Distance: 22.8km (188.2km).
Breakfast take longer than usual, but this is to be expected due to the rules regarding the pandemic. Maintain distance, keep in line, point out what you want to the staff, retrieve your desired food items, sit down at the table, find out that you forgot something, repeat procedure. Then after finishing first round, find out you are more hungry, repeat procedure. At least I managed to prepare a pack for lunch.
Rondvatnet.
The next stage of the Saga trail takes you from Rondvassbu to Dørålseter, but my plan was for walking one hour longer. Which would see me stranded in a place not suitable for camping at all, but more on that later. I usually does not like to bind my self to a plan or book things in advance, but as you have to book a bed at a cabin in advance due to the pandemic and I have no means of doing that while underway, I had to make as much a flexible plan I could. This is the result.
Rondvassbu underneath the pyramids of Rondane.
Rondvatnet and Rondane.
For the next days, I will more or less follow the same route as I walked the first time I hiked through Rondane some years ago, only in reverse. I meet Stig upon departure, ready to go up to the castle. There is barely a cloud on the sky, Rondvatnet is almost dead calm with the scenery equally visible in both air and water. Everything is in order for another great day.
Up towards Rondhalsen with Svarthammaren above.
View of Rondslottet, Vinjeronden and Storronden.
The path to Dørålseter goes around the Rondvatnet lake over Rondhalsen before going steeply down to the Rondvassdalen valley north of Rondvatnet. Under the eyes of Digerronden the trail goes through the Bergedalen valley down to Dørålen where the landscape is opening up and becomes more vegetated before it reaches the private cabins at Dørålseter.
The path to Veslesmeden, with Storesmeden to the left.
Seeing the weather as it is, I see the chance to put Veslesmeden on the itinerary for today. This is the lowest of the ten peaks above 2000m in Rondane and a somewhat easy climb from Rondvassbu, which makes it a popular target for people going on a hike with their kids. For those in need of a bigger challenge, extending the climb to Storesmeden or further to Trolltinden could be an option. After climbing up Rondhalsen with nice views of Rondvatnet and the pyramid piles of rocks behind, I find a place to 'hide' my backpack before I start the climb up to the little blacksmith.
Veslesmeden summit, Storesmeden behind.
View from the summit of Veslesmeden, Digerronden to the right.
The first ascent is quite steep, but easygoing, soon leading you up into the barren kingdom of rocks again. There is a flat plateau to traverse where the wind gets a good grip on you before the inclination increases again. The final part up to the summit is the steepest part, but it looks worse from afar than it is.
At Veslesmeden, with Digerronden, Høgronden and Rondslottet behind.
Veslesmeden only stands one meter lower than its big brother Storesmeden, at 2015m. It might be counted as an easy climb, but the views does not stand back for other peaks deemed harder to climb. This is the better place to take in the view of the most majestic peaks of Rondane, with Digerronden, Høgronden, Rondslottet and Storronden lining up across the valley.
At the top of Rondhalsen, looking out over Rondvassdalen. Dørålglupen directly ahead and Digerronden to the right.
Digerronden.
After the steep descent from Rondhalsen, which might appear less steep than it is if you come from the opposite direction, the walk is fairly even in terms of inclinations. Walking through the Rondvassdalen valley, I see a cloud form above the summit of Digerronden. It does not really get big, but it reminds me of the cloud forming above Tahtalı Dağı (Mount Olympos) in Turkey when I hiked the Lycian Way back in 2015. The cloud seemed to appear out of nothing, only to slowly expand outwards until it engulfed the mountain. Digerronden seems to escape that fate.
Bergedalstjønnin and Digerronden.
Bergedalstjønnin.
I have my lunch next to the Bergedalstjønnin lakes. A recommended scenic beautyspot between Rondvassbu and Dørålseter, complete with seating and table arrangements in stones.
Leaving Rondslottet behind.
Next to the path, the Bergedalsbekken river is burrowing down into the ground, forming a sort of rocky and grey canyon. The last part before Dørålseter appear like a lunar landscape, cut short by another canyon formed by a river. Down in the canyon the walk goes through a mountain birch forest until it ascends to meet the cabins at Dørålseter (upper and lower).
Above Bergedalsbekken river.
Burrowing river.
In the nice afternoon weather, I take a longer break at the Øvre Dørålseter cabin, confessing to have a few cold beers while overlooking the pyramids of Rondane. This is a private cabin that can accommodate up to 100 persons, there is another private cabin here as well, Nedre Dørålseter that can accommodate 25 persons.
Through birch woods before Dørålseter.
While my plan was to walk another hour after Dørålseter, it is not entirely feasible. Walking one hour after having left the cabin will find you stranded in the middle of Dørålglupen, a famous crevice also known as 'Porten til Rondane' (the Gate to Rondane). There will be no places to pitch my tent there, the cleft consisting of no other than rocky scree surrounded by steep mountain sides. I either have to camp before the crevice or walk all the way through it. The evening is still young, I decide to walk through and head for the Haverdalsåe river further ahead, it will be a late evening today.
A lamp with a view, at Øvre Dørålseter.
Evening light descends over Rondane as I venture into the shadow of Dørålsglupen. Rocks and stones lies piled at the bottom of the crevice. No one there but me. It is all quiet, except for the sound of running water hidden underneath the stones. No regret in deciding to go through late, it is an exciting walk.
Above Dørålseter with view of Rondane.
Dørålglupen.
On the other side, the view is opening up to a sky becoming increasingly warmer in hue. The sun is about to set and I hope to get a view of it before it disappear behind the mountain, but the side to my left (and west) is constantly blocking the view. I almost reach it, but I am too late. The sunset is still lingering in the clouds above as I head down towards the Haverdalsåe river.
Into the crevice. Rocks, stones and Rondane.
Porten til Rondane, the Gate to Rondane.
Crossing over the river at a wooden bridge with very steep stairs leading up to the bridge itself. I find a spot for my tent nearby, tucked in on one of the few available spaces. The clock was almost ten in the evening when I arrived, leading to a short end of the day, sitting outside preparing and eating my dinner before getting into my tent for the night.
Out of the crevice, Haverdalen below.
Descent to Haverdalen.
The highlights of today was undoubtedly Veslesmeden and Dørålglupen. Another day feeling at ease with the flow of the trail. Not the longest day in distance, but definitely the longest day on this trail in terms of walking time, which is felt by how little time I spend in the tent before I get the need to fall asleep.
Evening light, Haverdalsåe river.
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