Distance: 9.5km (212.6km), time spent: 4:46 (105:48).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 600m / 400m / 795m.
Weather: Nice weather.
This was a day that bore no excitement on the trail, but nevertheless this could very well prove to be the crucial day of the walk in some way.
Originally, I had intended to go to Jigijae on this stage of my journey, but according to the guidebook that would be a twelve hours walk or so without breaks. Listening to the warning signs I got after the thirteen hours long walk from Bbaejae to Samdobong, I decided to split this stage into two. This day being the short one of the two, which is suiting me fine actually, meaning that I can get early to a place and do some chores that I need to do. Like doing a proper washing of my clothes again. It turned out that I got to be doing none of them.
A renegade church in the woods, or just an ordinary shack? Amongst the prayer rocks (Gidobawi) I came upon this derelict building on the trail.
From Jakjeomjae, I find my way quickly back into the forest again, no change there. The Baekdudaegan is typically at its most rewarding when it is at its hardest. Today is an easier day, so the rewards are accordingly. On the way to Keunjae, there are views, but they are not very spectacular. The best view I get is on the way up to the summit of Guksubong (795m).
Resting at a track junction between Yongmunsan and Guksubong.
The most special found on the walk was a derelict shack in the middle of the forest. Around the shack was several rocks, which supposedly should be so-called prayer rocks, or Gidobawi. They looked just like ordinary rocks to me, with nothing special about them. There is nothing inside the shack, not a hymnbook or a crucifix, as it was when the authors of the guidebook was here. A deserted place and a forgotten shrine, with the door missing, its significance maybe lost some time ago. Only the wind stirring inside the shack.
View from the summit of Guksubong, farmland below.
I arrive at Keunjae extremely thirsty, a hot day indeed and no water stops on the way, as well as before mentioned no water at Jakjeomjae. The pass of Keunjae has no real amenities. There was once an abandoned school there, whish is now demolished. Instead, there is an educational center about nature and Korean culture for children, with a huge park and a jeongja outside. Apparently there is a kindergarden visiting the place, the air is full of voices and kids running around the park. My eyes are however mostly fixed on the large metal fountain and vending machine there.
The pass of Keunjae.
And it is at that moment that the focal point of the day happens. While I stand fumbling with the vending machine, it refusing to accept my 1000-won note, one of the kindergarden teachers approaches me. And so it is that Mr. Cho Byeongsam enters my life on the trail. My thirst quenched, we strike up a conversation, with Mr. Cho curious about me being in Korea doing the Baekdudaegan, it soon turns out that he is a pleasant man to talk with. Although, not fluent in English. He is fluent in jeong though, offering me some food.
In Gimcheon, with the kids of the kindergarden.
Now another amazing adventure in Korea with the Baekdudaegan as the origin is happening. As it happens, Mr. Cho is inviting me to Gimcheon, where the kindergarden is from. So, after all the children has got in line, waved goodbye to me and practiced their little English on me ("Hello! How are you?"), and then entered the bus; I am also walking onto the bus to the amazement of the kids. Next thing is, me driving to the city of Gimcheon in the bus, not quite knowing how to get back and what will happen next.
In the kindergarden in Gimcheon, the kids waving goodbye to me. Mr. Cho Byeongsam to the left.
In Gimcheon, I get to take a shower in the kindergarden, and then Mr. Cho and his Wife, Baek Seung Hee, is driving me to the Jikjisa-temple. I am certain why they take me there, since me and Mr. Cho was talking about the temple and that I said I wanted to go there when I looked down upon it. How a fantastic turn of fate. They are Buddhists, so while they go to pray, I walk around looking at the temple. From the temple grounds, I can look up at the mountain of Hwangaksan, where I stood looking down from two days ago.
The Jikjisa-temple.
It is a great temple, you cannot be but astounded by the ornate buildings of the temples in this land. Inside one of the temple buildings at the site, is a collection of about 1000 small Buddha statues. One of the guards at the temple is inviting me into the guardhouse for a cup of coffee. Before we leave, we bear witness to the ceremony of the coming of a new month, where the monks are playing the drums for the animals, humans, fishes and the heaven.
Baek Seung Hee and Cho Byeongsam at Jikjisa.
We then go to eat dinner at a restaurant in a sprawling village located next to the temple, probably serving the masses that visits the temple. Huge amount of food, very good, but I skipped the grasshoppers. After eating, they drives me back to Keunjae, and beyond, to a motel located not far from the pass. Though we have some difficulty finding it in the dark. Then they drives back home to Gimcheon, a distance of about 35 kilometres. Which is almost too much generosity, you feel kind of in debt after such hospitality.
Ceremony for the coming new month in Jikjisa.
A marvellous day on the Daegan, thanks to Mr. Cho and his wife, though the best part of the day was not spent on the actual trail. I did not get to wash my clothes.
My somewhat quirky motel room where I will spend my night. It has a certain feeling of belonging to another kind of establishement, which is kind of confirmed later on by the sounds I can hear in the evening (it is not though).
<- JakjeomjaeJigijae ->
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