledge right by the bridge. Raindrops announce their arrival as I get ready to move on.
Fryajuvet seen from another point of view a little further up.
At Dale-Gudbrands farm you will find the Dale-Gudbrands pilgrim centre, well located between four large burial mounds from the Iron Age and the scene of the meeting between Olav den Hellige and Dale-Gudbrand. As with Granavollen, the pilgrim centre is closed, but here I do not find any stamp outside. When the centre is open, you can also spend the night here, or at the probably a little statelier hotel right next door.
On a pleasant walk through the forest.
If you cannot hang up a waymark, you can use what you find.
From the farm of one of the most powerful men who have lived in the Gudbrandsdalen valley, it is a 5.5km walk to Sygard Grytting. In Hundorp I have to buy dinner, as the hosts at Sygard Grytting have gone to the mountains to start collecting the grazing animals. Here is also Gudbrandsdalsdomen, actually Sør-Fron church, an octagonal stone church from the end of the 18th century. And a nice eye-catcher in the foreground where I look out over Gudbrandsdalen. There are some big and nice farms here.
Lia on the other side of Lågen, on the way to Dale-Gudbrands farm.
Dale-Gudbrands farm, with the pilgrim centre to the left.
After such an eventful day, it feels almost too much to come to such a wonderful place as Sygard Grytting. Sort of good then that there was a little bit cumbersome after Rudi farm, in order to make up for all the extravagance. Sygard Grytting has hosted pilgrims for many years back in time. When you walk through the yard of the farm, which has actually been moved three times, you can see the history of the buildings. The medieval loft is the largest in Norway and dates from the 14th century.
Through Hundorp.
Gudbrandsdalsdomen (Sør-Fron church).
On the other hand, I will not sleep in the pilgrim loft, where you can sleep almost authentically like old pilgrims in sheepskin traps, but in Fantstugu. The hosts felt that since I was the only guest and had to arrange dinner myself, it was the best place. I am not complaining, it is a nice little hut that has everything I need. Upon arrival, I became clear that the hosts had to postpone the shepherding. Nor do I complain about that. I feel well received and the place is wonderful to say the least.
Inside the medieval loft of Sygard Grytting, if you wish, you can sleep in the sheepskins like an 'authentic' pilgrim of the old days.
Sygard Grytting, the medieval loft.
It is a beautiful sky in the evening, almost sparkling with colours. If I have to complain about something, it may be that this stage has gotten away with too many of the highlights that are found up Gudbrandsdalen along the trail. An incredibly eventful day on the pilgrimage path.
In the evening in Fantstugu at Sygard Grytting, writing down my notes of the day.
<< Fåvang // day 9Sjåheim // day 11 >>
No comments:
Post a Comment