Distance: 39.9km (671.0km).
The penultimate day, the last push before you reach the day where you will see the spires of the Nidaros Cathedral appear in front of you. And given that it was in the cards that the last night must be spent at Sundet Gård, it was also in the cards that I had a long day at my hands when I woke up in the pleasant pilgrim hostel at Gumdal farm.
A farm reflected in water after rain.
What awaits me today at least are forests and bogs, as well as rain according to a less positive weather forecast. Nevertheless, I initially escape the rain out of Gumdalen, even though the sky above and around is as consistent as the weather forecast. Colours in the grey cloud layer indicates that there has been a colourful sunrise though. From Gumdal farm, the route follows the gravel road a good distance further, up to a sign pointing to a shooting range.
View in the direction of Svorkmo at the top of Brennvinsbakken, a grey world with a hint of colour in the clouds.
The pilgrim path winding between the trees on the way to Solsjøen.
You can spend the night at Svorkmo Skytterhus (club house of a shooting range), a red building you pass by, now there are no shots to be heard. Just an atmospheric silence given by the heavy layers of clouds above. The layers of clouds, on the other hand, are not grey and sad, it is elated in a way, with some shades of colour. There is a decent view back where the trail has left the gravel road and gone over to a grassy path, before disappearing into the woods on a nice path.
Solsjøen.
I relax to the sound of water calmly hitting its banks. It is a nice walk along Solsjøen, although the only thing one senses of the sun is a few minimal glances far away. Past Korslia farm, the route rises upwards with cows looking at me suspiciously, behind me the clouds lie in layers, but where I used to be able to see the hillsides around Svorkmo clearly, they are now grey. Rain is definitely heading in my direction.
Korslia farm with Solsjøen behind.
Glamping is something that has appeared in recent years, the shelter at Snøtonsætra gives me some of the same feeling, but in a more positive sense. There is little plush and velvet here, but this is perhaps one of the more 'luxurious' I have seen.
The comfortable shelter at Snøtonsætra.
After Snøtonsætra you encounter the first bog of several, and at the same time I notice the first drop of rain. Wet above and wet below, but I am not so much affected by the rain that comes (although I honestly would have preferred to avoid it). It is not of the deterrent amount. And then I am the kind who really likes bog landscapes. Fascinating to see these solitary trees scattered around, is there such a thing as antisocial trees? Shy trees? Introverted trees?
Marsh landscape with pine trees.
Marsh landscape with antisocial trees.
Why not just take off your shoes? The surface is so good and soft that it would not have done anything, and then the shoes and socks would not become wet, but my shoes remain on my feet. Autumn colours are on their way over the marshes, in some places it lights up red from the ground. A good friend of mine called Skaun vertical bogs after she went to Trondheim earlier this year, but then again she encountered significantly more rain here than I do now.
Kvilestein (a resting stone). Looks a bit like a solid shell.
The water folds around the feet for about four kilometres, then you come to 'safe' ground, albeit only for a short period. It is raining, but never so much that it ruins my good mood. The trail passes several resting stones, some clear, others not. Now you only get wet if you sit down and take a rest on them.
More nice bog landscape in Skaun.
On some stretches, boardwalks has been laid over the bogs.
Dogs barking in the air after I have left the gravel track after Mellingsætra, is there hunting going on? Hopefully not on pilgrims. It is interesting to see how much the red heather lights up the landscape in grey weather. The trail goes up a small hill and on the horizon, I can now just make out Orkdalsfjorden and Gaulosen.
Mellingsætra. In fact, over 40 people once lived here.
Gradually, the path I walk on becomes more solid, but at the same time it leaves the slightly more exciting bog landscape for a mixture of forest roads and paths that otherwise is a characterization of Gudbrandsdalsleden. It is still a nice walk, and although I occasionally have to wipe some water away from my face, this day probably qualifies for the most exciting hike after Dovrefjell so far.
View of Skaun under a grey sky.
More and more houses appear, I change the surface to wet asphalt and start on the last steps towards Skaun. The church spire is under maintenance, which gives the church a somewhat surreal feeling. 38km left to Trondheim now. This year, the parish house at Skaun is closed for overnight stays, but an agreement has been made that pilgrims who needs accommodation can be picked up and driven back by the hosts at Sundet Gård (which is where I am going today).
Looking back towards Skaun center, with the church under maintenance.
The centre of Skaun may not be that big, but here I find a grocery store and they also have their own small coffee corner. And they are so kind that they let a slightly wet pilgrim sit there and eat their lunch, sheltered from the rain.
Husaby, the ruins of a farm church of what was once the farm of Einar Tambarskjelve.
On the hillside above Skaun you find the remnants of the farm of Einar Tambarskjelve, Husaby, which many believe was central when it came to the sanctification of Olav Haraldsson. He himself was reportedly the strongest man in Norway, and the best archer. When I stand by the ruins of the farm church, which is the only thing left of the farm, it is almost as if the sun is about to break through the rain clouds.
Skaun village museum.
Lazy cow.
The rain has subsided. Skaun village museum is located right by the trail, not so big, but has a living room from around 1750, a barn from the 17th century, two old lofts and a pump house. The cow lying and dozing in the grass not far away is probably not considered a part of the museum.
Marsh landscape again, barely visible path.
Then it is reversed out of Skaun, by replacing the car road with a forest track which is then replaced by a path, which in turn leads up to another bog landscape. I enjoy the bogs in Skaun, but then I like bogs too. The smell of bog is something special. Forest path takes over again and after a good while I move up Djupdalen. Behind me there is a gap underneath the clouds that allows me to see the hills on the horizon.
A gap in the clouds, a view back from Djupdalsvollen.
From Nergårdsbakken, I will for the first time be able to see a glimpse of Trondheim, but there is little hope of that in this weather. Only when I approach Buvika, or more correctly the old sheriff's farm Snefugl, as well as Kleivan Pilgrimsherberge, do I get a better view and can look down on the fjord. Possibly as much as possible due to the logging field next to the pilgrim route.
Descent towards Buvika.
The pilgrim path down to Buvika next to Hammerbekken.
The marshes and the forest are behind me, but I still have a long way to go until I stand by the edge of the Gaula river. It also seems that the rain clouds are trapped in the branches of the forest, because on the way down to Buvikbukta there are signs that the clouds are starting to dissolve. The route down to Buvika goes through a steep but beautiful section among trees with a stream that is full of sound.
Promenade alongside Buvikbukta.
Along Buvikbukta, the trail runs on a nice promenade, at the same time as the clouds have turned full retreat. 1250, 1658, 1728, 1819. So, what are these numbers? These are the years when the various churches that have stood in Buvik were built (although the third is actually the same church that was taken by a clay landslide). The church that stands there now is one of the few octagonal churches in Norway.
Buvik church, one of the few octagonal churches in the country.
I go over to Øysanden. At the beach there is a sign with 'Lykkestien' ('The Path of Happiness') written on it. And it is a great degree of happiness to walk next to the water now, with the sun reflecting on the shore.
A tunnel in the vegetation, on the way over to Gaulosen.
John Wanvik has rowed countless pilgrims across Gaulosen to Sundet Gård, an old tradition that he remarkably took up again. To my great disappointment, it turns out that he cannot row me over. Due to large amounts of water, the rowing boat had capsized, and he had to take it ashore to fix it. And today it is too high a tide and it would be tiring to get the boat out again. He will pick me up in the car. I must say that I understand him well, although slightly disappointed.
Lykkestien (the Path of Happiness).
Unfortunately for him, I take the wrong path out on Gaulosen. Luckily for me, I am taking the wrong path out on Gaulosen. It gives me the opportunity to take a look at the Gaulosen Nature Reserve with its bird-watching tower. The light is absolutely beautiful out here now, being almost golden.
Gaulosen Nature Reserve.
Sundet Gård has stood as a lighthouse as the last accommodation before Nidaros. If there is anything negative to say about it, it is that it almost feels more than lavish when I look inside. There is something very stately about it. I am unable to make any negative comments about the place.
Gaulosen.
True to tradition, he always serves a traditional from this part of Norway dish to the pilgrims, Trøndersodd, which closely resembles a meat soup. Although he has been invited to a dinner, he still takes time to be a host and keeps me company.
Sundet farm.
This fabulous day ends with an equally fabulous colourful evening sky. And now there is only one day left (but not for my whole trip, but that's something I will come back to later).
Sunset from Sundet gård.
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