Distance: 29.3km (241.8km).
A nice, chill morning and no mosquitos, except for a few uninterested morning-risers. A soft light lies over Dovre, from where the pilgrims on their way to Trondheim are passing through, more on that later, but I wonder if I will meet or see anyone today. The river next by is softly making itself heard, I fill up from its water and prepares breakfast. Then getting away passing by a stone monument.
Waterfall in the Gautåe river.
I have nearly finished this stage on the Saga trail, not my stage, but the usual stage. From Grimsdalshytta, the trail is going over to Hageseter and the cabin and campsite there, but for me that is just a short walk down. I could see the buildings and the cars passing by from my campsite. So most of today will be on the penultimate stage of Saga, going to the Reinheim cabin in the kingdom of the musk ox.
Musk ox head at Hageseter, which can be viewed at closed range and still be safe.
I do hope to spot some of these majestic animals, but hopefully not too close to me.
The pilgrim path to Nidaros going through the Hjerkinn area.
Although having had my morning coffee, I find time to indulge myself in a cup of coffee at Hageseter. This is a private cabin and campsite, with a capacity of 70 beds. From here, the route does not follow the path marked with the usual red T and I have to admit that it caused me a little bit of headache. The thing is that the T-marked path only goes towards the train station at Hjerkinn, but that is not my way. Instead, the route I am supposed to take, follows the pilgrim path to Nidaros, marked with its own set of waymarks (the cross of St. Olav inside the Norwegian icon for a landmark or sight).
At Vesle Hjerkinn.
Bridge over the Folla river.
Following the cross of St. Olav, I walk through a pleasant culture landscape dominated by low and sparse mountain trees. At Vesle Hjerkinn, I can look at the remains of the first facilitated accommodation for wayfarers over the Dovrefjell mountains, dating back to the medieval ages. Here archaeologists found the biggest discovery of old coins that has been found in Norwegian mountains. One of the old dwellings has been partially reconstructed. After the Black Death in 1349, the place was deserted.
Eysteinkyrkja at Hjerkinn.
Crossing over the Folla river, marshland takes over the scenery, before a gravel track leads me and the pilgrims (although there are none to be seen) towards the Eysteinkyrkja church and Hjerkinn Fjellstue that provides accommodation. Eysteinkyrkja was built as a pilgrimage church and the design inspired by the mountain formations around Snøhetta. Usually there is a local pilgrim office here, but both church and office are closed when I arrive. The church also boasts a nice view over the Hjerkinn and Dovre area.
Looking back at the area around Hjerkinn.
Den Gamle Kongevegen leading upwards Hjerkinnhøe.
Hjerkinn Fjellstue is situated close by, an alternative place to stay if you do not stay at Hageseter (for those staying at paid accommodation), sleeping 70 people. There are also accommodation to be found near the train station, about 2km away.
Rondane in view far away.
The hike over Hjerkinnshøe is one of the highlights and iconic parts of the pilgrim path through Dovrefjell. Over this mountain, both trails are following ‘Den Gamle Kongevegen’, which is the old king’s road. There have been roads over these mountains dating back many years, mostly accounting for nothing more than footpaths or bridleways, but at the beginning of the 18th century the king’s road was constructed. Being a king’s road meant it was a public road, but heavy burdens was laid on the farmers in terms of maintenance duty.
At Hjerkinnhøe, the stone marker says it is 208km to Trondheim.
Descent from Hjerkinnhøe.
Being a ‘road’, the path is wide, going upwards to increasing views of the area around Hjerkinn. Next to the road, I find both the waymarks for the pilgrim path and the blue crown waymark for the king’s road. The path reaches its highest point at just above 1200m, where a stone marker tells me that there are 208km to Nidaros (Trondheim), but that is for the pilgrims. I am not going that far on this walk. On both sides of the road, there are paths leading up to nearby summits, but unsure of my time, I leave them for later (remember, I will pass by here later in the year when I will be doing the pilgrimage myself).
The end of the Saga trail in view, the Snøhetta massif (the summit of Snøhetta is to the right).
The walk down is just as nice, and I cannot help myself from stealing glances at the towering Snøhetta to the west. At the bottom, the pilgrim route and Saga trails split paths, the pilgrims continuing towards Kongsvold and Trondheim, and me towards Grønbakken, Stroplsjødalen valley, the Reinheim cabin and the possibility of musk ox encounters.
At Grønbakken.
Grønbakken once offered accommodation and was also a holiday home for the railway's office staff. There is also a smithy here in good conditions, built in 1942 when there was road construction work in the area. It is a little bit strange that the route to the Reinheim cabin is taking this path up through the Stroplsjødalen valley, as the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) clearly wants the hikers to take the route from Kongsvold instead. On this route, the waymarks are faded and not maintained, but the path is clear enough. Probably they feel that the stage from Hjerkinn to Reinheim will be too long if the hikers have to go by Kongsvold. The reasoning for letting this path disappear is probably to give the musk ox some more free space (they do have a very small intimate limit).
Lunch spot next to the Kaldvella river.
Musk ox eyeing me from where it is grazing.
Time has made its usual way and if I have not paid any attention to it, my stomach has. Next to the flowing water of the Kaldvella river, I find a suitable place for lunch. Sitting down, I unlock a memory from my previous visit here. When I had my lunch then, further up the valley, I remember seeing a man with his dog walking up a ridge above me. Not long after, I could see them both retreating quickly down again. Puzzled, I saw the reason moments after. A musk ox family came sauntering down the same way.
In the Stroplsjødalen valley.
Moving on, I have my musk ox encounter. At a safe distance, I spot a solitary ox. When it becomes aware of me, it eyes me constantly. Such a beautiful animal, so I stand there eyeing it constantly too for a while. However, in a staring contest, I would not stand a chance I guess. Later, I spot other musk ox moving, but far away from me.
Walking towards Snøhetta.
Looking up at Snøhetta.
The hike up to Reinheim is mostly easygoing, but it comes with a sting at the end. It has been a long day and the additional height gain is making itself felt. On the positive side, I get a good view of Snøhetta with its installations on top and the Reinheim cabin below. Clouds are dramatically making its way on the sky, a premonition of the coming weather.
Rays above Snøhetta.
Reinheim is a self-served cabin that sleeps 36 people and the cabin guard is actually the same person as the last time I was here, he seems to remember me. For unknown reasons, I have not bathed so far this year, but now is a good time. I have gone some days without showering, and the water of the Stropla river is beckoning. Except that it is really really cold. However, the cold touch of the water is soon forgotten, as the cabin is well heated and it is a good feeling to loose the grime on my body.
Mountains looming above the Stroplsjødalen valley.
An evening calm descends upon the landscape. Quite quiet in the cabin, as there are not that many guests (despite being almost fully booked, but that is due to the limitations given by the pandemic). Bacalao for dinner (in my mind the best food you can get on the self-served cabins in Norway).
Reinheim cabin.
Tomorrow Snøhetta awaits and the end of the Saga trail. Weather forecast is not good, but I should not complain, as I cannot say I have been unlucky so far with the conditions. Things are good, it has been a ride so far. Highlight of today was definitely the musk ox.
Evening light at Reinheim.
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