Distance: 13.0km (142.7km).
This was the only day posing any problems while planning for the hike. Not due to any technical issues regarding the route, but more in terms of how far I would go. From the Eldåbu cabin, the normal route would be going past the Bjørnhollia cabin and then climbing over the Rondslottet peak before arriving at the Rondvassbu cabin. In the estimates given by DNT this would be a walk of about 13 to 16 hours, which might be doable, but not what I am looking for (despite having cut off some hours by walking further from Eldåbu yesterday). There exist an easier route, bypassing Rondslottet and going through the Illmanndalen valley instead, but that is not really what I want (I have not climbed Rondslottet before and really much would like to do it). Unless the weather will be extremely bad. I was facing a prospect of a too short day.
Cabin at Fremre Vulutjonna.
The solution should however give itself. At the end of this day I would be in the heart of Rondane and a shorter day could leave time to climb one of the iconic peaks in the area. The only question was, which one?
Fremre Vulutjønna.
Vulubua and shed.
From my campsite at Fremre Vulutønna, the trail will continue further along the lake, passing by some cabins at the end of it. Then it will head into the Steindalen valley past the Indre Vulutjønna lake, keep its ground until it will start to descent towards the staffed Bjørnhollia cabin. The morning weather bears little promises of a sunny day, clouds and veils are keeping their place above me.
Entering the Steindalen valley with the Indre Vulutjønna lake.
Stone boatshed at Indre Vulutjønna.
A lone fisherman is standing further ahead by the lake, his fishing pole doing a slow dance in the air. Near the end of the lake, I catch up with him, striking up a few words. He has not got that lucky today, but had catched a few chars. I like fishing, but if I were to bring a fishing pole, I believe my hike would take an increasingly longer time. Although catching a fish and eating it at the end of a day would be a treat good as any.
Indre Vulutjønna.
The path out of the Steindalen valley.
Between the Fremre Vulutjønna and Indre Vulutjønna lakes there are two small cabins. Last time I hiked past here, one of the two cabins was open and could be used to spend the night in, for a modest price. All based on trust. Now there is a note hanging on the door saying that the cabin is locked and that you have to book and pay in advance to use it. All due to too many people using it and not paying for their stay. A sad facts of life. There is a family in one of the cabins, having spent a few nights there, climbing up to the peaks above and fishing in the lakes.
View of Illmanndalen.
Path towards Bjørnhollia.
Although not being exactly narrow, Steindalen valley do feels narrow after walking for some time through open landscapes, with round peaks rising up on both sides of it. And perched in the middle of the valley is the Indre Vulutjønna lake. A small boatshed of stone and wood is located next to the water. It is a lovely little valley.
Descent towards Bjørnhollia.
Dark clouds are coming in from the west and on the walk out of the valley, a short-lived rain shower is plummeting down. Ahead the top of the pyramids of Rondane are enclosed in clouds. The path is climbing up and then down again above the Skjerdalen valley. Below lies the Bjørnhollia cabin, which is reached after walking down into a mountain birch woods, crossing a river on a bridge before climbing up through woods.
Bjørnhollia underneath Veslsvulten.
Bjørnhollia is a staffed cabin with 90 beds and one of the coziest ones in Rondane. Arriving at the cabin I cannot help remember the last time I was here, when a crow flew in through the door while I was standing at the reception. The crow landed on top of my head, causing the girl at the reception to cry out. I tried to keep my calm, stood still and eventually the crow flew on. Of course it was still inside, so I had to help it get out. No crow are greeting me this time.
Approaching Bjørnhollia crossing over a bridge.
Inside the Bjørnhollia cabin, the common room.
No sun is shining and seeing no need to haste, I take a longer break at the cabin. Lunch is eaten at the cabin, having both a chop sandwich and a spice cake. And with the opportunity, I let myself have a cold beer too. Prior to arriving at Bjørnhollia I had thought of climbing up the nearby Musvolkampen, but that idea was fueled by the rain. Now, after studying the maps and seeing that I have lots of time left of the day (remember, this would be a short day when it comes to progress on the Saga trail), I plan to do what I should have planned all along.
Bjørnhollia.
Looking back at Musvolkampen.
From Bjørnhollia, there are two options in terms of getting to the next cabin on the trail, Rondvassbu. One is walking lower down through the Illmanndalen valley, which is where I went the last time I hiked through Rondane. The main route is however going north of the cabin, then going through the Langglupdalen valley, before it climbs over the iconic Rondslottet (2178m) on its way. In very bad weather, the Illmanndalen route should be taken, but the forecast is good for the upcoming days. Going over Rondslottet is estimated to be a walk of about 8 to 10 hours, while through Illmanndalen only 4 hours.
Into the Langglupdalen valley, the summit of Høgronden peering up in the middle of the picture.
As I begin my hike into the heart of Rondane, let us talk a little bit about this mountain range. Outside of the Jotunheimen mountains and the Snøhetta peak, Rondane is the area with the highest mountains in Norway, with ten peaks that is above 2000 meters (Rondslottet, Storronden, Høgronden, Midtronden Vest, Vinjeronden, Midtronden Øst, Trolltinden, Storsmeden, Digerronden, Veslesmeden). Rondslottet is the highest peak at 2178m. The whole mountain area is located within the Rondane national park, which was the first designated national park in Norway, designated in 1962.
Høgronden and the clearly visible path up to it from the Langglupdalen valley.
From Bjørnhollia, the trail is following a gravel track at first, before leaving it on a path that climbs up and around the Veslsvulten peak. Going around a bend, I can spot the Høgronden peak rising up ahead. That is where I am heading today, the third highest peak in the area at 2115m. The path is going slightly upwards, before it starts an undulating descent towards the Langglupbekken river perched in the middle of the Langglupdalen valley. Looking further I can see the obstacle of tomorrow rising, Rondslottet.
Clouds grazing the top of Rondslottet.
Where the path crosses the Langglupbekken river on a bridge, I find my camp spot for the night. It is a wonderful spot, with small waterfalls and cascades and layered rocks next to the hurtling water. I pitch my tent, arrange everything inside and then prepare for the climb to Høgronden.
Bridge over Langglupbekken.
A short walk in terms of distance today, but for all its shortcomings, it was a nice hike.
Waterfall at Langglupbekken.
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