Distance: 27.1km (129.7km).
When I looked at the map of where the new route is going I was not very satisfied. Instead of keeping to the higher ground, as the original route past the Gråhøgdbu cabin (now closed) did, the new route is heading lower down. It will first go through a cabin area, which I have never been very fond of, especially the ones with the huge and vulgar cabins. Then it will go through an area of woods and marshes, where I fear that my shoes will be completely wet and making my feet sore again. Finally, before the trail is reaching Rondane national park, it will go through another cabin area. Before I stumbled into the cabin yesterday, I had toyed with the idea of going back and hiking the old route, but had discarded the idea.
Old kind of log laying bridge over the Mya river.
For unknown reasons I am off to an all too late start. From the cabin there is a short walk down to a road and the cabin area around Spidsbergseter, crossing over a wooden log laying bridge that uses an old style of weight principle to keep the bridge erect. I briefly stop at the Spidsbergseter Resort for a refreshment.
View of the Venabygdsfjellet mountain, Muen clearly discernible.
At the top of Flaksjøhøgda, with Flaksjøen lake below.
Thankfully the cabin area is not that large and the cabins far from being that imposing. And as soon as I have climbed up to the top of Flaksjøhøgda through the ski resort, the view in front of me is all mountain scenery. The only fly in the ointment is the view of the pyramid-shaped Muen in the distance, I had really wanted to climb that peak on the way, but I will have to keep that climb for later.
View of Muen from Flaksjøhøgda.
Flaksjøhøgda is not a big mountain, but the view is nice for its size, especially in the direction I am walking. Mountains rising up underneath waves of clouds on the sky, moss covered scenery, the Flaksjøen lake below with old pastures and small mountain farms next to the shore of it and the wind wrapping my jacket tight around me.
Cabins and mountain farms at Flaksjøen lake.
Looking back towards Flaksjøhøgda and Flaksjøen.
Ahead is a small hill rising up and I instantly know that it is one of those places that I want to climb up to the top of. Someone must have heard my curiosity calling out, for the trail is going straight up to the top of the hill. A strange fascination this, seeing a path wind itself over a ridge. Not high, but high enough to give a good view both ahead and backwards.
The path going up and over a nameless hill.
I was quite wrong in my belief that the walk through the cabin area would be very bad, but I am even more wrong when it comes to my second fright. As it turns out, the paths through the lower area with woods and marshes are dry and firm to walk on. Going down through trees and vegetation, the long views ahead are lost, but it is a pleasant walk.
Looking over the direction ahead.
Having left my misgivings about today behind, I walk with my shoulders lowered, more relaxed. All the days leading up to the centre piece of the trail, Rondane, are now only numbers in the tally of kilometres. I really like how this trail is slowly building you up to the more imposing mountain scenery ahead, as the terrain of the Øyerfjellet and Ringebufjellet mountains are more easy going. With clearer weather than I have had, you would be walking with the peaks of Rondane coming closer in view for every step, tuning into the long hike as you go.
On lower areas, going through sparse woods.
At Venåssætra, a small cluster of old farms and cabins, I enter the outskirts of the second cabin area. With my fears already allayed, I feel even better when I find out that the cabins here lies more secluded and away from each other and the trail. You pass close by some, but they are inconspicuous, others you just discern behind the trees and some are quite nice with old stacked wooden fences around. The only negative is the workings of a new road that the path is temporarily following, but I belive the road will tune more into its surroundings when it is finished.
Secluded cabins.
Winding path through the woods.
The path is eventually leaving the cabin and then suddenly going steep down towards the Svartåa river, which is crossed on another wobbly suspension bridge at what is called Storfallet (which translated to something like 'The Big Drop'). A steep climb up again and then a walk across open scenery brings me to the old pastures and mountain farms at Eldåsæter.
Suspension bridge, at Storfallet.
View back after Storfallet.
I kind of envy those who are so lucky as to have a place like this as a cottage, although I believe it would also mean a lot of work to keep it maintained. With its old appearance, the now sombre weather, Eldåsæter looks like a place where history has been told. A beautiful place.
Lone trees in the mountain as I approach Eldåsæter.
At the Vesle Eldåa river below, a herd of cows are blocking the way for some women trying to get across on the bridge. They look rather shocked at me when I just walk past the cows. 'You are not afraid of cows?' they ask me. Maybe I am foolhardy, and although I have heard a couple of rumours of people being attacked by cows, I do not feel afraid around them. At least not in Norway, when I hiked the Pennine Way in England, I had a herd of cows running straight at me. Which might explain why I did not believed it to be a problem here, as these cows where quite calm when I approached them. Trying to help the women get across is harder, though, as drawing the attention of the cows towards me is difficult, but eventually they too get across and away from the cows.
Eldåsæter.
The Saga trail is then continuing next to the Vesle Eldåa river, before climbing upwards and finally heading into the Rondane national park, marked by a stone monument. Ahead of me is the distinct and almost pyramid-shaped mountains rising up towards the sky, as always looking like huge piles of rock (which they are). There are many that finds Rondane too rocky, but I find those round and undulating mountain fascinating, and I like the contrast to the more jagged peaks of Jotunheimen. Heavy clouds lies over those mountains now and that is where I am heading.
An old derelict cottage or shed, at Eldåsæter.
Old farm with barn at Eldåsæter.
It will take about five days to cross Rondane and enter the last mountain area on the trail, Dovre, but it is entirely possible to do it in less days (or more if wanted). Eldåbu is the first cabin after having entered Rondane, it is a self-serviced cabin with 18 beds that you reach by leaving the open scenery and walk through a birch forest (you have to leave the trail and go back again). This is also the last cabin where you can buy provisions at until the penultimate cabin, Reinheim. All the cabins between are staffed and they usually do not sell any provisions.
Cows barring the way on the bridge over the Vesle Eldåa river
Stone marker for the Rondane national park.
On my first hike in Rondane, a couple of years ago now, I spend the night here at Eldåbu. It was a pleasant stay, remembering the rustling of the trees outside. The wind is still rustling the trees today, as I sit outside preparing lunch on my stove after having bought the final provisions for my hike.
Into Rondane.
Eldåbu cabin.
The terrain becomes more and more undulating as I move further into Rondane. Apart from the morning, clouds has been dominant on the sky all day, but now they are slightly brekaing up again.
Rondane pyramids ahead.
A play of lights over the mountains.
As with the other days where I would camp, I had no particular target for where I would be walking to today. My plan before beginning the hike had been simple. I had used the time estimates on the webpage of the trail (saga.dnt.no) as basis, set a relative number of hours that I would walk each day. Given the estimated hours between the Veslefjellbua cabin and the Eldåbu cabin, I had calculated about 2 hours to walk after leaving the latter cabin. Give or take. Reaching the Fremre Vulutjønna lake, I am within the timeframe I have given myself and begin searching for spot to pitch my tent. The surface is all rocky underneath the thin layer of moss, so finding a place is not that easy.
Lone gnarled tree in Rondane.
At Fremre Vulutjønna, looking ahead towards the cabin at the end of the lake.
The lake is a nice and scenic spot and would be very peaceful had it not been for the increasingly annoying gnats. Leaving the tiny fiendish beasts to themselves, I look back upon this day. As all my fears was allayed, it had become a very nice and varied walk. It probably serves as a good transition from the easy going Øyerfjellet and Ringebufjellet mountains to the more rocky Rondane.
Evening at Fremre Vulutjønna.
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