Distance: 15.5km (341.6km), time spent: 10:20 (179:27).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 525m / 327m / 1026m.
Weather: Heavy rain and wind (typhoon).
I wake up to the most dramatic day on the walk so far. It has poured down all night long, and there are no signs of it abating either. There is nothing pleasant about preparing breakfast, in the sour and gusty weather. A walk to the hyugeso through the tunnel to throw away some garbage and buy some soda from the vending machines outside, is a short premonition of what lies ahead. The place is dark and deserted, the rain is lashing down unceasingly and I am wrapping myself well up inside my raincoat. The two bikers are still sleeping inside the tent when I set off in the morning; I leave behind some biscuits for them in the jeongja. It is definitely more tempting just crawling back inside the tent again, but if I stop for every day it rains, I might never finish the walk.
Rolling clouds and rain in the valley below Ihwaryeong in the morning, the road can be seen like a glowing thread through the clouds.
From Ihwaryeong the Baekdudaegan enters Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park, and over a wonky and exposed ridge. With equally spectacular views, which I get to see fairly little of. And you too, I am forced to put away my camera in my backpack so it does not get broken, my small compact camera have to make do. The walk up towards Joryeongsan is a soggy one, named after the highest pass the Great Yeongnam Road in Mungyeong Saejae goes over. On the places there are views to be had; you can only a see a grey wall.
The jeongja at Ihwaryeong.
From Joryeongsan (1026m) however, the trail changes character. While the rain lashes me in the face in a continuous onslaught, the trail is balancing further on an exposed ridge. I have to scramble over, next to, and up and down huge boulders with the aid of ropes while it is blowing and raining heavily. There are long drops on each side of several of these obstacles, so you have to be concentrated when you walk across them. The rain is making the rocky surface slippery.
Misty mountain hop.
I am wearing good rainwear, but what good does that do when the attack is coming from the inside. The many ropes are making me soaking wet, the water runs down the ropes and then by my hands finds its way underneath the clothes on my arms. All I have of clothes under the rainwear gets drenched, the shoes as well. Twice I slip and fall on the now treacherous path, which has turned into a tenacious stream of mud. Fortunately, this is happening on parts of the trail that are not exposed, but also because of it, since I am less concentrated at the time. Several times I have to stop to empty the raincoat of my backpack of water.
The ridge of Mungyeong Saejae.
In between, the bad weather allows me to see something of the scenery around me, through small glimpses. It is undeniably spectacular and the clouds that are wearing and tearing in the mountains makes it even more dramatic. I later get to hear that it was a typhoon that I had been walking in, if I had knew that, I would have probably thought it over again before I had started to walk this section of the trail. It is though quite likely that the hosts at the Ihwaryeong Hyugeso did try to warn me that it was a typhoon, but that they did not know how they would tell me since we do not speak each other's languages. A communication problem led me out into this hardship.
Walking over Mungyeong Saejae in a typhoon, one of the numerous descents and ascents with the aid of ropes while it was pouring down.
I arrive at Joryeong and the third gate of the Great Yeongnam Road tired, wet and cold. It is completely quiet at the pass, there are some few others visitors here, but they disappear fast and I am left behind alone in the rain. It is a magnificent and mighty place. The restaurant here that the guidebook is advertising for is unfortunately closed, I had looked forward to get inside a warm place and get something to eat after this strenuous walk. Instead, I seek shelter underneath the gate and eat something from my own food supply while I am wondering what to do.
At the summit of Sinseonambong (937m).
Originally, my plan was to go to Haneuljae, about 9km more, I can still do that. I will be able to keep myself relatively warm if I only walk. However, there is nothing at that pass. I will be able to change into dry clothes and get the warmth back, inside the tent; but all of the clothes and shoes that I walk in will be wet and they will not be dry again to tomorrow. Camping is not allowed here at Joryeong, but there is a jeongja here that I can use. But the same applies here as at Haneuljae, I will not get my clothes and shoes dry. Walking down from the pass is now a long walk on tired and sore feet, whichever way I choose, and there is the backside that I have to walk back up again.
The clouds wearing and tearing in the landscape below the Mungyeong Saejae-ridge.
I finally decides to follow the Great Yeongnam Road down to Mungyeongeup. The way goes through three magnificent gates with 3km between each of them; I am currently located at the uppermost gate (Joryeonggwan). About 1km after the lowermost gate (Juheulgwan) you find Mungyeongeup, so there are about 7km to walk. I totters downwards in the rain on sore feet.
Joryeonggwan, the third gate of the Great Yeongnam Road.
When I have been walking downwards for some time I can hear music come from the trees and sees that there is a restaurant that is open. I quickly goes in, happy and pleased to get inside a warm place. A group of retired policemen are also at the place and are inviting me to eat with them. Korean pancakes, pajeon, and kogi (meat), so I satisfied eat what I am being offered. For drink, I am being served makgeolli mixed with beer. The meat turns out to be snails, not quite my taste, but it went down.
In shelter for the storm in a restaurant below Joryeong, together with a group of retired policemen.
There is still some way to go down to Mungyeongeup, the restaurant is located between the third and second gate (Jogokgwan), I keep company with the policemen down. It is a nice walk down, but in my state I unfortunately does not get much out of it. Finally down, we find a minbak for me, and a well maintained one as that. I take off all my wet clothes and shoes, and hangs them to dry. And after a hot shower and having put on some dry clothes, then life is good again.
Down at Juheulgwan, the first gate of the Great Yeongnam Road. Mungyeongeup is lying a little bit further down.
I eat bibimpap for dinner at a local restaurant, but that is also almost all I see of the place in the afternoon and evening. I will have time enough to look at the place and Mungyeong Saejae; I have decided to take a day of rest tomorrow. After three weeks on the journey, it is probably ok to take a break. What a day.
<- IhwaryeongMungyeongeup ->
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