Distance: 31.8km (47.0km).
If you walk from mountain cabin to mountain cabin, the next stage on the Saga trail will be from Hornsjø to Djupslia, but I have no intention of staying in a cabin tonight. The plan is to go to the Djupslia cabin, stock up on supplies and continue for an hour or so, determining where to stay as I go.
Morning at Hornsjø.
From Hornsjø to Djupslia, the walk will be between 900 and 1000 meters altitude. At first it will be partially marshy, but also through mountain forests, going past idyllic ponds. The rest of the walk to the cabin will be more open terrain, with a mixture of dry mountain ridges and bogs, passing by the pastures at Gullbringen, Vedemslia and Brettdalen. After Djupslia, the trail will climb up to Åstkyrkja, before going down and into an area of small creeks and wet surfaces, followed by the climb up into the Gopollen mountain.
Leaving Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell.
Koltjønnet.
The sun rising up from behind the hills in the east is waking me up in the morning, heralding a nice day weatherwise. Leaving Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell, the path is leading me over the small hill above the hotel. The walk is on a pleasant and dry-shod path through sparse trees and a heathery surrounding. Mostly dry until the small lake of Koltjønnet, but the path becomes more wet afterwards, especially through some of the large areas of marsh after the lake.
The Saga trail over Øyerfjellet passes by small ponds on its way.
I have been hiking in both Rondane and Dovre before, but this is a new mountain area to me, I have never been hiking here before, so each step around a corner brings with a sense of excitement. Not boasting the imposing peaks of those mountain ranges, this is still a lovely hike.
Going over wet and marshy areas.
At Snauskallen.
Climbing up the Sjøsæterfjellet mountain to the Snauskallen top (1030) and its highest top at 1049m, however, let me behold the peaks of Rondane rising up to the north of me, as well as the jagged line of peaks in Jotunheimen to the north-west. The trail does not go up to the top of these two mountains, though, but it is well worth the climb. The weather is nice, but not altogether clear. It is great to see those peaks waiting for me in the horizon. I had hoped for good weather, so that I could see those mountains increase in size as I get closer, but the forecast is not on my side.
View of Rondane from Sjøsæterfjellet.
Back on the trail, the path continues on the same mix of marshy surface, mountain woods and past small lakes, interspersed with the occasional boardwalk at times. This is a landscape to feel relaxed in. The small climbs there are, are situated around the pastures and cabins at Gullbringen and Vedemslia. Later on, I can also walk with the view of the Rondane in the line of sight.
At the top of Sjøsæterfjellet.
Passing through mountain forests on the way.
At the Brettdalsvatnet lake I find a large and solid wooden table with benches, a good spot for lunch, especially as my stomach has made some complaints. The saboteurs from the Norwegian Resistance Movement passed by here on their escape after having done the Norwegian heavy water sabotage (known in Norway as 'Tungtvannsaksjonen') of the Vemork power station in Rjukan.
Boardwalk across a small marsh.
From Brettdalsvatnet, the path climbs up past cabins and old mountain farms. The journey over to the Djupen lake, where the Djupslia mountain cabin is located, is an enjoyable walk. There is construction work down at the Djupen lake, a new cabin are beginning to take shape. To get to the DNT cabin at Djupslia, you have to leave the path for a couple of hundred meters. On the gate to the Djupslia mountain farm there is a signpost clearly informing hikers that it is not the DNT cabin, probably many have mistaken it for the DNT cabin.
Looking back over a marsh and boardwalk across it from Vedemslia.
Above old farm at Brettdalen, rain in the horizon.
While planning the hike of the Saga trail, one of the issues was food, a recurring theme when doing long distance trails. If staying at the cabins, food is no problem, you will find it there. However, if you plan to camp, there are not many food stores available on the trail. In fact, there are none, but as the trail passes by some self-serviced cabins, you can buy provisions there. In the later part of the trail, though, most of the cabins are staffed. And they seldom sell food supplies, usually only selling meals to the hikers staying at the cabins.
Towards Djupslia.
My original idea was then to do the trail in reverse, starting at the Snøheim cabin. By doing so, I could carry with me food for the first days, when the trail mostly passes by staffed cabins, and then buy supplies for the last part of the trail on the self-serviced cabins. In the end, I opted to start at Nordseter, and carrying with me the food I need for the last days, buying food the first days on the self-serviced cabins. I will also spend some nights at cabins, so I do not to worry about those days.
Djupen.
Djupslia cabin, the first DNT self-serviced cabin on the trail.
At Djupslia I buy dinner for tonight and some additional food for breakfast and lunch. I also meet two members of the local DNT association who are here to check up on the cabin. The walk has mostly been very solitary so far, so it is nice to meet someone else. It is a nice enough cabin, typical of the Norwegian Trekking Association, and it has canoes that you can use if you stay here.
View towards west from Åstkyrkja.
Above the cabin lies Åstkyrkja (1057m), a mountain with a curious rock formation at the top of it. It is a large rock that has a cairn stacked up on top of it, only that it is positioned at one end of the rock. With the cairn, the rock takes on the shape of a church, hence the name I surmise. 'Kyrkja' means church in Norwegian. In front of the rock there is also a stone altair and carvings into the rock and altair. I also meet a woman here who says her mother had a habit of taking down the crosses that was put up on the rock too, saying that there was enough crosses in the world, with no need for it here too (but the cross attached to the rock now is still there).
The Åstkyrkja ridge.
Åstkyrkja.
The light is wonderful when I arrive. Combined with the shape of the hill and the views in the horizon, I get a feeling of being back on Cross Fell in England, while doing the Pennine Way last year. I have to walk further out on the hill, to get a good view of the Goppoltjernet lake below and the Jotunheimen peaks in the distance. The definite highlight of the day.
The cross and 'church tower' of Åstkyrkja.
With the 'church' watching over my steps, I head towards the pastures of the Tauteren mountain farm. Time waits for no one as I walk next to a string of marshy areas, going in and out of forested sections, with the surface mostly dry. The hour hand is pointing towards the seven number on the clock face, having moved one notch on the scale since I left the Djupslia cabin. I begin to look at the map for possible places to camp. Arriving at the Tauteren farm, I have made my choice; heading for the Tautertjønnet lake further up in the Gopollfjellet mountain. A breed of hairy cows are grazing inside the fences of the pasture.
Forest path between Åstkyrkja and Gopollfjellet.
Looking back from above Tauteren.
The scenery is now for the first time on the trail taking on a more high mountains look, climbing above the tree line. A little bit away from the path, a herd of goats are clustered together, with many curious eyes following my steps. Clouds has assembled on the sky, and slowly are moss and heather taking over the vegetation. At the Tautertjønnet lake (1090m) I find my camp spot. A stony ground underneath the thin layer of moss makes it hard to get the tent plugs pitched, but I make it in the end. It is a good place, looking over the peaceful lake.
Heading up into the Gopollfjellet mountain.
At Gopollfjellet.
Although you would not really call it a proper sunset, it is nice watching the sun disappear behind Høgtinden while I prepare dinner. The clouds become lit up by the last light of the sun, eventually turning the color of the lake red by the reflection of the sky. It is a nice evening of the first full day on Saga, a good day on the trail. Tomorrow it is going to rain.
Sky after sunset above Høgtinden.
Evening light above Tautertjønnet.
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