Distance: 15.7km (247.3km), time spent: 6:35 (121:12).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 250m / 325m / 538m.
Weather: Slightly overcast.
The owner of the Jigijae Sanjang drives me back to the trailhead at Jigijae, which is more like 3km from the place than 1. I thank him for his hospitality and makes my way past the turtle and the grape orchards. This is another gentle, in comparison with the usual standard of the Baekdudaegan, walk. I believe the sections of the trail after leaving Chupungryeong to probably be the easiest parts of the Baekdudaegan, where you go mostly in lower grounds through cultivated areas. Though never really easy, it does not let go of its undulating ways.
Cheon-Ji-In monument at the trailhead at Jigijae. The turtle represents the Earth, the black stele the humanity and the dragons represents the Heaven's powers.
The day almost starts with a climb up a rocky escarpment, with ropes for aid, with good farmland views at the top. From where the walk is a pleasant stroll through a forest to the pass of Sinuiteojae. An older man is out foraging nuts from the undergrowth. Too short to stop for the day at Sinuiteojae (280m), even though the jeongja next to the quiet road is a tempting place to spend the night. Otherwise, there is another turtle statue here, this one larger than the one at Jigijae, a stele and other monuments.
View from top of a bald escarpment above Jigijae.
And a fountain, but as I am about to take a sip, the old man I met in the forest is coming to the pass; telling me not to drink of the water. He invites me home for coffee, his small and cosy house situated almost next to where there trail continues from Sinuiteojae. Inside his home, the walls are decorated with pictures of his family; in the corner is his workbench. He tells me that he is practising calligraphy in his spare time, which of course he has plenty of.
The ridges of Baekdudaegan in the distance.
Foraging for nature, the walk is not spectacular, just a satisfying meander through lush forest. I deposit my backpack for a visit to the summit of Mujigaesan (441m); the trail does not enter the wooded and hidden summit. At Yunjimisan (538m), I have my lunch break. It appears that ribbons come and go, there are from the look of it, not so many ribbons hanging from the tree now as it appears on the picture from the guidebook. I feel relaxed sitting under the rustling leaves and ribbons.
Sinuiteojae.
Friendly old man by his calligraphy desk in his home at Sinuiteojae.
It is not such a relaxing moment on the trail, where the Changwon-Sangju Expressway runs under the ridge. A short moment only, before the huge stele at Hwaryeongjae is appearing in front of me. It really is huge; I am not even reaching up to the lowest Baekdudaegan Hangeul character on the monument. The jeongja here, a nice one elevated on a concrete platform, will be my accommodation for the night. Early arrival, so I have not planned to stay here all the time.
The hidden summit of Mujigaesan.
After a rest, I call for a taxi to take me down into the small township of Hwaseomyeon. I also have a plan to see the 230cm high sitting Buddha statue nearby. Firstly, I want to see if I can find me a pc-bang (internet café) here. It is about time to check my emails and send some greetings back home. Finding one is easier said than done, but I get to see the town searching for a place. They look surprised to see foreigners here as well. Some working at a beauty salon tells me there is no pc-bang here, but I could try the library at the high school.
At the summit of Yunjimisan, preparing lunch.
At the high school, I do not get far before I, instead of sitting in front of a computer, am sitting down with teachers and staff at the high school. Served traditional sweet rice cakes, I tell about my walk so far. One of them, Chae Bo Geun, is very fond of mountaineering and has Amundsen has one of his favorite explorers, so he is fascinated by me being in South-Korea to walk in the mountains here. I also talked a lot with Minah Choi, who also translated to Chae Bo Geun. Time flies fast in good company, so the time I have at hand at the computer is lessening. This is by far a nicer way of spending it however. When I do get time, I do what I need to do quickly, before a bunch of schoolboys' rambles in and start playing computer games.
The huge Baekdudaegan stele at Hwaryeongjae.
I eat dinner at a local restaurant, served bimbimbap, which is rice with a fried egg and various vegetables, all mixed together with a spicy paste of chili (gochujang). Then wreaking havoc in the nearby supermarket. I try to get the taxi driver to take me to the Buddha statue, but he does not understand me, so the taxi ride goes straight back to Hwaryeongjae.
The elevated jeongja at Hwaryeongjae, my accommodation for the night.
I kind of enjoying my evenings at a jeongja, where I can sit back and think about the days' adventures. From here, I can look up at the eastern part of the Songnisan mountains, looking back at a pleasant, but not spectacular day. Everything is almost silent, when I spread out my sleeping bag and goes to sleep in the middle of the pavilion. Tomorrow another national park awaits.
Chae Bo Geun and Minah Choi at Hwaryeong High School. Wanted to borrow a computer at the library, instead I got a very nice meeting with these two at the school.
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