Distance: 24.3km (212.5km).
I am laying both days and mountains behind me, while days and mountains still remains ahead of me, but the end of the trail is inevitable closer. The ninth day and I will head into the Dovrefjell mountain range, being the last area the Saga trail is passing through. As yesterday, how far I will go is uncertain. The light outside my tent reveals another day with lovely weather.
Walk next to the Haverdalsåe river in the morning.
From my campsite at Haverdalsåe, the path follows the Haverdalen valley westwards for a short while, with the surface soon turning wet and slightly boggy underfoot. I must confess that I remember little from this area when I hiked through here years ago. While not as majestic as the center of Rondane, the walk is pleasant, soon going through sparse mountain birch.
A view back from above Haverdalen valley.
Leading upwards on the eastern side of Gravhøe, the landscape opens up. While still being mountains, they are leveling out, getting rounder in the edges. The more imposing peaks of Rondane are yet obscured from the view by Stygghøin, which is where the Dørålglupen crevice is cutting through. Even so, the views are inviting to the eyes.
Path below Gravhøe, Snøhetta is visible in the background.
Grimsdalen and the Grimsdalshytta cabin in sight.
Over Gravhøe the path is a meandering line pointing towards Snøhetta in the horizon. Given that I had to pre-book the cabins I want to stay at, I know that I will be there the day after tomorrow. With more undulating and rolling hills to dwell my eyes on, I reflect some on the Saga trail so far. Now I feel a little bit back to the setting before Rondane, with gentler mountains leading up to the higher peaks. In this case, it seems like a short respite between the harder climbs.
Winding path through a birch forest on the way to Grimsdalshytta.
Grimsdalen is an idyllic and one of the longest pasture valleys in Norway. Also a popular valley to go biking in. It is in this valley that you find the Grimsdalshytta cabin, another staffed cabin and if you follow the Saga trail going from cabin to cabin, the endpoint of a shorter day from one of the cabins at Dørålseter (unless you go all in for a really long day from Rondvassbu).
Grimsdalshytta.
Grimsdalen valley with old mountain farms and pastures.
The descent to Grimsdalen goes through another birch forest, pleasantly lit by the sunlight. The Grimse river is crossed by a bridge, leading onto a camping site with a mix of cows and caravans. Between newer cabins, signs of old mountains farms are visible. In the area there are also several catch pits located.
Walking above the Tverråe river from Grimsdalshytta.
Grimsdalshytta cabin sleeps 54 people. I see the great weather and good location as a good excuse for a longer break. The cold sip of a juicy beer. The sour cream taste of a vaffle. The healthy bite of a sandwich. The not so healthy energy of a coke. Then grimacing a little due to the bad weather forecast for the last day. If only the spell of good weather could last one day longer.
Tverråe meandering towards the Fallfossen waterfall.
View back towards Grimsdalen from above Tverråe, one lonely Rondane peak is peeking out behind.
After the Grimsdalshytta cabin the trail finally leaves Rondane and heads into the Dovrefjell mountains. It does so by climbing up alongside the Tverråe river, emerging out on a rolling mountain plateau before heading down towards the area around Hjerkinn. Somewhere on that other side I expect to find myself a camping space for the night.
Upwards path with Pikhetta in the distance.
Sunrays over Kattuglehøe.
The walk up is 'slow' at start, before I find it becoming increasingly interesting as the Tverråe river sinks further into the landscape next to me. The path is winding upwards next to the slopes leading down to the river I can hear well from my position. In the short distance, the valley below closes in where the Fallfossen waterfall is seen. Then I manage to drop my camera to the ground, but thankfully it seems to have escaped any injury and looks fine.
Rondane peeking up behind me.
The plateau above appear and at last I can get a view of the pyramids of Rondane again, maybe for the last time (except from the summit of Snøhetta). A couple of hikers are approaching, on their way to Grimsdalshytta, all in a good mood thanks to the scenery. Clouds have taken a hike on the sky, providing some interesting light play over Kattuglehøe.
Steinbuehøe with its cairns and Snøhetta behind.
When I hiked here years ago, the path was going east of Steinbuhøe, but now it has been changed to go on the west side. The reason for the rerouting is the reindeer herds in the area. I remember there was several cairns erected on the highest point, so I want to see those again. They still stand there, pillars of stones overlooking Snøhetta.
A small hut below Steinbuehøe.
A rolling scenery of moss, lichen and heather.
I could have pushed on further today, but not far away from Hageseter I spot a nice place to camp. And as doing another long day today would mean a lot shorter day tomorrow, I feel fine leaving my feet to rest. From my campsite, I overlook the valley leading up towards Hjerkinn. The cabins around Hageseter is clearly visible below.
View of Hjerkinn.
Maybe the campsite was not that good after all, the air is crawling with mosquitos.
Sun through a tree next to my campsite.
The warm colours of the sunset are coming to my rescue, taking away the attention from those tiny bloodsuckers. It is a nice ending to a day containing less excitement than the previous days on Saga. There were no summits to climb today, no towering mountains, just a pleasant walk through a more undulating plateau.
Coffee at sunset.
With the sun away on its journey to shine on another place on this earth, I seek the confines of my tent. The last one on this hike. Tomorrow I will head for the Reinheim cabin, and with that a foretaste of the pilgrimage I intend to do later this year. The trail shares the path with Gudbrandsleden, the pilgrim route to Nidaros.
Warm sunset colours above Dovre.
A saga coming to an end, but it has been a good saga.
My campsite above Gautåsætre.
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