Distance: 33.7km (484.8km).
A lovely sleep is followed by a lovely morning, and then a good breakfast. At the same time, I feel a little overwhelmed by having such a large cabin all to myself, but given the very good dinner and nice company yesterday, I do not regret my decision.
Boardwalks over the bogs after Furuhauglie.
Today, the hike will be all about Dovrefjell. I plan to go to Kongsvoll to inspect the pilgrim hostel there (as part of my thought of checking out the Norwegian pilgrim hostels on this trip). There is talk that there are new owners at Kongsvold Fjeldstue and then we are interested in how the operation of the hostel there is continued.
On the path towards Glupensætre.
Mountain birch in autumn colors.
With a little more ice in the stomach, the pilgrimage could be done even later, because then the colors in the mountains would have been even more vibrant and beautiful. Autumn is in full swing, which is clear in the heather and on the scattered trees. Wait even longer and the world will be even redder.
Walking on a boardwalk towards Avsjøen.
It does not put a damper on the hike today, for colors are still abundant. And the sky is blue. However, it is not very hot, due to a fresh breeze blowing.
Avsjøen, with Avsjøhøe and Mehøe in the background.
Up towards Hageseter, the walk offers the pilgrims a beautiful scenery. On each side of the valley are higher mountains, the pilgrimage route meanders in and out of small clusters of mountain birch and over the softest bogs are boardwalks as protection against sinking into them. Still, I do not completely forget the fact that the E6 is right next door and from time to time you can hear the roar of a larger vehicle on the road.
Path through autumn heather.
God tur (Have a nice walk). Velkommen til Dovrefjell (Welcome to Dovrefjell). A stone dog welcomes me.
Aud and Reidun started before me from Furuhaugli, now I meet them when they have taken a break by a large rock. They seem to thrive in each other's company. We talk a little further, before I hurry on. They do not go further than to Hjerkinn today and I should not meet them again.
Reconstruction of the remains of an old public building at Vesle-Hjerkinn.
On the bridge over the Folla river.
The walk next to Avsjøen is especially nice, with the sound of waves crashing against the shore of the lake. I have always liked that sound. On a part of the shore, birch trees stand as a small avenue next to the path.
More walking on boardwalks through fall colors.
Before Hageseter I look up to where I know the route from Grimsdalshytta comes down, see if I can recognize my tent site when I went the Saga trail. It is not unexpected that today will offer some memories from that hike as both trails follow the same path a good distance. I feel the need to get a waffle and a coffee at Hageseter Turisthytte.
Eysteinkyrkja church.
Rondane on the horizon, snow on the peaks.
From here I follow my own tracks from a month ago, but it is a nice walk, so it does not bother me. Again I see the remains of the old house at Vesle-Hjerkinn, here there where several settlements while the Vikings roamed around the country (900-1359 AD). The bridge over the Folla River is still here, only the colors of the trees around have changed. And I take the same route up to Eysteinkyrkja, but drop the walk to Hjerkinn Fjellstue.
The pilgrim path over Hjerkinnhøe.
Eysteinkyrkja church is fan-shaped, built in 1969 and inspired by the Snøhetta peak. When I hiked Saga there was no one here, now there is no one here either. From here begins perhaps one of the most iconic stretches on the Gudbrandsdalsleden trail, the hike over Hjerkinnhøe. Even if it goes uphill all the way up, it is not a very difficult hike, you walk on a good and wide path. If you turn around, especially further up, you will be equally rewarded. Eventually, the iconic pyramids in Rondane appear on the horizon, now with clear layers of snow on them.
The Snøhetta massif from Hjerskalven, most of the snow that was on top of the peak yesterday has now been blown away.
At the summit of Hjerkinnshøe, 1288moh.
The highest point of where the trail goes over Hjerkinnhøe is at around 1206m and from there it is ‘only’ 208km left to Nidaros. If you have time available, I recommend following the path that goes west to the very summit of Hjerkinnhøe or Hjerskalven. The paths are not marked, but in good weather easy to follow. From the top of both those two summits there is a great view of the Snøhetta massif. Along the way, the blue sky has been replaced by clouds and I am back in the beautiful dramatic world I went through yesterday. In addition, it is quite a strong wind, I just smile from ear to ear.
At the 208km marker on Hjerkinnhøe.
Down towards Grønbakken.
The walk down from Hjerkinnhøe is just as great. My gaze is constantly turning towards Snøhetta, because now the light is again about to form a mighty spectacle. Snow over the summit and autumn colors over the landscape in the foreground.
The gaze was often turned towards Snøhetta, here with autumn colors in the landscape in the foreground.
From the parking lot on Grønbakken, the pilgrim path goes in an arc that initially looks a little strange. The hike, on the other hand, is nice. The sky is again dramatic, with one heavenly light (sic!). Towards the end, the trail goes above a small gorge with a stream below.
Another boulder named after a church? On the front mailbox there is a small cross made on top and inside the box there are pamphlets with texts from the Bible.
The sounds of shots make it very clear that there is hunting going on in the area, I hope I stand out well enough in the landscape. On the way I meet two hunters, one of them carrying the head of a reindeer. I talk to the hunters for a while and when I move on, I get annoyed that I forgot to take a picture of them with the head.
More magical and enchanting light over Dovrefjell.
In the middle of the picture you can see the clear line where Vårstigen rises upwards. That route awaits me tomorrow.
Just before you come down to Kongsvold Fjeldstue you can take a walk through their mountain garden, where you can take a closer look at what you should have seen before. Flowers, mountain plants, moss, and lichen from the mountains. Nice to see it here too. You also get a nice overview of the historic place which back in 1670 was given the status of a state mountain lodge.
Down towards Kongsvoll, the trail goes past Blesebekken.
Kongsvold Fjeldstue is a rather stately place. There is history in the walls here. Quiet and calm when I arrive. The good news is that they will continue to uphold the pilgrimage tradition here. For the pilgrims there is a separate cabin that is available, here there is also a kitchen if you want to cook for yourself. If you want even more luxury, you can of course also spend the night in the statelier rooms that the place offers.
View over Kongsvoll.
Kongsvold Fjeldstue.
A very good dinner. Relaxation among stately interiors, to get ready for the hardships of tomorrow. Then I will go over the highest point on the Gudbrandsdalsleden, and quite bad weather has been reported.
Inside the lodge at Kongsvold.
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