Distance: 11.5km (112.5km), time spent: 7:59 (60:08).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 696m / 1280m / 1507m.
Weather: Sunny, so cloudy, but no rain.
I am standing at the gates of another national Park, Deogyusan, eager to know what treats it will offer me. Through the national park, the Baekdudaegan covers more than 30km of ridge passing over about sixteen peaks on its way. A change of vegetation is promised, as the trail goes up into higher ground.
Rocky outcrops seen from Halmibong.
Daepobawi or Namgeunseokbawi, a phallic rock below Halmibong. Seobong in the background.
I start the day with an apple, then breakfast at the restaurant. Most of the apples and juice I leave behind at the restaurant, hoping the kids at the place will get their share, then I bid Yuksipryeong farewell. It is all punishing uphill from the start, ropes attached. Reward given at the summit of Halmibong (1026m), perched on top of some rocky cliffs, views to be had while I am basking in my own sweat. Yesterday's peak of Gitdaebong appearing at my back, looking ahead I see the ridge crawling its way up to the two-horned gate of Deogyusan.
The staircase leading down from Halmibong to the ridge going up to the two-horned gate of Deogyusan, Seobong and Namdeogyusan.
From Halmibong I leave the ridge and go down to the phallic rock of Daepobawi, also known as Namgeunseokbawi, passing by some other hikers on the way. The rock really is phallic in appearance, but I can see the resemblance of a cannon like the Japanese did during the Imjin Invasion (1592-1598).
View from the summit of Seobong.
In the same way that the walk is a tough climb, it is also an outstanding walk. The ridge is generally gaining height, but it does not fail in its continuing rhythm of ascents and descents, often aided by impressive staircases, ropes and boardwalks. As the trail climbs closer to the first of the two horns, Seobong, the vegetation is falling behind, leaving you on open ground to the rocky summit.
Going down a long staircase from Seobong, Namdeogyusan next summit.
The west peak stands at 1492m, at the start of the high ridge of Deogyusan National Park. The peak is besieged by views on all sides, by dark clouds above and small annoying and biting insects on the summit. Luckily, there is enough wind on a ledge to provide shelter from the tiny buggers, where I can sit down and eat lunch. Apple and juice with a view.
The summit of Namdeogyusan, the stele swarming with small and annoying insects.
From Seobong the trail is going down another pair of staircases, I have never been on a trail consisting of so many stairs as this one. It is fun walking on them though. At the summit of Namdeogyusan (1507m), the South Deogyu Mountain, I do not manage to stay for long. Looking at the view is good; being bitten by the insects is not. The stele at the summit is swarming with them. The walk to Satgatgoljae is a nice ridgewalk.
View of Deogyusan National Park from Namdeogyusan.
The Satgatjae shelter is a smaller shelter than the ones I had stayed at earlier, outside the wooden building there is a platform with several places to sit down on is offering a good view to the valley below. I feel at once much more at ease here than in Seseok and Nogodan. The only drawback is the long walk down a staircase to get water. Small booths in the dormitory here as well, but here it does not feel so cramped.
Looking back at the peaks of Namdeogyusan and Seobong.
To book a place at the shelter proved to be a problem though, since the Baekdudaegan does not enter the national park through any of the main entrances. And I have no means of connecting to the internet, where booking should be done from. When I called the Deogyusan National Park office when I was in Yuksipryeong, I was answered with a message that I did not understand a word of. Other than it was probably some kind of a menu. Fortunately, I got some help by the owner of the big hyugeso at Yuksipryeong. It took a long time arguing to get them to book a place for me over the phone, due to the payment issue. In the end, I managed to convince them that the easiest way was for me to pay when I arrived here.
Going on a boardwalk between Wolseongjae and Satgatbong.
For dinner I prepare my now standard issued ramyeon dish. They were out of precooked rice at the shelter, but the guardians here generously gave me some of their own. Some other hiker is giving me some pickles. Today I did not feel as tired as earlier during the walk, maybe I am starting to adapt to the trail. The walk was definitely a good one. In the evening, I look down at the small lights from the valley below.
The Satgatjae shelter.
<- YuksipryeongBbaejae ->
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