Distance: 17.4km (86.2km), time spent: 8:40 (44:45).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 600m / 1278m / 1278m.
Weather: Clear sky with a thin haze of clouds.
On my sixth day on the Baekdudaegan, today aiming for the summit I had in mind for yesterday. Woke up and did not feel very hungry so I just ate a small breakfast, which I of course was punished for later on. Back at the trailhead, I found out that I had forgotten my hat back at the minbak, so I got a thorough look at the 800 meters of road between the Bokseongijae pass and the minbak.
The first peak after climbing back on the ridge from Bokseongijae, nice views from the peak with an unknown name.
Thankfully, the trail from here is a great improvement from yesterday in terms of view. It still goes through thick brush and high grass at times, and has no intention of letting you off easy, but after climbing up to a peak at 712.2m the Baekdudaegan is back to a more open ridge again. The peak provides some nice views of the cultural landscape surrounding the ridge. Being on a mountain ridge that does not cross water my eyes are drawn to the view of the Donghwaho Lake to the northwest. Looking ahead, the roof of the jeongja at Chijae is looking strangely out of place, an anomaly between the green foliage.
A ridge all dressed in green foliage, the jeongja at Chijae visible below and in the background the summit of Baegunsan.
Far in the background of the ridge is the white cloud summit of Baegunsan. Until the pass of Gwangdaechi, the trail is mostly a pleasant, but not easy walk on an open ridge, occasionally dipping under the cover of trees. You never really escape from the trees here. At Bonghwasan (919.8m) you could on a fine day look all the way back to the start of the Baekdudaegan, Cheonwangbong. Not today though, the views are good, but a haze veils the line of sight.
View west towards Beonammyeon and the Donghwaho Lake.
The jeongja at Chijae, this one not so ornate as the usual ones I have encountered, still a good place to rest if need be.
From Gwangdaechi the ridge has been absorbed by the forest again, with the trail going through a part that is a little bit boring. I am struggling a little bit at this time, I feel tired and a little bit insecure if I will be able to complete the walk actually. The trail has been much harder than I had anticipated. What I need is food.
The summit of Bonghwasan.
There is no water at Baegunsan, so I have to carry what I need from Jungjae. A good place to refill my energy levels as well. I find only a trickle of water from a stream on the eastern side of the pass, and nearly steps on a snake lying coiled together near the stream. Do not want to be bitten by a snake here. I find a much better water source on the western side of the pass. Then I eat lunch under the quiet rustling of the overhanging leaves, gathering strength for the upcoming climb to Baegunsan.
View of the continuing ridge from Bonghwasan, descending from the peak on a wooden staircase.
The climb up into the white clouds is however not as hard as the impression the guidebook gives. It is a steady climb and that suits me much better than the usual rollercoaster climbs on the Baekdudaegan, going steep up and down all the time. Just before the summit, I pass in wonder the two graves overlooking the peaks of Jungbong and Kkeutbong, the peaks emanating spiritual energy from the temples of Sangyeondae and Mukgyeam below them.
In the forest again, here descending down towards Jungjae pass.
At the summit of Baegunsan (1278m) is a helipad next to a quite large stele made of stone, on the proper summit above is a small stele and a signpost that has seen its better days. The large stele says that Baegunsan means 'white cloud mountain' and that this is the highest of the 30 of them in Korea. The view from the peak is good, but I have to tiptoe a little bit to see over the vegetation surrounding the summit. I pitch my tent at the helipad, though I was for some time tempted to continue walking down to Muryeonggogae and the groovy confines of a karaoke machine and electric guitar.
The pass of Jungjae. A quiet place in the forest, where fueling up with water is recommended before the climb up to Baegunsan.
While eating dinner there is the sudden sound of an approaching animal, coming from the forest below. By the sound of it, I believe it to be a wild boar. When I make myself known, the sounds stop dead, before I can hear something going fast down again. After leaving Bokseongijae that was the nearest I have come to meet any other living being today, I met no one at the trail today.
The summit of Baegunsan, the white cloud mountain. The signpost looks tired of its life at the peak.
The sun goes down behind closed curtains. Evening comes and I return to my tent, quite drowsy after today's exertions. A good day on the spiritual backbone today. I go to sleep hoping for a nice sunrise tomorrow.
The area below the summit of Baegunsan, a large stele and a nice helipad to pitch a tent.
<- BokseongijaeYuksipryeong ->
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