Distance: 22.4km (693.4km).
Many trail walkers are familiar with the feeling they get when they wake up to the last day of a long hike, the day that they should perhaps think the least about when they start walking. Now that day is at my doorstep, the destination is in sight and the prospect of arriving in Trondheim wet is good.
Woke up to a grey day outside Sundet Gård and to a promise that the last day of the pilgrimage would be a wet one.
At least I can enjoy myself a little inside in warm surroundings with a good breakfast at Sundet farm before I step out the door to a somewhat greyer world. The porch is wet, it has rained, but I am glad the rain is put on hold when I make my first steps of the day.
View from Leinstrand, it has still not started to rain, but in the horizon there is little doubt about what lies ahead.
However, there is not much hope of staying dry today. After walking up Skjefstadbakken past some farms there is an atmospheric sky above me, but the clouds in the horizon have other plans for me. Over the hill I came down from yesterday, there is a clear and distinct veil that quickly is gaining upon me.
Kongesteinen, wet from the rain.
I just reach the parking lot where the pilgrim path enters Leinstrandmarka at Kastvollen before the rain catches up with me. There it is nothing else to do but to put on my raingear and look the rain in the eye. The three kings who are buried under Kongesteinen are probably happy to have a roof over their heads. On a milestone it says that there are 14km left to Nidaros, I am glad it is not far to go for me before I get a roof over my head too (at least if the rain continues as it does now).
14 wet kilometres left to Nidaros.
In the woods I can hear two things, the sound of rain against the trees and my own feet splashing in the water on the trail. The bog landscape is autumnal and breaks up the monotony of the colour spectrum above me. And where there is no bog, the surface is just as wet.
It is a hike in a slightly depressing weather.
Sheltered underneath some trees, I meet a father and daughter who are also on the same errand as me, albeit only partly. The father has walked from Dovre and is now accompanied by his daughter on the last day to Nidarosdomen. Later they were going to catch up with me and after that I would not see them again.
Autumn colours, bogs and boardwalks over them.
The rain means that I am not always able to see how far I have reached. I just wrap myself up and walk, letting the landscape pass by in the rain. It is still clear that this would probably be a walk I would have liked if the weather had been more favourable.
A winding and wet path through the marshes.
Despite the insipid weather, it is actually a bit fun to make an ever so small comparison with the last day on the Camino Frances into Santiago de Compostela, which has never been a stage that I have found very exciting. At this point, I feel that the Gudbrandsdalsleden surpasses the more famous pilgrim path in the south. We will see if it lasts all the way out.
Pilgrim path on a rainy day.
Next to a house, someone has painted green Hulk faces on some stones, which makes my mood lighten up a bit. I pass the burial ground from the Late Iron Age on Vådan.
On the way through Bymarka.
Much can be said about a lot of things, but it is a fabulous feeling to see that the rain is stopping as I step out of the woods and can see the first glimpse of Trondheim. Not that the sun peeks out, for the sky is still full of drama, but the rain is moving east.
When the weather did not raise my mood, this painted stone did, a green Hulk.
Until now, I have not bothered to eat lunch, but at Lian Restaurant it is time. I do not eat at the restaurant (which also appear to be closed), instead I have lunch right next door, where there is also something similar to a bee hotel (Hotel Kryp-Inn), just the luxury variant.
Burial mound at Vådan.
Before the city of Trondheim completely takes control of the surroundings around the pilgrim path, the route goes through forests, but close to buildings. Now there are only small convulsions from the rain, otherwise a calm and quiet trip down. Passes Kyvatnet and then the trees are replaced with houses.
View towards Trondheim over Lianvatnet, the rain finally starting to let go.
5km to Nidarosdomen. Suddenly something to think about. All the kilometres one has walked, and now I am almost there.
Hotel Kryp-Inn at Lian, a little too little space for me
The pilgrim path takes me past some fences. On the other side of the fence, I can see several old houses, but by style and time not all belong together. I have come to Sverresborg Trøndelag Village Museum. Contrary to tradition, I arrive within the opening hours, but I have only just under half an hour until they close the doors. So, in order to the see the museum, I do a 'speed-run' of it.
Kyvatnet.
I manage to walk through old city streets, empty of people, maybe just ghosts left? Get to see the Røros farm from another side, while a red stave church appears afterwards. Climbs up on top of Sverresborg itself, where the ruins of the castle that King Sverre built. Nice view of the area with the buildings in Nidaros in the background. Fairy tale characters in wood in the forest. Old buildings, farms and homesteads. Enough to see a lot in the short time I have, but not enough to see the details. Glad I got some time here, tomorrow it is closed.
The Røros farm at Sverresborg Trøndelag Folkemuseum.
Before the trail heads down through the streets, I take a walk out to a vantage point (not Feginsbrekka, which should have the best view of the city) just beyond the pilgrim path. Dramatic patterns in the clouds over Trondheim with Nidarosdomen. Compared to Camino Frances, this beats the view from Monte de Gozo as the last view of the destination.
The Byen part (the Old Town) at Sverresborg, here with Danielsveita.
Then suddenly the sun breaks through the clouds. Will I get sun above me when I enter the square in front of Nidarosdomen? There is some hope in that when I walk past Ilen church from 1889. The spires of Nidarosdomen are getting closer and closer. At Hadrians Plass, the water is carried from the source that arose after the coffin containing the body of Olav den Hellige was taken up again, after having been temporarily buried in the riverbed of Nidelva. The sun disappears again behind the clouds.
Also from Byen, Sverresbrog, the old pharmacy.
I arrive at Nidarosdomen. In silence and tranquility. Only a few single people wander across the square, without noticing me or the beautiful facade of the cathedral (they have probably seen it countless times before). Do I feel a euphoric joy of standing here in front of its doors?
View towards Trondheim from Borgen (the Castle) at Sverresborg, the Bygda part (the Old Village) of the museum below.
In short, I feel much the same as I always do when I reach the end of a long walk. The paradox that meets me at the end of the road, happy to arrive, but did I really want to finish? Is it not in my nature to really want to take the backpack on my back again and move on? Let the adventure continue?
View with dramatic clouds over Trondheim and Nidarosdomen.
The good part, I am not done. Only with Vestleden and Gudbrandsdalsleden.
Ilen church.
Now, however, it is time to enjoy the moment. One must have a moment of contemplation at the end of the road. Sit down and look at the destination that has been so far ahead on the horizon, but which has gradually come closer and closer with the experiences it brings. I sit for a while, scouting for St. James among the statues, it feels right for me.
Olavskilden at Hadrians plass.
Then it starts raining again, but at a good time. I am ready to go to where I will spend the night. At the Nidaros Pilegrimsgård. The door to the cathedral is open and I am allowed to take a brief look inside, it feels in a way right that too. The rain increases in volume and I arrive slightly wet into the pilgrim center.
Nidarosdomen, Trondheim, the destination has been reached.
Here I get the Olavsbrevet as proof that I have walked the Gudbrandsdalsleden from Oslo, a good conversation and then I can take off my pilgrim clothes for a waiting shower.
Arrived in Nidaros and Trondheim, 0km to Nidaros.
I 'celebrate' having completed the Gudbrandsdalsleden in Bakklandet, a short distance away by crossing the Old Town Bridge and eating a pilgrim menu at Baklandet Skydsstation, the main course is bacalao. In the evening I have a beer at Antikvariatet, where a kind of 'pop-up' festival is held with local artists.
Nidarosdomen.
So, what is the next plan? Tomorrow, I will have a day of rest in Trondheim, where the time will be used to relax, but at the same time look at what the city has to offer. Nidarosdomen is the main menu on the program. Maybe it is the day to look back on the pilgrimage so far. Because then my plan is to take the train to Lillehammer and go Østleden back to Oslo and home.
Gamle Bybro (the Old Town Bridge).
The last day towards the tomb of Olav den Hellige (St. Olav) became a wet affair, the mood probably dropped a bit as a result, but it picked up considerably again when the rain stopped. And then at a particular good time. The rain was quickly forgotten when Trondheim and Nidarosdomen lay in front of me.
Baklandet Skydsstation.
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