Distance: 16.5km (358.1km), time spent: 8:27 (186:54).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 327m / 550m / 934m.
Weather: Slightly overcast, nice in the evening.
Three weeks actually passed on the journey, before I got my first day with really bad weather. Admittedly, it had rained a little bit in the morning when I went from Keunjae to Jigijae, and there had been some days with many dark and ominous clouds, but the typhoon was the first proper encounter with Korean weather. I shall not complain, even though I lost two days due to this. Today I set my sights on walking to Haneuljae, the pass that I had planned to go to two days ago. I have had a nice stay here in Mungyeongeup, but now it is time to continue my marvellous adventure.
Joryeong Sanshingak. This well built and well-ornamented shrine stands where Baekdudaegan comes down to the pass and Joryeonggwan.
From Mungyeongeup I have to get up to Joryeong again to continue further on the Baekdudaegan. I pass through a quiet town in the morning. I pass yet another film shoot at Jogokgwan, walking between actors and extras. The hostess from the restaurant further up passes me in a car, waving to me. Pays them a visit on the way, where I receive a cup of kopi (coffee) by the friendly hosts. The weather is completely different now than it was when I came down two days ago. With the now nice weather, I get to take a better look at Joryeonggwan and the surrounding area.
Ominous clouds and blue sky over Mungyeong Saejae.
'Back to Daegan' then. From the bird pass, the trail enters Woraksan National Park and passes over the eastern ridge that forms the V around the Yeongnam road. And as usual, the day always starts with a climb up. There is some uncertainty whether this part of the trail is closed or not; in the guidebook this section is marked as closed, but there are no signs that it is closed at the beginning of the trail here. However, I am not letting me be affected by it and allows me to be brought up to 922m and Mapaebong.
Bugammun, an ancient and forgotten gate to Mungyeong Saejae.
At the summit of Bubong, view back towards Joryeong, which you can see almost in the lower centre of the picture.
The view from here is not as cheerful as it was down at Saejae, dark clouds is pictured above the provincial park. I fear another bout with the wet element from above. The trail is today as well passing by fortress walls from bygone days, it moves alongside the old and forgotten northern gate to Mungyeong Saejae, Bugammun, and forward to Dongammun (east rock gate). There has been a lot of history on the trail these last days.
Bubong, seen from below, where Baekdudaegan passes over several footbridges.
Bubong (934m) is tempting you away from the trail, tempting you to climb yet another series of ropes, tempting with a view over the white, steep and rocky peaks of Woraksan. They lies there resting, the white sides of the mountains pale in the waning light of the sun. The clouds rolling inwards. Climbing up after me to the summit comes another hiker, Jong Hoon, on a round trip from Mungyeongeup over Jubong and Juheulsan.
The summit of Tanhangsan.
Jubong (1079m) is the highest point on the Juheulsan-mountain, but it is not part of the spiritual backbone. Hence, the trail is not going the 2.6km to the view from the summit. Jong Hoon is going there; he overtakes me again at the junction where I stand pondering whether I should go the additional 5 kilometres. We stay talking for a time; he thinks Norway sounds nice, but cold. Jubong is left in peace, and so the hardship for my somewhat hurting knees will be lesser.
A huge cliff with the appearance like a thumb, nearby Gulbawi.
At Gulbawi, a huge rocky cliff is blocking the path; it is as the mountain gives you the thumbs up, an enormous 'like'. A curiosity to climb around on. Before you lower your shoulders, you have done it, the mountain has given its approval, and walk down the final stretch to Haneuljae. Where a stele stands like a thin index finger to the sky.
The stele at Haneuljae, like an index finger that points up to the sky.
Haneuljae, reading about the place in the guidebook made me think of a very secluded place, lies at the end of a road that ends abruptly. Continuing further on from the road, there is only an old mountain road that goes into the woods and down towards an old temple. There is a building here, Haneuljae Sanjang, which is widely decorated with ribbons and paintings. Outside an old man is sitting, who turns out to be the owner of the place, 72 years old. I make me some food while we are talking together. He is giving his consent to me putting up my tent outside the building. I could have slept inside if I wanted it, but he said it was quite untidy there now, so he thought it would be better for me to sleep in the tent anyway. Instead, he is offering me a bottle of makgeolli and some apples. He himself lived further down the road.
Haneuljae Sanjang. Situated in a quiet and remote part. The owner of the place sitting outside the house.
The tent is pitched when I walk under the trees on the old road that goes down to the temple of Mireuksaji. Before the Great Yeongnam road was built, this was one of the main thoroughfares over the mountains here. The way flows quietly down the valley, with the leaves rustling slowly in the wind, past trees formed like ballerina dancers. There is prayer songs coming from Mireuksaji. The temple contains a 10m tall and thin Buddha-statue. The sun is waning when I goes up again, where more food and a relaxing evening inside my little shelter is awaiting me.
The 10m tall Buddha-statue in the Mireuksaji-temple.
<- MungyeongeupAnsaengdal ->
No comments:
Post a Comment