Distance: 43.1km (43.1km).
So here I am, outside my own door, about to embark on a long journey. I will walk from my own door and probably in a few weeks I will be outside my own door after having walked back again. To start from and end where I live. There is something special and significant in it. There are no buses, trains or planes to get me to where the journey starts from, it starts from home and is undeniably beginning the moment I close the front door, look back and set off.
Akerselva river in the morning.
Oslo, approaching the line of buildings known as the Barcode.
I am going to do the Gudbrandsdalsleden, the pilgrimage route to Nidaros, well about 640km. Having previously done several pilgrimages on the Caminos in Spain, as well as a pilgrimage on Shikoku in Japan, but now in a time where one should not travel abroad, I have put upon me to check out what it is like to go on our own pilgrimage route. I am excited about how this trail will appear in comparison to the more famous Camino Frances and that is something I will get to learn more about in the coming weeks. To go on a pilgrimage in your own country.
At the official starting point of the Gudbrandsdalseden pilgrim path, in the ruins of the St. Hallvard cathedral in Oslo, 643km ahead of me.
First, however, I have to get to where the pilgrimage route begins from, in the ruins of the St. Hallvard's Cathedral in the Gamlebyen part of Oslo. A small walk in itself, from where I live at Sagene it is about six kilometers to walk. It is a quiet and calm walk down along the Akerselva river. People on their way to work, I on my way to Trondheim. I reckon they will arrive before me.
Towards the Gamle Aker church, the pilgrim path goes on what is know as Kjærlighetsstien (the Path of Love).
Inside the Gamle Aker church.
From Oslo, there are two routes, Vestleden and Østleden, who meet again in Lillehammer and continue together towards Trondheim from there as Gudbrandsdalsleden. The two routes are about the same length, where Vestleden by a narrow margin beats Østleden by 2km at its 227km. I have chosen Vestleden out of Oslo and Østleden on the return to Oslo. The routes split ways at Galgeberg. If I had the patience to stand here and wait, I could have seen myself come wandering down from the other route several days from now.
On the way through the city, here in the streets of St. Hanshaugen.
The Vigelands park and the Monolith.
Through Oslo, it is where the trail is laid that I find the most exciting and after a few hours I have walked through Tøyen, Grünerløkka, St. Hanshaugen and Majorstuen before I am in the Vigelandsparken park. The official waymark for the pilgrim route, which is a combination of the cross of St. Olav and the symbol of a landmark, has shown me the way past shops, quiet areas, busy streets, as well as a small path known as Kjærlighetsstien (translates to the Love Path) before the Gamle Aker church appears. Some of the streets and places I have not been to before, and I find myself doing some exploration of my own city.
Over the Hoffselva river the route goes on this small wooden bridge, in a breathing space among all the buildings.
Path meandering between apartment blocks.
From Frognerparken, the cityscape is slowly being replaced with the suburbs. You get a respite from houses and streets on the small stretch along the Lysakerelva river. The walk otherwise feels similar as through Oslo, only that the city buildings have been replaced with houses. Sometimes you wonder why the trail is laid exactly where it goes, other times it feels natural. When I see Oslo in the horizon while walking over Capralhaugen, I feel as if I have finally left Oslo, I am on my way, the city limit behind me.
Bridge over the Fåbrofossen waterfall at Lysaker.
At Haslum church, a medieval church from 1090, the pilgrim route sees itself satisfied with the city and the suburbs and the trail heads towards the hills and woods of Bærumsmarka. Time has passed and there are no one at the church to stamp my pilgrim pass, but there is a meeting in the church hall and I get someone to make a temporary stamp instead, one have to look at it pragmatically.
At Jar, the trail goes this way and that way, along the way it goes through this small passage which has aptly been named Pilegrimsstien (the Pilgrim's Path).
Everyone who chooses to walk Vestleden probably raises an eyebrow when they arrive at the beautiful Øverland bridge. Do all those who drive past on the road directly above know what a beautiful stone vault bridge from 1838 there is right next door? The original bridge site is from the Middle Ages.
Haslum church.
Beautiful Øverland bridge.
Øverland Farm is located directly above and they can offer their own arboretum, where you can find over 100 foreign species. It is a perfect place to have lunch, even if the time is legally late.
Øverland farm.
A reconstruction of a charcoal kiln in Bærumsmarka.
The pilgrim route ventures up into the Bærumsmarka. Just before you enter into the woods, you can take off to get to the pilgrim hostel at Gardlaus, but it is currently closed due to the pandemic. After long hours through the city and buildings, it is nice to finally feel the forest surrounding you. The trees also provide shade from the sun, the day is hot. Through the woods I pass by a large and good shelter (called a gapahuk here in Norway), a reconstruction of a wooden structure used to produce charcoal (charcoal kiln), but it is the Skriverberget hill that is the highlight of the journey through Bærumsmarka, also literally. Here the upper layer of the rocks is so weathered that you can engrave signs in it, this has been done since 1786 when someone found it apt to write ‘HMS’ on the stone.
The pilgrim route through Bærumsmarka on the way towards Skriverberget.
Apparently someone has carved the letters 'HMS' into the rock at Skriverberget in 1786.
After the Lommedalen valley, the woods of Krokskogen and the old road known as Den Gamle Bergenske Kongevegen are standing in front of the pilgrims. The day has already become long when I stand by the gate right by Øvre Jonsrud and look up the slopes waiting for me. At Løytnantsbakken (named after a daredevil of a lieutenant who rolled down the slope on top of a cannon, it went badly) the trail is supposed to take off into the forest, but there are no waymarks to see. The trail, on the other hand, is easy to find and with the setting sun it is a nice walk before I am back on the old road again.
The walk going past Bærum golf club.
Through Lommedalen valley.
The goal of the day was Amtsbrua, another beautiful stone vault bridge from the 19th century (1807 to be exact). I pitch my tent and manage to break a tent plug in the process, bummer. Tables and benches provide a great place to cook dinner and soon it bubbles from the stove. The silence descends over Krokskogen, at the end of the evening I crawl into my tent and wait for the Sandman to come.
At Løytnantsbakken, the route leaves Den Gamle Bergenske Kongevegen (The Old Bergen Royal Road), but there are no waymarks at the junction.
Den Gamle Bergenske Kongeveg (The Old Bergen Royal Road).
It has been a long first day on Vestleden and it is felt, over forty kilometers on the first day is perhaps excessive. Following the pilgrimage route through the city has been exciting and interesting, but hard on the feet with a lot of asphalt. I think the waymarks through the city were surprisingly good, but I must add that with several long-distance hikes behind me, I have probably become good at looking for where they can be found. When sleep takes me, I feel happy with the first day of my pilgrimage to Nidaros, but where are the other pilgrims?
The old Amtsbrua bridge.
Norderhov // day 2 >>
