Saga // day 1 // Nordseter - Hornsjø

Saga, day 1.
Distance: 15.2km (15.2km).

Saga is a long distance trail in Norway going from Lillehammer (Nordseter) to one of the most iconic mountains in Norway, Snøhetta, ending at the cabin below the summit, Snøheim. The trail is about 220km long, passing over the Øyerfjellet, Ringebufjellet, Rondane and Dovre mountain ranges on its course. Rondane and Dovre is two of the most iconic and scenic mountain ranges in Norway. It is a hike that will take you from its humble beginning at Nordseter to the mountain cathedral at its end at Snøhetta, the highest mountain in Norway outside Jotunheimen.

Near the start of the Saga trail at Nordseter, a picture of how it looked there before.

The Saga trail does not follow its own set of waymarks, instead you have to know which path the trail takes, but on most of its course it will follow the red T waymarks used by the Norwegian Trekking Assocation, DNT (Den Norske Turistforeningen). It is also engineered so that you can end its stage at a place to stay, mostly being DNT's own mountain cabins. Which means there is a sort of a commercial interest in it, but it does make it possible to do the trail for those not wanting to sleep in a tent.

Looking back with a view of the Nevelfjell mountain in the back.

On the way on the first day on Saga, Raudtjern below.

To get to the trailhead, I take a train to Lillehammer and from there a bus up to the cabin area of Nordseter. As I will spend some time getting to the trailhead, I will have a short walk ahead of me on the first day, although I have planned to start immediately upon arrival. The weather forecast for this day was pretty much abysmal, with a 22mm precipitation, so I bailed out and opted to stay at the Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell on the first night.

Skjerketjern lake.

Over the heath towards Nysætra.

Walking out of the bus, I am met by a chill and gusty wind with rain in it, but not nearly as much rain as forecasted. The start of the Saga trail is quite inconspicuous, with no signposts informing where the trail begins from. There is only a sign with Hornsjøen on it, but I know that that is where I am heading.

Cabin at Nysætra.

From Nordseter, the landscape is that of the area a little below the treeline. Mostly forest in the beginning, but soon opening up to a landscape with more space between the trees, giving way to heather and bushes. On the first day, I will never get higher up than about 989m (at Mellsjøhøgda), but these lower areas will provide a gentle approach to the higher mountains later on. Despite the grey weather and the somewhat limited views, it is a nice start of my hike. With the grey lending an atmospheric tune to the surroundings.

Scenery from the lower lying mountains of Øyerfjellet.

Blustery over the Mellsjøen lake.

Although I did not became aware of it until I arrived at my destination for the day, I took the wrong route after Nysætra. Wrongfully marked as Saga on my papermap, I follow the gravel road going around the Mellsjøen lake, but the actual route is going towards the Reinsvatnet lake and Kriksfjellet mountain. However, when I compare the two routes on my map, I believe the route I went would be more scenic. With the only exception being the possibility to climb up to the summit of Kriksfjellet at 1052m.

Boathouses at Mellsjøen.

The abysmal rain precipitation never materialized. There was rain at times of course, but it only felt like it was much due to the strong winds. Especially on the eastern side of the Mellsjøen lake, where I got my jacket tightly wrapped around me. Set between the gusts of rain was also periods of blue sky and sun.

View from the top of Mellsjøhøgda over Mellsjøen lake towards Sjusjøen.

Looking back from Mellsjøhøgda.

Being at the start of the trail, the route also passes by several cabin areas. Thankfully they never feel too vulgar and imposing. And they are mostly centered around Nordseter in the beginning, Nysætra and the Mellsjøen lake.

Rainbow from Mellsjøhøgda, Snultra and the Agntjernet lake below.

The highlight of the walk came at the top of Mellsjøhøgda. Where you can get a nice view of every direction, but the view with the rainbow in the north took the prize.

Boardwalk towards Snultra.

Agntjernet lake.

With the exception of the gravel track from Nysætra and around Mellsjøen, the walking has been on footpaths. The paths has been dry and good to walk on, but it changed on the final part towards Hornsjøen. After the Matfartjernet lake, the path turned boggy and wet at times. Old and new looking mountain farms and cabins meets me when I arrive at the area around the Hornsjøen lake. It is a quiet atmosphere lying around the place.

Leaving Snultra.

Matfartjernet lake.

Upon arrival, Hornsjø Høyfjellshotell is giving me something of a The Shining feeling, or rather an Overlook Hotel feeling. At first, the place appear deserted, but then I spot someone partially hidden from sight smoking. It is is quite big, but now nearly empty, being only 10 guests here. It boasts a large, round and (of course) empty dance floor. The hotel also appear to be worn and tired. To top it all, the owner is apparently living at a luxury address in Mexico and is being wanted by the Danish tax authorities (this is information that I however just overheard from other guests). I kind of love it.

A derelict farm building above the Hornsjøen lake.

The hotel is also having a bunkhouse with a cheaper price than its normal rooms, promoted by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), so I had booked a bed there. Due to the pandemic the bunkhouse is closed, however, so they had upgraded my booking to a single room instead. After dinner, I go out for a walk as the sun is setting. It has all but cleared up now, and there is nice light over the mountains.

Hornsjøen lake.

Evening light over Koltjønnet lake.

A short walk was the beginning of my adventure on the Saga trail, but it was a pleasant walk through the lower lying Øyerfjellet mountains. Mixed weather today, but I was spared the heavy rainfall the forecast had promised me. Later on the more majestic peaks of Rondane will rise in the horizon as I get closer, and so this day was a perfect way to ease into the trail.

Moon over Hornsjø.

Tautertjønnet // day 2 >>