Distance: 19.7km (377.8km), time spent: 9:33 (196:27).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 550m / 614m / 1115m.
Weather: Slightly overcast.
It felt good for me to be going again, though I only had a one-day break, but I am not sure if my legs and knees are sharing the same optimism. They have begun to feel the kilometres carrying a heavy load on this perpetual rollercoaster ride. There will be no respite for them today either, the trail continues its undulating way onwards, but today I will meet a special object on the Baekdudaegan. Which could bring about a renewed optimism, or the opposite. A bus load of hikers are being dumped at the pass in the morning.
Morning haze in the valley below Woraksan and Poamsan.
Up towards Poamsan the trail is today offering a small riddle, in the shape of where the path really is going. At a small water source, the path is dividing, and there are no ribbons by any of the alternatives. I choose the path that seemingly follows the contours of the ridge at most and is the steepest, which sort of has been the trademark of the trail so far. As it usually chooses to confront an ascent by going straight up it, instead of going gradually upwards. Further up, after some uncertainty, a lonesome ribbon is fluttering conformingly. Down in the valley there is a thin layer of haze, with a dawning grey layer of clouds and morning sun, faintly dramatic.
Stairway to Poamsan, with a view of Woraksan National Park.
After an outlook to all sides from Poamsan (962m), it changes between forests and views on the way onward. The stretch today is described as remarkably in the guidebook, but even though I often get the opportunity to look out over this part of South-Korea, I am not completely captivated today. More remarkably are the names of some of the peaks here, Kkokdubawibong (838m) and Ggoiggoribong, the latter is however not situated on the trail.
View down towards Haneuljae and over to the ridge I walked on yesterday.
The trail is here moving through the southern part of Woraksan that forms a part of the Sobaeksanmaek mountain range (sanmaek means mountain range). This range passes through Woraksan and Sobaeksan before it links up with Taebaksanmaek on the eastern coast of Korea. In the heart of Woraksan however, I am not. The path here does not look like the customary paths you usually encounter in the national parks, it is easy to walk on and is mostly clear and visible, but are not fenced in, as I have been accustomed to. The highest mountain in the national park, Munsubong (1161m), is located further north from me. The deciduous trees of Woraksan is supposed to be coloured blood red in the fall and I passed a tree in full colour fire, but it is too early to experience in at its most colourful.
At the summit of Poamsan.
And if there were any uncertainty if the trail was closed from Joryeong, there is not any at Magolchi. My lawless walk continues. I am not alone in doing so; I meet some other hikers inside the closed area, after Kkokdubawibong and before Daemisan (1115m). I greeted two of them by the way at Haneuljae in the morning; we get a longer talk this time.
The trail, where it meanders through the trees in Woraksan.
A section of the part is heavily torn up by wind, with fallen trees blocking the path several times. In between, I get the feeling of not being quite sure that I am on the right way, especially when there are long stretches between the ribbons. But when a monument of stone suddenly appears in the middle of the path, I can smile broadly. Or think of everything that remains of toil. The monument is the halfway marker of the Baekdudaegan in South-Korea, 367.325km between Cheonwangbong and Jinburyeong. I choose to celebrate that I have finished walking half of the trail, so I bring the bottle of soju out in the light and makes a toast for the journey so far.
View from Kkokdubawibong, behind to the right Poamsan with Haneuljae below to the left.
At the summit of Daemisan, which is on its way to be overgrown.
Chagatjae is situated in a spoiled spot with tall grass beneath a power mast, and there are over thirty kilometres to the next place where I can buy more provisions, so I decide to go down to the little mountain village of Ansaengdal. At Hwangjansan Minbak there are no one present, when I call I have some problems making myself understood, until I hear that the one I am talking to is standing in the apple orchard right next to me. There are no rooms left at the place, but I can pitch my tent outside, get a shower at the place and if I want, dinner and breakfast. I am extremely satisfied.
At the halfway marker of the Baekdudaegan.
Arriving in a taxi is Jae-young Lee and by that nicely solved the problem of getting to a store to shop (there are no shops at the village). He is a pleasant acquaintance and since he is speaking English, he gets the job as an interpreter. Jae-young is also hiking the Baekdudaegan and has today walked from Beoljae to Jeosuryeong. I acquires the taxi, which drives me to the nearest shop in another village a little distance away. Yet another micro adventure away from the trail, I sit curious and watch the landscape, the places and the people in this culture far from my own. In the store, I stock up on food for the upcoming days and something for the evening (chips, beer, sweets).
Colour fire in the trees, the autumn is not far away and in Woraksan the deciduous trees will be coloured blood red.
I eat dinner together with Jae-young and two other hikers also staying at the place, good food and pleasant, but unfortunately with a little bit too much seafood that I cannot eat (allergic). In the evening my thoughts are going back to the journey I have behind me, it is strange to know that I am now halfway. I am a little bit nervous about if I am able to complete the whole trail, I am tired and my knees are not in their best shape.
Pitching my tent outside Hwangjangsan Minbak in the small mountain village Ansaengdal. The picture is taken by ae-young Lee.
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