Distance: 19.0km (231.6km), time spent: 8:49 (114:37).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 400m / 250m / 618m.
Weather: Rain in the morning, mostly overcast during the day.
I forgot to tell you on the previous days post that Mr. Cho and his wife, Baek Seung Hee, also bought me breakfast for today. Which is the reason why I am sitting here looking out of the window at the rain outside, while I am eating two Big Macs as the first meal of the day. They also arranged for me to be driven back up to Keunjae today by the person working at the motel here. I am a little late in the morning, so he is waiting for me a little impatiently outside, but smiling. He drops me off at the now quiet pass, with the rain dropped down to only a small drizzle.
The trail enters the forest well-marked by ribbons and a signpost.
This is another subsequent day on the trail that is not too much exciting, but what does that matter when the Baekdudaegan conjures up days like yesterday. And it has in a way changed my expectations on the trail as well, from being excited about what awaits me around the corner on the trail, I am now also excited about what awaits of meetings with Koreans. Maybe it is that which is the true Baekdudaegan, the trail only being the spiritual backbone that leads to heart and soul of the Korean people.
A variety of ribbons attached to a tree.
I was wondering when I would have my first rainy day on the trail, and this appears to be the day. However, not long after I have started walking is it all gone, leaving only the grey sky behind. And me, walking through paths and roads in the forest, guided by ribbons. The ridge rising up from the farmland cradle.
Looking out to a farmland from the Baekdudaegan.
At Gaeteojae, a mountain road crosses the trail, or the trail crosses a mountain road if you prefer. The road is overgrown, with no sign of tracks or anything, bearing the mark of a road from old times. The next pass I come to is Witwangsiljae; here the trail crosses a mountain road on an ecobridge. It is only a small walk down to the farmland below. Ribbons adorns the fence on the bridge.
An overgrown old mountain road at Gaeteojae.
Baekhaksan (618m) is the highest point of today, so I am not venturing into high grounds this day. The summit is a nice place to bring out the stove from the backpack, and prepare for my usual ramyeon dish, with benches to sit on. Two weeks on the trail, that is something to think about when I am looking out from this wooden summit.
A natural staircase at Gaeteojae.
Reaching the pass of Gaemeorijae I get slightly confused by a sign with the name Jigijae on it. There is no directional markers on the sign, so it appears to be that I have arrived at my destination for the day, but it does not add up. A Korean farmer living nearby is vividly pointing me in the direction over the hill, so my sentiments where correct. I still have a 2.5km to walk before I can wrap up the day.
The ecobridge at Witwangsiljae.
At the correct pass of Jigijae (250m), the last metres of the trail passing between fields of grapes, the trailhead is celebrated with various items. A sign emphasises that I am walking on the watershed, with symbols showing that water from here runs down into the rivers of Kŭmgang (to the west) and Naktonggang (to the east). There is also a Cheon-Ji-In monument here, as well as a statue bearing what appears to be some kind of grape farms mascots.
The summit of Baekhaksan, the summit offers a shaded place to rest and some views to the surrounding landscape.
I have planned to stay at the Jigijae Sanjang, now just the task of finding the place remains. One kilometre down the road my guidebook says, so I start walking down the road, passing a building housing several old women wrapping in grapes. I ask them for directions, they point me down the road, so I continue walking down the road. No sign of the place. I come to an old woman selling grapes by the road. I ask her for directions (mind you, that this is by pointing at the name in the guidebook); she points me up the road at the village I have just passed. I thank her, and receive a cluster of grapes before I go.
View from the ridge between Gaemeorijae and Jigijae.
There is no sign of the place at the small village either, only the trail of grape seeds that I have spit out. Finally, I come to a house where an old woman (again) is sitting working with grapes (yet again). She and her husband does however know the whereabouts of the place, and will drive me there. But first, I have to sit down, being offered a cup of coffee. All this is conveyed through body language and Korean language that I do not understand. Before the husband drives me to the sanjang, I receive another bunch of grapes.
The pass of Jigijae.
I am finally at the place, loaded with grapes, the sanjang looking exactly like a minbak. The kind owner of the sanjang is driving me to a nearby town so I can buy supplies and food for dinner, waiting patiently outside while I take my time in the store. He also is giving me some grapes. I notice that Ben and Kellyn, who I noticed also had stayed at the Gwaebangryeong Sanjang, had stayed here as well. I spend a quiet evening at the place.
The Jigijae Sanjang.
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