Distance: 12.5km (254.3km).
The final day on the Saga trail rises, and to a grey and gloomy day, the bleak scenery outside a stark contrast to the radiant weather of the last days. The twenty-fourth highest peak in Norway and the highest outside of the Jotunheimen mountain range, Snøhetta, is the endpoint of the trail and the target of this stage. Although parts of the normal route up to the summit is steep, it is not considered a very difficult climb, but it involves a lot of walking on a hard rocky surface. The last part of the trail, down to the Snøheim cabin could be called an epilogue.
Stroplsjødalen valley in the morning.
If the weather is too inclement, climbing up to the summit of Snøhetta could be avoided by taking the direct route from Reinheim to Snøheim.
Dark and rainy clouds drifts in over Stroplsjødalen.
And the weather does feel inclement at the beginning after having left the warm confines of the cabin. To put extra weight on that, the rain does not begin before after starting the climb up from the cabin. I let out a small disgruntled sigh, not so much due to the cold and gusty weather, but due to the lost opportunity for views from the summit.
Summit of Snøhetta is hidden in the clouds.
Hiking with an umbrella.
The world above disappears in the grey monochrome clouds. In front of me, I can see the family of five that also stayed at the cabin walking towards the same goal. They are from Oppdal and are doing some days hiking in the area.
Windows in the clouds.
Other people are here also. I catch up with an older couple from France, who looks a little bewildered in the blustery weather. Truth be told, I have always wondered why people bring umbrellas when hiking in the mountains. Especially on windy days like this, but one of these two do. Partly why I write this is that I would like to hear from others the reasoning for this. They are looking for the path to the Snøheim cabin, but have well passed past that junction and so I have to steer them away from climbing up towards the summit of Snøhetta.
A foggy ascent up Snøhetta.
The mountains around exposed by a gap in the clouds.
From this side, the climb up goes on a long slope consisting of nothing but large rocks strewn about. Now merging almost seamlessly into the grey colours of the sky. The path, which is not really visible in itself, is marked with the usual red T’s. If the T’s cannot be spotted, there are some metal rods or poles that can be used to guide you up to the summit.
Downward look.
Is it just stubbornness that keeps me walking on upwards in the fog covering the mountain?
A dramatic and wonderful view from the climb up Snøhetta.
The fog changes in thickness. Sometimes it sticks to me like moths to a lamp, other times it leaves large spaces to see several meters ahead. Then all of the sudden there is a gap opening up and I get a view of the surrounding area to the north. Far far away there is a patch of blue sky visible, but between that blue hope and me there are hordes of clouds marching. The gap closes in and I am back in the black and white world, happy to have got some views from Snøhetta at least.
The Snøhetta summit, weather opening up as I approach.
Steadfastly upwards, rocks upon rocks, and then I can discern the characteristic silhouette of the large pipe-like structure on top of Snøhetta appearing out of the clouds above me.
View from the summit of Snøhetta, dark rain clouds in the direction of Rondane.
When I arrive at the summit, the clouds are opening up, blue sky is appearing above me and views are unfolding. And it is magical. I am tempted to stop my tale here. Let this be the final word. For it is a marvellous end to the trail. Totally unexpected.
Looking down towards Stroplsjødalen and Reinheim.
In almost every direction the views are dramatic, appearing like layers behind layers. Drifting clouds and visible rain showers are flowing over the surrounding landscape. The moment goes far beyond my expectations and more than equals the experience of being here on a clear and sunny day. The pyramids of Rondane are however mostly hidden from sight by the very dark rain clouds in that direction.
At the summit of Snøhetta.
I meet a young couple at the summit who beats me when it comes to brewing some coffee, giving me a cup of steaming hot and good coffee while I wait for my lunch. Shortly after they have left to catch the shuttle bus from Snøheim, the family from Oppdal arrives. Using the side of the pipe-like structure as shelter from the wind, I sit down with them while they are having their lunch. Talking about future plans I tell them about my plan to walk the pilgrim route to Nidaros, Gudbrandsdalsleden, later this year. They then tell me that they are practically living next to the where the route goes through Oppdal and that I am welcome to say hello when I walk by. I am looking forward to it.
When I leave, the summit is back in the fog again.
Things get stranger when I see fit to start going down again, the Oppdal family already begun walking down. As soon as I put my backpack back on and start walking, the clouds closes in again and the world returns to its monochrome state. Amazing. I cannot believe the stroke of luck I got.
Descending down underneath the clouds.
Rain over Dovre and Hjerkinn.
Down at the junction where my path goes to the Snøheim cabin, I say farewell to the family as they will head back to the Reinheim cabin. At this point, we have come down underneath the clouds and Dovre in all is dramatic glory is open to us again.
Istjørni.
I pay heed not to slip on the stones, looking back at another memory from my last hike here. On that day, I went down from Snøhetta on the path leading to the Åmotdalshytta cabin. As I was on my way down, an emergency helicopter was landing on the helipad at the summit and I stopped to look up, curious to what may have happened. When I started to continue walking again, I made a stupid mistake. I turned around and started walking in the same movement, causing the rock slate I was standing on to tip over. I fell flat on the hard rocky surface, but came quite unscathed from it with only a few bruises. Rather ironically too, as it was all due to an emergency helicopter.
The remains of the Gamle Reinheim cabin.
Rondane in sight in the background.
Located at the foot of the mountain you find the remains of the Gamle Reinheim cabin (only named Reinheim back then, but Gamle is now added to the name, meaning old). This was built in 1888 by Johan Fredrik Hjerkinn before it was acquired by the Norwegian Trekking Association. It was eventually demolished, later being replaced by the cabin now named Reinheim (where I slept this night) and the Snøheim cabin.
Approaching Snøheim and the end of the Saga trail.
I do not miss a blue sky when walking underneath such a wonderfully dramatic and atmospheric sky as this. In the distance, besieged by rain, I can see the peaks of Rondane. The metal rods are pointing in an almost direct line towards Snøheim. A journey that has taken me from verdant lower mountains to high and barren pyramids of rocks, on old ways where pilgrims has trod their way in ages, past grazing spots of the thick coated musk ox to the summit of Snøhetta is coming to its end.
Snøheim.
The Snøheim cabin lies at the end of the Saga trail, sleeps about 80 people and is easiest reached by taking a shuttle bus from Hjerkinn. I get my modest room, take the mandatory shower to be presentable to people again and then spend the afternoon and evening resting, while looking back at eleven days that has brought me much joy. The dinner is good. The clouds lifts and Snøhetta is suddenly visible next to the sun on its way down.
Inside Snøheim.
Snøhetta from Snøheim.
The next morning, Snøhetta is veiled behind a thin layer of clouds and the arc of a rainbow. I have my breakfast, pack my belongings and get on the shuttle bus back to Hjerkinn, leaving Snøhetta and the Saga trail behind. At Hjerkinn I have to wait a little for my train home arrives. End of Saga.
Morning after, Snøhetta hidden behind a veil of clouds and a rainbow.
For both normal hikers and long distance trail walkers, the Saga trail is a great hike for those wanting to experience some of the wonderful mountain scenery in Norway. I enjoyed that it was a varied hike and not only staying up in high and barren mountain scenery, although that is normally what I enjoys the most. And the feeling of gradually getting closer, gradually building up to the more spectacular peaks ahead, like Rondane and Snøhetta, made the hike something akin to a modern mountain pilgrimage. Snøhetta the cathedral in the horizon. A natural progression, and not just a walk from point a to point b. Which I felt that the Massiv trail was more like, despite providing no less in terms of great nature. Time to make a Saga of your own.
Snøheim, and the end of the Saga trai.
<< Reinheim // day 10
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